Synthetic Oil

Oil of Choice

  • Castrol Syntec/Edge

    Votes: 233 8.4%
  • Royal Purple

    Votes: 325 11.7%
  • AMSOil

    Votes: 396 14.3%
  • Valvoline Synpower

    Votes: 160 5.8%
  • Mobil 1

    Votes: 992 35.9%
  • Other

    Votes: 660 23.9%

  • Total voters
    2,766

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Burla

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I know you guys mostly use synthetic, but was wondering if any of you use dyno oil. Reason being is I put Castrol GTX 5/20 in about a 1000mi ago and the start up tap is virtually non existent and it seems to be running smoother. I know I will get blasted for putting in Castril but I’m look for dyno oil reviews. Thanks

Whatever works, did this cure a tick that a different oil was making?
 

SyN

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Be prepared Fellas oil formulations as we speak are changing very rapidly due to TGDI.

SN Plus is here.
Formulations with way less calcium & more magnesium is the future.
Less Moly & More Boron & from what I have seen a good shot of Titanium beginning to show up in some brands.

Major Boutique oils are possibly the only future outlet.
Amsoil has even fabricated a special TGDI oil.
Turbo - Direct Injection —>D1G2 oils are the future.

Only time will tell if Ram creates the next generation Hemi (DI).
My reading and understanding is so far only major issues have occurred with the turbo direct injection not so much within your normally aspirated direct injection engines.

Just prepare yourself for some really major formulation changes with oil’s with in the next few years. Valvoline has already started it. (Pic posted below)


Even though M1 has switched their formulations a few years ago with way less calcium and more magnesium evidently they seen the possible issues with the valve deposits within the TGDI engines. Maybe the fix is within the PCV systems themselves?

UnFortunately catch cans are not the most viable solution.
Need to get these TGDI engines out and stretch their legs quite often they say the best solution is a good old Italian tuneup

B4FC7CA9-6117-43F8-82F7-7FD3153D0149.jpeg

Will be very interesting to see how long Ram Drags their feet with the DI switch within their 5.7L & 6.4L.
 
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Burla

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cb5cb41f84bdd7eee45e28182993a24e.jpg



That is what Redline c+ looks like in a 6 speed towing a trailer up a grade fellas. I don't know that d6 is all that much of an upgrade for the 8 speed, but c+ looks good on a hot summer day towing your family and trailer to a vacation spot. Notice the oil temp, yeah that engine is working. Redline c+ is like ice tea for your transmission.

Is he towing a trailer doing 70mph up a grade? Quick, hide the evidence. More like 67, I guess he is in a hurry to visit with his sister in law, lol.
 

SyN

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When the time comes RL C+ will be poured into my new 68RFE around the 15K mile mark.
As well as my BW44-46 oh don’t forget that hard working Power Steering!

Best start saving my pennies now.
 

Burla

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Modern atf's are really good products, unless there is a problem like temp, I'd say wait and use up the factory stuff. I would say first change, the only way to do it is drop the pan and look for metal. I have had enough c+ in my closet to do a change but the atf looks so good I can't bring myself to waste it. I'm getting close to 30k miles, so soon I will do it anyway.
 

Fitz-0518

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So I think the answer is, there is no factual time line. Be practical. Let the transmission go thru break in and learning logic. My 2018 2500 took about 3000 miles of driving and towing to sort it self out. Seems that would be a reasonable time to get the 39 cent a quart trans fluid out and upgraded. That temp posting says it all.
 

Burla

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cb5cb41f84bdd7eee45e28182993a24e.jpg


3ed59be76791a2d875caadd8e80a9cd7.jpg



That's the trailer towing in summer up grade with a 138F transmission temperature with the engine working that hard. This is why I say it is more beneficial to have redline in transmissions and gears then engines, minus the hemi tick conversation of course. In other words, if not for hemi tick I would likely be running m1 or PUP in the engine, Redline c+ definitely in the transmsion. Just say'n

What is that back door for Corey?
 

tidefan1967

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cb5cb41f84bdd7eee45e28182993a24e.jpg


3ed59be76791a2d875caadd8e80a9cd7.jpg



That's the trailer towing in summer up grade with a 138F transmission temperature with the engine working that hard. This is why I say it is more beneficial to have redline in transmissions and gears then engines, minus the hemi tick conversation of course. In other words, if not for hemi tick I would likely be running m1 or PUP in the engine, Redline c+ definitely in the transmsion. Just say'n

What is that back door for Corey?
Midget entrance?
 

Hemi395

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cb5cb41f84bdd7eee45e28182993a24e.jpg



That is what Redline c+ looks like in a 6 speed towing a trailer up a grade fellas. I don't know that d6 is all that much of an upgrade for the 8 speed, but c+ looks good on a hot summer day towing your family and trailer to a vacation spot. Notice the oil temp, yeah that engine is working. Redline c+ is like ice tea for your transmission.

Is he towing a trailer doing 70mph up a grade? Quick, hide the evidence. More like 67, I guess he is in a hurry to visit with his sister in law, lol.
This was at the crest of the mountains so that's why I'm going 70 lol. Up the grade she was in 3rd at almost 4k at maybe 55mph. Then we hit flat ground and the trans temp dropped to 136 and the outside temp went up to 85. Super happy with my trans temps.

Oil temp hit 228 so far which I'm happy with as well. Still have to get a rear diff temp...7e44aff99f7896cef1f7b170262c10e6.jpg
 

Burla

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Ho disposal door, don't come back neither.
 

Trooper2

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Burla to answer your question yes. I kept getting a tapping sound on start up. Tried different weights of PUP and decided on a whim (and since I needed a change) to put in Castrol GTX Dyno 5/20. Only gonna go 5000mi on the change so we will see. I’m 1000mi in.
 

Burla

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Hey man, sounds like you have a winner, keep us updated. Did you use the same filter will all of them, is so which one, if not which ones?
 

Ramnewbie

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anti drain back valves do not keep oil in the lines, only in the filter, gravity always empties the lines. It only keeps oil in the filter, which we all have? I've never heard of anyone having a dry filter when changing oil in a ram. I'm not sure if you are saying something different.
Yes the ADV keeps the filter full, now as far as how much oil is left between oil pump and filter or filter and rest of the engine would be very hard to figure. The only way to see if any oil was there would be to pull you're filter after sitting overnight.

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk
 

Burla

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Yes the ADV keeps the filter full, now as far as how much oil is left between oil pump and filter or filter and rest of the engine would be very hard to figure. The only way to see if any oil was there would be to pull you're filter after sitting overnight.
/QUOTE]

Bud, their aint no oil in the lines. No way any valve they have made today will stop oil at operating viscosity from draining back down. You would literally need a ball valve for that. I don't believe any filter even advertises they keep oil in the lines.
 
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