Blackstone oil report is in.

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dragrazor

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So my report is in. Blackstone says that things are looking good but hopefully the guru’s in here have some information that can further my quest for anti-tick. Fyi, i put 5w-30 Pennzoil Ultra Platinum with 20 ounces of lubegard this time around.32B9FEAB-4D1B-48AD-ADB2-0BA9F1706D53.jpeg
 
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HEMIMANN

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Sure looks like an excellent report to me. I would personally change @ 5,000 miles as good as this looks, with lots of TBN in reserve. I don't go longer than that, due to contaminants in the oil and their potential to restrict small hydraulic orifices (MDS, VVT, etc.) and restrict the already marginal oil flow.

Moly level is still up there above 200 ppm, seems adequate, I see you add more anyway, backup.

My sole concern would be where you drive it, in what temperature and load conditions. Perhaps you already discussed? For me, 5W-20 is plain oil grocery-getter use in moderate climates with no or light towing.
 

Burla

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Just young engine stuff man, it will get much better as you go. Young engine uoa's are throwaways. If you ever drive more often, that tbn suggests you can go much farther as stated.
 

Burla

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Do you have hemi tick? That iron level doesnt suggest it is an issue with your internals. Are you sure it is lifter tick and not exhaust tick? if you can post as much info as you can we might be able to help. Do you have the ability to post a youtube of the tick? If you do, put recording device under both sides of the engine for a minute a piece at least.

What filter do you have? size and brand... did the new oil change change anything at all with the tick?
 
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dragrazor

dragrazor

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No hemi tick. Just trying my best early to avoid it so i read up here and follow what you guys suggest. I live in south florida. I will be towing a 4k-5k loaded travel trailer in the future but not now. Filter is what you suggested which is a fram x2. @Burla
 

HEMIMANN

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No hemi tick. Just trying my best early to avoid it so i read up here and follow what you guys suggest. I live in south florida. I will be towing a 4k-5k loaded travel trailer in the future but not now. Filter is what you suggested which is a fram x2. @Burla

Stay with 5W-30 year round.
 

Burla

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I kind of like keeping the cure out of the sump until and if you get hemi tick. That way you have a move if it ever did come. Imagine if you had the best known tick killer in the sump and then got hemi tick, then what? I say what you are doing now is fine and a top choice on the board oil and filter. Mind you most hemi's don't have hemi tick, just some of us guys who got it ruined it for everyone else by spreading fear about it. That part of this deal sucks, but most of us were just trying to figure out what to do especially because dealers say that is normal. The good news is we have some good cures if it comes, but I seriously wouldnt worry about it. I might be inclined to not do uoa's for a while either, young engines uoa's are just disappointing. Maybe around 40-50k miles do another, of course unless some issues comes up. Your report is clean, the wear metals will wash out like the lab said, you have no other issue. Enjoy the truck! I bet it will serve you well.

Just in case someday you get hemi tick and I'm long gone, the best known cure at this time is 5w30 redline and a rp 20-820 filter. Some promising theories would be 0w30 hpl super car untested and amsoil 0w40 tested and was a tick killer in a 5.7. You don't add lubegard to redline, or 0w30 hpl, but you can add it to 0w40 amsoil if you felt so motivated. But mind you, just for info only I post that.
 

ramffml

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I kind of like keeping the cure out of the sump until and if you get hemi tick. That way you have a move if it ever did come. Imagine if you had the best known tick killer in the sump and then got hemi tick, then what?

I've never understood this argument of yours :) . Not saying you're wrong, but if RL helps with tick it seems to me more logical to run it as soon as you can. If you get tick even with RL, well there is nothing more we could have done. If you get tick before running RL, you're always going to wonder if you should have run RL right away.

We're also not sure if RL fixes every tick, so personally I'm not waiting around for tick to show up just to see if RL can fix it.
 

Burla

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I've never understood this argument of yours :) . Not saying you're wrong, but if RL helps with tick it seems to me more logical to run it as soon as you can. If you get tick even with RL, well there is nothing more we could have done. If you get tick before running RL, you're always going to wonder if you should have run RL right away.

We're also not sure if RL fixes every tick, so personally I'm not waiting around for tick to show up just to see if RL can fix it.
speaking from the guy who just said he was going away from redline? lol cmon man

wasnt this yesterday?

Actually that's just another reason why I'll be sticking with HPL in the future. He's very active on BITOG, loves to chime in with (obviously) expert data and opinions, and not afraid to try something like this. He's also not afraid to credit other brands that have great oil (mobil 1 fs 0w-40).

I'll probably stick to the PP or Euro flavour, but these guys are classy and top notch in every way. This lastest oil is just another proof of that.

I never had hemi tick so I'm not worried about switching loyalty from RL. I'm sure both oils are top notch, but I love it when companies are involved "head first" with their customer base.

Another brand that does this is Emotiva which makes killer home audio gear at great prices, and they've got my loyalty as well.
 

ramffml

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speaking from the guy who just said he was going away from redline? lol cmon man

wasnt this yesterday?

I'm not sure what the issue is? RL is a great oil choice for tick, I didn't say otherwise despite switching to HPL.

I personally believe HPL will do the same thing as RL for the tick based on 2 properties (very high moly + cleaning/detergents which is my personal belief as to what causes tick; varnish, gunk etc.) which is one reason why I'm running it, the second being I wanted to test the excellent winter properties of the oil. Third, I want to run a 0w oil as my interval changes don't always line up with summer/fall, and we all know RL 0w-30 is changing; but the quality of that change in regards to tick is an unknown. Fourth, I ran the PP due to it's use of magnesium over calcium in hope that it might mitigate my pinging under heavy load (turns out it didn't, but that was one reason for the HPL choice).

So my 2 positions are consistent; I'm running the best oil I can find, based on my understanding of how tick occurs, and I'm running it before I get tick in hopes of preventing it. RL is a top choice, I personally believe HPL is as well.

Edit: I still have one batch of RL 5w-30 which I hope to run as well. That was a nice find in my garage the other day.
 

HEMIMANN

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@ramffml - I will likely change to HPL 0W-30 Super Car when my old Red Line 0W-30 stock runs out.

I also analyzed it as the optimal alternative to old Red Line 0W-30. Being all PAO same as Amsoil, plus beaucoup moly, plus shear resistant star polymer vii seems the ultimate recipe to me for Hemi engine.

My only, and I mean only question is just how stable the star polymer additive is. Only UOA will tell us. My plan is also year round use to see how it performs during hot summer towing.
 

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@ramffml - I will likely change to HPL 0W-30 Super Car when my old Red Line 0W-30 stock runs out.

I also analyzed it as the optimal alternative to old Red Line 0W-30. Being all PAO same as Amsoil, plus beaucoup moly, plus shear resistant star polymer vii seems the ultimate recipe to me for Hemi engine.

My only, and I mean only question is just how stable the star polymer additive is. Only UOA will tell us. My plan is also year round use to see how it performs during hot summer towing.
The back of the bottle says the VII they use had a shear stability index of just 5. Ill have to research shesr stability index
 

HEMIMANN

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HPL Super Car 0W-30 HTHS is 3.5 cP, Red Line is 3.4 cP. For 0W-30's, HPL slightly more shear stable than Red Line.

Don't think we have any UOA's of RL 0W-30 (original formula), but I'm not going to look now. Point is HPL should be as least as good, if not better, than Red Line.
 

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HPL Super Car 0W-30 HTHS is 3.5 cP, Red Line is 3.4 cP. For 0W-30's, HPL slightly more shear stable than Red Line.

Don't think we have any UOA's of RL 0W-30 (original formula), but I'm not going to look now. Point is HPL should be as least as good, if not better, than Red Line.
I thought you did one? Or was that 5w30?
 

Hemi395

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HPL Super Car 0W-30 HTHS is 3.5 cP, Red Line is 3.4 cP. For 0W-30's, HPL slightly more shear stable than Red Line.

Don't think we have any UOA's of RL 0W-30 (original formula), but I'm not going to look now. Point is HPL should be as least as good, if not better, than Red Line.
I have one, just have to dig it up
 

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I'm always amazed at how crazy people get over oil on these forums.

You'd be better off investing in a good catch can system IMHO - you would not believe the crap that comes out of that...

Run good synthetic oil, a good filter, keep the level right, and change it when the computer says to - which for my driving, is right at 10k miles (I do not tow). 71k on my 2014 5.7L with no oil burn & no tick. Mobil 1 extended is good for 20k miles (conservatively), yet guys are flushing 7 quarts down the drain every 4k (or less)? Makes no sense to me, but to each their own. ;)
 

HEMIMANN

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I'm amazed at people unfamiliar with issues unique to the vehicles in this forum, having read none of it, who without asking about it from those who know, spout ignorance defeating the point of being in a Forum short of need for attention.
 

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I can't find the pic I saved of it but this was from 4/21, not many miles but a ton of cold starts without the block heater plugged in. Hopefully you guys can read that...
 

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Burla

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I can't find the pic I saved of it but this was from 4/21, not many miles but a ton of cold starts without the block heater plugged in. Hopefully you guys can read that...
not bad for a hemi tick truck, lol. That sheet is the best proof we have lubrication strategies work. It isnt a band aid or a mask, you cant fake wear numbers. thanks for posting
 

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