Easiest way to upgrade system with factory radio?

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MadGumby

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So I have upgraded to the 4c 8.4 factory radio and love the carplay, so I want to keep this headunit.

I would like to add my sub and upgrade the stock (non-alpine) system. I am trying to avoid running all new speaker wires to the doors, is this possible?

The net audio T harness would allow me to run from the factory headunit back to a LOC/processor, then to the PDX amp, but what do I do about going from the amp to the doors? Any thoughts?
 

RedFalcon

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I don't really see anything other than running new wire to the door from the amp. Unless you spend the extra money to run Rockford Fosgate PM100X1 BTL Amplifiers in your doors. I know someone who ran those for their coupe with the factory upgraded audio system and it worked well for them, but seeing as you don't have the alpine system, I would just run the wire. It's not difficult or anything.
 

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It’s the wiring equivalent of “Buy Once Cry Once”. It’s worth running new and better wires from the back of the cab to each speaker location. While you’re running them, think about any possibility of future additions (tweeters in sail panels for example) and pre-run an additional wire now.
 

fufanu180

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I’ve always gone by “your system is only as strong as the weakest link”. By not upgrading the wiring you’re relying heavily on the stock wires to handle this added power when that’s not what they were built for. It’s time consuming but in the long run you’ll be glad you just ran new speaker wire.


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MadGumby

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Well, I guess that settles it then, I'll just run new wire. I've done it before, but it is a little more time than I was hoping to spend but you're all right, it's really the best and only option.

Wiring harnesses then: Can someone point me to the simplest solution there at least? PAC harness to maintain steering wheel controls AND the Net Audio T - harness?
 

88ROOK

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i didnt upgrade my speaker wires and it rocks so loud, running a fosgate DSR1, with 2 JL Audio xd750s., 4 jl audio 6x9s and Jlaudio 3.5s up front. install was super simple on non alpine system
 
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MadGumby

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i didnt upgrade my speaker wires and it rocks so loud, running a fosgate DSR1, with 2 JL Audio xd750s., 4 jl audio 6x9s and Jlaudio 3.5s up front. install was super simple on non alpine system

Did you tap into the existing speaker wires somewhere or how did you get around running new wires? What am I missing here?
 

88ROOK

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Did you tap into the existing speaker wires somewhere or how did you get around running new wires? What am I missing here?

just tapped into the speaker wires behind the head unit, had to run 9wire from the amps
 
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MadGumby

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Is there something about there needing to be certain resistance for the factory head unit to work? Or am I making that up?


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88ROOK

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i believe the fosgate dsr1 has that built in, but in other threads ive read people have had to put some type of resistor inline
 
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MadGumby

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Did you use an idatalink maestro then for your steering wheel controls?
 

88ROOK

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no need, all you need is the dsr1 unit. i believe the meastro is only used if you have the factory amp setup. i believe there is an audio control unit that hooks up the same way but the fosgate dsr1 has alot better controllability on the settings and its bluetooth so you just download the app and setup everything through your phone. trust me its a very slick setup but does cost a few bucks more
 
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MadGumby

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Well that’s exactly what I wanted to hear. I will just go head unit to dsr1 to amp then speaker wires back up front. I looked at the T harness from Net Audio and I believe that will allow me to connect right to the factory speaker wiring in the doors won’t it?


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88ROOK

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sounds like alot of work if you tap into the wires at the doors...all the wires are right there behind the head unit and the dsr1 tucks in behind the head unit also (thats the good thing about it being bluetooth) out of site. I taped all the rca connections so none would come apart also
 

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Do some research on the DSR1, lots of people in the audio forums having issues ranging from completely ****** to little weird stuff.
 

88ROOK

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Zero issues here, and fosgate tech stayed on the phone with me til i got everything up and running . reason being is i wasnt getting my bluetooth locked in properly
 

David Huffman

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So I have upgraded to the 4c 8.4 factory radio and love the carplay, so I want to keep this headunit.

I would like to add my sub and upgrade the stock (non-alpine) system. I am trying to avoid running all new speaker wires to the doors, is this possible?

The net audio T harness would allow me to run from the factory headunit back to a LOC/processor, then to the PDX amp, but what do I do about going from the amp to the doors? Any thoughts?

I got the T Harness from Net Audio in Wichita Falls TX. That kept me from having to cut wires from the factory hardness. Got a roll of 9 wire from Amazon and used an Audiocontrol lc7i. The 9 wire is great but you will need to cut the roll in half. One half will be going an out from the radio going to the signal processor. The other will be from the amp back to the factory speakers. Do not run both sets of 9 wire on the same side of the truck...cable too bulky to both be on one side...use both sides of the truck to run. The trick is to have Net Audio run seperate speaker wires with bass blockers for the dash 3-1/2 speakers and the rest off the amp. The drivers side front speakers is where the CarPlay outputs. It is literally deafening if you add amped power to that speaker.
 
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MadGumby

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I got the T Harness from Net Audio in Wichita Falls TX. That kept me from having to cut wires from the factory hardness. Got a roll of 9 wire from Amazon and used an Audiocontrol lc7i. The 9 wire is great but you will need to cut the roll in half. One half will be going an out from the radio going to the signal processor. The other will be from the amp back to the factory speakers. Do not run both sets of 9 wire on the same side of the truck...cable too bulky to both be on one side...use both sides of the truck to run. The trick is to have Net Audio run seperate speaker wires with bass blockers for the dash 3-1/2 speakers and the rest off the amp. The drivers side front speakers is where the CarPlay outputs. It is literally deafening if you add amped power to that speaker.

That’s exactly the kind of info I was hoping to find. I didn’t realize car play only outputs to the front 3 1/2s. Just navigation and Siri though, right?


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88ROOK

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I got the T Harness from Net Audio in Wichita Falls TX. That kept me from having to cut wires from the factory hardness. Got a roll of 9 wire from Amazon and used an Audiocontrol lc7i. The 9 wire is great but you will need to cut the roll in half. One half will be going an out from the radio going to the signal processor. The other will be from the amp back to the factory speakers. Do not run both sets of 9 wire on the same side of the truck...cable too bulky to both be on one side...use both sides of the truck to run. The trick is to have Net Audio run seperate speaker wires with bass blockers for the dash 3-1/2 speakers and the rest off the amp. The drivers side front speakers is where the CarPlay outputs. It is literally deafening if you add amped power to that speaker.

all this false with my setup...IJS. any questions just ask
 
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MadGumby

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88rook,

Do you have CarPlay? You didn’t need resistance on your lines? I have seen videos of guys installing dummy speakers even just to have the resistance the headunit needs. I now how no idea what to run


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