another cam bites the dust - I think

[EdGs]

Did you say earlier that you replaced the plugs at 60k miles? If you now have 92k on it, and used OE plugs, you are due to replace them again, IMO.

Maybe even a connector issue since you swapped coil packs.

Would be awesome if that takes care of it.

 

[2012RAM1500RT]

Painting the original coils would of been far cheaper,lol. You'd be better off with new factory coils if you're running irridium plugs. The replacement OEM coils are the upgraded coils these days. Copper plugs are superior to irridium plugs for making power,you should know that,plus a whole lot cheaper.

You are right about the painting! As far as the plugs being cheaper, 3 sets of copper vs 1 set of irridium maybe not but the time it takes to change the plugs in these Hemi's I'll give up the little power I do. LOL

 

[Burla]

I had same issue on my 2012 Ram1500 134K miles. Always ran good oil with ProLong, had to replace cam for $7K

Prolong should be outlawed, it contains the most chlorine of any additives. Great lubrication for a while, until the corrosion sets in. Would you take chlorine and add it to your engine oil? If you use any of the additives below, the answer is yes. This is why guys here like lubegard biotech, it actually puts what fca puts in their hemi specific oil, just more of it. Note the parts per million, that is no joke prolong is freaking 30% chlorine.

Engine Treatment Product	Chlorine, ppm (%)
Dura Lube Engine Treatment Booster	55,000 (5.5)
Motorkote Hyper Lubricant/Engine Treatment	272,000 (27.2)
Motorkote MK Million Mile Formula	207,000 (20.7)
Prolong Engine Treatment	304,000 (30.4)

 

[Wild one]

You are right about the painting! As far as the plugs being cheaper, 3 sets of copper vs 1 set of irridium maybe not but the time it takes to change the plugs in these Hemi's I'll give up the little power I do. LOL

I've been changing the plugs in the truck on a yearly basis since 2015,so i have it down a bit,but i will admit swapping the plugs in the wifes car is alot easier,lol

 

[Ramagain]

The job isn't all that difficult. Pretty much a cook book repair. Looks daunting but is not outside the realm of a decent shade tree mechanic. Been a more than few years since I yanked mine but I don't think I had much more than 3 grand into mine with ported heads and a custom cam. If you have a second vehicle that makes it that much easier because you can take your time. I had mine torn down and ready to rebuild in one day, finished it up the second day. Shops will charge 5-9 grand plus more at a dealer. It all boils down to whether or not you think the value of the rest of the truck is worth it. If it's clean, and well cared for and you're the only owner, repair it.

Edit: Seems I missed you're most recent update. Save your money on the coils, only replace what's necessary. I also agree with the comment on the copper plugs.

 

[gnick]

so for what its worth

the truck is back to running rough and is now throwing a P1417 code. Stuck lifter.

i think its toast

 

[Burla]

so for what its worth

the truck is back to running rough and is now throwing a P1417 code. Stuck lifter.

i think its toast

wait bud.

No mis fire code? Keep reading obd2. If the cam or a lifter is toast, you will keep getting mis fire on the same cylinder, something else is happening here. Start keeping history of codes, so far mis fire 1, mis fire 7, and this new code, is that it? Now, just to be clear you are sure it was a 7 and not a 1 second time? That is the one number that can look alike 1 and 7.

 

[Burla]

If the mis fire traveled, I'm telling you this is some dooky shiet, not fatal. You can check oil control valve for metal, just for fun.

What I would do first, unhook battery overnight, replace cam position sensor maybe crank position sensor as well, if you just did cam first you may need crank later, if you are doing one at a time and dont feel like taking starter off. Or. you may opt just to unhook battery for a couple hours and just maybe that will reset your junk. You did a good job last time, keep that good spirit up, I have heard nothing that makes this fatal yet.

 

[gnick]

If the mis fire traveled, I'm telling you this is some dooky shiet, not fatal. You can check oil control valve for metal, just for fun.

What I would do first, unhook battery overnight, replace cam position sensor maybe crank position sensor as well, if you just did cam first you may need crank later, if you are doing one at a time and dont feel like taking starter off. Or. you may opt just to unhook battery for a couple hours and just maybe that will reset your junk. You did a good job last time, keep that good spirit up, I have heard nothing that makes this fatal yet.

here is the whole story

I woke up this morning. Started up fine, drove .5 miles and it threw a code and started running rough. Cylinder 7 misfire and P0307. Also, it kinda smelled like burning plastic.

I decided to swap the coil and plugs on cylinder 7 with new ones for the hell of it. I noticed that the coil on cylinder 7 had a crack and some melted plastic. Remember this coil came from cylinder 1 yesterday, and it definitely didn't have a crack and melted plastic on it. after swapping everything, it ran fine for 10 min, but then starts to run like garbage and make loud ticking noises. that's when i got the P1417. Obviously, there is more than just a coil and plug issue here.

I parked it for a couple hours and just went out to start it. Starts fine, then it gets rough, cylinder 7 misfire. see video here. not running well.

i just got a quote from a local auto lending place for 11k with the issues. Considering it.

 

[gnick]

wait bud.

No mis fire code? Keep reading obd2. If the cam or a lifter is toast, you will keep getting mis fire on the same cylinder, something else is happening here. Start keeping history of codes, so far mis fire 1, mis fire 7, and this new code, is that it? Now, just to be clear you are sure it was a 7 and not a 1 second time? That is the one number that can look alike 1 and 7.

it definitely went from 7 to 1 and back to 7. 100% sure. I've been tracking all this.

 

[Burla]

What is this truck worth to you if there was no issue? I would think a good hemi mechanic can find this and fix it way under a grand. how many miles on truck? So far it doesnt even sound like an internal problem and prior to this the engine is very smooth. it's your world, but I wouldnt give up on it just because of this. Sounds like maybe you have a short, it is possible tipm or pcm,, which would likely be the only things that would be over a grand. If you keep attempting fixes, get in the habit of unhooking battery for an hour and reset pcm.

 

[Burla]

So that video sounds like ticking valve maybe lifter, which doesnt mean much on a hemi. If it is a sticky valve then it would need to be fixed, maybe broken spring. But with the traveling mis fire, this could not be related. good luck with whatever you choose.

 

[jws123]

SO your second video I listened to 100% does sound like a lifter going out the roller on it is failing.

 

[Burla]

SO your second video I listened to 100% does sound like a lifter going out the roller on it is failing.

the code traveled, how can that be? not disagreeing at all, but something is going on, we need a hemi sherlock holmes.

 

[jws123]

the code traveled, how can that be? not disagreeing at all, but something is going on, we need a hemi sherlock holmes.

That is true something else is going on to however if you listen to the video now you hear the squeaking/ TAP TAP TAP. Sounds exactly like mine and a few others I have worked on when the needle bearings are falling out and roller is starting to breaking off of a lifter.

 

[2012RAM1500RT]

.

 

[gnick]

I believe minimum that a lifter is at the least collapsing. Having a good oil sample earlier with no metal in it if I read correctly I'd still have to search further before I spent 11 grand on it. I know it's frustrating but if it ran as great as you said it did and doesn't use oil or anything with those miles it would take a lot more proof before I'd give up and spend that kind of money. Just my opinion.

I think its starting to fail. its ticking and making a ton of noise now. it was running great a day ago, and didn't have metal in the oil 15,000 miles ago. I unplugged the battery and will see if anything change with that.

i was offered 11 grand as a trade in. Not to fix it.

 

[gnick]

That is true something else is going on to however if you listen to the video now you hear the squeaking/ TAP TAP TAP. Sounds exactly like mine and a few others I have worked on when the needle bearings are falling out and roller is starting to breaking off of a lifter.

i've got the battery unplugged. We'll see what it sounds like in a little bit. It was squeaking like crazy earlier when I was driving it though.

its strange though - everytime I pull the plugs and put a different coil on it runs fantastic, but then gets rough and worse and worse.

 

[2012RAM1500RT]

I think its starting to fail. its ticking and making a ton of noise now. it was running great a day ago, and didn't have metal in the oil 15,000 miles ago. I unplugged the battery and will see if anything change with that.

i was offered 11 grand as a trade in. Not to fix it.

Ok, I misunderstood.

 

[Burla]

Valves can sound just like lifters, especially when valve springs break, it is indeed the same cadence. Since the code traveled, it cant be a wiped cam lob. This may be a mystery we never will know, sounds like the OP has a path that suits him. Good luck with next truck, if I lost my hemi I'd look at a 90's Ford with a 351 and e4od and put a new engine trans with update the weaknesses, and call it a day. I refuse to buy new stuff, what a racket. no mds, no def, no vvt, no pre heated trans oil, yada yada broken record.