Synthetic Oil

Oil of Choice

  • Castrol Syntec/Edge

    Votes: 235 8.5%
  • Royal Purple

    Votes: 327 11.8%
  • AMSOil

    Votes: 399 14.4%
  • Valvoline Synpower

    Votes: 160 5.8%
  • Mobil 1

    Votes: 994 35.8%
  • Other

    Votes: 661 23.8%

  • Total voters
    2,776

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U&A

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Density plays a role in the viscosity of an oil at a given temperature outside of any modifiers like VII's, which increase viscosity on other principles than just fluid density as they are actually less dense when they expand. However the density change is not a 1:1 viscosity change as noted by the 2nd link's set of charts. A prime example of this is the chart for the straight 30 weight. Pretty much the only numbers you should be concerned with are the viscosity at a given temperature as the density will also either change differently or have a different impact depending on the nature of the base oil and any modifiers like VII's.

https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/...cant-volume-correction-ASTM-D1250-d_1943.html
https://wiki.anton-paar.com/en/engine-oil/

If im understand the charts correctly. SAE30 (Straight weight) has slightly more density than their 2nd place contender 15w40.

Kinda figured that

This is exactly what most of us have been assuming all along is the closer together the numbers are to a straight weight the denser oil (relative to its counterpart in a multi viscosity)

The one thing most people don’t know is straight weight still act like multi weight oils.
For example. A lot of SAE30’s could almost pass as a 10w30. This makes me even more want to try 10W-40 again. Or even something more off the wall.

Im going to contact dave if nobody else hasn’t already and see if I can get density numbers on their blue label oil’s.
[emoji3595]Burla, did you do this already?

Iv often wondered if conventional oils are slightly more dense than full synthetics when they are of similar viscosity.

For example True synthetic oil molecules are extremely symmetrical like a sphere. Whereas conventional oil molecules are blockier. Though the sphere shaped molecules will provide better protection the blockier ones almost have more resistance to being pushed out of the way.... so that could make them more “dense” ....? Think of one of them ball pits that kids play in. The sphere’s move easy. Now make the same pit with plastic blocks of different size and shape. They Don’t move so easy now...

Density is definitely something to keep looking into IMO...




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U&A

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I don't want to open a bag of worms, oops too late, but what I wonder is if their HP line is actually dyed amber to look like oil. If so that would be funny, RP dyes their oil to look synthetic, and redline dyes their synthetic to look like oil. Ha, no I have zero info on this, I just wondered about it.

Very possible!!

What’s funny is the blue label (that we all use) is a reddish/brown color and the red label racing oil is bluish colored.

[emoji23][emoji23][emoji23]


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HammerHead

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If im understand the charts correctly. SAE30 (Straight weight) has slightly more density than their 2nd place contender 15w40.

Kinda figured that

This is exactly what most of us have been assuming all along is the closer together the numbers are to a straight weight the denser oil (relative to its counterpart in a multi viscosity)

The one thing most people don’t know is straight weight still act like multi weight oils.
For example. A lot of SAE30’s could almost pass as a 10w30. This makes me even more want to try 10W-40 again. Or even something more off the wall.

Im going to contact dave if nobody else hasn’t already and see if I can get density numbers on their blue label oil’s.
[emoji3595]Burla, did you do this already?

Iv often wondered if conventional oils are slightly more dense than full synthetics when they are of similar viscosity.

For example True synthetic oil molecules are extremely symmetrical like a sphere. Whereas conventional oil molecules are blockier. Though the sphere shaped molecules will provide better protection the blockier ones almost have more resistance to being pushed out of the way.... so that could make them more “dense” ....? Think of one of them ball pits that kids play in. The sphere’s move easy. Now make the same pit with plastic blocks of different size and shape. They Don’t move so easy now...

Density is definitely something to keep looking into IMO...




Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]
I find that interesting; conventional oil (Group 2) having blocky molecules. Might be a denser oil per weight over a Group 3.
I’m thinking that’s why High mileage engines do better on conventional oils.
And less oil consumption?
 
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U&A

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I find that interesting; conventional oil (Group 2) having blocky molecules. Might be a denser oil per weight over a Group 3.
I’m thinking that’s why High mileage engines do better on conventional oils.
And less oil consumption?

Explain you view on how conventional could lower consumption. Im interested in that though.

I was thinking the high milage oils get less consumption because they are always thicker


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HammerHead

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Explain you view on how conventional could lower consumption. Im interested in that though.

I was thinking the high milage oils get less consumption because they are always thicker


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Nothing scientific to add, just personal experience. My old 1999 dodge with the 5.9 started consuming a quart of oil every 500 miles on 5w30 synthetic (Group 3), switched to a conventional High mileage in 10w40 and my oil consumption was reduced by 50%. But, that could easily be the heavier weight oil.
My other higher mileage vehicles always ran better on conventional oils, smoother and less noisy.
 

U&A

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That depends on the oil and how its going to sheer as well as the engine it's going in. For my 5.7 with its 180 T-Stat it really likes the ~12 CST of Redline 5W30 or PUP 0W40 once it sheers down. The oil does run a bit colder at around 195 empty so it's going to be a touch thicker than the advertised hot visc at 212. The 6.4 being an SRT has higher compression (10.9:1) and gets hot once it's been worked so the ~15.5 CST of the RL 0W40/5W40 works well there since the oil is usually right around 210 with a 180 T-Stat and can get up to 240-250ish when it's being pushed for a while.

Since the 6.4 truck configuration has that 216 T-stat I would probably shoot for around the same, taking into account how much the oil will sheer during the OCI. If it's under high loads then the thicker rated oil, again in that 15 range, will thin out a bit at elevated oil temps and maintain better protection.

My redline UOA as well as many others show literally zero loss in viscosity or close to non.

My last one was exactly the same as new oil.

I think Cory and Rons UOA also had very impressive viscosities that were basically like new and they both worked their trucks pretty good.

Redline holds it VERY well


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joshuaeb09

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My redline UOA as well as many others show literally zero loss in viscosity or close to non.

My last one was exactly the same as new oil.

I think Cory and Rons UOA also had very impressive viscosities that were basically like new and they both worked their trucks pretty good.

Redline holds it VERY well


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Yup. I love me that sheer stability. Don't have to dump it after 500 miles cause I've sheered it to hell staying in the power band during a single twisted sisters run.
 

Zack02

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I called NGK and a really nice gentleman helped me out with understanding all of this. He said that you can use their copper, platinum, or some new fancy plug that is better than iridium.

Interesting, thanks for running that down. Did you ask him about the coils? Are you going change out the coil packs to the ones for the coppers? Having a hotter sparker can lead to pre-ignition issues, or are you not worried about it?
I didn't have any pre-ignition issues, but they were definitely getting hot.
 

joshuaeb09

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Interesting, thanks for running that down. Did you ask him about the coils? Are you going change out the coil packs to the ones for the coppers? Having a hotter sparker can lead to pre-ignition issues, or are you not worried about it?
I didn't have any pre-ignition issues, but they were definitely getting hot.

Can always open up the gap from the .044 to something like .050 or even .055 if going from the iridiums to the coppers with the hotter coils. The maximum gap would require some tweaking. Short of going a step colder on the plugs it would help as well.
 

Burla

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Yup. I love me that sheer stability. Don't have to dump it after 500 miles cause I've sheered it to hell staying in the power band during a single twisted sisters run.

We don't discuss that enough, especially guys with the 6.4 running 0w40, but when you loose a point of visc due to shear that is 10% of your protection, you loose 2 and that is 20%, but the oil pump does make up for some of that and it is likely figured into fca's desicision to run that oil along with the stoutness of 0w40's as mentioned, but still they most important specs are mercedes and porsche, so if your 0w40 has those specs as well you have done all you can within that weight.
 

U&A

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Interesting, thanks for running that down. Did you ask him about the coils? Are you going change out the coil packs to the ones for the coppers? Having a hotter sparker can lead to pre-ignition issues, or are you not worried about it?
I didn't have any pre-ignition issues, but they were definitely getting hot.

This is what NGK said.

They said the coil in the 6.4 is perfectly capable of running Standard, platinum, or iridium. There will be no pre-ignition issues.


he said with the 5.7 in the past there were issues when people tried to run the iridium plugs. The standard plug was the best option for them. Im assuming the newer 5.7 handles all 3 types just fine.


I was very clear with him and said I will gladly return these plugs and do whatever you suggest would be my best option. Again, he said all three would be fine. Choose based on your needs. I chose copper after talking to my man Corey about it some time ago.



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Burla

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Well I was looking, the back drivers side is gonna be a ***** to get, I am suprised the other guy was able to get it easily. We will see, the wife has me on my favorite job right now, chain sawing. Pine and Palm, what a freaking nightmare cutting a palm down, lol. I rold her, the dump wont take them, so we will have to live with the body till it breaks down, which is longer then either of us with be alive, lol. She made me cut it down, my chainsaw was really not happy about it and it let me know.
 

U&A

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I just listened to the 5.0 in an F150 have terrible start up tic. It mostly went away within two seconds or so but then turned into a hot idle tic.

Good lord

It’s everywhere!!!


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GottaBeKD

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We don't discuss that enough, especially guys with the 6.4 running 0w40, but when you loose a point of visc due to shear that is 10% of your protection, you loose 2 and that is 20%, but the oil pump does make up for some of that and it is likely figured into fca's desicision to run that oil along with the stoutness of 0w40's as mentioned, but still they most important specs are mercedes and porsche, so if your 0w40 has those specs as well you have done all you can within that weight.
Do we know how the QSUD 5w30 fairs with shearing?

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crackerjack1957

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I just listened to the 5.0 in an F150 have terrible start up tic. It mostly went away within two seconds or so but then turned into a hot idle tic.

Good lord

It’s everywhere!!!


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Never had an older adjustable valvetrain engine that had a tick issue only on the non-adjustable.
 
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U&A

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Never had an older adjustable valvetrain engine that had a tick issue only on the non-adjustable.

I didn’t quite understand it either.

Is the 5.0. The engine that gets the “coyote tic”

Either way. It was ticing LOUD. and it wasn’t exhaust


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U&A

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Auto zone has a killer disconnect and shipping deal right now. To bad their car parts are completely garbage. Some things are ok though

a7b6144dd067ffa442dcbae4cead5e40.jpg


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OMW2SKI

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Time for an oil change. I did 2 changes before getting a prepaid package (courtesy of Ramcares due to the OTA update fiasco). First 2 changes were Mobil 1 and PUP. IMHO, PUP did not run as quiet as the Mobil 1. Dealer was using Penzoil synthetic - but I doubt PUP. Truck is a little noisy when cold. Gonna give QSUD a shot. It's more readily available than Redline or PUP. Found it at Walmart for $18/5 quarts. Always used MOPAR filter and 5W20. Adding some Liqui Moly MOS2 this time around. Hopefully it will quiet down those cold starts a little.


Got the QSUD and Liqui Moly in over the weekend. I didn't realize how noisy the engine was on cold start-ups until it quit. QSUD and Liqui Moly for the score! You other guys that use Liqui Moly, how often do you add? Every oil change, or some other interval?
 

Burla

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Do we know how the QSUD 5w30 fairs with shearing?

data sheet 5w30

They haven't got of lot of the stay in grade specs, don't have noack showing, or hths. So it would just be a guess, but they do have latest dexos, so I'm guessing it would be average give or take. I'd say doing a uoa takes the guess away, either look up uoa's and see, or try one of your own.
 

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