Thoughts on my new 2022 1500 Classic

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HunterCat

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Hi All. I just bought a 2022 1500 Classic that I ordered as a factory build. Thought I’d share my experience and thoughts about the truck. While I was waiting for my truck, I did a lot of reading on this forum so I wanted to add a little back.

First of all, some may be interested to know that I took delivery of my truck exactly 1 month and 1 day from the date of order. I was expecting to wait around 6 to 8 weeks but I was pleasantly surprised. The dealer was surprised as well. I did buy a somewhat base truck so that may have helped. It’s a Tradesman RCLB RWD V6. I was replacing a 2007 RAM 1500 RCLB RWD 4.7 that I had bought in 2015 as a second vehicle. I quickly fell in love with it and it became my DD. Unfortunately, its latest problem wasn’t easily remedied and I gave up on it. It had around 160K miles when I bought it and I gave it up at 220K. Besides the engine and alternator, everything in the truck had been replaced at one time or another. I have no idea how the truck was cared for prior so I can’t really fault RAM.

When it came time to find a replacement, my first preference would have been Toyota. However, the 2022 is a complete redesign with a newly introduced (for Tundra) 6 cyl twin turbo engine. I don’t buy the first 2 years of a new design and I don’t like turbos at all. So, Toyota was out. GM, Ford and Nissan were never in the running (had a really bad experience with a Silverado and I just don’t like Ford and Nissan). Also, I wanted a regular cab so RAM Classic it was.

Obviously, the RAM is brand new but I’m impressed thus far with the build quality and design. It’s a couple hundred pounds lighter than the old truck but it feels substantially heavier. I guess that’s good and bad. Good in that everything is much tighter and it feels like a tank but I really prefer the feel of the old truck. It felt much more nimble and maneuverable; the steering was MUCH lighter and the engine felt more responsive.

So far, the V6 seems adequate but that’s about it. The HEMI was just too much engine for me and I didn’t want the drama associated with it. I don’t tow but I do fill the bed to capacity on occasion. I do wish that they still offered a smaller V8 option between the two engines. Around town, the V6 is fine and the gas mileage is impressive so far. On the highway, the V6 shows it’s lack of power. As an example, cruising around 60 and getting up to 70 involves some drama. I’m accustomed to just giving a little gas and having the speed rise steadily in the same gear. In order to accomplish this with the V6, you need to really put your foot down to get anything to happen. I’m not sure how people in hilly terrain get along with this engine. Keep in mind also that my truck configuration is among the lightest.

I didn’t get 4WD because I have a second vehicle that has AWD that’s great in the snow. I’m in central NJ so snow is not a major concern and the worst this truck will ever see is the occasional dirt/gravel road. I did get the LSD so I’ll see how that works out. I think the old truck had LSD and I would shovel a bunch of snow over the rear wheels and it did fine for my area.

So far, my only minor gripe is the clock or lack thereof. How does a work truck not have a dedicated clock? In order for the time to appear on the screen, the radio has to be on. No radio, no screen. I typically don’t drive with the radio on. So, for me to get a clock in the cab, I have to mute the radio and make a screen selection. When I restart the truck, it does not save this preference. The volume on the radio is restored and it defaults to the radio page. I have to hit the mute button and select a different screen on every startup. Very annoying.

Last random thought about Active Grill Shutters: I wasn’t sure if my truck was going to come equipped with them but it did. I was sure, based on what I’ve read here, that I would remove most of the slats. I’m going to leave them for now and keep an eye on the temps. I’m wondering if they changed the operation of the shutters. Mine close and open once on startup to test and then remain open during warmup. This morning, it was in the high 50’s and they remained open. Perhaps it’s not cold enough out yet. So far, I noticed that the coolant temp stays between 199-203F while on the road which seems fine. When idling or backing down my driveway it will climb past that but I doubt removing the shutters will help in that limited scenario. I think the highest I’ve seen is 213F.
 

star_deceiver

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How we get around in the mountains? Simple, push the go pedal down. If you want things to happen quickly you need to push the gas down far enough to get the transmission to downshift into 3rd with at least 4000rpm. You will not hurt this thing with rpm, but watch your coolant/oil temps if you hold 5000+ for a long period of time.
1EB360B9-E37D-46CB-955F-03550C0B0DAF.jpeg
 

farout75

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Hi All. I just bought a 2022 1500 Classic that I ordered as a factory build. Thought I’d share my experience and thoughts about the truck. While I was waiting for my truck, I did a lot of reading on this forum so I wanted to add a little back.

First of all, some may be interested to know that I took delivery of my truck exactly 1 month and 1 day from the date of order. I was expecting to wait around 6 to 8 weeks but I was pleasantly surprised. The dealer was surprised as well. I did buy a somewhat base truck so that may have helped. It’s a Tradesman RCLB RWD V6. I was replacing a 2007 RAM 1500 RCLB RWD 4.7 that I had bought in 2015 as a second vehicle. I quickly fell in love with it and it became my DD. Unfortunately, its latest problem wasn’t easily remedied and I gave up on it. It had around 160K miles when I bought it and I gave it up at 220K. Besides the engine and alternator, everything in the truck had been replaced at one time or another. I have no idea how the truck was cared for prior so I can’t really fault RAM.

When it came time to find a replacement, my first preference would have been Toyota. However, the 2022 is a complete redesign with a newly introduced (for Tundra) 6 cyl twin turbo engine. I don’t buy the first 2 years of a new design and I don’t like turbos at all. So, Toyota was out. GM, Ford and Nissan were never in the running (had a really bad experience with a Silverado and I just don’t like Ford and Nissan). Also, I wanted a regular cab so RAM Classic it was.

Obviously, the RAM is brand new but I’m impressed thus far with the build quality and design. It’s a couple hundred pounds lighter than the old truck but it feels substantially heavier. I guess that’s good and bad. Good in that everything is much tighter and it feels like a tank but I really prefer the feel of the old truck. It felt much more nimble and maneuverable; the steering was MUCH lighter and the engine felt more responsive.

So far, the V6 seems adequate but that’s about it. The HEMI was just too much engine for me and I didn’t want the drama associated with it. I don’t tow but I do fill the bed to capacity on occasion. I do wish that they still offered a smaller V8 option between the two engines. Around town, the V6 is fine and the gas mileage is impressive so far. On the highway, the V6 shows it’s lack of power. As an example, cruising around 60 and getting up to 70 involves some drama. I’m accustomed to just giving a little gas and having the speed rise steadily in the same gear. In order to accomplish this with the V6, you need to really put your foot down to get anything to happen. I’m not sure how people in hilly terrain get along with this engine. Keep in mind also that my truck configuration is among the lightest.

I didn’t get 4WD because I have a second vehicle that has AWD that’s great in the snow. I’m in central NJ so snow is not a major concern and the worst this truck will ever see is the occasional dirt/gravel road. I did get the LSD so I’ll see how that works out. I think the old truck had LSD and I would shovel a bunch of snow over the rear wheels and it did fine for my area.

So far, my only minor gripe is the clock or lack thereof. How does a work truck not have a dedicated clock? In order for the time to appear on the screen, the radio has to be on. No radio, no screen. I typically don’t drive with the radio on. So, for me to get a clock in the cab, I have to mute the radio and make a screen selection. When I restart the truck, it does not save this preference. The volume on the radio is restored and it defaults to the radio page. I have to hit the mute button and select a different screen on every startup. Very annoying.

Last random thought about Active Grill Shutters: I wasn’t sure if my truck was going to come equipped with them but it did. I was sure, based on what I’ve read here, that I would remove most of the slats. I’m going to leave them for now and keep an eye on the temps. I’m wondering if they changed the operation of the shutters. Mine close and open once on startup to test and then remain open during warmup. This morning, it was in the high 50’s and they remained open. Perhaps it’s not cold enough out yet. So far, I noticed that the coolant temp stays between 199-203F while on the road which seems fine. When idling or backing down my driveway it will climb past that but I doubt removing the shutters will help in that limited scenario. I think the highest I’ve seen is 213F.
DO NOT REMOVER THE SHUTTERS! This will void your factory warranty. I've had two RAM 3.6 trucks. The mpg was pretty good, but my huge issue was lack of torque. It was pretty quick, but going up steeper freeway hills in Missouri I had to change the gear selector to 6th to keep up with traffic. After having the 5.7 now I doubt I would ever aging select the 3.6. Be aware the 3.6 is not without it's potential issues as well. Oil changes are a critical issue and changing at no more that 6,000 mile is a wise choice. Clad you like and enjoy your RAM!
 

CamperMike

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DO NOT REMOVER THE SHUTTERS! This will void your factory warranty. I've had two RAM 3.6 trucks. The mpg was pretty good, but my huge issue was lack of torque. It was pretty quick, but going up steeper freeway hills in Missouri I had to change the gear selector to 6th to keep up with traffic. After having the 5.7 now I doubt I would ever aging select the 3.6. Be aware the 3.6 is not without it's potential issues as well. Oil changes are a critical issue and changing at no more that 6,000 mile is a wise choice. Clad you like and enjoy your RAM!
I would not be so sure you need constant oil changes. My previous vehicle was a town and country with the 3.6. I towed a popup camper weighing nearly 3000lbs with it often. I followed the dummy light which meant around 8k oci. The engine ran perfect and used no oil when I sold it with 150k miles.
 

Jeepwalker

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Nice write-up and review. Thanks! Always love to hear the reasoning why someone ended up with their vehicle over another one. Only thing is ...you forgot a picture of this nice machine!

I haven't driven a 3.6 so I can't say. Are you able to easily kick it out of 8th gear and gain some acceleration torque that way? One thing I would recommend is get it rust-proofed (undercoated...or whatever you call it out there). These 4th gens DO rust. And they look terrible when they do. The rear wheelwells DO collect and hold rocks/dirt/debris. That's the genesis of the rusting. The time to do that is right away. Esp since you tend to hold on to your trucks for a while. Not that expensive if you do it right away. And the inside of the rockers and cab corners too. Front Fenders and tailgate. My neighbor's 4th gen has been rusting away before my eyes. All the places I just listed.

Oh, on the clock, just type in car/truck clock in ebay or Amazon, and there are a lot of choices. And if you want an LED 12V one, ..just type that in. A good 12V LED clock tied into your ignition, you won't have to change batteries.
 
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HunterCat

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How we get around in the mountains? Simple, push the go pedal down. If you want things to happen quickly you need to push the gas down far enough to get the transmission to downshift into 3rd with at least 4000rpm. You will not hurt this thing with rpm, but watch your coolant/oil temps if you hold 5000+ for a long period of time.

I think you touched on part of my problem; I have an aversion to high RPMs from years of owning vehicles that didn't require it (plus I'm very light on the pedal). It's probably outdated thinking but when the needle starts getting up there, I cringe. A V6 with an 8 speed is naturally going to spin so I just have to get accustomed to how this truck operates.
 
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HunterCat

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DO NOT REMOVER THE SHUTTERS! This will void your factory warranty. I've had two RAM 3.6 trucks. The mpg was pretty good, but my huge issue was lack of torque. It was pretty quick, but going up steeper freeway hills in Missouri I had to change the gear selector to 6th to keep up with traffic. After having the 5.7 now I doubt I would ever aging select the 3.6. Be aware the 3.6 is not without it's potential issues as well. Oil changes are a critical issue and changing at no more that 6,000 mile is a wise choice. Clad you like and enjoy your RAM!

I'm happy with the temps thus far so the shutters are staying put. As I mentioned, the temps are mainly staying between 199F and 203F which I think is fine.

I'm pleased with the MPG thus far and it should only get better since I'm just at 500 miles. Last couple of days, I did a bunch of highway mixed with some in town driving and the computer is telling me 24.1mpg.
 
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HunterCat

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Nice write-up and review. Thanks! Always love to hear the reasoning why someone ended up with their vehicle over another one. Only thing is ...you forgot a picture of this nice machine!

I haven't driven a 3.6 so I can't say. Are you able to easily kick it out of 8th gear and gain some acceleration torque that way? One thing I would recommend is get it rust-proofed (undercoated...or whatever you call it out there). These 4th gens DO rust. And they look terrible when they do. The rear wheelwells DO collect and hold rocks/dirt/debris. That's the genesis of the rusting. The time to do that is right away. Esp since you tend to hold on to your trucks for a while. Not that expensive if you do it right away. And the inside of the rockers and cab corners too. Front Fenders and tailgate. My neighbor's 4th gen has been rusting away before my eyes. All the places I just listed.

Oh, on the clock, just type in car/truck clock in ebay or Amazon, and there are a lot of choices. And if you want an LED 12V one, ..just type that in. A good 12V LED clock tied into your ignition, you won't have to change batteries.

I forgot to post pics! Don't have much yet but here's one sans badging (could they make the badging any bigger? :) ). And another with the old girl in the forefront (I miss that truck even with a brand new one in the driveway).
IMG_20220910_105515664_HDR.jpgInkedIMG_20220913_151334498_HDR.jpg

Funny you should mention rustproofing. Just had it undercoated with FluidFilm @ 400miles. My old girl was in pretty good shape but was starting to develop rust in the rear wheel wells and light rusting underneath. Seems like every older RAM in my area has it. I plan on using FluidFilm every fall to eliminate the issue.
 

Oliver Closehauf

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So what are the shutters supposed to do exactly? Are they there for aerodynamics or cooling?
 

Jeepwalker

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Truck looks good!
Regular fluid film in the rears is probably not a bad idea. Eventually dirt/dust/rocks will fill in around the wheel wells in the image below (red area) where it's spot welded to the bed side. An agent that get in there and also helps prevent rust, should help extend things. It would be helpfull if they made it drain better, but then guys wouldn't need to buy new trucks as quick!!! Here's what the inner wheel well looks like.

Inner Wheel Arch.png
 

turkeybird56

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I forgot to post pics! Don't have much yet but here's one sans badging (could they make the badging any bigger? :) ). And another with the old girl in the forefront (I miss that truck even with a brand new one in the driveway).
View attachment 503252View attachment 503254

Funny you should mention rustproofing. Just had it undercoated with FluidFilm @ 400miles. My old girl was in pretty good shape but was starting to develop rust in the rear wheel wells and light rusting underneath. Seems like every older RAM in my area has it. I plan on using FluidFilm every fall to eliminate the issue.
YUP, getting coated with Fluid Film or Krown help for sure, not a problem here, but if I was back in NJ would have ordered from factory done or had done if vehicle on lot and not protected.
 
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Rayzaa

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Congrats on the new truck.

Me personally, would never buy a full size truck with a V6 but thats me.

As for Toyota ( i used to work at a Toyota dealer for about a year once) ......if they (Toyota from Japan) designed the engine, id have no issues buying a new redigned engine from them. Every engine they have had have been great and last forever. Ive had a 4 banger 20R engine and a 22R going way back and they were solid. V6's are solid.

Tundras are good trucks but i liked my Ram better after test driving one.....so i kept it.
 
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Yardbird

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Congrats on the new truck.

Me personally, would never buy a full size truck with a V6 but thats me.

Years ago, I thought that too, until I bought an '87 F150 4x4, with a 300-6, 30 years ago, that I still have. It did all I wanted, and more, including hauling over 2000 lbs multiple times.

The Ford has more low end grunt by a long shot than the 3.6, but above 2500 rpm the 3.6 starts taking off. Difference between cam in block and overhead cam.

I live at the foot of the NC mountains, and have had the 3.6 Ram in the steep parts of the mountains several times since I've had it. I can say I've been very satisfied with the performance. I go to manual mode, and pick my gear and rpm. Actually, it's faster than the 300 on the steep hills.

That, and 20-22 MPG while doing it makes me happy.

I used to be a loud muffler, big, fast engines, to heck with the gas mileage guy, but age took that out of me. Now if I want to pull heavy and need power, I use the '94 Ram 2500 with the 8.0 V10 I have. It has more than enough power for any pulling I will ever do.

Even with the 3.21 rear in my truck, I would recommend it for anyone using their truck for what most trucks are used for these days.

One thing, about the 3.21 and 20" tires, 8th gear is basically useless in everyday driving. I just go to manual and lock out 8th. 7th with the 3.21 is geared almost exactly the same as 8th with a 3.55.
 

drclassic

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Years ago, I thought that too, until I bought an '87 F150 4x4, with a 300-6, 30 years ago, that I still have. It did all I wanted, and more, including hauling over 2000 lbs multiple times.

The Ford has more low end grunt by a long shot than the 3.6, but above 2500 rpm the 3.6 starts taking off. Difference between cam in block and overhead cam.

I live at the foot of the NC mountains, and have had the 3.6 Ram in the steep parts of the mountains several times since I've had it. I can say I've been very satisfied with the performance. I go to manual mode, and pick my gear and rpm. Actually, it's faster than the 300 on the steep hills.

That, and 20-22 MPG while doing it makes me happy.

I used to be a loud muffler, big, fast engines, to heck with the gas mileage guy, but age took that out of me. Now if I want to pull heavy and need power, I use the '94 Ram 2500 with the 8.0 V10 I have. It has more than enough power for any pulling I will ever do.

Even with the 3.21 rear in my truck, I would recommend it for anyone using their truck for what most trucks are used for these days.

One thing, about the 3.21 and 20" tires, 8th gear is basically useless in everyday driving. I just go to manual and lock out 8th. 7th with the 3.21 is geared almost exactly the same as 8th with a 3.55.
I like the simplicity of the 1500 Classic with V6. No etorque. No MDS. Just a basic truck with a 300 HP engine that has been around for a long time. I'm wagering this results in more problem free years of utility and enjoyment.
 
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HunterCat

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I like the simplicity of the 1500 Classic with V6. No etorque. No MDS. Just a basic truck with a 300 HP engine that has been around for a long time. I'm wagering this results in more problem free years of utility and enjoyment.
My thinking as well. Etorque/MDS/Auto-Start/Stop that can't be deactivated would have definitely been deal breakers. I also don't want any of the latest nanny electronics like Emergency Stop, Lane Assist/Departure etc. I maintain my vehicles and keep them for as long as they'll last. I don't need the impending headaches along with the obscene cost to fix electrical/software based components that will surely fail.

Reliability/Simplicity is most important to me which is why I decided on the V6. I realize my thinking goes against the current trends. Very soon, it's going to be impossible to find a vehicle that meets my needs.
 

jimboschnitz

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Just a quick note on the clock issue. Instead of muting your radio, just turn the volume down. When you
restart your truck it will be the same as when you shut it down.
 

PoMansRam

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@HunterCat That's a great looking truck! I don't think I've ever seen more than one or two 4th gen RCLB's in the wild.

I like the color, the steel wheels, black bumpers, etc.

I owned a 2017 Ram 1500 w/ pentastar and loved it. Mine was a QC, 4x4 w/ 3.21 gears. Mine didn't go into or hold 8th gear unless it was a long steady grade and steady on the go-pedal for a fairly long period of time.

I've had my hemi for a few years now, but would have no problem going back to a pentastar powered Ram.
 

Dan Topp

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I have a neighbor who uses his truck as mainly transportation,so I get why you wanted a v6,I occasionally use mine for towing and hauling so I didn’t want the v6 since the Silverado I had was so underpowered it was dangerous. I don’t brag about how light the rams construction is after one light hail storm cost Allstate 7k. Good luck I know any questions about your truck will be no problem here
 

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