ALMOST HAD A WHEEL FALL OFF FOR THE 2ND TIME!!!!

If there's any chance someone can take a picture of how their lugs look against the factory rotor it would help a bunch. They're telling its factory spec'd fit. I don't think so.
Thanks

darn it.
It just crossed my mind that if they make the hat bigger on the rotor it's going to make the wheels stick out that much farther out.
Right now they sit perfect.
It's going to be about a quarter of an inch farther out!
oh well

spdglez78 said:

darn it.
It just crossed my mind that if they make the hat bigger on the rotor it's going to make the wheels stick out that much farther out.
Right now they sit perfect.
It's going to be about a quarter of an inch farther out!
oh well

Click to expand...

Did you ever get this figured out?

I have PowerStops on my truck and haven't had any issues with stock rims. Your very first pic of your rotor looks like the rotor is sitting on there loose. Also, every pic of your studs show them all dinged up, is that from the wheels?

Last update I got from Jegs/powerstop is that they're going to exchange them.
Not ideal as I paid to have them put on.
The lugs are a little beat up since I didn't have the concentric rings installed.
They arrive today.
Don't know when they'll be sending them out.
Should know later today.

spdglez78 said:

Last update I got from Jegs/powerstop is that they're going to exchange them.
Not ideal as I paid to have them put on.
The lugs are a little beat up since I didn't have the concentric rings installed.
They arrive today.
Don't know when they'll be sending them out.
Should know later today.

Click to expand...

I'm confused. Did powerstop admit that there was something wrong with the rotors they sent you? If so, id push to have them compensate you for the work. That's not a little job if you pay someone (ive heard of people charging 2-500 dollars just for labor).

The story from Jegs is that they nor Powerstop pays for labor.
They'll exchange the rotors for me but that's it.
I'm out of luck. So pissed right now.
It's going to cost me another 150 because of their defective product. BS
I don't plan on using either of them ever again.
I'm very tempted to remove both of the kits and start over.
Only problem I have is that powerstop was the cheapest of the ones out there.
All the other ones are going to cost me a couple hundred dollars more as it is.
I'm stuck between a rock and hard place for sure.

spdglez78 said:

The story from Jegs is that they nor Powerstop pays for labor.
They'll exchange the rotors for me but that's it.
I'm out of luck. So pissed right now.
It's going to cost me another 150 because of their defective product. BS
I don't plan on using either of them ever again.
I'm very tempted to remove both of the kits and start over.
Only problem I have is that powerstop was the cheapest of the ones out there.
All the other ones are going to cost me a couple hundred dollars more as it is.
I'm stuck between a rock and hard place for sure.

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I wouldn’t reach out to Jegs at all, all they do is resell a product. Of course they’ll offer a refund. If Power Stop is admitting they sold you a defected product that cost you money, then I’d be pretty relentless. There seems to be a lot of power that comes from leaving reviews on websites and social media. How are you communicating with Jegs and Power Stop? Are you communicating with both of them?

So by reading all of your posts, seems that the rotors are wrong which cause issues but also your aftermarket rim hub centric rings were also incorrect?

I’m just curious by all of this because I did a lot of research, especially on here about brakes. A lot of people put Power Stops on without any issues at all, to include myself. If they are admitting that the rotors they sold you are defective, I’m interested in that because I’d like to inspect mine. If they are just returning them because you are complaining that they aren’t fitting right, that’s a different story.

I mean, if you lost a wheel and they found that a defective product was at fault, they’d be getting sued. I feel that maybe they aren’t 100 percent saying the rotors are defective, just that you are unhappy with them and they are offering to swap them out.


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Didn’t you say you wheels aren’t the proper hub size for the truck’s hub?

That’s your problem not the brakes IMO!

If your wheels are hub centric and the proper size for your trucks hubs than that’s gonna create a wheel that comes loose and you need to fix that

rwhjr said:

Didn’t you say you wheels aren’t the proper hub size for the truck’s hub?

That’s your problem not the brakes IMO!

If your wheels are hub centric and the proper size for your trucks hubs than that’s gonna create a wheel that comes loose and you need to fix that

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Absolutely this!

That’s why I’m asking so many questions, I want to ensure it’s not the brakes. If his wheel studs are holding the weight of the whole truck up and the weight isn’t on the hub, it will cause lugs to come loose, will cause vibration, and will cause studs to break.

I thought when he said the rings were wrong I thought it was case closed, but now he’s returning brakes.


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markusaf81 said:

Absolutely this!

That’s why I’m asking so many questions, I want to ensure it’s not the brakes. If his wheel studs are holding the weight of the whole truck up and the weight isn’t on the hub, it will cause lugs to come loose, will cause vibration, and will cause studs to break.

I thought when he said the rings were wrong I thought it was case closed, but now he’s returning brakes.


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Click to expand...

Yeah it doesn’t make sense

This lugs aren’t “bottoming out”

That stud damage we see in pics is the loose wheel moving around hitting the threads and damaging them because the wheel isn’t staying still on the hub!!!

Get hub adapters or get the right wheels before you swap brakes and have the same damn issue again and lose a wheel on the highway

Are the lugs supposed to be completely firm because I did see them wiggle when they were looking at them at discount the first time?
I know now I need the rings, they're on their way.
The too long of studs is from what we noticed in the attached pictures.
Some gap on the front and none on the rear.
Thanks again guys!

1) The lug studs should not move at all...they are pressed in

2) Lug studs that are 2 long will cause exactly what you are experiencing

3) If the rotor hat is too thin, or the shoulder on the lug nut to big, it can also cause the same problem

4) If the holes in the rotor hat for the studs are too big, and the hole for the hub is too big, the rotor will not be concentric and can cause braking and balance issues

5) Using the wrong seat design lug nuts can also let the rim loosen up and come off

spdglez78 said:

Are the lugs supposed to be completely firm because I did see them wiggle when they were looking at them at discount the first time?
I know now I need the rings, they're on their way.
The too long of studs is from what we noticed in the attached pictures.
Some gap on the front and none on the rear.
Thanks again guys!

Click to expand...

No, the studs should not wiggle. I’ve literally beat studs with a mini sledge to remove them without them budging...so you seeing them wiggle bothers me.

My opinion, I’ve experienced having improper rims and lugs on a vehicle before where I was literally changing and breaking studs weekly. I changed the wheels to the proper ones and never had another issue. If you drove your truck with improper hub rings holding your tires on, I’d replace all the studs, that’s just me. Every pic of your studs you’ve posted they’ve all had damage. I was taught to don’t over-tighten lugs nuts, not install lug nuts with metal shavings on the stud, and be very careful in removing a wheel not to drag it on the studs...once the studs are damaged, they are weak.

Having improper hub centric rings seems to be a common problem with certain vehicles and will give you the symptoms of breaking studs, lugs coming loose, and so forth.

I put the Power Stop rotors on my truck (along with a lot of other members on here), kept the stock studs, but also kept the stock wheels and haven’t had an issue.

Again, my opinion. If you have new rings coming, I’d swap out the rotors regardless since they are replacing them for you. If any studs are loose or damaged, I’d replace them as well.

Good luck and keep us updated


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Also, what Power Stop kit did you get? I think I got the z36? Whatever it was said “tow and truck” upgrade kit or something.


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If you replace the brakes I bet you’ll still have the same issues

You need to do one of the following to prevent this from happening again:

1) get a set of wheels made for your trucks hub assembly

2) get adapters that make the wheels fit your hub

You can replace the brakes but I don’t think that caused your issue.

At this point, though, with the damage caused by improper wheels.....you might as well replace all your wheel studs, your brakes, etc as well.

Since I have these rotors waiting to be installed I'm now a bit nervous !

Question for OP, did you have these brakes installed and then use the stock rims?
Or did you already have the aftermarket rims then installed the brakes?
Curious if the back of factory rim has a small chamfer or something that makes it work??

I gave up just trying to get the rotor off and now it's too damn cold !

Looks like you got the incorrect stud size.

I already had the aftermarket rims when I put the powerstop brakes on.
The only issue I had was some high speed vibration which is now gone after a fourth wheel balance with road force in the last month.
I get the rings tonight and will be checking for looseness of the studs and later in the week the new rotors.
By Friday I should know if the rotor hub is part of the issue.

The back of the factory rim does have a recess if I remember for the the factory retainer clip to clear.

Skyjockey said:

Since I have these rotors waiting to be installed I'm now a bit nervous !

Question for OP, did you have these brakes installed and then use the stock rims?
Or did you already have the aftermarket rims then installed the brakes?
Curious if the back of factory rim has a small chamfer or something that makes it work??

I gave up just trying to get the rotor off and now it's too damn cold !

Click to expand...

The lugs have definitely worked themselves into the rims you can see that in the pictures.
Then the rims we're totally stuck onto the lugs I had to pull super hard and hit side to side to break them loose.
None of the lugs on the passenger side move, both on driver's side have some wobble from side to side.
How worried should I be?
All of the lugs together have play not just one.
None of the threads on the lug nuts have any issues.
The shavings in the previous pictures are from the rims.
The hub rings finally came in and fit perfectly.
I moved a rear wheel to the front and it went on like a glove but if you see it had already been molded by the lugs from being previously in the front.
The angle of the lug nuts seem to fit or match the factory lugs to.
Come Friday hopefully the new rotors will fix the wobble.

First off, when buying wheels, you should always verify if they're acorn bulge(OEM Typically) or 60 degree conical. For the trucks now a days, those are the only two types I've seen. The wheel manufacturer will specify the type of seat and diameter of the lug nut, you just have to get the right threads.

Hub Centric rings are not required if you're properly installing the lug nuts when installing the wheel. Hand tighten them down in a star pattern, then torque them down is a star pattern. I've done this on every truck I've ever owned without an issue. Current truck is a 2014 Ram with 22x12 wheels with 325/50 tires. No hubcentric rings.

If the studs are wiggling independently, you need to replace those studs. In all honesty, those studs all look *****'d, so I'd replace all of the ones that have been affected.

Now the real question becomes, why did the wheel come loose the first time? User error? If so, then your new rotors are the reason you had the wheel falling off issue a second time. If the first time was not due to user error and it was due to the same issue we see here, then putting your OEM rotors back on should solve your issue. Or you could buy 1/4" spacers from autozone for the front and install them to move the wheel away from the base of the stud a little bit.