doing an auto to spicer 3053a swap

ok buying the trans this weekend. if anyone is somewhat local to the Beaumont Tx area with an sae 3 flywheel and housing for b series cummins as well as the starter to match id be happy to hear what you want for it.

also if someone wants to swap my fairly new 4.10 srw D80 for a 3.55 drw D80 bring it by and ill do the work on swapping the two.

anyway going with this trans and 3.55 gear to keep me in the proper rpm range with a much closer 4-5 gear so i can use either at 65mph

current set up sucks. 3-4 is 1000 rpm drop so 2500 rpm in 3rd only gets me a hair over 50mph and drops to 1500 rpm when i shift. so when pulling a grade its near impossible to maintain speed as ill just slip the converter trying to stay in over drive but moving to fast to down shift.

the 3053a and 3.55 final drive will put me at 2500 rpm in 4th at 65 and 2000 rpm in 5th at 65mph... current set up is 2000 rmp at 65 but will over rev if i downshift without slowing way down

also if anyone has any pointers on adding a mechanical clutch pedal to a 2nd gen id love to hear it as they only came with hydro. (seen a few 10 speed swaps so i know there is a way)

finally blew my 47re, now for the uliamate 5 speed swap

truck has changed since my last post, its now been fully converted to a one ton. the spicer 3053a swap is now under way. so far the only issue is having a flywheel cusom machined to clear the input shaft a bit... i could shorten the input shaft but id like to instal the transmission 100% un modified for ease of replacement if needed later.

here is a the truck currently and the area of the flywheel that need to be machined off... that raised area is causing contact with the splines and stopping me from being able to bolt everything up by just about 1/8th of an inch. so removing that lip and countersinking it with a 2" hole will work perfectly with some wiggle room

this will leave the exact thickness of the pilot bushing when im done and leave clearance for the 1.5 10 spline input shaft to clear if necessary

ok got the flywheel machined, got pedals now mocking everything up fits like it should

more info here, ill be mosting posting part numbers and ino here due to more interest here.

https://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94-98-powertrain/2502599-doing-auto-spicer-3053a-swap.html

well that flywheel was all wrong and a total waste of money and time.
here are the part numbers in the final build to attach the spicer 3053a to a 6bt cummins in a 1996 dodge ram

flywheel housing 3925223
flywheel Cummins Flywheel 3935205
clutch 04-107L.2 from phoenix friction
starter 6573

more details here

https://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94-98-powertrain/2502599-doing-auto-spicer-3053a-swap.html

won't be long and this will be ready for a test drive.

final product. im extremely happy with this swap.

So what vehicle does this transmission come out of? Also what is the benefit to this swap rather than a 4500, 5600 or G56 swap?

dodge dude94 said:

So what vehicle does this transmission come out of? Also what is the benefit to this swap rather than a 4500, 5600 or G56 swap?

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came out of a M35A2 military Deuce and a half.

has a lower than normal OD (5th gear), lower 1st-3rd. lower reverse. all lower than a NV4500. has 1.5" 10 spline input and output shafts. far more gear surface. cheaper parts. cheaper transmission far stronger than anything dodge ever used, for less cost. (except for conversion cost)

its mostly better in every way for towing. usues a SAE 3 housing so 13" clutch is standard. could be used with a 14" as some custom clutch/flywheel combos exist. standard oem medium duty clutches in 13" good for 750+ ft lbs of torque at around $250 for a complete clutch kit is hard to beat.

nathantc said:

came out of a M35A2 military Deuce and a half.

has a lower than normal OD (5th gear), lower 1st-3rd. lower reverse. all lower than a NV4500. has 1.5" 10 spline input and output shafts. far more gear surface. cheaper parts. cheaper transmission far stronger than anything dodge ever used, for less cost. (except for conversion cost)

its mostly better in every way for towing. usues a SAE 3 housing so 13" clutch is standard. could be used with a 14" as some custom clutch/flywheel combos exist. standard oem medium duty clutches in 13" good for 750+ ft lbs of torque at around $250 for a complete clutch kit is hard to beat.

View attachment 190222

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So what you're saying is that it basically gives you the drivetrain of a medium duty truck.

Wicked.
What do you use your rig for? Hot shotting?

dodge dude94 said:

So what you're saying is that it basically gives you the drivetrain of a medium duty truck.

Wicked.
What do you use your rig for? Hot shotting?

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yes, i transport RVs and other items. mostly large 5th wheels. seems the truck should be able to handle it but in reality no pickup was made for 100% full time towing.

now the way i have my truck built the drive shaft itself should be the weakest part of the drivetrain. im leaving it that way because its also the cheapest part of the drive trian.

ive also removed the OEM fuel tank. running off the 100 gallon freightliner tank ok the back. its actually tied in to the oem fuel guage as well. in the oem fuel tanks location is now a large air tank and two viair 485c compressors. its nice to be able to use a impact for tire changes and keep tires correct at any time need.

when the two viair 485s die, and they will, i now have a pto option and will set up a large compressor head from a shop compressor, to run off a pto shaft for even more, much faster air.

Just coming into this and what an awesome build! Keep it updated. I enjoyed the pictures and read.

96Rammy said:

Just coming into this and what an awesome build! Keep it updated. I enjoyed the pictures and read.

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there is a lot more on the cummins forum but yeah, i just cant buy a truck id 100% trust that has all that i need ready to go. so build it lol but thanks for looking.

8k lb test for 200 miles in hill country today. absolutely love the gearing, except for the 3rd-4th shift. 1000 rpm drop. all other shifts are much closer around 500-600 rpm drop. so i just run at 2k rpm at 30 mph and 2300 at 35 mph. otherwise i get to much gear roll over noise in 4th. seems anything under 2k rpm sounds like gravel in a can lol... i know this has a lot to do with my single mass flywheel and full ceramic clutch. its all quite tight.. i also need a new harmonic dampener which makes it a bit worse im sure.

other than that i find myself picking up speed when going uphill as im used to pushing the go pedal much harder than i need to now. i have to hold the pedal to the floor to get the egt's up to 1200 now, and by then im about redline on the tach.. holding steady up a 7% grade, at 65mph with the (8000 lb dry weight on the sticker) 5th wheel my egt's never go over 1000* pre turbo at about 20-25 psi and 2100 rpm. this is far better than what im used to... only thing is my truck starts to defuel at about 2250 rpm and its noticable

so now im trying to decide on 3k or 4k govener springs, and i know its time for injectors at 400k miles on the stock ones lol just don't know if i should go back with stock or something else. im not a 12v cummins guru.