ZF8 - PPE Pan Install and D6 Changeout to Maxlife

Did you have success with your non-Mopar fluid in your ZF8 transmission?

  • Yes - my non-Mopar fluid is working just fine

    Votes: 16 59.3%
  • No - I changed it back to Mopar/Lifeguard

    Votes: 3 11.1%
  • No - I changed it to something else

    Votes: 2 7.4%
  • What did you change it "from" and "to"?

    Votes: 8 29.6%

  • Total voters
    27

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caulk04

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Yes, factory exhaust. Undid tranny mount and jacked tans up. Was able to create enough separation to finally squeeze it through. Hard to explain but its the black plastic piece inside the back of the trans thats in the way. Once you clear that the pan moves up into place...
I had no issue whatsoever getting my OE pan out or the PPE one in without and other work. It's close, but it fit with no hassle. No idea why yours was so difficult.
 

MRFREEZE57

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I had no issue whatsoever getting my OE pan out or the PPE one in without and other work. It's close, but it fit with no hassle. No idea why yours was so difficult.

same here, is tricky to remove the drainplug on the OEM pan but was no problem remobing, the PPE fit under the exhaust, is a bit close but plenty of clearance.
 

Daniel Ortiz

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I'm sure it'll drop a bit, but I've only driven maybe 40 miles so far. Without eliminating the thermostat like I've done I doubt you'd see any temp change.

I wish I took better records of my transmission temperatures before I swapped to the PPE pan. But I "feel" it used to run in the high 180s to low 190s *F, and now it's rock-steady at mid-180s *F at steady-state highway driving (we'll see how it does in the sand in about two weeks). So, maybe a little lower? Maybe?

Well this sucks. I have to drop my exhaust because the crossover is too close to the pan. I couldn't even get the stock one off after loosening the bolts. So far everything that could go wrong has. The PPE pan requires filing of every hole to get the inserts to fit. Just a little venting because at 3 hours in I still don't have the new pan even on yet.

I can see that. Since the exhaust could be at slightly different heights for any given truck due to the rubber hangers/isolators being tweaked just slightly differently at installation. Personally, my OE pan came right out, but I had to "force" the PPE pan in, just ever-so-slightly, past the solenoids. I can see you having even slightly less clearance than I. I can also see someone else having no problems at all. It should be possible to tweak those hangers to lower the exhaust just enough. I'd look into that so you don't have to jack up the transmission every time you want to drop the pan. Maybe someone else can comment on whether that's more of a PITA than your route.

Also, like @Wild one said, I too did not re-use the metal bolt sleeves with my PPE pan. Someone else mentioned it, but I also believe they were in the original plastic pan to prevent over-torqueing of the bolts, causing highly uneven compression of the gasket and possible leaks. That's possible because plastic flexes more, and the gasket requires relatively even pressure along its length for a good seal. The aluminum PPE pan, being alunimum, is much more rigid and flexes less between bolts. Even if you over-torque a bolt, the aluminum can take it and spread that compression more evenly along the length of the gasket than the plastic one could. So, in my opinion, the sleeves are not needed. Since I haven't had any leaks for over 8,000 miles so far, and @Wild one way longer, I'm inclined to think my theory is correct. Nevertheless, if PPE instructions say to re-use the sleeves, I'm betting that won't hurt anything, except the amount of work you put into it.
 

Midknight

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The only reason to reuse the sleeves on the PPE pan is for proper hole to bolt clearance. Without the sleeve the through hole is too large for the bolt diameter. It will work but the alignment is less accurate. Since friction is holding it in place and the gasket seats in a groove it will likely be ok.
 

Daniel Ortiz

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@DanielOrtiz I did try to get the truck to shift to 2nd gear by putting it in D and then revving. But ike others have said the truck shudders and then ESC kicks in. I tried it several times but did not get it to shift to 2nd.

@WildOne Any idea on how much fluid is in those clutch circuits? With the PPE pan holding the extra fluid I think we should be OK but not really sure.

I will probably drain the fluid in a couple weeks and refill just to get the Redline D6 out of the tranny that still remains. So I will try the method you note above.
@tfeni52355 after having a transmission temperature spike on my way down to Brownsville last weekend, I decided it was worth re-checking the fluid level, this time getting the 1-2 shift correct with tires rolling in the air and traction control off. I "think" I did it right. It's difficult to know if it's shifted into 2 or not, and at some point the engine would just rev higher and higher, even if I limited it to 2 using "+/-." When I opened up the fill bolt, fluid slowly leaked out, at about the rate of expansion I would guess. So, it looks like the 1-2 shift was unnecessary in my case, as it already had enough fluid.

Actually, considering all the factors I see left out of many videos and write-ups, like leveling the pan instead of the truck, or pre-driving it up to 167 F to get the transmission cooler to suck up the new fluid after a drain, or even leaving out the 1-2 shift (like I did initially), and everybody seems to have been successful, I wonder if the tolerance of fluid fill heights is actually fairly large for this transmission. Considering how much the fluid expands, even the temperature range of 86 to 122 F allows for a wide range of acceptable fill heights. It seems it can tolerate quite a large fudge factor, which is good and comforting to an OCD person like myself.
 
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Gero

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Looking forward to doing this soon. PPE pan and maxlife waiting for me in the garage. BTW, to get the ass 12" up, where are you guys jacking the axle from? The pumpkin?
 

Daniel Ortiz

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Looking forward to doing this soon. PPE pan and maxlife waiting for me in the garage. BTW, to get the ass 12" up, where are you guys jacking the axle from? The pumpkin?
@Gero , I jack each end of the rear axle up separately and stick a jack stand under, plus a bit of 2x6 under each jack stand, just inside my garage where the slab is flat. I park the front wheels on my driveway to take advantage of its downward slope to help get the transmission level. You could do it from the differential, a lot of people do without any problems it seems, but I don't like putting all that vehicle weight on the differential.
 

Gero

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@Gero , I jack each end of the rear axle up separately and stick a jack stand under, plus a bit of 2x6 under each jack stand, just inside my garage where the slab is flat. I park the front wheels on my driveway to take advantage of its downward slope to help get the transmission level. You could do it from the differential, a lot of people do without any problems it seems, but I don't like putting all that vehicle weight on the differential.

I prefer to do it you way as well but I would need another jack. I only have 1 big jack and the other dinky one is for Honda civics and what not. I'll put a hockey puck in between the jack and pumpkin just to be safe.
 

Frontbutz

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Had to jack mine up 10.5" to get the tranny level, used 6 ton set of stands, made in USA. Used the LifeGuard Fluid 8 from Carid website, had the best pricing and veteran discount. Drained 4qts when cold (not able to pull drain plug without a shaved 10mm right angle because of the exhaust pipe) and installed new Dorman filter, came with new bolts. Torqued T-40 bolts to 89" using the proper sequence. Initial engine off fill was 3 quarts, then started and filled another 2 qts, total of 5 qts. Did the green card procedure and in the temp range, pulled the fill plug and it was dripping out. Took for test drive and everything is working fine. I might check it again one day when I feel like it.

Ram Tranny fluid change2.jpg
Ram Tranny fluid change.jpg
 

miketx

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I plan to do this soon to my '16 Rebel. Will Maxlife void my warranty? I have a lifetime warranty. It shouldn't.....it's damn good fluid. I think it's the best out there. I've used it in 6 other vehicles, of different makes (including VW, Toyota, Ford), and all of them performed flawlessly with Maxlife.
 

joesstripclub

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I plan to do this soon to my '16 Rebel. Will Maxlife void my warranty? I have a lifetime warranty. It shouldn't.....it's damn good fluid. I think it's the best out there. I've used it in 6 other vehicles, of different makes (including VW, Toyota, Ford), and all of them performed flawlessly with Maxlife.
Using it will not void your warranty, but you could be denied coverage for a transmission issue since maxlife is not certified to meet the Mopar standard. It is listed as compatible and technically meets the specs, but they didnt pay for the testing to get it certified.
 

06 Dodge

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Using it will not void your warranty, but you could be denied coverage for a transmission issue since maxlife is not certified to meet the Mopar standard. It is listed as compatible and technically meets the specs, but they didnt pay for the testing to get it certified.
One way around it is to got buy fluid that meets Ram specs, photo copy receipt for proof, then return the Ram spec fluid then go buy what you want to put in it...
 

Wild one

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One way around it is to got buy fluid that meets Ram specs, photo copy receipt for proof, then return the Ram spec fluid then go buy what you want to put in it...
Won't work,as the ZF fluid is a differant oddball colour then the after market fluids,and they'll catch it as soon as they drop the pan for any warrenty work on the transmission. If you're worried about the warrenty,suck it up and buy the proper ZF 8/9 speed or dealer fluid
 

Gero

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I would risk using maxlife and having your transmission warranty denied. I will be using maxlife.
 

pacofortacos

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Lifetime service contract people said to me, "You are only required to do what it states in the owners manual"
Since owners manual states it is a lifetime fill, I am considering doing nothing as it would be harder for them to deny coverage vs. having anyone do service on it.
Tough call.
 

G-Ride990

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Lifetime service contract people said to me, "You are only required to do what it states in the owners manual"
Since owners manual states it is a lifetime fill, I am considering doing nothing as it would be harder for them to deny coverage vs. having anyone do service on it.
Tough call.
I am right there with you. At just over 50k now, do I swap the trans fluid and filter or leave it... If I am keeping the truck 100% I am doing the service, if not, I am leaving it.
 

pacofortacos

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I have the same year, same mileage. I am 100% keeping it with the lifetime coverage. LOL
The trans was one of the reasons that I bought the lifetime and that's why I called them.
If I do anything, it will be at 100k miles and probably have the dealer do it - just to be covered.

I tend to have the minimum done at the dealer just to cover my butt. For ex., I change the gear lube every 2 years but have the one done at the dealer at the required miles - just easier for documentation in the event of a failure.
Oil changes are done every 3-5k miles, one at home, one at dealer with my oil and filter.
I am not very good at keeping receipts :)
 

Wild one

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I am right there with you. At just over 50k now, do I swap the trans fluid and filter or leave it... If I am keeping the truck 100% I am doing the service, if not, I am leaving it.
If you do the service using factory fluid and pan,they're gonna have a hell'va time proving you serviced it,if you do have a warrenty claim.Just don't chew up the bolts.
 

EdGs

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If you do the service using factory fluid and pan,they're gonna have a hell'va time proving you serviced it,if you do have a warrenty claim.Just don't chew up the bolts.
I thought it was "lifetime" fluid. ;)

Should be good to go, right?
 
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