rroche1982
Senior Member
is it a not good to put the spacer with the bils?
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Make sure they’re hub centricAs long as you buy quality spacers and preferably hub centric to keep them balanced and minimize any vibrations they should be no problems. There are many people running spacers.
You are most likely going to push your cv shafts way to far down causing binding and possibly other issues. Plus running a lift spacers is hard on the suspension and another 2” lift on top... May as well look at eibach pro lift spring. The spring replaces the factory front springs and can get you 3.5” a lot safer than running the way your talking as it does not push the strut down. It’s a longer springIm setting the bilsteins at 2" and 1.5" spacer, should be 3.5 inches installed correctly.
Angles should be okay right?
are spacers safe to run?
I had stock 275/60r20s and didn’t even have 1/2” clearance to the uca. That’s a 33x10.5. If you run anything wider you need spacers or offset rims. I’m currently running 305/70r18 now but have a -12 offset. Gives me about 3/4” of clearance now. Definitely fix that strut mount though.
Make sure they’re hub centric
You are most likely going to push your cv shafts way to far down causing binding and possibly other issues. Plus running a lift spacers is hard on the suspension and another 2” lift on top... May as well look at eibach pro lift spring. The spring replaces the factory front springs and can get you 3.5” a lot safer than running the way your talking as it does not push the strut down. It’s a longer spring
So am I better off just setting the Bils at 2.8 and taking the spacer off?
Also I thought using the tubular aarms helped?
sooo true put them on should fix it i almost did cuz my bigger tiers rub on that spot I think paints off so don't turn wheels all the way but ur life seems to really hit that spot cuz big tier too I think ok !Youll have to space out the wheels if you want to keep your current set.
For example https://www.americantrucks.com/supreme-suspensions-15-pro-billet-wheel-spacers-0218-ram-1500.html
The whole thing looks like a mess what happened you did nothing on the bottom,you put new on top and nothing new for bottom control arm. your ball joint looks like its going to fail fast on a angle its on and your axle is hooky looking also.
275 is stock width though so that won’t rub anywaysI had put in 275/65/20 it’s a 34” tire no spacer needed. No rubbing. Also have bilstein installed for the level look.
Look up eibach springs for the front if you want 3.5” and yes the arms help with the ball joint but doesn’t change anything else. Merely realigns the upper control arm to the knucklesSo am I better off just setting the Bils at 2.8 and taking the spacer off?
Also I thought using the tubular aarms helped?
275 is stock width though so that won’t rub anyways
Look up eibach springs for the front if you want 3.5” and yes the arms help with the ball joint but doesn’t change anything else. Merely realigns the upper control arm to the knuckles
Yea. Bottom is not needed unless going to long travel suspension. Here’s my setup. 2.5” front and 1” rear. Zone upper control arms and core 4x4 2” extended rear sway bar links. Notice my springs are gray not black. They’re the eibach kit. Bought them through gotexhaustThat's what I was thinking, the aarms were just to help with the ball joint. Not sure why the guy was asking me, why didn't I change the bottom? I was pretty sure that wasn't necessary for what I was trying to accomplish.
well corrected the Bils turned them up to 2.9 and removed the spacers on top of the bils, almost has enough clearance, barely touching the tire. so close
did you get another alignment?