Trailer brake controller question

I have a 14 RAM 1500 Sport and just purchased a travel trailer with electric brakes. My sport does not have the option on the console to control trailer brakes. My question is, should I purchase the OEM controls or just buy an aftermarket setup?

Thanks

viclava said:

I have a 14 RAM 1500 Sport and just purchased a travel trailer with electric brakes. My sport does not have the option on the console to control trailer brakes. My question is, should I purchase the OEM controls or just buy an aftermarket setup?

Thanks

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I would reccomend the factory brake controller. They work great and are completely integrated with the truck. The controler also fits well and looks nice in the factory switch panel. I use mine all the time and I love it. You can save trailer types and different settings in your settings menu plus name your trailers if you like. You can also have the trailer gain show in the EVIC on your speedometer if you chose. You can buy the kit online and install it yourself. You will need to have the codes enabled by the dealer or use the alpha OBD tool and do it yourself.

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How much is the kit? Thx

Also, Do I need to purchase the whole "kit" module, switch, harness? My Sport has every other feature excdpt ride height adjust and trailer brakes. Bizarre, it has the tow pkg too.

viclava said:

Also, Do I need to purchase the whole "kit" module, switch, harness? My Sport has every other feature excdpt ride height adjust and trailer brakes. Bizarre, it has the tow pkg too.

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No you would remove the block off plate that's in the switch panel now and install the trailer brake controler. It's easy to do. The kit costs around $240 dollars. Mopar part# 82213474AB. It is always best if you double check the part# before you order. It's also good to make sure you are getting the whole kit. Some places list the module only for sale without the rest of the kit. From the part#s the 2013/2014 trucks use the same module. The 15/16/17 will not work on the 14. It will usually be much more if you buy it from your local dealer after their enormous markup. Remember you will need to either have the dealer enable the code or do it yourself with the alfa OBD tool.

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I just installed the integrated brake controller to my 15 sport and the dealer is flashing it tomorrow. Seems like the people that have it like it. It is a higher cost compared to other brake controllers but having it integrated into your truck is nice. I bought mine off of eBay for $220 and it included the control module, bracket with 3 screws, and the switch for the panel. The cost for the dealer to flash in my area is $120-$160.

Edit***
Cost for flashing the controller was $65

I found a used controller box and bought a new switch. I had a techakosha (spelling) p3 before the OEM one, was fine but knee always hit it. If you have the 7 inch evic, once you install the OEM trailer brake and get it flashed to your truck, the option will show on your evic. Also the 8.4 radio it will show under settings if you update the radio after install. The OEM brake also has sway control help using your abs system. Total for used control box and a new switch was like $100. Wiring is already there, basically plug and play, except the flash for your evic to see it. The screws on the controller box are very very hard to put in, I did 2 and used a zip tire the secure other. If you have AlphaObd, should be able to add it to your truck, if you don't have alpha, might be cheaper to buy it to add to truck than what dealers charge, some want over $100 just to flash.

Just my $0.02. I prefer the Tekonsha P3 over the OEM one. I almost found out the hard way the OEM controller only puts out 10 volts maximum. I had to emergency brake for a red light and I could feel the trailer push me into the intersection. Luckily no one was coming on the cross street. I set the controller to maximum and connected a volt meter to the brake wires. On full braking it only put out 10 volts. Swapped out the P3 and repeated the test. It put out what ever voltage I had it set for. Also the P3 applies an initial quick boost to the trailer brakes that helps stabilize the trailer during braking.

chri5k said:

Just my $0.02. I prefer the Tekonsha P3 over the OEM one. I almost found out the hard way the OEM controller only puts out 10 volts maximum. I had to emergency brake for a red light and I could feel the trailer push me into the intersection. Luckily no one was coming on the cross street. I set the controller to maximum and connected a volt meter to the brake wires. On full braking it only put out 10 volts. Swapped out the P3 and repeated the test. It put out what ever voltage I had it set for. Also the P3 applies an initial quick boost to the trailer brakes that helps stabilize the trailer during braking.

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Just curious is your truck a 2500/3500 or a 1500? I had heard of some people with the 2500/3500 trucks having that issue in the past. It wasn't on all of them and just certain years. For some reason the 1500 trucks weren't affected. I think it was some type of a glitch in the software for those trucks.

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Well,, It all depends on how deep your pockets are. I know the OEM ones are very nice but ,,,, If it was,nt installed at the factory it,s going to cost a bunch. And it depends on how often your going to tow. I guess it depends on how bad you really want a OEM control. I myself use a Tekonsha control and have always been pleased with them. And the best part is you can get out of it for under a $100 bucks and install it yourself in about 1/2 hour. ( just my 2 cents ).

Ricks Ram said:

Just curious is your truck a 2500/3500 or a 1500? I had heard of some people with the 2500/3500 trucks having that issue in the past. It wasn't on all of them and just certain years. For some reason the 1500 trucks weren't affected. I think it was some type of a glitch in the software for those trucks.

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Sorry, yes my truck is a 2016 Crew Cab 2500 6.7L Cummins. I was towing one of my 7000LB horse trailers with a gooseneck hitch.

Hadn't heard about a software glitch. One would think that would be a safety recall!

chri5k said:

Sorry, yes my truck is a 2016 Crew Cab 2500 6.7L Cummins. I was towing one of my 7000LB horse trailers with a gooseneck hitch.

Hadn't heard about a software glitch. One would think that would be a safety recall!

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No as usual back when some of the people the HD trucks were having issues with the trailer brake the dealers were saying they were operating correctly. It only affected certain years. I think it was the later 15 HD trucks and the 16 HD trucks but don't quote me on it. To the best of my knowledge there wasn't a TSB or any acknowlegement on the issue from Chrysler. My buddy tows a huge fifth wheel toy hauler with his 17 2500 and his seems to work fine so I am thinking it was addressed later.

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Just my 2,,cents here. I pull two different double axle trailers various times and frequently. I installed the OE controller myself. Programmed with Alfa and it works perfectly. I can set separately for each trailer, adjust gain on the fly and watch on evic as it works. Also has a "trip odometer" for each trailer name you set up. Had a couple of Scarry incidents on the highway and it actually did help with away etc with integrating in with the reaction control/anti away stuff. I am impressed. Install was as described above. But not having the box to hit my knee on is an extra bonus in my eyes also. Overall looks like it belongs. As to the strength of the controller. I can set it to work as hard as I need it to under overloaded conditions as well as empty with no problems. I am curious about the owner who posted above about only getting 10V out. I haven't checked mine, but these do not put out a straight D. Voltage from what I understand. They use a PWM that is similar to what I hear of on some of the lights. A DC meter might not give a completely accurate reading on this. Again. I haven't checked this specifically on mine though.

Just curious as to where everyone is shopping for OEM brake controller? I’m looking for one for my 09 1500 but it doesn’t seem to exist...