Anyone try Modifystreet headlights?

SitKneelBend said:

Still a little off but much better. The Katana lows are great and the converted Hikari Ultras are great in the highs.

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Which what did you index your LEDs? 12/6 or 3/9 o'clock for the high and low beams(if different)?

Mpgrimm2 said:

Which bulbs come stock in both versions for highs and lows?

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H7 halogen bulbs come with the Modifystreet headlights

After 3 plus months having these lights, and 2 plus months with the Katana leds, love these. The katana went in in minutes, output is great. Zero fog issues in lights and we get lots of rain, no fog after car wash etc. Only issue I had, one led side marker was dangling inside the housing when I went to put in the Katana, I tried to line it up, then put clear silicone around it to keep it from moving again. The left blinker at times throws a light out, but still works and eventually with add leds using alpha odb.

Mpgrimm2 said:

Question: will either the Hikari Ultras or the katanas fit as a direct swap without mods into the high and low beam as purchased?

M² Mods.

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I see others have answered but I think I see you are slightly confused by my wording without the earlier context.

If you are purchasing the bulbs new you will order H7 bulbs for the highs and lows. My comment on the "modified Hikari Ultra" was because I used H7 adapter base ring to make my 9006 Hikari Ultra bulbs work in these without buying a whole new set. The adapted bulbs worked well in the highs but not the lows.

I believe the Hikari Ultras if purchased with their original trim ring would work very well comparable to the katanas but at a "whiter" temperature (6000K) instead of the Katana's slightly bluer temperature (6500K). You can see the temperature/color difference pretty well in this photo...

Hikari top/Katana: bottom

I originally had the Ultra bulbs in my lows using a set of the cheaper Hikari's new H7 trim ring design and they worked very well. The only reason I didn't get the Ultra over the Katana was cost and curiosity. I'm very pleased with the Katanas though...

So, no mods needed if bought new and the maker of these headlights added a super useful third access port below the headlight access ports to allow you to tuck away loads of adapters and wires relatively easily.

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crash68 said:

Which what did you index your LEDs? 12/6 or 3/9 o'clock for the high and low beams(if different)?



H7 halogen bulbs come with the Modifystreet headlights

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The easiest way to describe the index I use us the cable/wire position of the bulb. That being said, in the referenced picture both the Hikari Ultras in the highs and the Katanas in the lows are clicked with the plug wire in the base at the 6 o'clock position.

Both will also work well in the 12 o'clock position but I felt they were better at 6. I think it's because both sets of bulbs are slightly thinner along one edge.

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I ran the Hikari ultra led's for a few months, I happen to get them on sale on Amazon for $70. I would easily compare them to the 55w innovative hid's I tried. I feel the katanas are brighter and have a whiter tint to them.


2018 2500 6.4L

crash68 said:

Which what did you index your LEDs? 12/6 or 3/9 o'clock for the high and low beams(if different)?



H7 halogen bulbs come with the Modifystreet headlights

Click to expand...

I can't say for the high beams but with the low's I ran both the Hikaris and katanas at the 12/6 position. I don't remember how that equates to where the wiring ends up. But brands can be adjusted when the bulbs are installed. I took a marker and marked the fan where 12 o'clock was so when I went to seat the led's I knew which way I needed to clock them


2018 2500 6.4L

1500ram12 said:

I can't say for the high beams but with the low's I ran both the Hikaris and katanas at the 12/6 position. I don't remember how that equates to where the wiring ends up. But brands can be adjusted when the bulbs are installed. I took a marker and marked the fan where 12 o'clock was so when I went to seat the led's I knew which way I needed to clock them


2018 2500 6.4L

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So I don't use that description because the manufacturers would call your 12/6 position the 3/9 position! They go off which way the bulbs face...

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SitKneelBend said:

So I don't use that description because the manufacturers would call your 12/6 position the 3/9 position! They go off which way the bulbs face...

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So I run mine like pic one. When others have said 12/6 that's how I under stood it. Maybe the manufacturer's want pic 2. I don't notice any issue with the beam pattern when installed like pic one. The only thing it might do is give you a wider beam pattern (left/right) which works for me since my drive home is a night and I live in the country and the deer love to be on my road

12/6


3/9



2018 2500 6.4L

1500ram12 said:

So I run mine like pic one. When others have said 12/6 that's how I under stood it.

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I probably should have qualified what I meant by the 12/6 or 3/9 o'clock indexing. In relation to looking at the headlight assembly when it's install in the truck, do the LED chips face the 12/6 positions (up/down) or 3/9 (left /right). This was how it was explained to me when I put the LEDs in my Quad high beams.

crash68 said:

I probably should have qualified what I meant by the 12/6 or 3/9 o'clock indexing. In relation to looking at the headlight assembly when it's install in the truck, do the LED chips face the 12/6 positions (up/down) or 3/9 (left /right). This was how it was explained to me when I put the LEDs in my Quad high beams.

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I've been running mine with the led's facing left/right. I haven't tried up/down to see if it makes any difference


2018 2500 6.4L

1500ram12 said:

I've been running mine with the led's facing left/right. I haven't tried up/down to see if it makes any difference


2018 2500 6.4L

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Regardless of how one describes it the way you have it oriented is correct!

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SitKneelBend said:

More information, this is actually another adjustment (see pictures). It can be screwed in and out to correct alignment issues. Sometimes, it gets unscrewed as you screw in the lower headlight bolt...



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I actually just pulled my grill off and mine were way up on one side and half way down on the other.

On a side note anyone know what clips are in the grill to hold it on. Mine are getting a little worn out from taking the grill on and off


—2018 Ram 1500—

Lawsuit11 said:

I actually just pulled my grill off and mine were way up on one side and half way down on the other.

On a side note anyone know what clips are in the grill to hold it on. Mine are getting a little worn out from taking the grill on and off


—2018 Ram 1500—

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Should be 68213168AA

SitKneelBend said:

Should be 68213168AA

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Yeah I just got the same PN. Thanks!


—2018 Ram 1500—

I don't even remember what position I did the katana low beams, but turned out perfect. Odd I never got a issue and my truck came with the quad lights, no led flicker or lights out message from the katanas. I put Oedro led in fog lights and they are excellent, also I didn't get any errors or flicker and the Oedro leds are under $30, almost exact same k as the katanas and zero light scatter. Perfect pattern, even better than halogen that were in there and appear as bright as the katanas or really close. Really lights up the road about 20 feet out then the katanas light up farther, turned out better than expected. I did find some katana fog light bulb size leds, bought at same time as the Oedro, but like the Oedro so much, I am leaving them in, will use the katana fog light size in another car. Pretty sure the katanas are same led HR sells for like 3-4x more. I found other brands with the katana type leds, when I bought the katana fog lights, Amazon sent me some G8 brand bulbs, exact same as the katanas but sell for $100. I got them for $22 open box.

So I'm not sure if this has been tried but has anyone used Alfa OBD to activate the DRLs without using the supplied fuse tap? Essentially what I'm wondering is can I set the DRL to use the turn signal circuit so just the upper and lower white bars turn on (and the LED bar running light in my tails).

I figured I'd ask here first since this is rather specific to how this headlight responds...

And I've already added the directions from @1500ram12 's Google drive to my own!

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SitKneelBend said:

So I'm not sure if this has been tried but has anyone used Alfa OBD to activate the DRLs without using the supplied fuse tap? Essentially what I'm wondering is can I set the DRL to use the turn signal circuit so just the upper and lower white bars turn on (and the LED bar running light in my tails).

I figured I'd ask here first since this is rather specific to how this headlight responds...

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Did your truck originally come with projector headlights? Either way, in order to use AlfaOBD to run the DRLs on these headlights and not the fuse tap harness, you’ll have to use the dedicated DRL circuit wires. If your truck came with projectors, it’s easier. If it came with quads, you’ll have to add the wires to the front end connector, which @Mpgrimm2 has a solution for, I believe (2 lengths of wires with the terminals crimped on). You can’t enable the turn signal as the DRLs for these, because it’ll just illuminate the amber turn signal light. These are the settings you would use:

DRL configuration >optional


DRL lamp location > dedicated


DRL dropout enabled > yes


CBC I/O right dedicated DRL lamp output present> yes (should be yes already)


CBC I/O left dedicated DRL lamp output present > yes (should be yes already)


LED dedicated DRL present > yes


ECUConfig 3 DRL customer setting enable> yes


CustSetMenu 1 daytime running lights CSM> yes

Jimmy07 said:

Did your truck originally come with projector headlights? Either way, in order to use AlfaOBD to run the DRLs on these headlights and not the fuse tap harness, you’ll have to use the dedicated DRL circuit wires. If your truck came with projectors, it’s easier. If it came with quads, you’ll have to add the wires to the front end connector, which @Mpgrimm has a solution for, I believe (2 lengths of wires with the terminals crimped on). You can’t enable the turn signal as the DRLs for these, because it’ll just illuminate the amber turn signal light. These are the settings you would use:

DRL configuration >optional


DRL lamp location > dedicated


DRL dropout enabled > yes


CBC I/O right dedicated DRL lamp output present> yes (should be yes already)


CBC I/O left dedicated DRL lamp output present > yes (should be yes already)


LED dedicated DRL present > yes


ECUConfig 3 DRL customer setting enable> yes


CustSetMenu 1 daytime running lights CSM> yes

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Correct me if I'm wrong but I think illuminating what used to be the amber running light circuit is exactly what I want?

I had factory quads and I'm currently running the Modify Street v2.

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SitKneelBend said:

Correct me if I'm wrong but I think illuminating what used to be the amber running light circuit is exactly what I want?

I had factory quads and I'm currently running the Modify Street v2.

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Click to expand...

The V2 has the switchback for lower DRL. Im thinking the DRL lead from the V2 should just be connected to the projector DRL feed from the truck (or the jumper if you have to buy it from mpgrimm). Seeing vids from other people who have V2 it looks like the switchback is handled correctly, but I dont have first hand experience with the V2 lights myself so Im not 100% sure.

I have a Big Horn so I needed the jumpers from mpgrimm. I have them mostly run and will be able to report back about how much wire is required to get to each headlight, in case you want to get the whole thing instead of just the pin and 6" of wire.