Bought a 99 2500 V10 Need advice

Well Congrats on your new to you truck! V10's are getting harder to find. I'd imagine that it has the 47RE Long tail if its an auto. Long tail just meaning the overdrive has a long output shaft for the 2wd and no transfer case. The bands do require a pan drop. Not sure how much a shop would charge. i'd guess a few hundred. I changed my coolant over to the green stuff from the parts store. Have had no issues out of it.

the 2500 V10's are pretty solid just a gas hog and that may be an understatement lol. Let us know how that rzr fits I'm hoping its a long bed lol I have towed a 34 ft with the V8 3500 with no issues. no airbags or anything needed. Do recommend a load leveling hitch they help out ALOT.

OP the red letters are hard to read.



I Love my 18 Ram 2500HD 4x4 CC
Blue Streak Pearl off-road

Thanks a bunch for the replies. Yes my truck is a long bed. It came with a nice fiberglass cap so I'll have to remove that when hauling the rzr. ImI sure it will fit because I've done it with my previous long bed truck, a chev c3500. When hauling the rzr or my golf cart, I'll remove the tail gate also. The rzr fits in the bed with all four wheels inside but the rzr still sticks out enough so that the gate won't close. Not a problem. Once I load up, iuse wheel bonnets to hold it inplacei. I haven't done it with the Dodge yet but I'm pretty sure it'll work the same. I'm on my first camping trip with it right now. it's just a short run . I wanted to make sure everything is ok. It is. The brake controller that came with it is a draw-tite and works just fine for me. There are only a few hills on the route from my house but the truck didn't seem to care about them at all. I towed will OD off. No need to beat that up. It's only about 20 miles from home with one small town I have to go through. I reset the trip computer when I left and got 7.9 mpg. It was doing even better befrbe it had to go through the town. That's about what my c3500 would do (454). The 05 1500 qc hemi I had would do maybe 8.5 mpg on the same exact trip. I had the oil changed at the local dodge dealership. The owner is a former student of mine. He's only had it about a year and a half but is doing well. I asked about transmission service. They don't have a tech to do it and he recommended a local transmission shop. I had called about the same service at another dodge shop (also former student) and they said 275.00. I'll try the local transmission shop and see what they say. Ili' definitely get that done before a long trip probably next spring. I'm just very happy to get some replies about this beast. The owner of the Dodge shop complicated me about how solid the truck is as did the tech who did the oil change. I'll post pics of it this week.

had a 99 v-10 2500 quadcablong box 4x4 tili traded itoff for this 14 1500. avg was 9.9 mpg, empty, by roof pc guage not hand calculated. towing it would drop to about 6-7mpg depending on terrain and how hard i drove it. never had an load give me a second consideration,not even 17,000lbs of brick on a trailer. truck simply did not give a ****.
it pulled everything, just fine, even up and down the Ozarks, at 80mph. thinking i had the 3:73 but cant really remember because i never had any issues, it was moot point..

i replaced one fan belt on that v-10, never replaced a plug or plug wire, my mechanic would check it out and say nope waste of time and money,not needed. guy even checked resistance on the wires. had full set, ready to go but never used them.

traded it off acct it needed new dash pad, heater core and was just plain gun shy about teh years,mileage and excellent luck i had been having.wanted better mileage too.did not need a v10 anymore.i do not miss that horrible mileage. if you need a towmobile,i can think of few better.

Do you know what kind of dash skin they used?

I also have a '99 2500 V10. I'm working on getting it back up and running. Just further destroyed the top of the dash while replacing the evap coil.

It's a really nice truck to drive.

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I have a 95 2500 4x4 std cab long bed with the v10. It has pulled everything I have hooked to it. Used to pull a 20' long car hauler with 3 big atvs in it and it didn't even grunt. I tried using the higher octane gas and it made no difference in the mpg. I do have the
Timbren SES overload kit installed and it works great. I can put a 500 gallon tank in the bed and the truck only drops 2".

Band adjustment isn't hard if you want to try and do it yourself. Never owned a V10 but my 360 towed a lot of weight so you didn't have any problem.

I kind of reviving this thread because I've encountered a problem with my v10. It started running rough and missing pretty suddenly. I could hear quite a bit of valve train noise also. I replaced the plugs and plug wires and although it seemed better somewhat, It didn't cure the problem. I took it to a local shop and it turned out to be at least one and maybe two collapsed lifters. I'm gonna have all the lifters replaced since it would be stupid not to replace them all if I am having the engine opened up enough to fix the problem. I'm wondering if any of you have ever had lifter problems with your trucks. I've heard that running a little ATF in the engine oil can unstick a lifter, but I figure that is a temporary fix at best. Any other advice you have will be much appreciated. BTW, the engine oil had less than 2k on it when the problem occurred.

Don Williams a.k.a. Librarian

Don Williams said:

I kind of reviving this thread because I've encountered a problem with my v10. It started running rough and missing pretty suddenly. I could hear quite a bit of valve train noise also. I replaced the plugs and plug wires and although it seemed better somewhat, It didn't cure the problem. I took it to a local shop and it turned out to be at least one and maybe two collapsed lifters. I'm gonna have all the lifters replaced since it would be stupid not to replace them all if I am having the engine opened up enough to fix the problem. I'm wondering if any of you have ever had lifter problems with your trucks. I've heard that running a little ATF in the engine oil can unstick a lifter, but I figure that is a temporary fix at best. Any other advice you have will be much appreciated. BTW, the engine oil had less than 2k on it when the problem occurred.

Don Williams a.k.a. Librarian

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Just wondering, I have always heard that if the lifters or camshaft are to be changed, the whole shebang should be changed as a unit. It seems the lifters wear and the cam wears so putting in new lifters alone wouldn't be "advisable". I am a very amateur backyard mechanic, so now the question: Did it all work out for you by just changing out the lifters? And yes, I know, pulling the cam makes it MUCH bigger job, but if works with just changing lifters without doing the bigger job, it'd be a good thing to add to the data banks, thanks.