Towing center of gravity

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Oliver Closehauf

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I'm thinking about getting a car hauler. Trying to decide on the length. Where do you want your trailer's center of gravity when towing? I would think you would want it over the trailer's axles or a little forward, but I notice that a 20 foot trailer's wheels are way back there, so if I was hauling a pickup, I'd either need to put it on the trailer backwards, or have it way to the back of the trailer. That doesn't seem right. Is there some standard?
 

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As with any trailer it your responsibility to load the trailer properly, having the load properly distributed to have the correct amount of weight on the axles and tongue. A bulk of the weight does need to be over the trailer axles.
Some gooseneck/fiver trailers axle capacity is actually less that than total capacity of the trailer as difference (usually 20%) is intended to be carried by the tow vehicle.
 

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Rule of thumb for a ball hitch trailer is 9-15% tongue weight. so a loaded trailer at 7k lbs should have tongue weight about 600 min -1000 max pounds. Checkto see what your truck is rated at.
 
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Oliver Closehauf

Oliver Closehauf

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I've got a 2500 with a Cummins.

How would you tell how much weight is on the tongue? I'm looking at this, or something like it.

 

crash68

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How would you tell how much weight is on the tongue?
You weigh the loaded truck and trailer on a CAT scale, then drop the trailer and weigh just the truck.
With the axle weight numbers you can calculate the trailer total weight, trailer tongue weight percentage and tow vehicle axle loading.

Truck axles total with trailer minus the truck axle total without trailer is the tongue weight.
Tongue weight plus trailer axle weight is trailer total weight. Trailer total weight divided by the tongue weight l is the tongue percentage.
 

18CrewDually

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Pulling any front engine car on that trailer forward will give you enough tongue weight. If it appears to be too much and the track is squatting below level then I'd roll the load back until the truck and trailer are leveled out. Then if you were concerned you could always go to a CAT scale and check your axle weights. You'll then also need just the truck by itself (with you in it) axle weights to see how much weight is increased on the rear axle of the truck when hooked up to the trailer.
 
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Oliver Closehauf

Oliver Closehauf

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Guess what I'm trying to figure out is if I know where the center of gravity is on the load, and I know where the center of gravity is on the trailer, where should I put the load's center of gravity so the trailer is properly loaded, but the load at the ball isn't over or under loaded. I don't want the truck doing a carolina squat going down the road, and don't want the load picking up the back end of the truck.
 
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Oliver Closehauf

Oliver Closehauf

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So what you guys are saying is I need to use a scale. There's no handy "formula".
 

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I can judge but I tow alot. But I still scale once in a while. Doesn't seem like you want to weigh it and clearly don't have the experience yet so this may be more up your alley. It will definitely get you in the safe ballpark.
 

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I'm also looking to get a car hauler so I've been doing a lot of research. The one you linked to is a bare bones trailer. A few reasons why I would stay away from that:
Brakes on only one axle. Moving is good, stopping is critical.
Side storing ramps are a pain in the ass.
7k capacity. A 10k trailer will give you much more leeway for not much more $.
 
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Oliver Closehauf

Oliver Closehauf

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@Downzero I agree with all of your points, But what I was looking for was something I could use to go get a unicorn at a moment's notice, not something I would be using as part of full time towing hobby or job. I'm a city mouse with home office job and would need to keep whatever I get out at my sister's place.

That 20 footer was a bad reference. It's too long, I'd probably go with a 16. Rear slide out ramps if I can find it. Noted on the brakes, will look for that. Any other suggestions send them on over.

I tried to find something I could rent but couldn't find anything on such short notice on a weekend.

@18CrewDually Thanks for that link!
 

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I've got a 2500 with a Cummins.

How would you tell how much weight is on the tongue? I'm looking at this, or something like it.

WELL U got plenty of truck. I looked at pics, did not see a "battery" case with breakaway wire which engages electric brakes if something bad happens like your trailer disengages from the truck, so you do not do a Trailer passing you gig. Could not see in pic. Is there a breakaway battery setup on the trailer to engage the brakes if something happens? Possible pictures did not show. ALSO, personally wonder ref brakes only on one axle also.

ADDED: I know, trailers ref brakes run off a brake controller from a tow vehicle. Got that, I just may be confused, but if you lose trailer, what powers brakes then, hmmmmm, if you get a break away and safety pulled with trailer battery, at least brakes engage. I just may be a confused BOIRD, happens, lmao.

OP: Wat eva U get, remember, when U tow, always engage ball correctly and lock it down, just not drop it down and not engage lock even if just moving a small ways. DO not do the lazy thing and just drop it down on the ball to move a small distance and think gravity and weight be your friend, cause neither are. DO NOT ASK me how I know, LOL.

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ramffml

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I'm thinking about getting a car hauler. Trying to decide on the length. Where do you want your trailer's center of gravity when towing? I would think you would want it over the trailer's axles or a little forward, but I notice that a 20 foot trailer's wheels are way back there, so if I was hauling a pickup, I'd either need to put it on the trailer backwards, or have it way to the back of the trailer. That doesn't seem right. Is there some standard?

Without any measurements to go off of, my guess is yes you would probably want to back the truck up as close to the front of the trailer as possible. Keep the engine over the trailer wheels, and the rear of the truck adds some nice weight for towing stability.

The bigger/heavier duty your tow vehicle is, the less you need to worry about weight on its rear axle.

Many guys just hook up and go, they don't know or care or are within bounds or towing short distances etc.
 
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Oliver Closehauf

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I've towed before with tow dolleys, but they were e21 BMW's, using my old Dodge Caravan (That was great minivan-the ones that looked like Huey's). So not a complete noob, but have not towed a camper or a car hauler with a full size truck on it.

I've got one of the weigh-safe like new factory seconds in the shopping cart. Just deciding if I really want to pull the trigger now or wait until I find a trailer. I usually do everything bass ackwards.

Just to add, my truck is(was) set up with a 5th wheel ball, and some kind of after market trailer connection package. I have no paperwork on it (yet) but the PO had a camper and did landscaping on the side and towed his mowers with it using the rear hitch. So the truck is more ready than I am. The fifth wheel is junk though and I'm getting rid of the whole thing this winter when I pull the bed off.
 
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Zoe Saldana

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@Downzero I agree with all of your points, But what I was looking for was something I could use to go get a unicorn at a moment's notice, not something I would be using as part of full time towing hobby or job. I'm a city mouse with home office job and would need to keep whatever I get out at my sister's place.

That 20 footer was a bad reference. It's too long, I'd probably go with a 16. Rear slide out ramps if I can find it. Noted on the brakes, will look for that. Any other suggestions send them on over.

I tried to find something I could rent but couldn't find anything on such short notice on a weekend.

@18CrewDually Thanks for that link!
Search for things like this.

 

crash68

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Zoe Saldana

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Going with a weight safe hitch would be easier to use when loading a vehicle and adjusting the tongue weight

If you trust that little thing will hold true over many time; do it.

I doubt it will last considering the constant movement of the mechanism.
 

TomB 1269

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There is a rough calculation you can make.
1. payload capacity of your truck (on door) minus the people, stuff, add-ons, anything in the bed = Payload Remaining for trailer tongue weight
2. get the trailers dry weigh and its dry tongue weight, divide tongue by trailer = percentage of trailer weight transferred to the truck.
example: trailer dry 5000lbs trailer dry tongue weight 600lbs 600/5000 = .12 or 12%
3. add the weight of the car to trailers dry weight and multiple by percentage
example: trailer 5000lbs + car 4200lbs = 9000lbs of which 12% or (9000 x .12) = 1080lbs of tongue weight is what the truck will need to have available to tow it.

So your 2500 w/Cummins most likely has a payload of 2200 - 2500lbs (2500 w/diesels loose a lot of payload due to engine weight). Gear, people, etc. in truck 600lbs + trailer tongue of 1100lbs = 1700lbs leaving you 500 to 700 lbs of payload.

PS, the car on board may increase the percentage based on exact positioning with respect to trailer axles and the cars weight balance from front to rear.
-Note you can weigh car on scale tor determine cars axle weights, i.e. percentage of weight on front axle vs rear axle (unless a well balanced sports car it will be like 60/40 front to rear or more.

Do not load in backwards this will result in an unbalanced trailer and will increase the probability of trailer sway at speed. At a minimum it will make the trailer more susceptible to side wind loading and result in sway they could be come uncontrolable

You will also be high enough in trailer tongue weight to need weight distribution hitch as well.
 
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