blend door actuator locations

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Hemi395

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What you could do is turn the key on/engine off with the fan down low and switch the passengers side temp from hot to cold slowly and then back to hot. If it’s that actuator you will hear the clicking. If not, which I’m hoping it’s not, do the same thing drivers temp control....
 

BlownGP

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What you could do is turn the key on/engine off with the fan down low and switch the passengers side temp from hot to cold slowly and then back to hot. If it’s that actuator you will hear the clicking. If not, which I’m hoping it’s not, do the same thing drivers temp control....

I did what you said. Just turn the truck to the on potion and I guess the actuators do a check and I heard the tapping. Took the glove box out and thought it was that one. un-hooked the actuator with the plug still in it and it was working.

So the one tapping is of course the one behind the HVAC. Makes sense with how cold the air is on the passenger side.

Going to get some estimates soon. Could I do it myself with the help of youtube, yeah but I don't know if I could get it done in a weekend. lol

The good thing is. It doesn't get real cold here. Maybe once every few weeks. Then it's back up to 50 or 60.


As far as part numbers for the actuators. Are they all the same thing just different locations?

Thanks for all your help.
 
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Hemi395

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No problem[emoji106]

Damn, well that sucks. So stupid they have plastic gears inside.

I believe all the actuators are the same PN but I'm not 100% sure of that. If the dash has to come out I would replace the recirculation actuator while it's out too because that one also requires removing the dash to replace. I think the actuators are like $40 for Mopar ones. Might want to PM Benny at allmoparparts.

I hate to completely get the "might as well" bug going but you might want to consider replacing the evaporator and heater core while its out.....
 

BlownGP

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No problem[emoji106]

Damn, well that sucks. So stupid they have plastic gears inside.

I believe all the actuators are the same PN but I'm not 100% sure of that. If the dash has to come out I would replace the recirculation actuator while it's out too because that one also requires removing the dash to replace. I think the actuators are like $40 for Mopar ones. Might want to PM Benny at allmoparparts.

I hate to completely get the "might as well" bug going but you might want to consider replacing the evaporator and heater core while its out.....

Yeah, good idea. Will definitely do that.

I'm at 100K now, so I would imagine the evaporator and heater core probably are going to go out soon.
 

BlownGP

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Well had a local mechanic shop change the back blend door. It's a place I've known a while and really only mechanics I trust. Good people.

Also changed the Evap because it had some pin holes in it.
Everything is working fine now.

Hope it last another few years, because I want another ram... lol
 
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prius4life

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Hey, hopefully this will help someone in the future. 2010 ram 1500 4x4 cab 5.7 hemi center console shifter

PROBLEM: Passenger side heat/air would not turn on unless the truck had been running for several minutes. Grinding noise was heard behind dash. Eventually resulted in it never coming on and the defrost stopped working entirely.

SUSPECTED ISSUE: We believed the dreaded 5th actuator on the back of the box was broken. (We were correct).

REPAIR: We dropped the dash off (several helpful videos on this)[may want to remove seats, we didn't but the extra room would have been nice]. We were afraid we would have to drain the refrigerant in order to move the box out where we could replace the part. We did NOT have to drain the system. We undid the bolts in the engine bay except for the one in between the ac lines. We disconnected the plastic vent/air transport (located on drivers side on the bottom of the box)[it is a pain to take off and put back on but still better than rechargingthe system]. This allowed us to swing the box out and pull it in (the ac lines and heater core lines will come in the truck a couple of inches)[part of our box was melted a bit to the firewall and took a bit of encouraging to get off] enough to access the actuator. We used a dewalt 90° angle bit holder with one longer phillips bit and one short one to back the screws out and replace the actuator. The actuator arm was broken off and stuck in the box. Used needle nose pliers to remove.

Hopefully this helps someone in changing out that actuator on the back of the box.

SIDE NOTE: There is a gray plug on the passenger side door. Ours had tape around it. I started to unplug it and stopped because it didn't need to be unplugged. Apparently I didn't push it back together enough (didn't recall pulling it apart any at all) but apparently I did. It knocked out the instrument cluster, the 4 wheel drive, caused the wipers to turn on and not stop, and other problems that caused my dad (it is my dad's truck lol) to have an extra day of trouble shooting. Truck also was driveable with all of the stuff messed up. Hopefully no one else make this mistake lol.
 

BlownGP

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Hey, hopefully this will help someone in the future. 2010 ram 1500 4x4 cab 5.7 hemi center console shifter

PROBLEM: Passenger side heat/air would not turn on unless the truck had been running for several minutes. Grinding noise was heard behind dash. Eventually resulted in it never coming on and the defrost stopped working entirely.

SUSPECTED ISSUE: We believed the dreaded 5th actuator on the back of the box was broken. (We were correct).

REPAIR: We dropped the dash off (several helpful videos on this)[may want to remove seats, we didn't but the extra room would have been nice]. We were afraid we would have to drain the refrigerant in order to move the box out where we could replace the part. We did NOT have to drain the system. We undid the bolts in the engine bay except for the one in between the ac lines. We disconnected the plastic vent/air transport (located on drivers side on the bottom of the box)[it is a pain to take off and put back on but still better than rechargingthe system]. This allowed us to swing the box out and pull it in (the ac lines and heater core lines will come in the truck a couple of inches)[part of our box was melted a bit to the firewall and took a bit of encouraging to get off] enough to access the actuator. We used a dewalt 90° angle bit holder with one longer phillips bit and one short one to back the screws out and replace the actuator. The actuator arm was broken off and stuck in the box. Used needle nose pliers to remove.

Hopefully this helps someone in changing out that actuator on the back of the box.

SIDE NOTE: There is a gray plug on the passenger side door. Ours had tape around it. I started to unplug it and stopped because it didn't need to be unplugged. Apparently I didn't push it back together enough (didn't recall pulling it apart any at all) but apparently I did. It knocked out the instrument cluster, the 4 wheel drive, caused the wipers to turn on and not stop, and other problems that caused my dad (it is my dad's truck lol) to have an extra day of trouble shooting. Truck also was driveable with all of the stuff messed up. Hopefully no one else make this mistake lol.

Yeah, I watched a few videos and it didn't look SUPER hard but knowing me. I would brake something or something doesn't fit right, and it will take way longer than it should. hahahah
 
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