CHRYSLER HEMI ENGINE TICKING NOISE CAUSES LAWSUIT

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NY Andrew

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Any idea how long these cases can drag on for and what a potential resolution may be? Any way to track the case?

Reads as if MDS is the issue so to me sounds like only solution is to remove MDS..problem is, MDS is most likely how FCA bends over for the government to make their vehicles efficient and abide by EPA regulations and such. Again, this is all my understanding. So if that’s the case, not like they’ll just remove this and risk government fines.

Guessing nothing will come of this..but interesting to share and curious everyone’s input.

https://www.carcomplaints.com/news/...edium=email&utm_campaign=20220516-ram-lawsuit
 

Wulf

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I am not sure of the personal repercussions of doing this, but if there are people who have disabled that system themselves, the manufacturer cannot be held responsible, or shouldn't be able to be, for what the owners of those vehicles do to them once they are "out in the world". So that is one possible way around the system.

As far as the case's progress. I don't know about as it is happening, but I have seen sites out there that will post the results of the case, usually in a PDF or something.
 
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NY Andrew

NY Andrew

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Gotcha. Would be cool to subscribe to email updates of said case.

And MDS can be disabled by manually shifting 8th gear with a few button presses. Not sure if that actually helps these circumstances, but that’s the only way besides maybe a mod or manually removing them that I know of. Wished they had OBD device to keep it off like they did for my Camaro but guess things are more complicated now.
 

Burla

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mds lubricates the 5.7 better then no mds, the mds is a nothing burger when it comes to hemi tick, as we know even non mds hemis tick. MDS sux ***, but hemi tick is something other then this. It isnt lifter quality either, or needle bearings which do fail but they fail due to back pressure on the lifters. The issue is back pressure in the lifter bore that can be fixed by adding EP additives and base oils in most cases, but the real fix should have came years ago. The same thing that saves flat tappet cams can help us, instead of AW additive zinc/zddp our issue is helped with EP additives and not so much AW additives as it is different then the tappet.

Flat Tappet needs zinc/phos
Hemi's need moly/sulfur

The two are very similar the difference is how much pressure is needed to make it work, zinc is too easily sacrificed for our needs, thus the need for "extreme pressure" EP additives. Maybe there is no 100% fix, maybe any engine can have a certain number of fails, but this would surely have lowered the numbers if it was wide spread and not just something ram forum did. At this point I seriously doubt anything will come from this.
 

Jeepwalker

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When I don't want MDS, I just manually shift into a top gear which kicks it out of Eco on mine. My Tradesman has buttons on an old-school (cool) column shift lever, which makes it real easy to do. It reverts back to 'normal' MDS once ya shut the vehicle off/restart. I leave Eco on for longer hwy drives, but turn off when speeds will be varying more. But Hemi-tick? What's the big deal. When the engine goes out, just plop another one in there.

Pretty soon it'll be a moot point, as oil prices are probably going to squash pickup truck sales, and esp V8's. Unless somehow things change dramatically and Russia makes amends with the energy world (could happen). The V8 days are probably coming to a close with electric trucks soon to arrive, and Chrysler's new I-6 coming out. Course, we've heard the "demise of the V8" story ..how many times in the past??? LOL o_O

 
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noupf

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mds lubricates the 5.7 better then no mds, the mds is a nothing burger when it comes to hemi tick, as we know even non mds hemis tick. MDS sux ***, but hemi tick is something other then this. It isnt lifter quality either, or needle bearings which do fail but they fail due to back pressure on the lifters. The issue is back pressure in the lifter bore that can be fixed by adding EP additives and base oils in most cases, but the real fix should have came years ago. The same thing that saves flat tappet cams can help us, instead of AW additive zinc/zddp our issue is helped with EP additives and not so much AW additives as it is different then the tappet.

Flat Tappet needs zinc/phos
Hemi's need moly/sulfur

The two are very similar the difference is how much pressure is needed to make it work, zinc is too easily sacrificed for our needs, thus the need for "extreme pressure" EP additives. Maybe there is no 100% fix, maybe any engine can have a certain number of fails, but this would surely have lowered the numbers if it was wide spread and not just something ram forum did. At this point I seriously doubt anything will come from this.
What are the additives that one can purchase over the counter to help with the potential issues? I've run pennzoil ultra platinum from day 1 bc I read early on that it had a good amount of moly in the oil. No idea if its true and would be curious to know if there are some after market additives that can be added to my oil and oil changes to help.
 
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NY Andrew

NY Andrew

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RedLine is your best defense against the issue as far as oil goes. I’ve personally stuck with 5W-20, but most have gone to 5W-30. As for additives, I haven’t researched or bothered..only 12k miles but so far so good..
 

Burla

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What are the additives that one can purchase over the counter to help with the potential issues? I've run pennzoil ultra platinum from day 1 bc I read early on that it had a good amount of moly in the oil. No idea if its true and would be curious to know if there are some after market additives that can be added to my oil and oil changes to help.
sadly I only know of one, poor man's redline we call it, similar science. Not only moly, but the correct moly that has no known side effects such as moly in suspension. Read this page.

Lubegard biotech should bump moly count in a 7 qrt sump 100-150ppm for 15 ounce size. Take that platinum that is 80ppm at bext, to around 220. The paper out there shows a benefit 200+ moly over 75ppm moly in a well run engine. One can only guess the benefit in a high wear engine prone to tick. SRT hemi specific oil made with feedback from fca engineers has high moly. With everything that happened on this board I do believe moly is as necessary as anything else in engine oil for our trucks.

Poll show 80% of ram forum members with hemi tick benefited from biotech. You can see reviews on amazon and similar as well.
 

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What is "SRT hemi specific oil"? Do you mean PUP? Thx
 

Burla

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pup 0w40

8248dd4830050ad67c98bbfc717025bb.jpg
 
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quickster2

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Thx that's what I understood as well. I use PUP in my truck at a 5K OCI and WIX XP filters. Since I need to reorder filters probably go with a RP this time around. I also used PUP in my GEN IV Viper when I had it. I was told PUP was better than Mobil 1 (additive package) which was the factory fill for the GEN IV. PUP was the factory fill for the GEN V Viper. For the track or extended spirited use most went to 15W50 Mobil 1.
 

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sadly I only know of one, poor man's redline we call it, similar science. Not only moly, but the correct moly that has no known side effects such as moly in suspension. Read this page.

Lubegard biotech should bump moly count in a 7 qrt sump 100-150ppm for 15 ounce size. Take that platinum that is 80ppm at bext, to around 220. The paper out there shows a benefit 200+ moly over 75ppm moly in a well run engine. One can only guess the benefit in a high wear engine prone to tick. SRT hemi specific oil made with feedback from fca engineers has high moly. With everything that happened on this board I do believe moly is as necessary as anything else in engine oil for our trucks.

Poll show 80% of ram forum members with hemi tick benefited from biotech. You can see reviews on amazon and similar as well.
Thanks dude !! Just spent the last hour + a work reading up on this Lubeguard stuff......and I got nothing done at work, lol. My 2015 Hemi is relatively quiet at 89,000 miles, but I plan to keep the truck for at least a couple more years, so I am just looking into some "insurance" for this motor, as I am well aware of some of the issues that plague it. I may just grab the 32 oz bottle on amazon and add 10 oz to my recent oil change and subsequent changes down the road.

Question. I did a UOA with black stone at about 78,000 miles and they said everything looked great. I forgot to send them my last oil change at 86,000. If i add this stuff to my oil, I assume I'll have to let them know when i send in the next sample? This stuff wont send a UOA out of whack or anything will it?
 

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Thanks dude !! Just spent the last hour + a work reading up on this Lubeguard stuff......and I got nothing done at work, lol. My 2015 Hemi is relatively quiet at 89,000 miles, but I plan to keep the truck for at least a couple more years, so I am just looking into some "insurance" for this motor, as I am well aware of some of the issues that plague it. I may just grab the 32 oz bottle on amazon and add 10 oz to my recent oil change and subsequent changes down the road.

Question. I did a UOA with black stone at about 78,000 miles and they said everything looked great. I forgot to send them my last oil change at 86,000. If i add this stuff to my oil, I assume I'll have to let them know when i send in the next sample? This stuff wont send a UOA out of whack or anything will it?
I would not mention it when you send it in and see what the oil analysis says.
 

Burla

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Thanks dude !! Just spent the last hour + a work reading up on this Lubeguard stuff......and I got nothing done at work, lol. My 2015 Hemi is relatively quiet at 89,000 miles, but I plan to keep the truck for at least a couple more years, so I am just looking into some "insurance" for this motor, as I am well aware of some of the issues that plague it. I may just grab the 32 oz bottle on amazon and add 10 oz to my recent oil change and subsequent changes down the road.

Question. I did a UOA with black stone at about 78,000 miles and they said everything looked great. I forgot to send them my last oil change at 86,000. If i add this stuff to my oil, I assume I'll have to let them know when i send in the next sample? This stuff wont send a UOA out of whack or anything will it?
I suggest don't tell the lab, this way you can see how the lab is on their game, they should detect it. It will boost a couple items on your uoa, all good, CA-Moly-Phos. This is a v i r g i n oil analysis of it... If you lab is good, you should see an increase in moly level plus 100+, so dont tell them:)

Aluminum / 0
Chromium / 0
Iron / 0
Copper / 0
Lead / 0
Tin / 0
Molybdenum / 1891
Nickel / 0
Manganese / 0
Silver / 0
Titanium / 0
Potassium / 0
Boron / 134
Silicon / 17
Sodium / 70
Calcium / 3183
Magnesium / 10
Phosphorus / 3472
Zinc / 9
Barium / 0


cSt Viscosity @ 100C / 6.64
Flashpoint in F / 430
TBN / 3.7
 

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Good idea gentlemen. Thanks
 

atc06jh

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All of this has gotten my attention. I changed my oil a few weeks ago and ever since then I have a bad tick at startup. I used to notice it a little bit, but ever since that last change it’s louder and longer and much more noticeable. I used Mobile1 5w-20 full synthetic with a Mobile1 filter. Have for years. I change my oil once a year since I maybe put 6k miles on it yearly. It’s a 2014 with right at 53k on it. I’m fearing I have a failed lifter or swim thing worse. I have the oil catch can and I’ve noticed some little shiny flakes at the bottom when I empty it the past few times. I’m wondering if I should go ahead and do another change and switch to redline and see if that helps. Any ideas guys?
 

EdGs

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When the engine is cold, reach in through the wheel wells and see if the heat shields over the exhaust manifolds are loose.

If they are, you have broken exhaust manifold bolts. A definite cause of startup 'tick' that subsides once the engine warms up. Has happened to many members here.

Redline is supposed to be very good in our hemi engines. I have not tried it yet, though.
 

atc06jh

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When the engine is cold, reach in through the wheel wells and see if the heat shields over the exhaust manifolds are loose.

If they are, you have broken exhaust manifold bolts. A definite cause of startup 'tick' that subsides once the engine warms up. Has happened to many members here.

Redline is supposed to be very good in our hemi engines. I have not tried it yet, though.
I checked that and it’s all tight. It lasts maybe 5 seconds or so which makes me think it’s internal and then the oil gets circulated and it’s fine. I may send some oil off for testing to see what they say and wait it out. Luckily I’m moving soon and my new neighbor is a retired NASCAR engine builder. So maybe he can help out if it’s something internal. I’m sure he has the knowledge and tools.
 

Burla

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All of this has gotten my attention. I changed my oil a few weeks ago and ever since then I have a bad tick at startup. I used to notice it a little bit, but ever since that last change it’s louder and longer and much more noticeable. I used Mobile1 5w-20 full synthetic with a Mobile1 filter. Have for years. I change my oil once a year since I maybe put 6k miles on it yearly. It’s a 2014 with right at 53k on it. I’m fearing I have a failed lifter or swim thing worse. I have the oil catch can and I’ve noticed some little shiny flakes at the bottom when I empty it the past few times. I’m wondering if I should go ahead and do another change and switch to redline and see if that helps. Any ideas guys?
I would, you are in the good zone for the switch to redline 5w30, pair it with a royal purple 20-820. Being in georgia if that is where the truck is, this is a great all year round choice. You might want to send a used oil analysis, see what those shavings are bearings or upper end stuff. Either way redline will give more protection. If you have had a mis fire code yet po300 range, you are still good as far as lifters and a cam.
 
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