My 1992 Dodge W-150, and some questions

Hey folks ... I'm new to the forum and I thought that I would post up my Dodge truck. It's a 1992 4WD that my dad bought brand new. He wanted me to have it when he reached the point where he couldn't drive any longer. At first I was a little skeptical about that, but he passed away last summer and now I'm pretty attached to the truck.

It's got the 318 V8, fuel injection and a 4 speed overdrive transmission. It's got a little over 77K miles on it, although the odometer stopped working a few miles ago. I've read some threads about the odometer gears, so that will be an upcoming project.

Some pics:









So, a couple of questions about this model truck.

I completed the LED dash light upgrade, so now all of my dash lights work. Including the "Check Engine" light and the "Anti-lock" and "Brake" lights.

So first ... how can I pull codes to see what the check engine light is about? Is there a connector under the dash to hook up a scan tool?

Next, the anti-lock brakes. I read a thread about a vacuum line coming from the brake booster to a sensor, but my truck doesn't have the extra vacuum tube. The fitting is there, but it's capped off. How can I check this out? I replaced the front brake pads, but I don't recall any sensors connected to the front brakes.

Finally, as you can see from the last picture, I need a new tailgate. Are there any sponsors that sell those?

Thanks

Bill

that tailgate might be able to be fixed. you can buy aftermarket tailgates but like usually they are not as good as stock one.

the truck would only have rear wheel anti lock brakes. the sensor is mounted on the rear axle. most of the time they don't really work that great. also did the check engine/abs and brake light start staying on when you swapped to led? i think i remember a few spots you can't run leds because they will stay on any time the truck is on.

to check for codes you do the key dance

1. Cycle the ignition key ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON within 5 seconds. To cycle the ignition key ON means to turn it only as far as it takes to get the radio to come on. It does not mean to turn the engine on.

2. Count the number of times the "check engine" lamp on the instrument panel flashes on and off. The number of flashes represents the code. There is a slight pause between the flashes representing the first and second digits of the code. Longer pauses separate individual codes. For example, flash-flash-flash [pause] flash-flash represents the code 32.

A code of "55" represents end of error codes. If this is all you get then no error codes are stored in the computer. This is the normal condition

CODE Description of Trouble Code
11 Timing belt skipped 1 tooth or more from initial learned value, Intermittent loss of either camshaft or crankshaft position sensor, No crank reference signal detected during engine cranking
12 Direct battery input to PCM was disconnected within the last 50 key-on cycles (normal)
13 No change in MAP from start to run
14 MAP sensor voltage too low
15 No vehicle speed sensor signal
17 Closed loop temp not reached or engine cold too long
21 02s sensor problem (oxygen sensor), upstream or down stream
22 Engine coolant temp sensor out of range
23 Intake air temp sensor out of range
24 Throttle Position sensor out of range
25 Idle air control motor circuits, target idle not reached (+/- 200),vacuum leak found
27 Injector control circuit
31 Evap purge flow monitor failure or evap solenoid circuit
32 EGR system failure
33 A/C clutch relay circuit
34 Speed control Solenoid circuits
35 Rad Fan control relay circuit
37 Torque converter clutch solenoid CKT or park/neutral switch failure
41 Generator field not switching properly
42 Fuel pump relay control ckt, Auto shutdown relay control ckt, No ASD relay output voltage at PCM, Fuel level sending unit volts out of range, Fuel level unit No change over miles
43 Multiple/ single cylinder misfire
44 Battery temp sensor volts out of range
45 Overdrive solenoid shorted or open (automatic transmission only)
46 Charging system voltage too high
47 Charging system voltage too low
51 Fuel system lean
52 Fuel system rich
53 Internal control failure
54 No Cam signal at PCM
55 End of error messages (If you get this only, no errors were found)
62 PCM failure SRI mile not stored
63 PCM Failure EEPROM write denied
64 Catalytic Converter Efficiency Failure
65 Power steering switch failure

Thanks for the reply Crazzywolfie.

Yes, I noticed the Anti-lock and brake lights after I had swapped LED's into those sockets. The same for the Check Engine light. I found the sequence to pull the check engine codes, and the only code that I found was "12", indicating that the battery had been disconnected from the ECU. Again, that light wasn't on prior to swapping in the LED. I didn't check to see if those specific bulbs were burned out, but perhaps it's as you say and I can't use LEDs for those locations. I'll swap old bulbs back into those spots.

Regarding the tailgate, I took it to a body shop and that owner told me that I would need to replace it. While the edge is dented as shown in the picture, that dent forced the sides to split apart. And that is the part that the body guy didn't think that he could fix. But, your comment is enough of a reason to get a second estimate.

Thanks!

Bill

led lights are a lot more sensitive to the power they receive. i got led lights in both my vehicles but i am pretty sure there was a few spots that i had to run stock bulbs just because of how sensitive the led lights where.

the dent could possibly be worse than it looks in the picture. just to me it almost looks like it might have be able to be pulled out with a stud welder and slide hammer. i had a similar dent on a truck tailgate and my dad was able to get most of the dent out with a hammer but it might not have been so deep. i forget since it was so long ago.

also as far as fixing the odometer goes it is a easy job but a bit time consuming and a bit expensive. the gear should be super cheap because of the size but for some reason it is not.

Wow, nice looking truck and welcome! That looks a 1/2 ton nicer than my 1991 W-150!

Great looking truck!