Leaving in 4WD Auto - if so transfer case wear? More frequent service?

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corneileous

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Four wheel should only be engaged during snow or after it, not on dry or plowed roads, those transfer cases were not built for all wheel drive. You will burn out the transfer case if you keep going.

That’s only for your typical non-auto transfer case though. They made these like that on purpose so you don’t burn the t-case up but the only problem with that is the extreme wear of the clutch packs from constantly engaging and disengaging irregardless of the mode used.


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Rader

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Hi
My wife's 2014 1500 was just at the dealer for a couple of new manifolds - another topic. While their they must have checked the differential - they found that the fluid was burning/burnt and recommended that it be changed. Its at 122,000 KM now and I was planning on doing this at the recommended 192,000 KM but I'm glad they caught it.

They said that it burnt because I leave it in 4WD auto. I have done this off and on - always in the winter. I didn't know this wasn't recommended. I was trying to ensure that if my wife needs 4WD it will be their automatically.

Do you leave yours in 4WD auto for any length of time?

The dealer suggests putting it in 4WD only if there is a chance that it will be "slippery". We live in Alberta - there is a chance of it being "slippery" almost every day of the year.

If I wanted to continue to leave it in 4WD - at least for the winter - would changing the transfer case oil more frequently help to prevent damage? If so how frequent?

Thanks for the help.



What does the dealer think is causing all this heat? In 4WD auto the front differential disconnect locks up, the ring and pinion turn all the time. The ring carrier and pinion are both mounted in bearings, so the carrier and pinion are running free they are not under load except on the rare occasion when 4X4 auto actually applies torque to the front driveline. If the bearings are not bad or the gear set is not set up wrong to the point of making funny sounds the differential should not heat to the point the oil is burnt smelling.

Plenty of 4X4s, for example Jeep WJs and JKs do not have front disconnects so the front diff turns all the time, not to mention the rear differential always turns and is always under load so turning continuously is not a problem for a differential.

For what it's worth my opinion...I have had 4X4s with some type of electric or vacuum front axle disconnect, when it is disconnected if working properly only the left axle shaft and spiders and side gears spin. I have also had vehicles like Jeep WJ and JK that do not have disconnect so the ring and pinion always turn. From personal observation the lube front lube gets black quicker in a differential with disconnect than a front diff that continuously turns the ring and pinion.

I believe the reason for this is the small diameter side gears and pinion gears do not have friction reducing bearings, without bearings they created localized rather high heat on the lube that over time makes it look dirty and smell.

Another possible worth mention is when an assembly person sets up a differential gear set sometimes the preload on the pinion bearings is above what it should be, in a worse case the pinion bearing burn up, in a less severe case the bearing run hot until they wear in and develop some running clearance, this can cause the original oil to smell burnt.
 
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JD Mark

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Four wheel should only be engaged during snow or after it, not on dry or plowed roads, those transfer cases were not built for all wheel drive. You will burn out the transfer case if you keep going.

I'm no expert, but wouldn't one have problems with axle joints, differential, etc from running on dry pavement long before the t case has problems?
 

Rader

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I'm no expert, but wouldn't one have problems with axle joints, differential, etc from running on dry pavement long before the t case has problems?

I am surprised at how uninformed owners seem to be about the difference between the TWO DIFFERENT transfer cases used in Ram 1500 PUs. The clutch driven five position transfer case (44-44 ) that has "4WD Auto" can be driven on hard surfaces without damaging the components you mention. The other 4 position T case (44-45) is not clutch driven it is a conventional solid lock up T case it cannot be driven on hard surfaces in 4WD.

From page 159 in my 2015 owners manual.

These electronically shifted transfer cases are designed to be driven in the two wheel drive position (2WD) or four wheel drive position (4WD AUTO) for normal street and highway driving conditions on dry, hard surfaced roads.
 

JD Mark

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I am surprised at how uninformed owners seem to be about the difference between the TWO DIFFERENT transfer cases used in Ram 1500 PUs. The clutch driven five position transfer case (44-44 ) that has "4WD Auto" can be driven on hard surfaces without damaging the components you mention. The other 4 position T case (44-45) is not clutch driven it is a conventional solid lock up T case it cannot be driven on hard surfaces in 4WD.

From page 159 in my 2015 owners manual.

These electronically shifted transfer cases are designed to be driven in the two wheel drive position (2WD) or four wheel drive position (4WD AUTO) for normal street and highway driving conditions on dry, hard surfaced roads.

I don't own any 1500s...well Ram 1550s anyways.
 

tomb

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So I’m reading that the 1500’s Stability Control just uses the brakes so the 4wd auto isn’t a direct help but engaging all 4 wheels in an emergency situation surely can’t be a bad thing.

So if I have it set in Auto 4wd for 9 months of the year will more frequent transfer case maintenance prevent damage? Or is it best to minimize its usage and just go day by day - hoping my wife remembers to turn it on when needed. While it’s nice to keep the wife safe, I really don’t want to have to replace a transfer case.
I leave mine in 4wd auto for most of the winter in Ontario-and will use it its pouring rain any time of year. Thats one of the reasons I bought my Bighorn was for 4wdauto. 4wdlock doesnt allow the wheels to spin independently and can cause binding on corners. Tell your wife to keep safe and keep using 4wdauto when winter hits again. I am sure someone will chime in and correct me or add better info! LOL
 

tomb

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Not to sound more dummer Then I think I am but. I don’t live in Alberta but I still am in Canada. But why wouldn’t you just drive in 2wd 95 %of the time
I only put on 4wd auto during snow on the road. 4wd lock when I am caught in a snow bank. And 4wd low when I pull my travel trailer out of mud.

Am I doing something wrong?????
Not at all-I put mine in 4wdauto when road is snow covered-or iced--I have yet to use 4wdlock-and wouldnt unless snow was very deep or god forbid stuck!
 

tomb

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Thanks.
Airdrie - nice to hear from someone close by - I’m just north of you in Didsbury. You’ve never used 4 auto yet?

What about 4 auto causes more wear? Does it only wear when it kicks into 4wd? Or is something always moving in 4 auto that wears? Is 4 auto different than AWD?

I always assumed that 4 auto would be safer (when 4wd is needed) but is it? Does being in 4wd improve how the stability control works? Does stability control only apply brake or does it send power to the wheels too?

If it is safer it would likely be worth the wear and extra maintenance (if helpful) but if it’s not...

Thanks for the help.
 

tomb

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from what ive been told-and from my mechanic as well -the 4wdauto only engages when the rear tires sense slippage-instantly-and when theydont it is effectively off.Now the front differential may stay engaged at all times which I dot know if that means anything wear wise-I am not a mechanic -I do swear by the 4wdauto though-in rain or light snow-anything heavier I would go to the 4wdhigh . Ive gotten through 7 winters with the auto in lots of snow and ice though. CHEERS!
 

Toddbigboytruck

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Not at all-I put mine in 4wdauto when road is snow covered-or iced--I have yet to use 4wdlock-and wouldnt unless snow was very deep or god forbid stuck!
Thank you. I have been in this forum since I got my ram February 2019. And I have learn so much and for the most part i am doing this thing right.

Thank you again
 

rustedandrotten

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I live in Scotland, like Canada it is pretty wet and snowy here. I have run my '16 Sport in 4WD Auto since I bought it, 100K Km now, yes you might get 1 or 2 MPG more in 2WD but roads here are always slippery especially roundabouts where diesel spills on wet roads make the truck step out very wide in 2WD!! As a safety issue, the 4WD Auto keeps it on the black stuff shiny side up! Only comes out when I know I am on a long haul and the weather is going to be dry.
Checked axles and transfer box a couple of weeks ago and no issues or funny burning smells!
 

Judy

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Not to be a jerk but, do you have the Operators Manual? If not, I'm sure any FCA dealership would be able to answer that question pronto.

Now, as for your wife not knowing about the trucks operation.....that one is on you. Show her.

My wife can drive my truck, my Harley and she can run any gun in the house.[emoji851]
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JD Mark

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I am surprised at how uninformed owners seem to be about the difference between the TWO DIFFERENT transfer cases used in Ram 1500 PUs. The clutch driven five position transfer case (44-44 ) that has "4WD Auto" can be driven on hard surfaces without damaging the components you mention. The other 4 position T case (44-45) is not clutch driven it is a conventional solid lock up T case it cannot be driven on hard surfaces in 4WD.

From page 159 in my 2015 owners manual.

These electronically shifted transfer cases are designed to be driven in the two wheel drive position (2WD) or four wheel drive position (4WD AUTO) for normal street and highway driving conditions on dry, hard surfaced roads.

Thought about this a bit more...this still doesn't help the OP. The dealer said the front diff fluid is burnt, not the t case.

Are there clutches in the diff?
 

Rader

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Thought about this a bit more...this still doesn't help the OP. The dealer said the front diff fluid is burnt, not the t case.

Are there clutches in the diff?

I will answer you like that was a serious question, NO!

Context is everything my friend, my post that you quote was specifically in reply to post #24.

Perhaps you would be better served by reading the thread, I addressed the burnt differential fluid previously in this thread, see post #22.
.
 
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