Seized bolt on lower control arm... help

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Matt Chang

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So I ordered a rancho quick lift suspension kit, only 1.2-2" so that my new tires won't rub (I'm getting either 33s, 34s, or 35s) and as I tried installing the front shocks, I got stuck because the passenger side bolt that connects the strut to the lower control arm is seized up in the bushing. I spent maybe thirty minutes hitting it with a rubber mallet and metal hammer, caked it in b'laster, tried using my blowtorch to heat up the head of the bolt to hit it out after. I have a Dewalt impact wrench and tried getting the bolt to rotate within the bushing with that, but it won't budge even on its highest torque setting. Just kind of stuck with what to do at this point.. Should I just buy some new bushings and bolt and just cut the old one out? Am I supposed to disconnect the sway bar or is there something connected to the lower control arm that is putting pressure on the strut? Please help!!
 

KeepRight

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So I ordered a rancho quick lift suspension kit, only 1.2-2" so that my new tires won't rub (I'm getting either 33s, 34s, or 35s) and as I tried installing the front shocks, I got stuck because the passenger side bolt that connects the strut to the lower control arm is seized up in the bushing. I spent maybe thirty minutes hitting it with a rubber mallet and metal hammer, caked it in b'laster, tried using my blowtorch to heat up the head of the bolt to hit it out after. I have a Dewalt impact wrench and tried getting the bolt to rotate within the bushing with that, but it won't budge even on its highest torque setting. Just kind of stuck with what to do at this point.. Should I just buy some new bushings and bolt and just cut the old one out? Am I supposed to disconnect the sway bar or is there something connected to the lower control arm that is putting pressure on the strut? Please help!!
Upload pictures for us to help.

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daveray9

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So I ordered a rancho quick lift suspension kit, only 1.2-2" so that my new tires won't rub (I'm getting either 33s, 34s, or 35s) and as I tried installing the front shocks, I got stuck because the passenger side bolt that connects the strut to the lower control arm is seized up in the bushing. I spent maybe thirty minutes hitting it with a rubber mallet and metal hammer, caked it in b'laster, tried using my blowtorch to heat up the head of the bolt to hit it out after. I have a Dewalt impact wrench and tried getting the bolt to rotate within the bushing with that, but it won't budge even on its highest torque setting. Just kind of stuck with what to do at this point.. Should I just buy some new bushings and bolt and just cut the old one out? Am I supposed to disconnect the sway bar or is there something connected to the lower control arm that is putting pressure on the strut? Please help!!
Its cheap for the bushings and bolts on rockauto. I think I have an extra one if you need just 1. Cut it out, dont waste your time.

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daveray9

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Oh... with mine, the cam bolts were also frozen. Id check those because you will need an allignment right after. If those are frozen too just replace the arms. You will be able to paint them a cool color before install. Last time I check mevos were about 300 for both sides w the ball joints.

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I've had luck with a 1:1 mix of ATF and acetone as a penetrant instead of using store bought stuff (keep any torch away from the acetone if you try this) Be careful with heat around the bushing if you are not planning on replacing because of the rubber. Keep the nut on the end of the bolt and try to use a large hammer to hit it (Like a 4lb mini sledge or bigger if you have one) after you let it soak. Even if you mess up the bolt but get it out it's easier to replace a bolt than it is to replace the bushing. If nothing works than your options are to replace that bushing or replace the entire lower control arm with one complete with new bushings. Like daveray said, the lower control arm cam bolts could be frozen too, these bolts are about $45.00 per pair for just the bolts if you need to cut them. I just did LCAs in my 2012 and used cutting torches to cut through the bushing, burn all of the rubber, and then get the sleeve red hot before hitting the bolt out with a mini sledge as I did not want to pay $90.00 for 4 bolts. These bolts will need to be free for alignment adjustment.

Good luck
 
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daveray9

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I've had luck with a 1:1 mix of ATF and acetone as a penetrant instead of using store bought stuff (keep any torch away from the acetone if you try this) Be careful with heat around the bushing if you are not planning on replacing because of the rubber. Keep the nut on the end of the bolt and try to use a large hammer to hit it (Like a 4lb mini sledge or bigger if you have one) after you let it soak. Even if you mess up the bolt but get it out it's easier to replace a bolt than it is to replace the bushing. If nothing works than your options are to replace that bushing or replace the entire lower control arm with one complete with new bushings. Like daveray said, the lower control arm cam bolts could be frozen too, these bolts are about $45.00 per pair for just the bolts if you need to cut them. I just did LCAs in my 2012 and used cutting torches to cut through the bushing, burn all of the rubber, and then get the sleeve red hot before hitting the bolt out with a mini sledge as I did not want to pay $90.00 for 4 bolts. These bolts will need to be free for alignment adjustment.

Good luck

Damn... good idea on the Cam bolts. Wish I thought of that...
 

madtrucker2016

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I would just cut it out and get new bolt and bushing. But if you like rolling around your garage floor for hours bashing your knuckles trying to remove it. Repair shop would just cut that sucker out faster and less stress on you
 
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I would just cut it out and get new bolt and bushing. But if you like rolling around your garage floor for hours bashing your knuckles trying to remove it. Repair shop would just cut that sucker out faster and less stress on you

If the shaft of the bolt is seized in the bushing sleeve, you'll still be stuck swapping the bushing or getting the bolt out if im not mistaken
 
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I would just cut it out and get new bolt and bushing. But if you like rolling around your garage floor for hours bashing your knuckles trying to remove it. Repair shop would just cut that sucker out faster and less stress on you

Sorry, missed the part when you said that you would need a new bushing if bolt is cut.
 

CincyZach

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So I ordered a rancho quick lift suspension kit, only 1.2-2" so that my new tires won't rub (I'm getting either 33s, 34s, or 35s) and as I tried installing the front shocks, I got stuck because the passenger side bolt that connects the strut to the lower control arm is seized up in the bushing. I spent maybe thirty minutes hitting it with a rubber mallet and metal hammer, caked it in b'laster, tried using my blowtorch to heat up the head of the bolt to hit it out after. I have a Dewalt impact wrench and tried getting the bolt to rotate within the bushing with that, but it won't budge even on its highest torque setting. Just kind of stuck with what to do at this point.. Should I just buy some new bushings and bolt and just cut the old one out? Am I supposed to disconnect the sway bar or is there something connected to the lower control arm that is putting pressure on the strut? Please help!!

Heat expands metal, so heating the bolt just made it tighter in the hole. Heat around the bolt to make the hole bigger.
 

KeepRight

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So I ordered a rancho quick lift suspension kit, only 1.2-2" so that my new tires won't rub (I'm getting either 33s, 34s, or 35s) and as I tried installing the front shocks, I got stuck because the passenger side bolt that connects the strut to the lower control arm is seized up in the bushing. I spent maybe thirty minutes hitting it with a rubber mallet and metal hammer, caked it in b'laster, tried using my blowtorch to heat up the head of the bolt to hit it out after. I have a Dewalt impact wrench and tried getting the bolt to rotate within the bushing with that, but it won't budge even on its highest torque setting. Just kind of stuck with what to do at this point.. Should I just buy some new bushings and bolt and just cut the old one out? Am I supposed to disconnect the sway bar or is there something connected to the lower control arm that is putting pressure on the strut? Please help!!
All the advice is great! You might consider not relying on an air or cordless impact. My hardest working tool, 1/2" drive 16" breaker bar and at times with help from a 3' pipe. I'm a 35 year jet mech... Impacts are great, but not really used for the type of force that you need... Especially for removal. Once the nut is lose, then use the impact.

If you cut the bolts/nuts great... Still invest in a1/2" drive set of tools... NOT horror fright...craftsman, snap on, even husky.

Upload pics, I'd like to see - what did you end up doing to get them off?

STKR

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Matt Chang

Matt Chang

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Thanks everybody for the advice! Sorry I haven't been able to get back to everybody on here, been swamped between school and work, and just started a volunteering opportunity at the hospital as well. I don't want to have to go through the hassle of taking my wheels off just to not be able to get the bolts out again without knowing I will be able to, so I ordered two bushings kits, (not gonna chance it that the drivers side might get stuck), and I plan on just cutting them out this weekend and replacing both bushings. The truck is a used truck too, so I figure replacing the bushings wouldn't hurt. I will post pics of before and after with my bushings and truck after I install the shocks this weekend. I got two Monroe StrutMate bushing kits for both front lower control arms...
 
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Matt Chang

Matt Chang

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Found your problem, get a Milwaukee for impacts.


Dewalt makes a decent 18V drill however.
Yeah hahaha its my younger brothers, I don't want to have to buy my own toolset yet. I go to school close enough to my parents so I just go home and use their stuff :laughing1:
 

T_Unit114

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I had this the first time I tried to level my truck. After 3 hours and various tools (even my 36" breaker bar couldn't budge the bolt. It just spun the rubber inside the bushing sleeve [emoji1787]) I took a cutoff wheel to the sumbitch. I then burned out the rubber bushing enough to drive the bolt and center sleeve out with my air hammer and that allowed me to deform the hell out of the outer sleeve enough to drive it out. After finding my struts and coils both being shot and rusted, I ditched the pre load spacer kit and currently have bilsteins on order. I'm planning on doing both strut lower bushings and bolts and both camber bolts and bushings on each side. I'm gonna need more map gas [emoji1787] and some extra sanity.

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daveray9

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I had this the first time I tried to level my truck. After 3 hours and various tools (even my 36" breaker bar couldn't budge the bolt. It just spun the rubber inside the bushing sleeve [emoji1787]) I took a cutoff wheel to the sumbitch. I then burned out the rubber bushing enough to drive the bolt and center sleeve out with my air hammer and that allowed me to deform the hell out of the outer sleeve enough to drive it out. After finding my struts and coils both being shot and rusted, I ditched the pre load spacer kit and currently have bilsteins on order. I'm planning on doing both strut lower bushings and bolts and both camber bolts and bushings on each side. I'm gonna need more map gas [emoji1787] and some extra sanity.

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Let me know where you get the camber bolts from, havent found a decent price anywhere!!

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