Lifter Failure

I just opened up the oil pump from the motor with the lifter failure. The cam was pretty eaten up, I posted the cam image further up the thread. Overall it doesn’t look too bad, I was told this was a high mileage motor also. There are some scratches but nothing enough to catch a fingernail. In my un professional opinion it looks like it should still work fine if you didn’t want to replace the pump. Just posting pics so you guys can see...





I Bleed Ram Trucks

Big Boi said:

For **** sake... I'm just looking for help regarding the lifter failure. Not 7 pages or ranting about politics and CAFE.

Local performance shop tore into the engineer today and found two bad lifters with minor wear on the cam. Both failed lifters still spun though. The picture of the lifter I posted earlier was completely ceased.

Ordered Jay Greene's Stage .5 cam kit, gaskets, timing chain, plugs, etc. Also switching to Amsoil

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Of course it did, because someone said something negative about the Redline.

I think you choice in parts and oil is good, heavier weight over 5-20 is an almost must.

Sorry this happened to you, do you have any pictures of the tear down or the parts left over? Also, if you don’t mind could you post up the total cost to you after it’s all said and done.

I hope it doesn’t cause too much heart ache or too big of damage on your wallet/bank account.


2018 2500 6.4 4x4 4.10 Amsoil SS 0w-40
2016 Durango 5.7 AWD 3.07 Amsoil SS 5W-30
1996 Nissan Altima 2.4 Amsoil SS 5W-30

AFMoulton said:

Of course it did, because someone said something negative about the Redline.

I think you choice in parts and oil is good, heavier weight over 5-20 is an almost must.

Sorry this happened to you, do you have any pictures of the tear down or the parts left over? Also, if you don’t mind could you post up the total cost to you after it’s all said and done.

I hope it doesn’t cause too much heart ache or too big of damage on your wallet/bank account.


2018 2500 6.4 4x4 4.10 Amsoil SS 0w-40
2016 Durango 5.7 AWD 3.07 Amsoil SS 5W-30
1996 Nissan Altima 2.4 Amsoil SS 5W-30

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I don't recall anyone saying anything negative about redline, even if they did, who cares, to each their own.

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It’s getting old, that’s why.


2018 2500 6.4 4x4 4.10 Amsoil SS 0w-40
2016 Durango 5.7 AWD 3.07 Amsoil SS 5W-30
1996 Nissan Altima 2.4 Amsoil SS 5W-30

Nothing was said bad about any oil other than saying 30 wt is better than 20 wt.

Please don't make this more arguing .

To the OP

Sorry to hear of your situation Sir

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VB712 said:

I have been using redline 5w-30 for a year now. Next change I might do 2 qts 10-30 and 5 qts 5-30.

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From what I understand, mixing weights of oils isn't suggested, brands one thing not weights.

I had the same thing happen to my 2012 CC 1500 Laramie Hemi in November 2017, that I bought used a few years ago. Had about 83k miles on it at the time. There’s a thread on the forum about my experience. Fortunately had a third party warranty that honored the dealership repair. Engine never ran right/smoothly after the repair. Now I have a 2018 bought new. Probably going to switch over to Redline 5w30 at 10K mile oil change based upon all of the input in this forum. Either that or Amsoil 5w30. Synthetic filter as well of course. Was a M1 full synth man for years but am making an exception for the Hemi as I want to keep this truck for a long time coming.


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HitchHiker said:

I had the same thing happen to my 2012 CC 1500 Laramie Hemi in November 2017, that I bought used a few years ago. Had about 83k miles on it at the time. There’s a thread on the forum about my experience. Fortunately had a third party warranty that honored the dealership repair. Engine never ran right/smoothly after the repair. Now I have a 2018 bought new. Probably going to switch over to Redline 5w30 at 10K mile oil change based upon all of the input in this forum. Either that or Amsoil 5w30. Synthetic filter as well of course. Was a M1 full synth man for years but am making an exception for the Hemi as I want to keep this truck for a long time coming.


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Did you run M1 in the 2012?

crackerjack1957 said:

Did you run M1 in the 2012?

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PP synth blend 5w20. I owned it from 63k miles to roughly 83k miles before trading up to my 2018 in January. I’m currently running PUP 5w20 in my 2018 after the FF oil change. Next one will be 5w30 Amsoil or RL as discussed.


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HitchHiker said:

PP synth blend 5w20. I owned it from 63k miles to roughly 83k miles before trading up to my 2018 in January. I’m currently running PUP 5w20 in my 2018 after the FF oil change. Next one will be 5w30 Amsoil or RL as discussed.


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It’s probably also worth noting that during the tear down on my 2012 hemi the tech said the engine was in great shape overall except for the stuck lifter that ground down the cam. Very clean inside, no signs of any abuse at all.


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HitchHiker said:

It’s probably also worth noting that during the tear down on my 2012 hemi the tech said the engine was in great shape overall except for the stuck lifter that ground down the cam. Very clean inside, no signs of any abuse at all.


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If I may ask, i would like to know if your engine had the lifter tick at startup. Alot i mean. I have a theory if left ticking for long enough that bangs the **** out of the roller bearings on the lifter and they lock up and grind the cam. Its just a theory. In the past all flat hydraulic lifters that tick wouldnt hurt a thing like old chevy and the like. But this may kill the roller lifters.

Big Boi said:

Non-MDS(Hellcat) lifters

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Curious - when swapping these in do you also need a tune to deactivate MDS in software (I assume you do) or does the truck somehow realize it doesn't have the MDS lifters and not attempt to activate?

OCDTech said:

If I may ask, i would like to know if your engine had the lifter tick at startup. Alot i mean. I have a theory if left ticking for long enough that bangs the **** out of the roller bearings on the lifter and they lock up and grind the cam. Its just a theory. In the past all flat hydraulic lifters that tick wouldnt hurt a thing like old chevy and the like. But this may kill the roller lifters.

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Nothing that I ever noticed. My engine in the 2012 was actually fairly quiet given it had over 80k miles on it.

HitchHiker said:

Nothing that I ever noticed. My engine in the 2012 was actually fairly quiet given it had over 80k miles on it.

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Thank You for the reply, this pops my bubble somewhat but i will have to settle on a couple of other things,

1. It was a bad batch of lifters, (faulty)
2. I believe as many do that 5w-20 a little thin for the hemis. (Although fine for many other engines)
3. Possible lots of idling.
4. Possible metal temper strength, (lowest on my list of believing)
5. Or just a random hit and miss failure.

I don't believe the MDS has anything to with it as some failures are on engines without it, also some lifters aren't seized on the MDS cylinders.

Whatever the true cause, we may never know but all of us on this forum reporting the issue are doing the absolute best thing in a situation like this, so that we may all try the things we think may help, keep us updated with the results and what i think is the coolest is that there are many different people, trying many different things, maximizing our chances of success. Good job every one.

My experiment is 5.75 or so quarts of 5w 20 PP and 24 oz of pure synthetic lucas oil stabilizer. Has absolutely fixed the lifter tick and makes me feel good, so i will continue this for a while. I may go to 5 quarts of 5w 30 PP and one quart of 5w 20 which will bring it close to 5w 30 but not quite. I know others may disagree with a couple of these methods, but it just another avenue to try that somebody may not have. On second thought im going to do more research on mixing weights.

OCD, another great post. Just makes the point that so many on this forum have made. Each engine in its life cycle is different. Glad to hear that you found a solution that is working for your 5.7.

chrisbh17 said:

If the lifters and/or cam lobe(s) are worn down, where does the metal go?

Ive honestly always wondered how the prescribed fixed is ONLY replacing cam and/or lifters....how can one tell for sure the metal shavings didnt end up somewhere they arent supposed to be?

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You cut your oil filter open. Suspect that is where you will find the metal particles.

huntergreen said:

You cut your oil filter open. Suspect that is where you will find the metal particles.

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Some in the filter and some in the oil pan would be my bet.


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Certainly the filter check is quick and easy. I would also drop the pan and look at the oil pick up and pan. If I was faced with this, and my tech showed me scuffed or gouged cam and lifters,,,he would not rebuild until he flushed/cleaned the block galleys etc. I do not know what that would require, just saying I would expect that.

Just to clarify, I'm not bashing any oil company. Per the recommendation of the performance shop that's doing the swap I'm switching to AMSOIL . I'm gonna run and over the counter full synthetic oil with a WIX filter for 5he first 100 miles then make the switch with a new WIX filter. I'll be ordering directly from AMSOIL.

I did hear a minor tick before the faikure, but it I took it as a 120k motor showing it's age. It wasn't bad as all, no CEL or codes. The truck ran strong til the end. With the shorty headers the tick got louder after they were installed a few years back. Thinner metal shorties compared to heavy manifolds that muffled the tick. The tick I heard was nothing like the knock that I heard three weeks ago

Total cost is $6k