Drag Link Recall ... Video

Jimmy07 · Aug 19, 2019

mjf6175 said:
Yes, unfortunately there is a lot of incorrect info about this recall. Also unfortunately, I think Ram itself is responsible for some of that wrong info. After reading all I could about this recall, as I understood it the welding was a temporary fix for any drag link that failed inspection by a dealer. That then a permanent solution would at a later date become available. Many took the welding fix as a permanent fix. Here is where I think Ram dropped the ball and should have been more trasparent on just what was to happen.

This lead many (including myself) to seek and install an aftermarket fix not wanting to wait, or deal with a dealer, and taking pot luck on how good a welding job was going to be. The most favored aftermarket part apparently is the Synergy Drag Link. I bought and installed this myself as well. Its well made and solved the problem. I pasted pics below of the part on my 2017 Ram 2500.

I also pasted below a short youtube video showing the NEW part Ram will apparently be implementing as the part to be used as the permanent fix. If you look closely at the part (especially the adjustment sleeve/nut) you will notice an uncanny resemblance of the new Ram drag link to the Synergy one. ( the new Ram drag link in the video is the one with a dull black finish and is directly above the track bar which is gloss black with an orange sticker on it).

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I agree. The ONLY thing they could have done better, was inform everyone right off the bat and say “hey, there’s no way we can crank out a million of the 2019 HD draglinks, and keep production going on the 19s (rightfully so), so, in the meantime, the weld will mitigate the immediate safety issue”.

22hemi13 · Aug 19, 2019

Jimmy07 said:
I agree. The ONLY thing they could have done better, was inform everyone right off the bat and say “hey, there’s no way we can crank out a million of the 2019 HD draglinks, and keep production going on the 19s (rightfully so), so, in the meantime, the weld will mitigate the immediate safety issue”.

They basically did lol. They said it’s a temp fix and will be replaced when parts are available. How else do they need to write it?

Jimmy07 · Aug 19, 2019

22hemi13 said:
They basically did lol. They said it’s a temp fix and will be replaced when parts are available. How else do they need to write it?

Then I guess I’m not sure what everyone is up in arms about.

Jimmy07 · Aug 19, 2019

Gr8bawana said:
Tell us why Loc-tite will not work.

If you read the tech repair description, if the nuts are found to be loose, this doesn’t automatically mean the draglink gets replaced. Measurements of the threads then need to be taken. THIS is where the defect is. If the threads are out of tolerance with the adjuster sleeve threads, it gets replaced. The issue is, the forces of turning the steering wheel could pull the drag link ends right through the adjuster sleeve (jumping threads). If someone notices that their jam nuts are loose, it could very well be that the nuts themselves never even rotated on the threads to “become loose”, but rather, the link was pulled across the threads out of the sleeve a little bit. This is why loctite won’t do anything. In fact, you could weld the jam nuts to the threads and that still wouldn’t solve the problem. By welding the nuts to the sleeve, you are effectively extending the thread contact area across the two draglink ends with another set of good threading on the nuts.

mjf6175 · Aug 19, 2019

Jimmy07 said:
If you read the tech repair description, if the nuts are found to be loose, this doesn’t automatically mean the draglink gets replaced. Measurements of the threads then need to be taken. THIS is where the defect is. If the threads are out of tolerance with the adjuster sleeve threads, it gets replaced. The issue is, the forces of turning the steering wheel could pull the drag link ends right through the adjuster sleeve (jumping threads). If someone notices that their jam nuts are loose, it could very well be that the nuts themselves never even rotated on the threads to “become loose”, but rather, the link was pulled across the threads out of the sleeve a little bit. This is why loctite won’t do anything. In fact, you could weld the jam nuts to the threads and that still wouldn’t solve the problem. By welding the nuts to the sleeve, you are effectively extending the thread contact area across the two draglink ends with another set of good threading on the nuts.

EXACTLY....if anyone read in complete detail just what was involved in the recall you would see that the procedure regarding the thread inspection was a big indication of the problem. Going by memory, I believe the tech had to take measurements of the depth of the threads as well as how many threads there were in an inch length of the drag link.

22hemi13 · Aug 19, 2019

Jimmy07 said:
Then I guess I’m not sure what everyone is up in arms about.

That’s what I always say lol. It’s almost a non issue haha

GsRAM · Aug 19, 2019

The issue for me is simply this:

If the welding was a temporary fix why dosen't the recall notice I received say that? I have nothing in writing from FCA stating the weld is a temporary fix.

Had FCA clearly stated on the recall the welding was a temporary fix and a revised drag link would be released and installed at no charge, then I'd be fine. To date I've not received anything from FCA to that effect.

If anyone has, I'd appreciate seeing it. At last check, My OEM link remains tight as can be, no issues.

CincyCuda68 · Aug 19, 2019

GsRAM said:
The issue for me is simply this:

If the welding was a temporary fix why dosen't the recall notice I received say that? I have nothing in writing from FCA stating the weld is a temporary fix.

Had FCA clearly stated on the recall the welding was a temporary fix and a revised drag link would be released and installed at no charge, then I'd be fine. To date I've not received anything from FCA to that effect.

If anyone has, I'd appreciate seeing it. At last check, My OEM link remains tight as can be, no issues.

My guess is that when they finally have parts most of the trucks will be out of warranty and it will depend on how your dealer handles things. I have a crappy dealer so no way I’m going for this garbage, at some point I will install the aftermarket and submit for reimbursement as they have let this go long enough without having the parts for a permanent fix.

Jimmy07 · Aug 19, 2019

CincyCuda68 said:
My guess is that when they finally have parts most of the trucks will be out of warranty and it will depend on how your dealer handles things. I have a crappy dealer so no way I’m going for this garbage, at some point I will install the aftermarket and submit for reimbursement as they have let this go long enough without having the parts for a permanent fix.

Whether or not the truck is in warranty has no bearing on a recall. Recalls must be fixed free (if that’s why it was brought to the dealer).

CincyCuda68 · Aug 20, 2019

the replacement part number is 68338342AB and looks to be readily available, I found quite a few sites that say in stock and it runs about $120.00

Jimmy07 · Aug 20, 2019

CincyCuda68 said:
the replacement part number is 68338342AB and looks to be readily available, I found quite a few sites that say in stock and it runs about $120.00

As far as I know, that part is still on restriction. All the mopar sites will say in stock, as they all use the same format. You’d even be able to order and pay for it, but that’s as far as it would go. Days later they’ll refund and send an email saying it’s not available. Even a dealer has to open up a star case if they need to order one.

CincyCuda68 · Aug 20, 2019

Jimmy07 said:
As far as I know, that part is still on restriction. All the mopar sites will say in stock, as they all use the same format. You’d even be able to order and pay for it, but that’s as far as it would go. Days later they’ll refund and send an email saying it’s not available. Even a dealer has to open up a star case if they need to order one.

It’s just time to go aftermarket, it’s kind of ridiculous the amount of time they are taking for something that could potentially kill someone. IMO the welding crap isn’t good enough if they are actually jumping threads, since they just weld the jamb nut to the adjuster. If they aren’t jumping threads but actually coming loose (which is what I believe to be happening) as mine was loose day 1 and I tightened it and added loctite, and it has been fine since (over 20k miles) then why isn’t loctite a fix as opposed to allowing shop guys who can’t weld bastardize the fix?

chrisbh17 · Aug 20, 2019

If welding makes the NHTSA happy, why bother with anything else?

Will the NHTSA fine them if they never go back and replace the part completely?

Bob Macknight · Aug 20, 2019

chrisbh17 said:
If welding makes the NHTSA happy, why bother with anything else?

Will the NHTSA fine them if they never go back and replace the part completely?

Hey everyone, just for the hell of it,get under your truck and try to pivot the draglink by hand. As I did this I found that it was difficult and realized that the end joints don't have a grease fitting.So ive concluded that the joint is stiff do to it being dry, no lubricant.So as you are moving the steering and the driving force against those tie rod ends are significant enough to put force enough to possibly cause the threaded section to move thus creating the issues of these drag links coming loose, me thinks its time to apply some grease into the boots of the tie rod end links.I have done this using the needle type grease fitting and now my drag link pivots as designed so I think this should be the answer to our dilemma . What do you think?

Bob Macknight · Aug 20, 2019

chrisbh17 said:
If welding makes the NHTSA happy, why bother with anything else?

Will the NHTSA fine them if they never go back and replace the part completely?

Hey everyone, just for the hell of it,get under your truck and try to pivot the draglink by hand. As I did this I found that it was difficult and realized that the end joints don't have a grease fitting.So ive concluded that the joint is stiff do to it being dry, no lubricant.So as you are moving the steering and the driving force against those tie rod ends are significant enough to put force enough to possibly cause the threaded section to move thus creating the issues of these drag links coming loose, me thinks its time to apply some grease into the boots of the tie rod end links.I have done this using the needle type grease fitting and now my drag link pivots as designed so I think this should be the answer to our dilemma . What do you think?

Bob Macknight · Aug 20, 2019

chrisbh17 said:
If welding makes the NHTSA happy, why bother with anything else?

Will the NHTSA fine them if they never go back and replace the part completely?

Hey everyone, just for the hell of it,get under your truck and try to pivot the draglink by hand. As I did this I found that it was difficult and realized that the end joints don't have a grease fitting.So ive concluded that the joint is stiff do to it being dry, no lubricant.So as you are moving the steering and the driving force against those tie rod ends are significant enough to put force enough to possibly cause the threaded section to move thus creating the issues of these drag links coming loose, me thinks its time to apply some grease into the boots of the tie rod end links.I have done this using the needle type grease fitting and now my drag link pivots as designed so I think this should be the answer to our dilemma . What do you think?

Bob Macknight · Aug 20, 2019

Bob Macknight said:
Hey everyone, just for the hell of it,get under your truck and try to pivot the draglink by hand. As I did this I found that it was difficult and realized that the end joints don't have a grease fitting.So ive concluded that the joint is stiff do to it being dry, no lubricant.So as you are moving the steering and the driving force against those tie rod ends are significant enough to put force enough to possibly cause the threaded section to move thus creating the issues of these drag links coming loose, me thinks its time to apply some grease into the boots of the tie rod end links.I have done this using the needle type grease fitting and now my drag link pivots as designed so I think this should be the answer to our dilemma . What do you think?

I must apologize for the multiple postings I had a little glitch going on when I tried to post.

Gr8bawana · Aug 20, 2019

Jimmy07 said:
If you read the tech repair description, if the nuts are found to be loose, this doesn’t automatically mean the draglink gets replaced. Measurements of the threads then need to be taken. THIS is where the defect is. If the threads are out of tolerance with the adjuster sleeve threads, it gets replaced. The issue is, the forces of turning the steering wheel could pull the drag link ends right through the adjuster sleeve (jumping threads). If someone notices that their jam nuts are loose, it could very well be that the nuts themselves never even rotated on the threads to “become loose”, but rather, the link was pulled across the threads out of the sleeve a little bit. This is why loctite won’t do anything. In fact, you could weld the jam nuts to the threads and that still wouldn’t solve the problem. By welding the nuts to the sleeve, you are effectively extending the thread contact area across the two draglink ends with another set of good threading on the nuts.

So the dealer welding the nuts could, might, maybe still be pulled apart? So by using Loc-tite until the dealer has replacement parts available you're accomplishing the same thing without the hassle of going to the dealer.
Seems to me if the nuts can be torqued to spec the threads are ok or they would be pulled out. So yes Loc-tite will work until they get the parts.

Jimmy07 · Aug 20, 2019

Gr8bawana said:
So the dealer welding the nuts could, might, maybe still be pulled apart? So by using Loc-tite until the dealer has replacement parts available you're accomplishing the same thing without the hassle of going to the dealer.
Seems to me if the nuts can be torqued to spec the threads are ok or they would be pulled out. So yes Loc-tite will work until they get the parts.

No, because the issue is not with the threading on the inside of the jam nuts- those are fine. The issue is with the threading on the inside of the adjuster sleeve and outer draglink end. Even if the jam nuts were permanently welded to the draglink ends, the issue wouldn’t be resolved. So, no, loctite on the jam nuts does nothing.

CincyCuda68 · Aug 21, 2019

chrisbh17 said:
If welding makes the NHTSA happy, why bother with anything else?

Will the NHTSA fine them if they never go back and replace the part completely?

Well for those of us that have lifted our trucks or plan to lift them, it’s a bit of a PITA to recently the steering wheel

Drag Link Recall ... Video

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