2014 2500 HELP MYSTERY CHATTER?

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ouff1968

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2014 2500 4WD Tradesman/Hemi
I’ve got a chatter/clicking coming from underneath...in 2 & 4WD, only when moving in drive (all gears) and reverse. It gets faster with acceleration.
Trans & Transfer case operating flawlessly. 4WD works properly.
All u-joints & dr shafts are tight...no slop/play.
Just replaced both front wheel bearings.
Pulled the rear pig cover and looks beautiful inside, with 89,000.
Could this in the transfer case.....
The...pump/plate/anti rattle clip that has failed?
I’m unable to pin down where the sound is generating from to determine where to begin with the tear down. As luck would have it the extended 60 month expired March 31!
So now I’m on my own. I’m capable and willing, just need a little direction.

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olyelr

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Im of no help, but did want to say NICE TRUCK! :cheers:
 

crash68

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just throwing out a couple of ideas, failing mid-shaft bearing or possibly dry driveshaft splines?
 

Ratket

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Have you ever heard a “ Failing U Joint?” They click real loud, I had the transmission side u joints go bad long ago when I was in my early 20”s.. I would of swore up and down it was the drive shaft but once we pulled it apart it was clearly the u Joint, it’s amazing how the sound carried down the drive shaft, was a simple easy fix.
 
OP
OP
O

ouff1968

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Have you ever heard a “ Failing U Joint?” They click real loud, I had the transmission side u joints go bad long ago when I was in my early 20”s.. I would of swore up and down it was the drive shaft but once we pulled it apart it was clearly the u Joint, it’s amazing how the sound carried down the drive shaft, was a simple easy fix.

Ratket...YOU’VE GOT MY EAR
Is dropping the shafts the only way to detect this?
All the U joints feel perfect now with a hands on inspection........
That’s not to say what your suggesting isn’t happening.
That’s why I ask?
The type of U joints on the rig are
un-grease-able while on the rig.
Theirs no zirks or needle ports anywhere...never seen this before!
I guess removal, separation, inspection, grease, re-assemble, and re-install would be the only way to inspect/maintenance? Crazy!
I purchased new and have never put it in the mud and only light off rd, mainly street. Theirs been no abuse, or putting it thru what I know it’s capable of!!!
I’m so puzzled???
Thinking of temp-mounting a Go-Pro in several locations underneath while
running it for detection, or at the very least
somewhere to start with the tear down???

Thanks, appreciate this and it really means a lot!

OUFF1968
Jay Shoemaker
Prescott, MI
 

olyelr

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Actually, the double cardan joint on the front shaft does indeed have a grease zerk. If you havnt ever greased it, that could certainly be the cause of your noise.

Also, loose joints can be hard to detect when the shafts are still installed. Removing them and then checking will give you better results.
 

HammerHead

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Ratket...YOU’VE GOT MY EAR
Is dropping the shafts the only way to detect this?
All the U joints feel perfect now with a hands on inspection........
That’s not to say what your suggesting isn’t happening.
That’s why I ask?
The type of U joints on the rig are
un-grease-able while on the rig.
Theirs no zirks or needle ports anywhere...never seen this before!
I guess removal, separation, inspection, grease, re-assemble, and re-install would be the only way to inspect/maintenance? Crazy!
I purchased new and have never put it in the mud and only light off rd, mainly street. Theirs been no abuse, or putting it thru what I know it’s capable of!!!
I’m so puzzled???
Thinking of temp-mounting a Go-Pro in several locations underneath while
running it for detection, or at the very least
somewhere to start with the tear down???

Thanks, appreciate this and it really means a lot!

OUFF1968
Jay Shoemaker
Prescott, MI
Go-pro video is a great idea; if you could post a video it would help us try and get an ideal of what it might be. And like already stated the smaller shaft connecting your transfer case to the front diff has a fitting to greas; but it’s not a normal fitting. YouTube it, there are multiple videos that I used to help me.
Nice Tuck btw :)
 

HammerHead

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I hope it’s not a lifter; if the ticking gets faster with the RPM’s increasing then it might be engine/lifter related.
 
OP
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ouff1968

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FINALLY.....CHATTER SOLVED!!!

Well I certainly feel humble!

After extensive searching, it came to be the rear u-joint on the rear driveshaft.
Installed inspection showed this shaft was tight, with zero play/slop and showed no signs of wear or failure.
It wasn’t until a complete removal of the rear driveshaft was their a clear sign of
u-joint failure, causing the mystery chatter.
All the front shafts u-joints and the other rear u-joint were also all dry and desperately in need of grease, and will be replaced.
These u-joints offer no maintenance, or way of greasing, (outside the one spot on the front-front shaft)...which in my opinion is a poor choice.....on a $40,000 truck!
Take nothing for granted, and a deeper look, although sometimes requiring more time and effort then, saves frustration and time later!
Lesson learned!
Thanks to all who offered up opinions and direction, your all awesome!


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wgreggking

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FINALLY.....CHATTER SOLVED!!!

Well I certainly feel humble!

After extensive searching, it came to be the rear u-joint on the rear driveshaft.
Installed inspection showed this shaft was tight, with zero play/slop and showed no signs of wear or failure.
It wasn’t until a complete removal of the rear driveshaft was their a clear sign of
u-joint failure, causing the mystery chatter.
All the front shafts u-joints and the other rear u-joint were also all dry and desperately in need of grease, and will be replaced.
These u-joints offer no maintenance, or way of greasing, (outside the one spot on the front-front shaft)...which in my opinion is a poor choice.....on a $40,000 truck!
Take nothing for granted, and a deeper look, although sometimes requiring more time and effort then, saves frustration and time later!
Lesson learned!
Thanks to all who offered up opinions and direction, your all awesome!


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Did you put grease-able U joints back in?
 

maverickmk

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FINALLY.....CHATTER SOLVED!!!

Well I certainly feel humble!

After extensive searching, it came to be the rear u-joint on the rear driveshaft.
Installed inspection showed this shaft was tight, with zero play/slop and showed no signs of wear or failure.
It wasn’t until a complete removal of the rear driveshaft was their a clear sign of
u-joint failure, causing the mystery chatter.
All the front shafts u-joints and the other rear u-joint were also all dry and desperately in need of grease, and will be replaced.
These u-joints offer no maintenance, or way of greasing, (outside the one spot on the front-front shaft)...which in my opinion is a poor choice.....on a $40,000 truck!
Take nothing for granted, and a deeper look, although sometimes requiring more time and effort then, saves frustration and time later!
Lesson learned!
Thanks to all who offered up opinions and direction, your all awesome!


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U-joints without zerk fittings are stronger. Not surprising to have them on a 2500.
 

mtofell

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Good news.... and interesting to learn some stuff about how these truck are aging. My 2014 is right there with OP @ around 90K miles. So far everything has been pretty normal (other than tranny blowing @ 38K but that was fixed under warranty has been fine since).

My old 2006 Silverado 2500 cost me an absolute fortune as it aged due to front suspension parts. Hubs, and various parts were out pretty much every oil change it seemed. I loved the truck but throwing money at it is pretty much what got me into my Ram.

As I sit back and think about these trucks they really have been reliable. From hanging out on this board pretty much daily for 5 years there really haven't been any major, widespread problems.
 
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ouff1968

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Haven’t bought the new replacement u-joints yet, as it’s in the shop, but I’ve been looking at several u-joint types now, and was leaning towards the greasable
type.....for the front and rear drive shafts,
in all positions.
Now you’ve got my ear!?!?
Are these meant to last the life of the truck?
Is replacement normal at 90,000/5yr ?
I believe nothing I did could have aided this failure, outside of normal usage.
Is their a manufacturer that produces a
u-joint that’s non-serviceable with a longer life expectancy than the OEM ones available from the dealer?
I was thinking a greasable type would solve the issue, but I’m all about the strength?!?!



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ScrubsR1

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As I sit back and think about these trucks they really have been reliable. From hanging out on this board pretty much daily for 5 years there really haven't been any major, widespread problems.

Not trying to be negative here but what about these new hemi engines(5.7 AND 6.4)? The very heart of these trucks and the most expensive component to repair. I've only been on here a few months but I'm floored by the number of lifter and cam failures people are experiencing, many with very low miles. I purchased my truck hoping to go 200,000+. After reading these forums, I'd feel lucky to make it to 100,000.
 

mtofell

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OP, are you out of warranty? I'
Not trying to be negative here but what about these new hemi engines(5.7 AND 6.4)? The very heart of these trucks and the most expensive component to repair. I've only been on here a few months but I'm floored by the number of lifter and cam failures people are experiencing, many with very low miles. I purchased my truck hoping to go 200,000+. After reading these forums, I'd feel lucky to make it to 100,000.

I haven't seen anything that widespread but must confess as a lifetime warranty holder I may not pay as much attention as I could.
 

22hemi13

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Not trying to be negative here but what about these new hemi engines(5.7 AND 6.4)? The very heart of these trucks and the most expensive component to repair. I've only been on here a few months but I'm floored by the number of lifter and cam failures people are experiencing, many with very low miles. I purchased my truck hoping to go 200,000+. After reading these forums, I'd feel lucky to make it to 100,000.
Let’s not forget it’s a forum and a very very very small number of people on here vs truck owners. My 2014 2500 with 5.7 has about 115k on it and just purrs away. Tons of people with no issues and sure seems like lots of people with issues. Honestly I think if you’re worried about repairs it’s best to trade and keep a truck in warranty so you don’t gotta worry. I hope to drive mine till she croaks or I get bored. Or roll it off a hill lolol.
 

wgreggking

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As far as not being strong, non vs greasable.I personally have not had any issues with either type other than just wearing them out. Never a failure due to what I perceive as other than normal wear. **** breaks. Brand and quality, is probably more important.

like beer: not so fond of Chinese beer, Mexican beer, some good, Turkish beer ? Good ole USA beer, Some good, some not so good, No comment on the Canuk, although when I do drink up north Dos molsons, por favor.
 
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maverickmk

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As far as not being strong, non vs greasable.I personally have not had any issues with either type other than just wearing them out. Never a failure due to what I perceive as other than normal wear. **** breaks. Brand and quality, is probably more important.

like beer: not so fond of Chinese beer, Mexican beer, some good, Turkish beer ? Good ole USA beer, Some good, some not so good, No comment on the Canuk, although when I do drink up north Dos molsons, por favor.
I totally agree. If I'm replacing mine, I'll buy the ones with zerks so I don't have to change them any sooner than non-greasers.
 
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