Best way to pull boattrailer out of a slipway 4WD auto/Lock/low?

Deki said:

Weird. I have the stock transforce ATs and I pull a 9k bumper pull in heavy rain and twice through mud and I haven't spun the tires. Place I go camping is about 7% grade.

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In a 4 page discussion on people having tires slipping while pulling heavy loads on wet surfaces with all different configurations, I'm glad you have zero issues.

Also comparing a 1500 pulling a light trailer with barely any tongue weight compared to a 2500 with a, what 8-900 lb tongue weight, on the same road conditions isn't exactly apples to apples. I don't get any tire slipping when hauling a bed full of gravel or railroad tires in the rain...so theres that.

gofishn said:

4wd actually delivers less power than 2wd but more traction, in limited traction conditions. Even in the worst ramps, completely moss covered, and wet all the way to the top of the ramp, I have never had to use 4wd. Of course, those ramps were so steep, there really was no weight on the front tires anyway. that is the problem with 4wd, in boat launching and recovery. Unless the grade is relatively shallow, there is simply not much weight, on front tires, to really give much starting tractive effort.

Good Tires would serve much better than 4wd, in my opinion.
Just start slow.

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Umm, Huh? So I suppose a 2 wheel drive will climb a steep slippery hill better than a 4 wheel drive because there is not much weight on the front end? I mean the hill / ramp would need to be so steep (Better than 2:1) that there really just isn't any reason to be in that predicament in the first place. Actually I dont think they are legally allowed to make a ramp that steep, and if it was that steep a 2wd certainly wouldnt even set on the slope without someone in it and their foot on the brakes having all 4 wheels locked. The only time the front wheels pulling wouldnt be at least a minimal advantage would be if they were off the ground, well then you have other issues!

gofishn said:

as mentioned, engage parking brake, then place gear selector in park.
Then , and only then, remove foot from brake pedal.

When leaving the ramp, First engage foot brake, then release parking brake, finally, place gear selector into gear and apply gas. Use Hill Assist, if worried about rolling backwards.

4wd actually delivers less power than 2wd but more traction, in limited traction conditions. Even in the worst ramps, completely moss covered, and wet all the way to the top of the ramp, I have never had to use 4wd. Of course, those ramps were so steep, there really was no weight on the front tires anyway. that is the problem with 4wd, in boat launching and recovery. Unless the grade is relatively shallow, there is simply not much weight, on front tires, to really give much starting tractive effort.

Good Tires would serve much better than 4wd, in my opinion.
Just start slow.

Another thing you might want to practice, based upon your pictures, is determining the bare minimum of trailer that must be in the water, for the boat to float off the trailer.
Looks like yours is a roller trailer. Normally, those don;t take any water to launch a boat. Hell, I've seen boats, actually fly off rolller trailers, when all chains and cinch straps have been unhooked from the trailer, while unknowing fools drove backwards, down the ramp, to launch their boats. It's almost always the jerky stops that did it, btw.

Point being, roller trailers want to roll their boats and do not usually need as much water. as other types of trailers.


If you got questions, ask away. language barrier can be a pain and a few of us can barely type tooo.

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My english is good enough I think, so language can't be a real issue

I will keep me to that procedure next time. When launching first parking brake and then put it in Park and vica versa when leaving.

You are def right about how deep the trailer should be. We were in to far. The previous owner never took it out of the water using the ramp. When he put the boat in winter storage he always used the harbour crane to get it out of the water and on to the trailer. He had used the ramp only once or twice.

So since it was my first time I just listened to what he said and stopped when he said stop.
When we were pulling it on the trailer we both realised the trailer was in to deep because the boat didn't really touched on the front and we couldn't secure it propperly with the winch on the trailer.
Once it was on I drove forward for about 1.5 meters and that was much better. We could pull the boat against the winch and secure it.
It will be something I just need to lean doing it over and over again. All depending on how steep/long the hill is.

One difference I see between the usa and europe is that most of us over here always use 4WD auto to drive it around all day in normal conditions on normal roads. I personnaly don't know anybody that uses the 2wd.
As for U guys, most seem to use the 2wd for normal driving, even with trailers.

Although my boat is not as big as yours, when ever I'm at a boat ramp I always use the e-brake and then put the truck in Park. A friend of mine says he had his F150 in Park at the boat ramp (no e-brake) and it mysteriously slid back into the water. Good insurance company covered his repairs but he ultimately traded it in for a new one. As for pulling the boat out, less wear on all moving parts if you put the vehicle in 4wd low range especially if the ramp is a steep one.

ronheater70 said:

Umm, Huh? So I suppose a 2 wheel drive will climb a steep slippery hill better than a 4 wheel drive because there is not much weight on the front end? I mean the hill / ramp would need to be so steep (Better than 2:1) that there really just isn't any reason to be in that predicament in the first place. Actually I dont think they are legally allowed to make a ramp that steep, and if it was that steep a 2wd certainly wouldnt even set on the slope without someone in it and their foot on the brakes having all 4 wheels locked. The only time the front wheels pulling wouldnt be at least a minimal advantage would be if they were off the ground, well then you have other issues!

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Not even going to bother. Take too long to explain and doubt it would be understood, once done.

markusaf81 said:

In a 4 page discussion on people having tires slipping while pulling heavy loads on wet surfaces with all different configurations, I'm glad you have zero issues.

Also comparing a 1500 pulling a light trailer with barely any tongue weight compared to a 2500 with a, what 8-900 lb tongue weight, on the same road conditions isn't exactly apples to apples. I don't get any tire slipping when hauling a bed full of gravel or railroad tires in the rain...so theres that.

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Makes sense. Didn't even think of that.

Deki said:

Makes sense. Didn't even think of that.

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we should trade trucks to see if I have any issues, lol

markusaf81 said:

we should trade trucks to see if I have any issues, lol

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If you were closer I would. I miss my 1500

gofishn said:

Not even going to bother. Take too long to explain and doubt it would be understood, once done.

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4wd does not give you less overall power or torque....it gives you the same power/torque (unless you put it in 4wd low, then the torque increases substantially, but the power would still be the same).

The difference is now 1/2 of the power is going to the front axle, and 1/2 is going to the rear on a normal 4wd vehicle.

On the rams, if you have it in 4 auto or even 4 lock, you will have full power to the rear axle until the front engages, then it will split front to rear.


4wd also does not really give you more traction, you can never have more than the traction provided by 4 tires touching the ground and not spinning/slipping unless you have more than 4 tires.

What it does do is provide power/torque to the front axle so you can use the traction from your front tires as well as the traction from the rears to drive out with, so you can use all available traction, but it does not really give you more.




I have driven a lot of vehicles and towed a lot of trailers/campers/boats, some light in comparison to the towing vehicle, some were several times the weight of the towing vehicle.

Every tow vehicle was 4x4, and the only times I ever felt I needed 4wd was:
1) while turning a 24' gooseneck trailer around in a field covered by 2' of snow
2) when I launched the boat from the muddy bank because the ramp was rutted to bad to launch from without high centering the trailer and the truck
3) the ramp was icy from fishing a tournament in 30 deg weather
4) backing a camper up a steep dirt hill

I have launched & recovered boats where the ramp was so steep, you connected the bow eye to the winch strap, and then drove up the ramp slowly to let the boat sit/settle down onto the trailer. Only used that ramp once, as it was too steep to use safely in my opinion, and there is no way I would attempt to use it if the ramp was wet where the truck sat. It literally was so steep, the boat would start floating off the trailer BEFORE the trailer tires were in the water. If you backed in at a normal speed, you'd put water over the transom of the boat and ruin your day.

BTW, I used 2wd & 1st gear to launch & recover, not 4wd.

Granddad had a big sized saltwater boat (30' or so I think) that we went fishing in every weekend, and he never had 4wd, always a dodge van, or car (usually big plymouth fury's). I don't remember him ever having any real issues with launch & recovery.

Dad never had a 4wd or even truck, and it never stopped him either from going fishing in the boat. He does have an expedition now, since almost all cars are FWD and not rated for towing a boat, but it is still 2wd.

Cardhu said:

You have a BW44-44. This is what it does. "Lock" does not mean it works like a part time system like your 2005. 1000s of posts on it. Lock does engage quicker than auto as the actuator on the Transfer case is energized when active. Still ain't great. Will stay locked as long as your on the power, So if you can navigate it in 4Lo you can stay on the throttle without going "fast" and getting off the gas to unlock. Experiment in some deep snow this winter you'll figure it out, just stay on the gas and not spin. Mediocre solution for a poor transfer case.

Get some all terrain anythings (KO2, Duratracs, whatever) and carry on. I wouldn't put SRAs or HP's or equivalent tread on a wheel barrow.

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Thanks Cardhu, I'll have to search what you ref. Sure does suck that 4WD isn't "4WD" like it used to be.
I rarely use 4-Low, are you saying that would stay locked better in 4-Lo?
The problem I have it that my back yard is ALL "hill", so there really is no way of keeping moving and having full-4WD. The start-up on the hill is nearly impossible to do with even just a little bit of snow on the ground with the way the front and rear axle don't rotate at exactly the same time. The rear slips, then the front slips. If they BOTH started under power at the same time like they used to, it would not be an issue at all... My 2005 didn't even hiccup making the trip. Last winter, I almost had to call a wrecker to get me out of my own yard, let alone the HUGE ruts I left when I finally got free.
Maybe I'll just use my wife's Subaru next time (Oh, it pains me to say that too, but that Subaru does NOT get "stuck").

Reminder to self; newer Dodge trucks suck at off roading. Or, NEVER stop the vehicle where immediate traction will be necessary because all you end up doing is digging holes with all 4 tires; one axle at a time...

LoL.. I love your comment about the Goodyear skins too! Not only do they not last, about the only positive trait they have is they are cheap. I tell people, buy those tires only if you are selling the truck!
LoL...

50BMG said:

I rarely use 4-Low, are you saying that would stay locked better in 4-Lo?

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If your in Lo, you can add throttle. once you slip it will actually put the front axle in play. If you can maintain forward and be on the gas you will stay "locked".

Its not a newer dodge problem, its a fancy transfer case problem. the rebel and the less high end models have the good transfer case BW44-45.

The BW44-44 is pandering to the mob that puts on 4x4 in rain on pavement and believe there is something wrong with a regular 4x4 when it crow hops when making turns at the mall.

Cardhu said:

If your in Lo, you can add throttle. once you slip it will actually put the front axle in play. If you can maintain forward and be on the gas you will stay "locked".

Its not a newer dodge problem, its a fancy transfer case problem. the rebel and the less high end models have the good transfer case BW44-45.

The BW44-44 is pandering to the mob that puts on 4x4 in rain on pavement and believe there is something wrong with a regular 4x4 when it crow hops when making turns at the mall.

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Well, there is...some idiot is using it improperly, in the wrong place, and under the wrong conditions...............

Some of these responses are pretty funny...while I am new to the Ram Cummins Diesel, I have dealt with boats and trucks and towing/launching for over 30yrs. Here are the rules, from my experience (I have never ended up on youtube) :
1. If you have 4x4 use it - the ramp is wet & slippery & you are pulling more than a dry weight boat...think of the water/friction ... LOW is fine, the only issue you have with 4x4's are if they are locked diffs and you turn your wheels on dry/non loose pavement...but all ramps I have ever come out of are straight shots
2. Go slow...because they are slippery as soon as you loose traction you are buggered
3. when setting the truck/tow vehicle up for pull out, first when backing down DO NOT put it in park, and then set handbrake.....the only way to do this and avoid the CLUNK...is to set the trailer up at the right depth in the water for recovery, then put the vehicle in Drive, go forward a smidgen, then set the hand/foot /park brake THEN put it in Park (or leave it in drive) put the boat on the trailer tie it down on the trailer....
4. Drive out in low, low, low gear with little to no skinny pedal - OR AS MUCH AS IS NEEDED to slowly slowly bring the boat out.
5. PAUSE, PAUSE, PAUSE as soon as the boat exits the water, still on the ramp upslope, just wait a minute or two to drain the water out of all orifices of the boat and trailer...one gal of water is like 8lbs...its better and less strain.
6. if your wheels are now out of the water - take it out of low 4wd, or 4wd all together...your vehicle will drive out fine.

Anyway - that's what has enabled me to stay off the Youtube videos

black-betty said:

Some of these responses are pretty funny...while I am new to the Ram Cummins Diesel, I have dealt with boats and trucks and towing/launching for over 30yrs. Here are the rules, from my experience (I have never ended up on youtube) :
1. If you have 4x4 use it - the ramp is wet & slippery & you are pulling more than a dry weight boat...think of the water/friction ... LOW is fine, the only issue you have with 4x4's are if they are locked diffs and you turn your wheels on dry/non loose pavement...but all ramps I have ever come out of are straight shots
2. Go slow...because they are slippery as soon as you loose traction you are buggered
3. when setting the truck/tow vehicle up for pull out, first when backing down DO NOT put it in park, and then set handbrake.....the only way to do this and avoid the CLUNK...is to set the trailer up at the right depth in the water for recovery, then put the vehicle in Drive, go forward a smidgen, then set the hand/foot /park brake THEN put it in Park (or leave it in drive) put the boat on the trailer tie it down on the trailer....
4. Drive out in low, low, low gear with little to no skinny pedal - OR AS MUCH AS IS NEEDED to slowly slowly bring the boat out.
5. PAUSE, PAUSE, PAUSE as soon as the boat exits the water, still on the ramp upslope, just wait a minute or two to drain the water out of all orifices of the boat and trailer...one gal of water is like 8lbs...its better and less strain.
6. if your wheels are now out of the water - take it out of low 4wd, or 4wd all together...your vehicle will drive out fine.

Anyway - that's what has enabled me to stay off the Youtube videos

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Thanks a lot for the advice!!!!

I always put my truck in 4-low. It delivers much more torque and power. Getting going on a slippery steep ramp towing a lot of weight, I want to make sure I have the best traction and power available.

I just want a boat....