Synthetic Oil

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R.L.K.

R.L.K.

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Burla said:
You already have headers?
Click to expand...
I think he has OEM exhaust ...he's planning on getting shorty headers if his manifold bolts are broken ...not certain as it could be read two different ways ?

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H

huntergreen

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U&A said:
Sometimes I wonder if the true hemi tic, like hard core loud a **** hemi tic is piston slap.

I know it’s easy for us to connect it to the valvetrain issues with the cam failures in these trucks. we have also seen cam failures in trucks and the owners have said they have never had the tic. These truck have been know to run forever with piston slap just like trucks can run forever with hemi tic.






I dont know.

Just thinking out loud


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Click to expand...
.



Agree completely, too many variables too make the jump to hemi tick leads to lifter and camshaft failure.
 
U&A

U&A

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huntergreen said:
.



Agree completely, too many variables too make the jump to hemi tick leads to lifter and camshaft failure.
Click to expand...

Well i know piston slap is definitely a concern when the piston skirts are short, and hemi’s have short piston skirts. So does the 5.3 vortec and the 6.0. They also have a history of piston slap. Supposedly the 6.4 has slightly longer skirts.


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Fitz-0518

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A quick and easy way to check for broken or lose exhaust manifold bolts. Short extension and socket. While the engine is cold, try to turn the bolts clock wise. I watched the tech do this on my 6.4. The broken bolts turn easily with out tightening. Broken bolts in the center tend to stay in the manifold. The ones on the back side often fall out when broken. This was the way he located two broken bolts on both sides.
 
iHemiMan

iHemiMan

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Fitz87gn said:
A quick and easy way to check for broken or lose exhaust manifold bolts. Short extension and socket. While the engine is cold, try to turn the bolts clock wise. I watched the tech do this on my 6.4. The broken bolts turn easily with out tightening. Broken bolts in the center tend to stay in the manifold. The ones on the back side often fall out when broken. This was the way he located two broken bolts on both sides.
Click to expand...

Thanks fitz maybe I’ll get around to trying this tonight


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F

Fitz-0518

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iHemiMan said:
That’s where the tick seems to be coming from - the passenger side.


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Click to expand...
Common side. Keep in mind that depending on how long they may been broken, they tend to rust. I noticed the tech used a 1/4" socket and drive. A couple of them had rusted but turned with out much effort. Hopefully you are under warranty. If not replace the broken bolts with ATR or AMR number 8's. BUT,,,you realy need to make sure that the manifold surface is flat IF you put the stock ones back on. The forum guys that have done this swear by the shorty's as the final solution.
 
U&A

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iHemiMan said:
No that part is stock. I’m saying if the OEM bolts and headers are trashed, I’m considering shortys



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Click to expand...

Absolutely.

I would never put OEM exhaust manifold back on even if i was taking it of fo another reason. It would not go back on.


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H

huntergreen

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U&A said:
Well i know piston slap is definitely a concern when the piston skirts are short, and hemi’s have short piston skirts. So does the 5.3 vortec and the 6.0. They also have a history of piston slap. Supposedly the 6.4 has slightly longer skirts.


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Click to expand...

But, as you stated, many hemi 5.7 hemi tick a way happily for many miles over many years.
 
HammerHead

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iHemiMan said:
I looked into the tick I’ve started to develop even while on RL 5-30 and it is persistent and doesn’t go away after a few minutes. And I don’t think it’s the exhaust manifold bolts either. It scares me but I’m not really sure what to do at this point. Wait it out? Maybe. Take it to a mechanic just to take a look at things? Maybe


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Click to expand...
Not sure what your exact noise is but I'll share with you what I've learned.
Broken manifold bolts sound like a loud clapping noise at morning start up, goes away within a few moments. It's something so profound you will know it.
The Hemi Tick is after the engine is at operating temperature and sounds just like a tick tick tick at idle. Drive through to get a burger and you will know.
Start up chatter is sometimes confused with the Hemi Tick, goes away within seconds. Only time I've had this is when my truck has sit for days.
Something new is piston slap, mine starts 1:45-2 minutes After startup. Soon as I put it in gear it goes away immediately. This sound is different than all the others, it's a knocking noise. I thought it was oil starvation with the crap Mopar oil filter. I'm still considering that but am leaning towards the piston slap.
This is my experience over the years, hope this helps.
 
iHemiMan

iHemiMan

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HammerHead said:
Not sure what your exact noise is but I'll share with you what I've learned.
Broken manifold bolts sound like a loud clapping noise at morning start up, goes away within a few moments. It's something so profound you will know it.
The Hemi Tick is after the engine is at operating temperature and sounds just like a tick tick tick at idle. Drive through to get a burger and you will know.
Start up chatter is sometimes confused with the Hemi Tick, goes away within seconds. Only time I've had this is when my truck has sit for days.
Something new is piston slap, mine starts 1:45-2 minutes After startup. Soon as I put it in gear it goes away immediately. This sound is different than all the others, it's a knocking noise. I thought it was oil starvation with the crap Mopar oil filter. I'm still considering that but am leaning towards the piston slap.
This is my experience over the years, hope this helps.
Click to expand...

Mine is kinda odd. It sounds like hemi tick all the way through. There’s no delay in it and it’s persistent. It starts right away and I can almost hear it through the cab.


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R.L.K.

R.L.K.

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iHemiMan said:
Thanks fitz maybe I’ll get around to trying this tonight


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Click to expand...
The manifolds warping is the big issue and the bolts stretch prior to breaking . So you may be able to tighten some a bit . If you can tighten some that's just the beginning of the end as the warping is there and the bolts will break eventually .

Let us know your results here [emoji1303]

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iHemiMan

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R.L.K. said:
The manifolds warping is the big issue and the bolts stretch prior to breaking . So you may be able to tighten some a bit . If you can tighten some that's just the beginning of the end as the warping is there and the bolts will break eventually .

Let us know your results here [emoji1303]

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Click to expand...

Will do sir!


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Burla

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SyN said:
Ok: Thank You!
Click to expand...

For Syn, here ya go pal, and thanks again for lighting a fire under my ****. Right is 10 years on 5 year toyota HOAT plus RMI-25, as you see the rmi25 turns it orange (yellow plus red or pink = orange). The middle was second flush, I was pretty happy with how it looked, and I have no doubt a third flush isn't necessary, mind you what is in there now was fresh put back when the coolant looked like the middle jug. So even better then what is in the reddish jug. I'll do another flush in 3 years this time, wink wink.

44133246504_46070e2349_b.jpg
 
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