Synthetic Oil

Oil of Choice

  • Castrol Syntec/Edge

    Votes: 233 8.4%
  • Royal Purple

    Votes: 325 11.7%
  • AMSOil

    Votes: 396 14.3%
  • Valvoline Synpower

    Votes: 160 5.8%
  • Mobil 1

    Votes: 992 35.9%
  • Other

    Votes: 660 23.9%

  • Total voters
    2,766

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joshuaeb09

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Honest question,

Has anyone ever known “all data”to have incorrect part numbers or information?

It’s illegal to post pictures from “all data”. So these are from “Fall Fata”. Just to be clear as mud. This is for my truck (2016) with a 5.7 or a 6.4.



0c4ab562f0f531d90869d7ea79178019.jpg



Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


All the damn time. I haven't used it in a while, but it was frequently wrong on my Fords so I always cross referenced application guides and the OE book.
 

HammerHead

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Density plays a role in the viscosity of an oil at a given temperature outside of any modifiers like VII's, which increase viscosity on other principles than just fluid density as they are actually less dense when they expand. However the density change is not a 1:1 viscosity change as noted by the 2nd link's set of charts. A prime example of this is the chart for the straight 30 weight. Pretty much the only numbers you should be concerned with are the viscosity at a given temperature as the density will also either change differently or have a different impact depending on the nature of the base oil and any modifiers like VII's.

https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/...cant-volume-correction-ASTM-D1250-d_1943.html
https://wiki.anton-paar.com/en/engine-oil/
That second link made sense to me. OK so viscosity and oil density are different properties but are directly related. As oils get hotter they thin out and lose density. Simple enough!
Is there a range you guys look for?
 

Hemi395

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Which do you prefer, copper or iiridium?
I think it depends on what you use the truck for. I only do 6-8k per year so 30k plug intervals are fine with me. But if you do say 15k per year, the irridium plugs would be better.

Personally I like copper plugs simply because they fire with less energy...
 

U&A

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I just called NGK and got some really good information. I’m driving right now so I’ll post later


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]
 

U&A

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Ok,

Corey the copper plug man will like this[emoji16]

Firstly I called the dealer and they gave me a Mopar number which is a Bosch iridium plug.

I called NGK and a really nice gentleman helped me out with understanding all of this. He said that you can use their copper, platinum, or some new fancy plug that is better than iridium.

I told him how “Fall Fata[emoji6]” listed the copper plug I mentioned. He said he recommends the copper plug if you’re OK with 30,000 intervals. Based on feedback he has received the copper plug gives noticeably better performance (Corey[emoji41]). But if you’re looking for longevity go platinum or iridium.

He didn’t “say” but I picked up on the reason they went to iridium as OEM. Simply the fact that they can say 100,000 mile service interval them. We have been assuming that all along and we were right.

So my coppers are going in.




Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]
 

joshuaeb09

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That second link made sense to me. OK so viscosity and oil density are different properties but are directly related. As oils get hotter they thin out and lose density. Simple enough!
Is there a range you guys look for?

That depends on the oil and how its going to sheer as well as the engine it's going in. For my 5.7 with its 180 T-Stat it really likes the ~12 CST of Redline 5W30 or PUP 0W40 once it sheers down. The oil does run a bit colder at around 195 empty so it's going to be a touch thicker than the advertised hot visc at 212. The 6.4 being an SRT has higher compression (10.9:1) and gets hot once it's been worked so the ~15.5 CST of the RL 0W40/5W40 works well there since the oil is usually right around 210 with a 180 T-Stat and can get up to 240-250ish when it's being pushed for a while.

Since the 6.4 truck configuration has that 216 T-stat I would probably shoot for around the same, taking into account how much the oil will sheer during the OCI. If it's under high loads then the thicker rated oil, again in that 15 range, will thin out a bit at elevated oil temps and maintain better protection.
 

grizzstang

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I would be interested to hear what "noticeably better performance" means, if it is 2/10ths of a second in the quarter mile I don't care too much. I have iridium plugs in my truck and it runs great. I would prefer to not plank across my engine for a few hours every 30,000 miles to replace them. I am pretty sure I can find something better to do.
 

U&A

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I would be interested to hear what "noticeably better performance" means, if it is 2/10ths of a second in the quarter mile I don't care too much. I have iridium plugs in my truck and it runs great. I would prefer to not plank across my engine for a few hours every 30,000 miles to replace them. I am pretty sure I can find something better to do.

I see it as a chance to see inspect the condition of each cylinder. Spark plug tells a lot. And if your going to pull the JUST to do an inspection than why not replace them at the time anyway.

100,000 miles..... or even 80,000 mils is a LONG time.


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]
 

U&A

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I would be interested to hear what "noticeably better performance" means, if it is 2/10ths of a second in the quarter mile I don't care too much. I have iridium plugs in my truck and it runs great. I would prefer to not plank across my engine for a few hours every 30,000 miles to replace them. I am pretty sure I can find something better to do.

When he says the word performance I don’t think he means faster times on a track I think he’s talking more along the lines of idling characteristics and efficiencies.




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U&A

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Im not saying platinum and iridium are not good. They are GREAT !

just a different purpose. And arguably some of the harder metal plugs COULD perform better.... some say

Its kinda like arguing about the big 3. ... they all have their good and bad qualities


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U&A

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REDLINE RACING oil is blue-ish / green....[emoji848]. The smell is basically identical to blue label Redline: so I’m wondering if the color is from the high Molly and ZDDP..... and hopefully calcium [emoji16]

0c4d0424108a93d4674591dde38779f1.jpg
b26057cc34cad7719be37db44d565610.jpg



Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]
 

HammerHead

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REDLINE RACING oil is blue-ish / green....[emoji848]. The smell is basically identical to blue label Redline: so I’m wondering if the color is from the high Molly and ZDDP..... and hopefully calcium [emoji16]

0c4d0424108a93d4674591dde38779f1.jpg
b26057cc34cad7719be37db44d565610.jpg



Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]
The one time I ran Schaffers 5w30 it was the same color. Greenish Blue!
 

HammerHead

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I think it depends on what you use the truck for. I only do 6-8k per year so 30k plug intervals are fine with me. But if you do say 15k per year, the irridium plugs would be better.

Personally I like copper plugs simply because they fire with less energy...
I agree, I put 24k on my new 6.4 in one year of ownership. Glad I can wait a little longer; manual says 100k but I’ll be doing them at 50k.
 

Burla

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REDLINE RACING oil is blue-ish / green....[emoji848]. The smell is basically identical to blue label Redline: so I’m wondering if the color is from the high Molly and ZDDP..... and hopefully calcium [emoji16]

0c4d0424108a93d4674591dde38779f1.jpg
b26057cc34cad7719be37db44d565610.jpg



Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

I don't want to open a bag of worms, oops too late, but what I wonder is if their HP line is actually dyed amber to look like oil. If so that would be funny, RP dyes their oil to look synthetic, and redline dyes their synthetic to look like oil. Ha, no I have zero info on this, I just wondered about it.
 

Hemi395

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Ok,

Corey the copper plug man will like this[emoji16]

Firstly I called the dealer and they gave me a Mopar number which is a Bosch iridium plug.

I called NGK and a really nice gentleman helped me out with understanding all of this. He said that you can use their copper, platinum, or some new fancy plug that is better than iridium.

I told him how “Fall Fata[emoji6]” listed the copper plug I mentioned. He said he recommends the copper plug if you’re OK with 30,000 intervals. Based on feedback he has received the copper plug gives noticeably better performance (Corey[emoji41]). But if you’re looking for longevity go platinum or iridium.

He didn’t “say” but I picked up on the reason they went to iridium as OEM. Simply the fact that they can say 100,000 mile service interval them. We have been assuming that all along and we were right.

So my coppers are going in.




Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]
Great info!
 

Hemi395

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I see it as a chance to see inspect the condition of each cylinder. Spark plug tells a lot. And if your going to pull the JUST to do an inspection than why not replace them at the time anyway.

100,000 miles..... or even 80,000 mils is a LONG time.


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]
^^^^this
 

HammerHead

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Good new!!!
MoparFactoryPatrs.com is selling PUP 0w40 for $8.57
Type in part number: 68171066-PB

I emailed them to confirm it was PUP and not the Mopar brand oil, they said it was Pennzoil Ultra. Mopar 0w40 is a different part number and is not in stock.
Or you can take this information into the dealership and see if they will price match.
 

Hemi395

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When he says the word performance I don’t think he means faster times on a track I think he’s talking more along the lines of idling characteristics and efficiencies.




Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]
Exactly, by "performance" he means the copper plugs create a spark with less energy used.

I doubt anyone would see any gains at the track or anything....
 
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