New Brakes all round

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ricci427

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Truck is at the dealer right now for an oil change, they only charge $18 for the Hemi as I bought is used from them. I have 56,000 miles on the truck, and they called me to say it needs brakes front and back.

I was looking for any posts that might recommend something other than stock parts, the only thing I saw was the package below from gotexhaust.com

https://gotexhaust.com/i-23698983-2009-2018-ram-1500-got-exhaust-performance-brake-package.html

Does anyone have any recomendations on pads and rotars, or package to buy ?


2017, quad cab, express, 56,000 miles
 

Michael

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I second the powerstops. They’re much better then stock.


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I know the voices in my head aren’t real, but man, do they ever come up with some great ideas.
 

LouM

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I just did my "15" this week I used these from rockauto;
POWER STOP CRK2164 (Coated (Additional Protection For Rust Prone Areas)) Evolution Geomet® Coated Kit
About $232 for the full kit front and rear.
I mentioned them in the thread "front brakes"
 

16WhiteQC

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powerstop Z36 kit, best bang for your buck.

Did mine at 18K I think, factory was warped out back and making noise up front.
 

gbark80

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I did the power stop z23 kit. Was right around $375 at summit racing. It was a BIG DIFFERENCE in stopping power. For as heavy as my QC is I joke that it will stop on a dime and give you a nickel back. You just have to strictly follow the bed in instructions to get the best performance out of them.
 

daveray9

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I went with r1 concepts cause they had the black zinc coating... wish I did the z36 package...

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 

Nick@GotExhaust

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We can set you up with just about anything as for brakes. Contact me for a quote or you can order the kit in the link above and use promo code GOTBRAKES15 for 15% off and free shipping!
 

MoparBrent

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I went with EBC stage 3 slotted/dimpled rotors with EBC greenstuff pads. Was a very noticeable difference over stock and worth the money spent

268DB54E-D12A-42B8-A686-4CA14C4D8D27.jpeg

F061FF22-A596-42AC-BEFE-C78DF31B4843.jpeg
 

Smokey613

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I am curious why you need brakes serviced at 56K miles. We are on our 4th RAM and have never had to do any brake work. Granted only one, our 2004 2500 had over 100K miles. The others were just under 100K miles when traded in.
 

Rado

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I Highly recommend WAGNER OE X Pads. A heavy duty use pad and little to no dust ! Rotors I would go Power Stop Coated as mentioned ! IMO STAY away from the low priced PARTS MASTER Brand ! They Rust real bad IMO, Mine are working fine with no warping in 10k miles but the rust on them drives me nuts lol
 
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corneileous

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Not trying to Jack the thread or nothing but, I’m curious- I’m thinking about doing my brakes myself here pretty soon because only being about 26,000 mikes in, my brakes have been making kind of a, not so much a grinding sound, but more like a sticky, noisy groaning sound I guess, when I come to a complete stop. It’s like the pads are sticking to the rotors and not gliding smoothly on the surface of the rotors. They still stop fine, they aren’t warped, and they’re not wearing unevenly, they’re just making to much of a noise and at making too much of a sticking sensation.

Sure, I could just take advantage of my warranty and have them put new brakes on but I really don’t want new of the same thing. I’d much rather have something better than stock anyways.

But since this is on a pickup, aren’t the factory pads a semi-metallic? I see some of you replaced with ceramic pads. I’m assuming this is fine but since they most likely put semi-Metallics on for a reason due to the fact that ceramics aren’t really ideal for trucks and towing because of the fact that when they get hot, the brake fades them inoperable whereas semi-mats will still work when hot.

I don’t pull anything heavy. The only trailer I pull is my little utility trailer that’s not heavy at all even when fully loaded.

Are some of these drilled and slotted rotors made for ceramic brakes? I don’t know, because I’ve never used those fancy rotors. I’ve only used aftermarket factory replacement parts for every brake job I’ve done


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Toolman

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I have the same growling/grabbing issue with my brakes at 35k miles. They work fine, but it sounds like I'm driving a 20 year old boat trailer when I'm stopping, its terrible.
 

MoparBrent

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Not trying to Jack the thread or nothing but, I’m curious- I’m thinking about doing my brakes myself here pretty soon because only being about 26,000 mikes in, my brakes have been making kind of a, not so much a grinding sound, but more like a sticky, noisy groaning sound I guess, when I come to a complete stop. It’s like the pads are sticking to the rotors and not gliding smoothly on the surface of the rotors. They still stop fine, they aren’t warped, and they’re not wearing unevenly, they’re just making to much of a noise and at making too much of a sticking sensation.

Sure, I could just take advantage of my warranty and have them put new brakes on but I really don’t want new of the same thing. I’d much rather have something better than stock anyways.

But since this is on a pickup, aren’t the factory pads a semi-metallic? I see some of you replaced with ceramic pads. I’m assuming this is fine but since they most likely put semi-Metallics on for a reason due to the fact that ceramics aren’t really ideal for trucks and towing because of the fact that when they get hot, the brake fades them inoperable whereas semi-mats will still work when hot.

I don’t pull anything heavy. The only trailer I pull is my little utility trailer that’s not heavy at all even when fully loaded.

Are some of these drilled and slotted rotors made for ceramic brakes? I don’t know, because I’ve never used those fancy rotors. I’ve only used aftermarket factory replacement parts for every brake job I’ve done


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You may have a seized calliper slide pin. I had one rust up and seize at 50,000km so I just decided to upgrade all my brakes at the same time.

Very simple fix if that’s the case
 

corneileous

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You may have a seized calliper slide pin. I had one rust up and seize at 50,000km so I just decided to upgrade all my brakes at the same time.

Very simple fix if that’s the case

But wouldn’t that cause uneven pad wear, though? I had my wheels off not too long ago when I rotated them after doing an oil change and all the pads were wearing evenly, especially inner pad wear vs outer pad wear.

I guess I could pull my front wheels off one of these days and just go ahead and relube up each one of both caliper bolts to see if that helps.


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MoparBrent

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But wouldn’t that cause uneven pad wear, though? I had my wheels off not too long ago when I rotated them after doing an oil change and all the pads were wearing evenly, especially inner pad wear vs outer pad wear.

I guess I could pull my front wheels off one of these days and just go ahead and relube up each one of both caliper bolts to see if that helps.


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It would. Wasn’t sure if you had uneven wear or not. But still wouldn’t hurt to check them all and lube them up
 

PoMansRam

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I am curious why you need brakes serviced at 56K miles. We are on our 4th RAM and have never had to do any brake work. Granted only one, our 2004 2500 had over 100K miles. The others were just under 100K miles when traded in.

A lot of it is climate related. Those of us that live in the rust belt tend to get short brake life. Mine are about shot all the way around on my 2017 Ram 1500 @ 45K miles. I'll definitely have to do pads and rotors all the way around this spring and I did one service on the brakes soon after I bought the truck with 12K miles on it. The caliper pins had little/no lube on them from the factory and the pads were already starting to stick in the brackets that early on.

I'm not into drilled, slotted pretty stuff and have had hit/miss results with "premium" brakes parts as wellas no-name white box cheapies. I shoot for mid range parts anymore. Most important thing about a brake job is your prep work and attention to detail. That's more important than the brand of parts IMO.
 

2016Bighorny

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corneileous

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