14' R/T- Alignment issues and undercarriage vibration

Slickity79 · Dec 6, 2019

I have a 2014 ram r/t with a mcg 2/4 spring kit thats been on it since 2015. I started getting this noise that seems to be coming from the rear about 3 months after I put viking double adjustables all the way around. You can feel it slighlty as well, it's not the spare and seems to have all the symptoms of bad control arm bushings. I looked at them and they looked okay, but after a couple more weeks of that noise, I ordered a new set of arms. I put them on last night, took it in for an alignment today and am now being told they need to spread the crossmember and do a frame setup to get the alignment in spec. Also, after the alignment the rear noise is back. They're saying the camber and caster are maxed out, so they left it except the tow. WTF? This is the same alignment shop thats done this truck at the same height at least twice, and they always said they got it in, but the camber needed a tweak. Also, now it pulls to the right, sorta the icing I suppose...taking it back Mon but wanted to see if anyone else has had these issues? Thanks in advance and sorry for the book.

The Q · Dec 7, 2019

Check the track bar and mount.

Slickity79 · Dec 8, 2019

Will do, I had the axle side off to change the control arms and that side looked fine, I have the spohn adjustable track bar. Thanks I'll check the other end, crossed my mind before the alignment but then didn't do it.

Wild one · Dec 9, 2019

Slickity79 said:
Will do, I had the axle side off to change the control arms and that side looked fine, I have the spohn adjustable track bar. Thanks I'll check the other end, crossed my mind before the alignment but then didn't do it.

Check the Spohn bar over close,they have been known to break.They are a cheap bar and you get what you pay for with Spohns equipment.

circuitguy · Jan 26, 2020

First get a different alignment guy. Your front camber and caster should not be maxed out with only a two inch front drop, never seen this happen. Also I bet your pulling to one side because they only adjusted one tie rod end to obtain the correct the toe. Have them recenter the wheel and then re adjust both tie rod ends evenly to get the tow back to spec. As to the rear noise, I suggest that your readjust the pan hard bar to center the rear axle then tighten securely to rule that out as to the noise problem. I believe your noise problem may be because how the rear drop springs get installed. I had this same problem with my Ram "a few months after the rear drop was installed" and found that my rear drop springs were binding during compression due to the angle of the rear axle "and the lower spring perches" being off with the four inch rear drop. I solved the problem with installing a rear axle relocation kit from IHC. This corrected the angle of the rear axle, corrected the pinion angel, allows the rear spring to sit flat in there perches and also reentered the rear axle in the wheel well. This worked for me but before you go that route try turning the rear springs a bit, this may help and it don't cost a thing to try.

Slickity79 · Jan 27, 2020

circuitguy said:
First get a different alignment guy. Your front camber and caster should not be maxed out with only a two inch front drop, never seen this happen. Also I bet your pulling to one side because they only adjusted one tie rod end to obtain the correct the toe. Have them recenter the wheel and then re adjust both tie rod ends evenly to get the tow back to spec. As to the rear noise, I suggest that your readjust the pan hard bar to center the rear axle then tighten securely to rule that out as to the noise problem. I believe your noise problem may be because how the rear drop springs get installed. I had this same problem with my Ram "a few months after the rear drop was installed" and found that my rear drop springs were binding during compression due to the angle of the rear axle "and the lower spring perches" being off with the four inch rear drop. I solved the problem with installing a rear axle relocation kit from IHC. This corrected the angle of the rear axle, corrected the pinion angel, allows the rear spring to sit flat in there perches and also reentered the rear axle in the wheel well. This worked for me but before you go that route try turning the rear springs a bit, this may help and it don't cost a thing to try.

IHC axle relocation "no cut" kit.
View attachment 193003

View attachment 193006

Thanks, I ended up having a no-cut kit installed as I was planning on it anyhow. It coulda been some of that for sure, I believe part of it IS the spare but we'll see. Gotta take it off and go for a ride yet, I already planned on mounting it in the bed because I have a 5th rim to use as a spare. BTW, rides WAY better after the brackets

Slickity79 · Jan 27, 2020

circuitguy said:
First get a different alignment guy. Your front camber and caster should not be maxed out with only a two inch front drop, never seen this happen. Also I bet your pulling to one side because they only adjusted one tie rod end to obtain the correct the toe. Have them recenter the wheel and then re adjust both tie rod ends evenly to get the tow back to spec. As to the rear noise, I suggest that your readjust the pan hard bar to center the rear axle then tighten securely to rule that out as to the noise problem. I believe your noise problem may be because how the rear drop springs get installed. I had this same problem with my Ram "a few months after the rear drop was installed" and found that my rear drop springs were binding during compression due to the angle of the rear axle "and the lower spring perches" being off with the four inch rear drop. I solved the problem with installing a rear axle relocation kit from IHC. This corrected the angle of the rear axle, corrected the pinion angel, allows the rear spring to sit flat in there perches and also reentered the rear axle in the wheel well. This worked for me but before you go that route try turning the rear springs a bit, this may help and it don't cost a thing to try.

IHC axle relocation "no cut" kit.
View attachment 193003

View attachment 193006

+1 on the alignment guy, that was irritating and the guy that did the brackets does alignments so he's in and they're out. I have the IHC front UCAs to get the rest of it back in spec, just waiting on my guy because it'll need aligning again.

circuitguy · Jan 27, 2020

Slickity79 said:
+1 on the alignment guy, that was irritating and the guy that did the brackets does alignments so he's in and they're out. I have the IHC front UCAs to get the rest of it back in spec, just waiting on my guy because it'll need aligning again.

Also make sure that panhard bar bracket that mounts on the axle is tight. There knows to get loose and make a popping or squeaking sound.

Slickity79 · Jan 27, 2020

circuitguy said:
Also make sure that panhard bar bracket that mounts on the axle is tight. There knows to get loose and make a popping or squeaking sound.

Yep, I did that check before the bracket install and all seems good. To be honest, I do feel like the BT bracket could be a little beefier. So here's a tid bit of info, prob been mentioned but the McG bracket is about 6" from center to center and the BT is 4". I'm using the BT so the bar is more level on mine.

14' R/T- Alignment issues and undercarriage vibration

Slickity79

Junior Member

The Q

Senior Member

Slickity79

Junior Member

Wild one

Senior Member

circuitguy

Senior Member

Slickity79

Junior Member

Slickity79

Junior Member

circuitguy

Senior Member

Slickity79

Junior Member

Similar threads

Latest posts

Members online

Forum statistics

Share this page