AEV Switch Pod installed

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shadowhawk

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NM- @JB1 -- I looked at the pictures! I'll try to be better at not asking so many questions. I have started a spread sheet with prices and source links that I'll share when I'm done.
 
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shadowhawk

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I use only GXL automotive grade wire made in the USA from wirebarn, you can pick any colors you want it’s just nice to have different colors so you can match it from the switch to the light itself. All the wire in the cab is low amp so you don’t need a heavy gauge, it’s just to trigger the relay. The wires from the box to the lights are thicker gauge since they carry the load.

https://www.wirebarn.com/BLACK-14-Gage-GXL-Wire-_p_76.html

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@JB1 I noticed there's no red wire in the screen shot. Did you already have red wire? I ordered 14gage to match the black.
 

bigred74

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I need to get wire and all that stuff ordered. I ordered a big kit of Deutsch connectors for future projects
 

shadowhawk

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I need to get wire and all that stuff ordered. I ordered a big kit of Deutsch connectors for future projects

I'm seeing now the wiring list will include both 14 and 18ga of each color, if you do like JB did.
 
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JB1

JB1

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I'm seeing now the wiring list will include both 14 and 18ga of each color, if you do like JB did.

You guys should wire yours as you see fit per your load rating of each switch
 

bigred74

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No such thing as over doing it ;) lol
 
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shadowhawk

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edit-- I read the wiring diagram.. never mind.
 

ArizonaWolfe

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Great post! I am going to start ordering the supplies to do the same to my truck. I think I had seen in another post that you pulled all of your wiring from behind the firewall. Did you tap into anything to have power when the ignition was on or did you only pull power from the battery? I am curious if you have any stray voltage or battery dieing issues? Or do the rocker switches prevent the battery from draining?
I would like to put in some rockers that have the bottom illuminated when the ignition is on so I can see the switches. Not sure if there is something from the fuse box that I can rob this power from. I am not a huge fan of tapping into harnesses in the cab and would like to do it the right way. I would love to see a walk through video of your install :) :). Thanks for any help you can provide

Over the year I started adding more and more electrical items to my truck so I decided to add the AEV 6 position switch pod part number 30601000AA to the dash. I designed a schematic, ran it by @IRSmart a few times to check my plan and started ordering the parts.

https://secure.aev-conversions.com/shop/products/interior/switch-pod-for-ram-trucks

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The power distribution box is made by littlefuse HWB60 and worked well. I ran the trigger wires inside the fender like the other oem wires are.

http://www.littelfuse.com/products/...modules/hard-wired-pdm/hwb60/pdm21001lxm.aspx

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The switches are from OTRATTW (Over The River and Thru The Woods)

https://otrattw.net/LOWER-INDEPENDENT-LIGHT-UPPER-DEPENDENT-LIGHT-SWITCH-ONLY/

The rockers are Contura XIV, they have a good feel to them and have a "separation" molded in to distinguish upper or lower.

https://otrattw.net/CONTURA-XIV-ROCKER-ONLY/

I used @kad method of entering the cab via a rubber boot.

http://www.ramforum.com/threads/ins...nning-wires-into-the-cab.117923/#post-1696482

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I routed the wire bundle behind the head unit and up thru the top of the center stack. I then added the mating connector to allow easy removal of the switch pod.

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shadowhawk

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both JB1 and I used a tap-a-fuse into one of the always on fuses for accessories so they can be turned on regardless of the truck running, and then used a switched power fuse for the toggle illumination when one of the accessories was on. This helped eliminate battery drain issues.
 

ArizonaWolfe

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For the 12 ga. power into the fuse box that splits into the 7 fuses (16. Ga). What did you do to make that connection? Did you solder all the cables together or use some type of crimp connection? Thanks in advance for the help!
 
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