Extra battery install question

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Ramitiner

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Hey guys, I'm getting my system put together and before I amp it I'm going to preemptively do some damage control. I'm going to do the big 3 with 0 awg wire and install an agm battery..... I am completely new to this but I'm planning on mounting it where the stock air filter used to be.. now, the stupid question is, does this auxiliary battery get hooked up to the alternator or the other battery. I'm guessing the battery but let me know. Thanks.
 

17CrewCab1500

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The extra battery really doesn't do anything for you in your situation. You really would benefit a ton more from having a stronger alternator. You can get a capacitor to act like a second battery.
 

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First why do you need an extra battery? How much power draw are you going to have and how long will it be in use. You can run a battery parallel with the stock battery or alternator, me I would use a battery isolator but thats just me.

Second will the battery be designated for your accessories or are you trying to add capacity to your current charging and electrical system.

What you need depending on how much power you actually have. The big 3/4 is a better start to keep from dimming which is what Im going to assume you are trying to do. So you are on the right track there. A capacitor is a band aide I wouldn't and haven't used one in years and years and years. Getting the power to the amps without it pulling from every where else is based on resistance, the less the better. So make sure all your cables are great in size and connections are clean.
 
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I got my 2 Alpine type Rs 12" and getting an amp that's rated for 2k rms. Also eventually getting an amp for the speakers pushing 100wrms x4 @ 4ohms. So I don't want to do anything else once I do this.
 

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Im pushing 1600 rms and with the big 3 I have near zero dimming. With the stock wire I was able to push the amp hard enough to get my LED headlights to power off.
 
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Ramitiner

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Yea, that's what I want to avoid, lol
 

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I dont think you'll need a second battery. Those are usually for when you are running some hard drawing mods... winch, 50" light bars, powered refrigerator coolers (wrangler owners run this a lot on their excursions), on board air, etc.

I agree, you should really only need the big 3, and if you add a capacitor to the system on the amp powering the sub, you should be fine. Maybe up the alternator.

But if you're serious on running a second battery because you plan on those big mods later, you can find several prepackaged kits on the googles.
 

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Hey guys, I'm getting my system put together and before I amp it I'm going to preemptively do some damage control. I'm going to do the big 3 with 0 awg wire and install an agm battery..... I am completely new to this but I'm planning on mounting it where the stock air filter used to be.. now, the stupid question is, does this auxiliary battery get hooked up to the alternator or the other battery. I'm guessing the battery but let me know. Thanks.

In line with the other battery (+2+)(-2-) this will give you a longer play time and more amperage(cca’s) meaning if your using a winch your gonna have more power to pull with or if your the loudest truck at the field party then you’ll have more hours before you have to crank the truck up. Had a gmc 3500 dually with winch and 4000 watt system and I ran 3 batteries on it 1 was just for a power inverter.


I Love my 18 Ram 2500HD 4x4 CC
Blue Streak Pearl off-road
 
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Ramitiner

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Hmm, I wonder if I should run it straight to the alternator and not to the other battery... This way I'll have one just for amps and such and it wouldn't mess at all with the factory electronics. The more I read the more crazy crap keeps coming up like if they're not the same batteries it can damage both and the alternator...
 

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872F2989-32B3-4B21-9EC1-899506BEE253.jpeg This is my back wall and my electrical is completely stock. I may get a better battery in the near future but not because the factory one is dying or anything. Haven’t had any issues over the last couple years.

Roughly 2,000 watts of mostly Class AB power. Small Zapco is Class D.
 

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You should definitely research how to connect the 2nd battery. These newer trucks are kind of sensitive to electrical changes.
 

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The more I read the more crazy crap keeps coming up like if they're not the same batteries it can damage both and the alternator...

Two deciding factors on if you need a second battery: the equipment your running requires the capacity (winch, snow plow, etc) or if you want to listen to your radio for extended periods without having the truck running.
When you add the second battery, use a continuous duty solenoid to disconnect it from the main battery when the truck is not running. You can use a SPDT to select if you want to solenoid to will come on with the truck running, keep it off or turn on using the second battery to "jump start" the truck if your main battery is weak/dead.

You could run both batteries in parallel to each other like they do in the CTD trucks, but then both batteries need to be the same (size, type and age).
You may be able to use the second battery tray from a CTD truck for either route you decide to go.
 
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Two deciding factors on if you need a second battery: the equipment your running requires the capacity (winch, snow plow, etc) or if you want to listen to your radio for extended periods without having the truck running.
When you add the second battery, use a continuous duty solenoid to disconnect it from the main battery when the truck is not running. You can use a SPDT to select if you want to solenoid to will come on with the truck running, keep it off or turn on using the second battery to "jump start" the truck if your main battery is weak/dead.

You could run both batteries in parallel to each other like they do in the CTD trucks, but then both batteries need to be the same (size, type and age).
You may be able to use the second battery tray from a CTD truck for either route you decide to go.


Cool, thanks. Where can I get that part number and of what year must it be?
 

crash68

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Where can I get that part number and of what year must it be?

If your asking about the second battery tray, I would imagine any of the Gen4 model years would work(probably all the same).
 
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Yes I was. Now how about running the amps exclusively from the second battery? Another words, run a line from the alternator to that battery, ground it to the chassis but not connect it with the other battery.
 

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Yes I was. Now how about running the amps exclusively from the second battery? Another words, run a line from the alternator to that battery, ground it to the chassis but not connect it with the other battery.

Techinically if you hook to the hot output of the alternator,you're still connected to the other battery.The alt feed is a direct feed to your original battery,so if you tie to it,both batteries will be connected in parallel.I think you can get a Group 27 AGM into the stock battery tray.I run a relocated battery in my toy,with a good sized Group 31 AGM in the relocated battery box,but mines done for traction,not stereo,lol
 

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Like stated above use a battery isolater it goes between your stock battery and the new one. then your amps would be powered off the new amp.

cap serve a purpose with big bass hits, but under continuous use they actually put resistance inline so your amp doesnt get full power.

OP without specs on your actual amps it hard to know what you need. if your looking at "budget" amps that advertise 2k watts do your research as most only put out a few hundred at rms. the rms power is what you need to match to that of the subs. an amp will seldom to never hit its "max" power.
 
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Like stated above use a battery isolater it goes between your stock battery and the new one. then your amps would be powered off the new amp.

cap serve a purpose with big bass hits, but under continuous use they actually put resistance inline so your amp doesnt get full power.

OP without specs on your actual amps it hard to know what you need. if your looking at "budget" amps that advertise 2k watts do your research as most only put out a few hundred at rms. the rms power is what you need to match to that of the subs. an amp will seldom to never hit its "max" power.


sorry, it is 2 12" Alpine type Rs
 

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Ok so, if I can add some insight to your query OP.... Currently trying to tackle a large stereo install myself 2 Memphis Mojo 15’s on a RF t2500 and a RFt400 pushing my 4 upgraded door speakers. Looking at 4000 watts rms.

Yes, you need a second battery. If you’re installing a second battery and like to listen to your music loud for extended periods an upgraded alternator would be ideal. I found the stock 160amp alt on my 18’ tradesman to be lacking.

Assuming you have big 3 done, which it sounds like you know is a must, what H.O. Alt do you go with? The problem is our trucks alternators are computer controlled. Only going to get so many amps doesn’t matter how big the new alt is....

Next step, one wire self exciting HO alternator. Forget the computer, voltage regulator is internal. Ah ha! Perfect! But wait.... what tells the alternator how many amps to put out? Well that’s simple it goes off of your engine rpm speed. Well that sounds like a fix right there one wire alternator it is!

Hold ur horses guy that one wire alternator literally doesn’t have any output under about 750 rpm. Our trucks idle at around 600 give or take. Well **** I’ll just raise my engine idle speed. No you won’t you have an 2018 truck you can’t even get a tuner yet that will do that. Oh. Well wtf!? I know man I know. (Sobbing noises in the background)

Ok so I think I’ve made myself pretty clear. Any questions? Bueller? Bueller?
 
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