slim chance
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when i load my utility trl i center the load to get the trailer to carry the weight and reduce tongue weight
Can this truck with 3.92 rear tow 8k - 9k lbs safely
- Thread starter GOATram
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QwikKota
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Jus Cruisin
Gearhead
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A Chevy.. ...
1969 Camaro SS, 502 ci , 700r4
1969 Camaro SS, 502 ci , 700r4
QwikKota
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Elkman
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The limiting factor for a tow vehicle is the frame, suspension, brakes, drive train, engine, and wheels and tires. In terms of payload this number is calculated at the factory based on how the truck is configured. If it has a crew cab it allows for 150 lb passengers in all seats.
When buying my last truck I noticed different payload ratings for otherwise identical trucks and the difference was with the wheels and tires. My truck came from the factory with tires rated for 3195@80 PSI and I swapped them out for ones rated at 3750@80 PSI and gained 1400 lbs or payload capacity.
My truck has a AAM rear axle and wheel bearings that are rated for 11,000 lbs and the truck itself has a GVWR of 11,000 lbs. so the gap is from all the other aspects of the truck's engineering. My truck at the rear wheels weighs 3400 lbs and the payload depends on the support by the leaf springs. The factory springs provided for a payload of 1800 lbs and adding SuperSprings took them up to 4,000 lbs at the rear axle.
With 4000 lbs in the bed there is no sag and the truck bed is level. The SuperSprings provided the same additional load bearing capacity as the second set of leaf springs on a 3500 truck.
Having towed a 13,000 lb trailer in the high sierras over 8,000 foot passes and up and down 8 percent grades, I wanted the diesel for both torque and its exhaust braking. Without them it would have been a white knuckle experience. My truck is rated to tow up o 17,300 lbs but I would not want that amount of weight behind me and having no reserve capacity.
With the smaller trucks and SUV's there are many more lighter weight trailers available today than there were 10 years ago. Not particularly new but the Hi Lo type trailers that extend up the way an Alaskan slide in camper would is a good way to reduce the air drag dramatically.
https://www.smartrvguide.com/rvs-for-sale/towlite
When buying my last truck I noticed different payload ratings for otherwise identical trucks and the difference was with the wheels and tires. My truck came from the factory with tires rated for 3195@80 PSI and I swapped them out for ones rated at 3750@80 PSI and gained 1400 lbs or payload capacity.
My truck has a AAM rear axle and wheel bearings that are rated for 11,000 lbs and the truck itself has a GVWR of 11,000 lbs. so the gap is from all the other aspects of the truck's engineering. My truck at the rear wheels weighs 3400 lbs and the payload depends on the support by the leaf springs. The factory springs provided for a payload of 1800 lbs and adding SuperSprings took them up to 4,000 lbs at the rear axle.
With 4000 lbs in the bed there is no sag and the truck bed is level. The SuperSprings provided the same additional load bearing capacity as the second set of leaf springs on a 3500 truck.
Having towed a 13,000 lb trailer in the high sierras over 8,000 foot passes and up and down 8 percent grades, I wanted the diesel for both torque and its exhaust braking. Without them it would have been a white knuckle experience. My truck is rated to tow up o 17,300 lbs but I would not want that amount of weight behind me and having no reserve capacity.
With the smaller trucks and SUV's there are many more lighter weight trailers available today than there were 10 years ago. Not particularly new but the Hi Lo type trailers that extend up the way an Alaskan slide in camper would is a good way to reduce the air drag dramatically.
https://www.smartrvguide.com/rvs-for-sale/towlite
dRAMbuie
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Is this a one time deal or a daily event, or something in between? That could completely change my opinion below.
My general philosophy has always been to not exceed 80% of rated capacity. Even then I would always aim to stay well below 10k with a half ton. Personal comfort zone.
You don't mention gear ratio, but I would definitely be more comfortable with 3:92's towing that kind of weight in the mountains. Though 3:21's should still be fine, albeit it a bit slower moving going up those steeper grades.
Trailer brakes/brake controller are a must of course, but I'm assuming you're already aware of that.
I'm also assuming the weight you indicated is total loaded trailer weight, and not dry weight.
I would highly recommend a weight distribution hitch. It's a must have in that weight range as far as I'm concerned. Especially in mountain conditions.
The way your trailer reacts to bumps, wind, and other aspects of travel is greatly affected by weight distribution.
I'm not as familiar with the 5th Gen, but on the 4th Gen the eco diesel has a significantly lower tow rating than the Hemi.
My opinion on the eco is that it's a good choice for fuel economy, and not for much else.
They also tend to have a lower reliability rating than the Hemi.
My opinion on the eco is that it's a good choice for fuel economy, and not for much else.
They also tend to have a lower reliability rating than the Hemi.
As Elkman mentioned, you also want to be aware of your payload rating.
I do not know what it is on the truck you're looking at, but you often don't have a lot of room once you load up the truck with people, pets, and gear.
Keep in mind that a properly balanced bumper pull trailer should have a tongue weight of 10%-15% of total trailer weight.
That means you're using 900lbs+ out of your available payload, which doesn't leave you much room.
Though that impact is reduced to a certain extent by your weight distribution hitch.
*Edited
I realized I made an error in my original post. Updated tongue weight percentage.
Last edited:
Corey J Surette
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I am pulling 8k lbs 750 hitch weight. I installed airlift 5000 and a wireless remote compressor. No sag and plenty of power. I had no trouble getting up to 70 and holding it. A little sway until i got my bag psi just right
QwikKota
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Excellent post full of great info. Tongue weight and the level of the truck/trailer is very important. My weight distributing hitch with sway control takes a lot of stress off of towing. Rear helper air bags in the coils fixes the rest. I did not have good luck with the Timbren bump stop replacement route. Harsh ride and hard impacts on big dips.
OMW2SKI
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I'm with some of the others... It depends on WHAT you're towing. Personally, I think a 9,000 lb Travel Trailer is too much for a 1/2 ton, especially if you are towing in the mountains or in an area with any amount of wind. I have an '18 1500 5.7 Crew Cab with 3.92 gears. I upgraded to LT tires and added a Hellwig sway bar & Airlift 1000HD bags. Our TT's GVWR is 7,000 lbs and it is 24 feet long. With a properly adjusted WD hitch, this setup tows great. But, at times, I feel like it does test the limits of my truck. If I were going to tow a 9,000 lb TT, I would definitely bump up to a HD truck. That's gonna be a long trailer. 9,000 lbs of bricks or sod or something similar on a flat trailer is a different story. Towing flat at sea level is different than towing in the mountains of Utah or Colorado. All that has to be taken into consideration. Also, the Laramie package likely has a rather low payload number. At 12% tongue weight, you've already eaten up 1,080 lbs of the available payload capacity. That doesn't leave much for passengers and other cargo. Honestly, if I had to do it over again, even with my small 24 foot 7,000 lb TT, I would have purchased an HD. Would never worry about loading, etc. and would be future proofed. The new HD's get the 6.4 AND 8-speed. That's an awesome combo!
Elkman
Senior Member
Read the forum posts regarding towing with the Ecoboost engines and you will find owners who have suddenly had the truck come to a complete stop and the engine shutting down. What is reported is sudden "throttle body" failure.
Often this put the vehicle into limp mode which puts the occupants in danger. Last thing I want is engine problems when towing a trailer.
After researching all the problems with Ford F-150 trucks I took them off my search list for a new truck.
https://raybuck.com/common-ford-truck-issues/
Ram ecodiesel is not something I would buy for towing either.
https://**************/fca-stockpiling-2018-ram-1500-ecodiesels/
https://www.allpar.com/forums/threads/ecodiesel-engine-failures-anecdotal-and-reviews.171433/
Often this put the vehicle into limp mode which puts the occupants in danger. Last thing I want is engine problems when towing a trailer.
After researching all the problems with Ford F-150 trucks I took them off my search list for a new truck.
https://raybuck.com/common-ford-truck-issues/
Ram ecodiesel is not something I would buy for towing either.
https://**************/fca-stockpiling-2018-ram-1500-ecodiesels/
https://www.allpar.com/forums/threads/ecodiesel-engine-failures-anecdotal-and-reviews.171433/
Last edited:
dhay13
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I have had 2 F150s, 2 F250's, and a Ford Windstar. The Windstar was bought brand new (1996), and 3 of the 4 trucks were bought with about 20,000 miles on them.
1990 F150 (had the 302 engine rebuilt at 45,000 miles due to 9 MPG and a quart of oil every 800 miles. They looked at the rear gears too and found the lash was set incorrectly and said they re-set it. I mentioned that once a pattern is worn you can't change them. He said that's all Ford would cover under warranty and his advice was to get rid of the truck before the warranty was up
1992 F150. 302. not much trouble with this truck
1991 F250 351. Not much trouble with this truck
1994 F250 460. 4WD quit working a week after I bought it due to Ford using plastic hub gears. it wouldn't start if it sat more than 2 days. dealer looked at it several times and an auto electrical specialty shop looked at it. nothing found. stereo quit working too. took it to Nags Head from Pittsburgh and used 6 quarts of oil down and back. Had 40,000 miles on it.
1996 Winsstar. blew head gasket at 70,000 miles. they recalled up to 1995 but not 1996 and the problem continued. Called Ford and the attitude I got was pretty unprofessional. basically told me oh well, its your problem.
After all that no more Fords for me EVER. sold the last one about 2004 (1994 F250)
1990 F150 (had the 302 engine rebuilt at 45,000 miles due to 9 MPG and a quart of oil every 800 miles. They looked at the rear gears too and found the lash was set incorrectly and said they re-set it. I mentioned that once a pattern is worn you can't change them. He said that's all Ford would cover under warranty and his advice was to get rid of the truck before the warranty was up
1992 F150. 302. not much trouble with this truck
1991 F250 351. Not much trouble with this truck
1994 F250 460. 4WD quit working a week after I bought it due to Ford using plastic hub gears. it wouldn't start if it sat more than 2 days. dealer looked at it several times and an auto electrical specialty shop looked at it. nothing found. stereo quit working too. took it to Nags Head from Pittsburgh and used 6 quarts of oil down and back. Had 40,000 miles on it.
1996 Winsstar. blew head gasket at 70,000 miles. they recalled up to 1995 but not 1996 and the problem continued. Called Ford and the attitude I got was pretty unprofessional. basically told me oh well, its your problem.
After all that no more Fords for me EVER. sold the last one about 2004 (1994 F250)
badlandsbighorn
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badlandsbighorn
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ok, thanks for the input. I'm thinking the same thing...I guess I need to read the owners manual
the limiting factor on these ram trucks is the cargo capacity of models like my laramie is so low. the hemi pulls good altho pulling my 6000# 28' travel trailer at highway speed on anything but a mostly flat road will keep the motor reving. I pull around 70 and I see 4000 rpms often on moderate grades. at that speed I get 8.5-10 mpg. the problem for me when towing is the 1324# cargo capacity. after 600# for trailer and 265# for gas, not much capacity left for me and wife and gear.
