4x4 Posi-Lok review

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Yeret

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4x4 Posi-Lok - 4WD Engagement Systems

I had this installed in my truck last year at the same time that I had my transmission serviced. I can't speak on the process of installing it since I'm not the one who did but I figure that I can say a few words about it for those that are on the fence about going this route.

First of all, the guys at the shop did a really good job in the placement of the "lever." It sits above the accelerator but is just out of reach of my 10 1/2 shoe so I don't have issues hitting it when transitioning from gas to brake. I have read that people with larger feet tend to brush the lever especially when wearing boots but I guess that I'm lucky enough to have a smaller shoe size and mostly wear running shoes. If you wear a size 12 work boot, you're probably gonna hit the lever going from gas to brake and vice versa so it's something to consider. Moving the lever towards the passenger side a couple inches should fix this.

As far as the kit itself, it had absolutely everything needed for the job. The cable housing is very thick and heavy. Definitely a well-made unit.

Operation wise, there was a very critical point that my instruction book did not mention. Following their instructions, simply pulling the lever back while the transfer case is engaged will lock the front axle. From what I experienced, it's not quite that simple and I ended up in a few dicey spots because of this. Further research shed some very bright light on the matter. In the case of our trucks you need to be in Drive then engage the transfer case and then pull the Posi-Lok lever back until it stops. After a few feet, the lever will pull back a bit further. Release the button and the front axle is now engaged.

To disengage, simply hold the button in and push it back. The button should be completely flat on its base. I find that the system disengages 10x easier if you are moving in REVERSE. And then simply shift the transfer case back to 2WD.

I would say that the system is a bit fickle to engage/disengage especially in cold weather but my front end has never been serviced other than a driver side seal so I'm not sure if the system would work easier with a rebuilt axle or not.

The main issue that I have with the setup is that it requires that the truck is moving in order to engage. This is however an issue with the CAD axle design itself rather than the Posi-Lok. In other words, if you're in 2WD and you get stuck to the point where you can't move, you're in trouble. With a little force, you can get the front axle to engage but it will be a little noisy and can possibly damage stuff especially the shift fork. I have however been in similar fixes with the original vacuum setup and have gotten stuck (to my embarrassment) in places where electric-actuated 4x4's got through no problem. Bottom line from my experience is that the Central Axle Disconnect is far from a perfect design.

Overall, I am personally happy with the setup but I can't really recommend this for everyone. It can be somewhat fickle and isn't very "slick" for those who are spoiled by electric or a proper-functioning vacuum setup. When engaged however, this setup truly does lock in the front axle and I will say that my 4x4 traction is better than it ever was with my old vacuum configuration. If you're okay with the fickleness of a truly mechanical setup, this system really does kick ass! Just anticipate when you'll need it and don't try using it or any part-time 4x4 on any 2WD-tractionable surface. It gets noisy when you do, LOL.

If your OEM setup is working just fine, don't bother with the swap. If your setup is failing, this is one way to go.

My two pennies. :favorites13:
 

toomanymopar

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Got a link? Im on my second actuator. Thanks for the review. I was thinking of getting the one from summit that just locks the front axle but I didnt know the downfall of not have the pita system.
 
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Yeret

Yeret

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Yeah, I put a link in the top of my post. I wouldn't recommend the Perma-Lok if your truck sees road duty as our four wheel drives systems aren't meant to be used on-road. Stuff breaks really quickly if you do.
 

dapepper9

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Summit has kits. 2 are the cable kits and 1 is the Perm-Lok kit.
https://m.summitracing.com/search/y...art-type/front-axle-engagement-systems-manual

I disagree with Yeret though on the wearing things out. Why? Because 02 2500/3500 trucks and 3rd gen solid axle trucks all use a full solid shaft and automatic hubs like we have. Same setup as us with no CAD. After 1996 the same thing was integrated into jeeps. I myself run a solid shaft from EMS Offroad. Zero difference in mileage and no extra wear in any of these vehicles
 

toomanymopar

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I own two jeeps (97 jgc 4.0 and 98 5.9 limited) as well as my truck and I noticed neither have it. Maybe I will look into that solid shaft. Im tired of replacing actuators and wondering when I get stuck Is it going to go into 4wd this time?
This is an article from there site

You can use this kit with or without our Hub Conversion Kit.

This is a great way to add to our Hub Conversion kit. Ditch the stock troublesome parts for a new less complicated setup.

What about your gears turning all the time now. Good point, but it seams that even Jeep and Dodge both have gotten away from the CAD since Jeeps did away with the CAD in the Cherokees in 91 and Dodge in the 2500/3500 in 01.
I may have to check it out.
 

alanack6795

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I prefer the CAD system or manual hubs, don't care for messing with a stupid cable that is never easy to engage
 

dapepper9

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I own two jeeps (97 jgc 4.0 and 98 5.9 limited) as well as my truck and I noticed neither have it. Maybe I will look into that solid shaft. Im tired of replacing actuators and wondering when I get stuck Is it going to go into 4wd this time?
This is an article from there site

You can use this kit with or without our Hub Conversion Kit.

This is a great way to add to our Hub Conversion kit. Ditch the stock troublesome parts for a new less complicated setup.

What about your gears turning all the time now. Good point, but it seams that even Jeep and Dodge both have gotten away from the CAD since Jeeps did away with the CAD in the Cherokees in 91 and Dodge in the 2500/3500 in 01.
I may have to check it out.

Gears turn regardless, still connected to the driverside from the factory
 

BBartow

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Why wouldn't they?

Because the carrier doesn't turn. Since the passenger side shaft is two piece only the outer shaft spins with the wheel. The inner spins the opposite direction as the driver side shaft. Since both sides are disconnected from one another it only spins the side and spider gears not the whole carrier, r&p, and driveshaft. If both sides were connected and moved in the same direction it would spin.
 

dapepper9

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At slow speeds no but at cruising down the highway friction at the spiders overrides the carriers resistance to spinning. Carrier and driveshaft will spin going down the highway because it's easier on the system overall. You'd blow your spiders if they were turning that kind of rpm all the time
 
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