Royal Purple Oil Filter?

I think Burla posted a VOA (or UOA) of the Redline Pro series and it shows the things our Hemi likes (Moly, etc) are at levels of most other common oils (PP, PUP, etc) which is probably how it got API certified. But at that point its not much different than cheaper, easier to get stuff.

Also not sure how different the API certified Amsoil products are, compared to PUP, PP, etc.

Go big or go home - use Redline

Satisfy the man - just get PUP, PP or even PYB.

kkreit01 said:

Redline is not recommended either. Well, it's "recommended" by Redline, but not FCA/Chrysler.

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Haha I knew that was coming. Set myself up for that one.


So I just called Red Line and they said that Pro Series is Group 3 and High Performance is Group 4/5. Are the “groups” really detectable? If I were to have engine issues would they be able to tell the difference between the two different oils?

Group 4/5 seems to be for really cold or really hot conditions I’m thinkin, so maybe the jump to Pro Series Group 3 would be identical to High Performance Series Group 4/5 based on the way I drive and where I live. That’s my logic and if that’s the case might go to that next time then.

I’m also under the lifetime warranty and never would wanna jeopardize that, but if this oil is as good as its hyped up to be, shouldn’t ever really have to bring the oil even in to question. From my experience so far I’ve noticed the effects instantly and am in love and won’t switch to anything else.

I do wonder if there’s noticeable difference we can detect if we switched to Pro Series. Wonder if the tick would come back? Haven’t heard any talk in regards to Pro Series.

NY Andrew said:

Haha I knew that was coming. Set myself up for that one.


So I just called Red Line and they said that Pro Series is Group 3 and High Performance is Group 4/5. Are the “groups” really detectable? If I were to have engine issues would they be able to tell the difference between the two different oils?

Group 4/5 seems to be for really cold or really hot conditions I’m thinkin, so maybe the jump to Pro Series Group 3 would be identical to High Performance Series Group 4/5 based on the way I drive and where I live. That’s my logic and if that’s the case might go to that next time then.

I’m also under the lifetime warranty and never would wanna jeopardize that, but if this oil is as good as its hyped up to be, shouldn’t ever really have to bring the oil even in to question. From my experience so far I’ve noticed the effects instantly and am in love and won’t switch to anything else.

I do wonder if there’s noticeable difference we can detect if we switched to Pro Series. Wonder if the tick would come back? Haven’t heard any talk in regards to Pro Series.

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Here’s the thing; if that Redline oil- even the stuff that’s not API certified, and in the 30 weight that most everyone around here who uses Redline uses, is just that good, then the chances of you having any kind of oil-related problem is probably going to be very slim to none.

But here’s the problem; you’re gonna have to keep detailed records and receipts of your oil changes and of the products you use. As far as whether or not having a stack of used oil analysis reports in your corner will help you in the event something catastrophic happens, I dunno but, you’re probly gonna put yourself in a pickle if they know what you’ve been using. They don’t wanna pay for your claim. They’re probably gonna try to find any possible reason they can to weasel out of it.

Engine failures can happen at any time for any reason. They’re most likely gonna blame the oil, in this case. Thankfully, we have laws set to protect us, making manufacturers required to prove that your oil was the problem and, even if you stood a great chance at winning your case in a courtroom, you need to be aware of that because that’s what it’s most likely gonna come down to.

The other thing you need to keep in mind- once your factory warranty is completely gone and your MVP (MaxCare) warranty takes over, it’s strictly written in the contract that manufacturer recommendations need to be followed. And yes, as it’s been discussed, no where in that book does it say were required to run a 5w20, API certified, Chrysler spec oil, but does say they need to be followed. It says recommended- which is not the same as required but still, the warranty contract is saying what you have to do. Only Mopar parts must be used.

That’s up to you to take as you wish and if it all came down to it, hopefully you get a good lawyer that’s able to help you give the big[emoji1596]to FCA and make em fix your truck for the warranty that I know you probably paid a great deal for.


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I have no doubt that Red Line is excellent oil. I may run it once my warranty is up. I just like to use certified oil as long as I have a powertrain warranty. I too may have to fight if I had an engine failure. I do my own oil changes, but save receipts and document mileage, date, etc. To Chrysler, receipts and a spreadsheet may mean nothing (as proof).

kkreit01 said:

I have no doubt that Red Line is excellent oil. I may run it once my warranty is up. I just like to use certified oil as long as I have a powertrain warranty. I too may have to fight if I had an engine failure. I do my own oil changes, but save receipts and document mileage, date, etc. To Chrysler, receipts and a spreadsheet may mean nothing (as proof).

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I have no doubt either. A bunch of people use it. It’s highly popular.

Sadly, we may already be screwing ourselves up by not paying the dealer to do it. I hope not. I refuse to pay someone to do my oil changes.


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NY Andrew said:

Haha I knew that was coming. Set myself up for that one.


So I just called Red Line and they said that Pro Series is Group 3 and High Performance is Group 4/5. Are the “groups” really detectable? If I were to have engine issues would they be able to tell the difference between the two different oils?

Group 4/5 seems to be for really cold or really hot conditions I’m thinkin, so maybe the jump to Pro Series Group 3 would be identical to High Performance Series Group 4/5 based on the way I drive and where I live. That’s my logic and if that’s the case might go to that next time then.

I’m also under the lifetime warranty and never would wanna jeopardize that, but if this oil is as good as its hyped up to be, shouldn’t ever really have to bring the oil even in to question. From my experience so far I’ve noticed the effects instantly and am in love and won’t switch to anything else.

I do wonder if there’s noticeable difference we can detect if we switched to Pro Series. Wonder if the tick would come back? Haven’t heard any talk in regards to Pro Series.

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I wouldn't even use pro series personally, no moly and is likely relabled CP product, as they bought redline. I don't have an issue with making a lesser oil then your high end stuff, but that product you are just paying more for something you could get much cheaper in another bottle, or even use something like m1 that would be even cheaper and likely give you better performance. Not only that but you only brought up base oil, but the zddp and moly levels are something to consider in the hemi. It takes some time before we get all the info on something fairly new, and their pro series is still evolving, but I'd either run high performance or something else. Their high performance oil has more benefits then just hot and cold, the plating effect of the film strength is real, everyone experiences the wow the engine is smooth thing. You guys who are warranty worry monsters, just run what fca tells you to and be done with it. It hardly matters with the 20 weights they require, they are all similar, all have a viscosity right near each other, all have low additives to get api sn, so just run ms6395 oil you can get cheap. It's freedom, you don't even have to put energy into discussing it.

Burla said:

You guys who are warranty worry monsters, just run what fca tells you to and be done with it. It hardly matters with the 20 weights they require, they are all similar, all have a viscosity right near each other, all have low additives to get api sn, so just run ms6395 oil you can get cheap. It's freedom, you don't even have to put energy into discussing it.

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Monsters??....lol.

I wanna run the best I can but not jeopardize anything. Sure, if I felt as confident as some, I’d just take my chances and just run whatever I want.




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Corn, the hole thing was a play off a commercial, worry monster commercial.

Pull Ya said:

The Royal Purple 10-48 is the correct filter. I have my tires rotated every 5k. Just seems to work better for me and the tires. I don't know about where your at but here in Tx we have Discount Tire and they have a package you can get when you purchase tires from them, that they will rotate and balance your tires every 5k for as long as you have them. You might look for a tire dealer like that locally to you.
Jay

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Our local Discount Tire rotates for free

hi guys put it this way is my truck and i run red line oil 5w30 oil even when the warranty was in full force and have not had any issues no thick engine runs good no funny noises what else can i ask for i hope to hit 100 or 200k on this baby by the way i use Royal purple oil filters and and drop the oil every 6 months no regards to miles driven my 222222 cents

Just grabbed 7 new quarts of 5w30 redline tonight. Ran it a bit longer than I like because of a 900 mile trip to go buy a shell this weekend and i didnt have time to change it prior. So I hit 9,800. I usually change at 8k. Have a Blackstone kit I wanna do but trying to decide if I'm too lazy

bchap05 said:

Just grabbed 7 new quarts of 5w30 redline tonight. Ran it a bit longer than I like because of a 900 mile trip to go buy a shell this weekend and i didnt have time to change it prior. So I hit 9,800. I usually change at 8k. Have a Blackstone kit I wanna do but trying to decide if I'm too lazy

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It is a voluntary type of thing bchaperz, no pressure, but that would be a good uoa to gauge, if you do go for it, I'd say get tbn for sure.

Burla said:

It is a voluntary type of thing bchaperz, no pressure, but that would be a good uoa to gauge, if you do go for it, I'd say get tbn for sure.

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Doesn't seem too hard. Mainly changing the oil while it's hot sucks haha. I the tbn just an add on price wise?

I've never done one. This will be the 3rd oil change always with redline 5w30. I tried to find a rp filter but nobody had them so I went with Fram ultra

You don't have to change the oil hot, I never have. Just let the engine cool a bit after a short trip. tbn is like 10 bucks, you need it to see the interval, w/o it there is no way to set mileage interval.

Burla said:

You don't have to change the oil hot, I never have. Just let the engine cool a bit after a short trip. tbn is like 10 bucks, you need it to see the interval, w/o it there is no way to set mileage interval.

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Super interesting. Wasn’t aware of TBN!! Question though, assuming TBN is based off mileage. If the vehicle isn’t driven and not much mileage is put on it, would TBN change if it’s sitting or only when adding mileage?

NY Andrew said:

Super interesting. Wasn’t aware of TBN!! Question though, assuming TBN is based off mileage. If the vehicle isn’t driven and not much mileage is put on it, would TBN change if it’s sitting or only when adding mileage?

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Probably more like mileage...the protection doesn't just dry up and disappear while it's sitting; it'll go away with use. If you're using a top tier oil (I run QSUD 5W-30), it'll last a long time. In my last UOA, Blackstone told me to try 11.5K OCIs! I won't go quite that far (10K will be fine for how I run the Reb), but it's nice to know my TBN figures support that distance.

TXCOMT

NY Andrew said:

Super interesting. Wasn’t aware of TBN!! Question though, assuming TBN is based off mileage. If the vehicle isn’t driven and not much mileage is put on it, would TBN change if it’s sitting or only when adding mileage?

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So my truck just gets used for work on country property, doesn't see a lot of miles. After one year my uoa on redline 5w30 showed tbn 6, so I expanded that to a two year interval, and it was 3, 5k miles and 10k miles perpectively. Anything above two is safe and a good time to change the oil. That is a good sign, but to complicate **** further there is another test called TAN, that let's you know the acid number, if the acid number is high yes if it sits the tbn will likely come down, that test is you guessed it ten bucks. From back in high school chem..

tbn- total base number *calcium/mag that hasn't been denatured by acid*
tan- total acid number

After all that I just set my interval at a year and a half, because I can't see going 2 years w/o changing oil. For long intervals to work, you need spun microglass filters period end of story. As I tested the oil in the long run, I also tested filters, read my oil filter thread. Even at two years the filter was like new, pliable and filtering.

Beautiful!! Thanks! Haha adding TAN to the list as well. Where’s your filter thread at? RP is rated for long term so I would like to assume you could probably get away with over a year on a RP possibly two; wondering if you’ve tried that. As far as changing oil every 2+ years the thought scares me, but I guess that’s because we were conditioned to change every 3k miles. Factory machines and farm equipment go very long before oil changes so the same logic probably applies to today’s vehicles. Super interesting stuff! Had a feeling numbers would change as it sits as well.

NY Andrew said:

Beautiful!! Thanks! Haha adding TAN to the list as well. Where’s your filter thread at? RP is rated for long term so I would like to assume you could probably get away with over a year on a RP possibly two; wondering if you’ve tried that. As far as changing oil every 2+ years the thought scares me, but I guess that’s because we were conditioned to change every 3k miles. Factory machines and farm equipment go very long before oil changes so the same logic probably applies to today’s vehicles. Super interesting stuff! Had a feeling numbers would change as it sits as well.

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look in my sig


Yes I cut open my oil filters as many of us do, documented in syn thread, I wont hold it against you for not reading that, I couldn't find those posts if I tried. I cut RP filters at 2 year mark, still like new. Operating temp of oil cant degrade the spun microglass, but regular paper filters get stiff and useless somewhere around 3 mos. Not only that, but as you see in oil filter thread spun microglass also catches more contamination and it flows better, trimple whamey. RP filters can still be bought, last I lookded amazon has 8, and RP direct says they will continue to sell. 20-820 fits all 4 gens, the bigger filter. If you cant find that, look for 10-48 will also fit all 4 gens, just smaller.

amazon 20-820 14.99 at amazon, snooze and loose.