Major failure after engine flush or gas Additive. HELP!!

I am leaning towards a venting issue. Like the guy above me said, check vent lines for kinks and loosen the gas cap and go for a drive.

Turn the key to the On position, don't start it. Give it 15 seconds for the lights to come on and settle. You should see the Check Engine Light come on for a few seconds, that will verify that it works.

Turn the key off then on three times, quickly, leave it on, and watch the dash. Depending on the model, you may see some codes on the screen, or the Odometer may show them - it may look lile P-300, or something like that. Write down the code (there may be several). Let us know what you get.

If it were my fat, ugly ass that had this problem...... (crickets)...............

Scottly said:

If it were my fat, ugly ass that had this problem...... (crickets)...............

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buy a 4th gen. The help over there isn't gender biased

shadowhawk said:

buy a 4th gen.

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I did.

Just a dodge girl said:

Well I'm definitely not even close to a mechanic. Just raised by a dad that wanted boys and decided his girls could do just as much as any boy. P.S. We definitely did

Unfortunately I added after the fill up. Directions on bottle. I was skeptical so here we are. I plan on sucking as much gas out as I can today. Then dropping the tank and taking it from there. Never had this problem with seafoam. Had someone pick some up and they didn't come back with seafoam. I can't even be mad at Thema Lou she don't like cheap stuff.

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I've tried to instill the same in my daughter and son, especially my daughter. I wanted her to be self-reliant on the basics with vehicles, zero interest in learning from her unfortunately.

I had something similar happen. Doing searches on here I found a few threads where owners "shotgunned" fixes. I saw one instance where an EGR valve/motor was replaced. Sure enough I had a pending fault for mine. Replaced it and the problem is gone.

Maybe hook up an OBD scanner and see if there are stored or pending faults. Then test fuel delivery, then ignition; work down the list. Hell, it could even be an intermittent problem with the ignition switch.

IF your strap broke on the tank, is it possible you have a bad ground/connection because of this? Maybe a wire got stressed and is breaking a connection?

LoneWolf3574 said:

I've tried to instill the same in my daughter and son, especially my daughter. I wanted her to be self-reliant on the basics with vehicles, zero interest in learning from her unfortunately.

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I had the same reactions from my two Sons.
At least they're not askin' for $$.

The answer you seek is likely spelled out in these 30 posts.
Your job, Find the right one.
I'm old so, I'm leaning toward "you're not gettin' gas".

PS: There are worse things you could have poured in your engine but, Marvel Mystery Oil is just a waste of your money.
1. Get engine hot
2. Drain oil
That's it. No MMO.

1qt of lawn mower injector spring cleaner directly into fuel system 100% concentration. Walmart garden supplies, weed wacker fuels area, premixed. 1qt CAN of injector cleaner by Gumout. The best 4 injector cleaning. I'm getting 27-32mpgs freeway on my 222,000 miles new 2015 Ram 2500 Cummins 10,200lb truck. Oil is clean to 5000 miles then gets black by 10,000 miles!

Sounds like pressure in the gas tank or fuel loss. I had a vent issue on my turbo'd firebird due to pressure in the tank. It takes about 10-15min to act up and build pressure as fuel vapor expands in the tank after getting heated up and sloshed around. Pressure or too much vacuum in the tank makes the pump work harder. When it dies again, get out and open the gas cap and listen... should be a Whoosh or a pissssss (pressure or vacuum). But its also not easy to clog the 100micron sock filter in the tank. My guess is something got dislodged from the tank dropping and then you fixing it moved it around. Something could have clogged the sock or got past and is in the fuel injector baskets in the injectors (finer screen filter and easy to clog).

My tuning experience if everything above is good is your DECEL/idle airflow/fuel related. These trucks (not sure about yours) has a DBW TB so no IAC... Idle airflow is adjusted via the PCM by adjusting the TB blade for commanded idle RPM. Coming to a stop on decel and a surge/stumble I Would be looking at AFR's and IAC counts or Idle airflow tables. Also in a hell marry attempt you should be verifying all sensor data (MAP, O2s, ECT yadda yadda).

Need more data to narrow it down. If there are codes you def need to read them.

FWIW best injector cleaner Ive found is the Chevy Techron. I have marvel mystery oil but I wont use it in my cars/trucks... thats for the tractor and mowers and snow blowers.

cash4acres said:

1qt of lawn mower injector spring cleaner directly into fuel system 100% concentration. Walmart garden supplies, weed wacker fuels area, premixed. 1qt CAN of injector cleaner by Gumout. The best 4 injector cleaning. I'm getting 27-32mpgs freeway on my 222,000 miles new 2015 Ram 2500 Cummins 10,200lb truck. Oil is clean to 5000 miles then gets black by 10,000 miles!

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She doesn't have a Diesel! Also your oil should be getting black (before 5k)... thats the detergents pulling the carbon and soot out of the block (aka cleaning as you drive). Dark oil doesn't necessarily mean bad oil, just means dirty block (Diesel) and good detergents.

I didn't read every post but I've seen sporadic sputter from a clogged catalytic converter too.

Maybe a fuel pump? I can't see marvel or seafoam (I've used both) knocking that much of anything loose on there own so that it clogs something but I guess anything is possible. Good point about the tank dropping and maybe knocking something loose though...

Also maybe a loose ground somewhere... alternator could be dying... lots of reasons but sounds fuel related.

Just a dodge girl said:

I added 6 oz to a completely full tank. It will start right up. Drive down the road but at stop shuts off and doesn't want to start back up for a second. I have also changed throttle body and sensor about a year ago do to the dying. Along with IAC and nothing helped it. Dying never created a problem till now. Its different now. Something I used has created an issue and at this point it I believe fuel is the start

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sounds like a fuel delivery issue for sure. possible when you start it the pump pressurized enough to get you going but not enough to keep up with the needs of the engine while driving

Throttle body needs cleaned. Happens to every Ram I own lol

Just a dodge girl said:

Lol yes I did myself. I don't let many "mechanics" work on my dodge if they don't own one themselves

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Extremely proud of you. Keep up the good work.

This is likely way out in left field, but a I had an issue once after servicing my K&N air filter on a different vehicle. Oil from the filter got n the MAF sensor and caused rough running. I cleaned it off with the special MAF spray and the problem went away. You didn’t mention anything about working on an air filter, but this is just in case you did.

I like the show "Live, Love and Wrench" on the car channel and I tell my wife all the time how cool it would be if she'd come turn some wrenches with me, but she said no because it'd mess up her manicure. lol