Rear axle parts broken(internal)

2000 Ram 360 gas 4x4 3.55 gears
75,000 miles
Never had the rear axle fluid changed so I figured I'd change it today.
Upon taking the cover off I noticed I have broken parts laying loose in the housing. Obviously I have no idea how long it's been like that since it's never been changed before. Should I say hell with it and drive it or should I take it the the shop and have the rear end fixed? It drives normal, no noises.. I took some pictures of what's broken.
I put 75/90 Mobil 1 gear oil back in it with the limited slip additive just in case..(and a bottle of motorcraft additive)
Any thoughts or input much appreciated.

What you have there is a broken Trak-Loc clutch retainer. I cant even count how many I have seen like this. It is a very common occurrence in the 9.25 Corporate Axle. Normally what happens is the owners do not catch it in time and the retainer gets caught in between the diff case and the bearing side cap and the retainer machines a large gouge in the bearing cap and sends metal shavings throughout the diff. I have pulled these broken clutch retainers out and cleaned the rear diff with brake cleaner as best as possible and sent them on down the road. I have done so many like this for customers who didn't want to spend the money. I actually have one in a 2005 QC of mine. I removed it under a warranty repair and installed the diff case with the broken retainers into my truck and it has survived for 8 years without a problem.

Here's what will happen...someday. Tomorrow, next year, in two weeks...

Your clutch packs will start to disintegrate, sending a shower of fine metal particles throughout your fluid. The magnet that caught your clips will hold some of it close, but eventually there will be too much metal for it.

The metal contaminates will work their way into every bearing, scoring the rollers until you have metal to metal. The too small pinion bearing is the weak link. It will warn you of it's eminent passing by an increasing roar until the defiled rollers explode from the bearing cage.

The carnage is usually spectacular, and can stop you dead, locking the rear end and spinning you around. Or it will fail at a stop light and leave you stranded. Attempts to force movement can cause your transmission planetary to explode as well, leaving you with an even larger repair bill. I know this from bitter experience.

If the truck is of value to you, consider a rebuild, replacing the weak clutch packs with a Detroit Tru Trac differential or some form of locker. If the value is less, replace with a lower mileage axle, or rebuild what you have and expect things to go South at some point again.

There is no real definition of how long the diff will last. It is all just speculation. You will eventually lose the limited slip function of the rear diff. The clutches will start to slip but there is no exact timeframe for when it will begin. But, like @Okiespaniel said, a diff overhaul is in your future. It may come apart like a grenade and spin you around in traffic or it may just lose the limited slip function. You should have some time to save some cash to purchase a quality diff and a bearing set.

Thanks for all the input with what is wrong with it.... what kind of cash should I expect to pay to have this axle rebuilt with a Detroit Tru trac or equivalent quality parts?? While it's apart I'll prolly have the axle seals replaced along with any bearings that may have been contaminated.

The Detroit Licker can be had for about $595.00. One piece I have experience with is the Auburn MaxLock Diff case. It is a solid piece and I have had excellent results from it too. You can pick one of for about $380 in most cases.

Expect to pay about 1500 to 1800 bucks with the differential for a rebuild at a quality shop. A good shop will source US made bearings

The True trac is considered a high breakover torque limited slip, using helical gears like a Thorsen LSD. It is quiet and really does work much better than any clutch or cone driven LSD. Both DaPeppers and I run them. Summit shows them for 595.00

The MaxLock is considered a lunch box locker because it slips into the existing differential case, replacing your spider gears and LSD clutches. Others include the Lock-rite, Aussie Locker, Detroit easy locker, etc.
Nothing wrong with these, but I do on rare occasions, read about damage. This usually occurs in extreme conditions with large tires, high horsepower, and heavy right feet.

If you decide to replace your factory LSD with anything aftermarket, I would read up on what's out there and make your own decision. Mostly, be honest with yourself and what your intentions with the truck are.
I'd intended on putting in a Lock-Rite but my installer sold me on a Tru Trac. It has exceeded my expectations.

Ouch, more than what I was thinking. My 17 yr old son drives the truck now - mostly just back and forth to school and short little trips to the lake. He drives it like a little old lady cause he knows if he's rough with it I'll kick his ass. Lol
If I'm going to have it fixed I'm going to have it fixed with quality parts so that it lasts... makes no sense to possibly have to have it done twice. I'll have to look around town for a shop that is "qualified" to do it or maybe just have the dealer do it???

As @Okiesaniel mentioned TrueTracs. They are a helical gear set and no clutch packs to fail EVER! I had Front and rear on my Jeep and it went through anything I could through at it (never did any krawling). The only CON I found from them was that gear oil with friction additive actually was not recommended and is kinda a pain to find.

WY-Dave said:

As @Okiesaniel mentioned TrueTracs. They are a helical gear set and no clutch packs to fail EVER! I had Front and rear on my Jeep and it went through anything I could through at it (never did any krawling). The only CON I found from them was that gear oil with friction additive actually was not recommended and is kinda a pain to find.

Click to expand...

My installer put in 85-140 with friction additive and said it won't hurt anything. He's done a bunch of them so I'm ok with it. The only thing he didn't recommend was Royal Purple products.

Dumb question to you all... will the Tru trac be like how the factory gears acted?? I don't want it to act like a posi rear end since my son is driving it and with the winter conditions we have I don't want him "fish tailing"....
if I go with the dealer to have it done and they put all factory parts back in it will I have the same problem or have they fixed the issue??

SAWFISH said:

Dumb question to you all... will the Tru trac be like how the factory gears acted?? I don't want it to act like a posi rear end since my son is driving it and with the winter conditions we have I don't want him "fish tailing"....

Click to expand...

Only a dumb question if you didn't ask it.
With the first snowfall, take the some to a big empty parking lot and teach him how the vehicle is going to react. It will make him a better driver in the long run.
Keep in mind the truck has ESC that will help combat the fishtailing. ESC monitors vehicle speed, steering angle and yaw rate and will fight to keep a vehicle from fishtailing...yeap a doughnut nanny....lol.

crash68 said:

Only a dumb question if you didn't ask it.
With the first snowfall, take the some to a big empty parking lot and teach him how the vehicle is going to react. It will make him a better driver in the long run.
Keep in mind the truck has ESC that will help combat the fishtailing. ESC monitors vehicle speed, steering angle and yaw rate and will fight to keep a vehicle from fishtailing...yeap a doughnut nanny....lol.

Click to expand...

This truck does not have ESC on it. Not sure if that was even an option in 2000

SAWFISH said:

This truck does not have ESC on it. Not sure if that was even an option in 2000

Click to expand...

oops, my bad
D'oh [emoji50]

Okiespaniel said:

My installer put in 85-140 with friction additive and said it won't hurt anything. He's done a bunch of them so I'm ok with it. The only thing he didn't recommend was Royal Purple products.

Click to expand...

Then your installer doesn't know how to read the recommendations from the manufacturer. Yes, it won't destroy it, but decreases it's effectiveness. I don't know about you, but I want all the performance that I paid for.

p.12 (also in the paperwork shipped with the part)
A quality petroleum GL5 rated (mineral) based oil is recommended. Synthetic oils may also be used if desired per axle manufacturer’s recommendations. Friction modifiers should not be used as they will decrease overall performance.

https://www.eaton.com/content/dam/e...on-control/Eaton-Performance-Brochure-Web.pdf

WY-Dave said:

Then your installer doesn't know how to read the recommendations from the manufacturer. Yes, it won't destroy it, but decreases it's effectiveness. I don't know about you, but I want all the performance that I paid for.

p.12 (also in the paperwork shipped with the part)
A quality petroleum GL5 rated (mineral) based oil is recommended. Synthetic oils may also be used if desired per axle manufacturer’s recommendations. Friction modifiers should not be used as they will decrease overall performance.

https://www.eaton.com/content/dam/e...on-control/Eaton-Performance-Brochure-Web.pdf

Click to expand...

I can assure you the "overall performance" has not decreased in the least...and if it has, compared to the nearly worthless factory LSD, I still wouldn't know.

It leaves two equal short black stripes at will from a dead stop on dry pavement. If the pavement is wet, it's smokey entertainment, even wheel hop, but with both tires spinning equally, not "sawing" back and forth like the factory LSD. I could probably drift the truck turning through intersections but am not as crazy as used to be. On wet pavement I'd probably spin the truck.

Perhaps down I'll look for some non LS gear oil, but for right now, adios!

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=501472

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/foru...cs/3671680/all/Eaton_Gear_Oil_Recommendations