2011 Ram 1500 Laramie - Drained Battery Computer Issue?

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I Have A Truck

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I recently purchased a used 2011 1500 Laramie with 98k miles. The previous owner failed to tell me that the truck was experiencing a draining battery issue. I should have known something was up when he said that he had to replace the starter. But I received a good deal on the truck, so i decided to keep it.

Here's the issue: When I disconnect the battery and recharge it, the battery will remain charged until after I drive the truck a few times. However, if I charge the battery while it is still connected, then the truck will continue to drain and will be dead in several hours. My assumption is that the issue is computer related since the issue seems to reset when I disconnect the battery.

I also assume that it is not a short circuit / grounding issue, because draining would persist regardless of resetting the battery. Just wanted to see what you guys think?

I also hooked up a voltage data logger to see what the battery was doing overnight. Here's two graphs, the first when I "reset" the battery and there are no drainage issues. The second was after driving the truck a few times and then letting it sit.

2020-01-17 EasyLog - Battery Reset.jpg

2020-01-18 EasyLog - After driving shortly.jpg
 

onemc4you

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Sounds like a bad diode trio in alternator.
I have seen a alternator put out 15 volts but zero amps so battery would drain like that.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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@onemc4you, thanks for the suggestion. From looking it up, it seems like that would only cause a lose of voltage if the truck was running. But the battery is only draining when the truck is turned off and sitting for a while. Do you think a bad diode could still impact the battery when the truck is off?
 

OCDTech

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If i'm reading that chart right,(lower one) looks like a significant drain starts soon after logging starts,at the 4.5 hr mark or so, a huge drain lasting for i don't know 20 mins or so happens. If you have this logger and know how to use it, do you know how to check for drain across fuses using a voltage drop method and a fuse voltage drop chart?

https://www.powerprobe.com/fuse-voltage-drop-charts


Best video i've seen on it.
 

OCDTech

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I recently purchased a used 2011 1500 Laramie with 98k miles. The previous owner failed to tell me that the truck was experiencing a draining battery issue. I should have known something was up when he said that he had to replace the starter. But I received a good deal on the truck, so i decided to keep it.

Here's the issue: When I disconnect the battery and recharge it, the battery will remain charged until after I drive the truck a few times. However, if I charge the battery while it is still connected, then the truck will continue to drain and will be dead in several hours. My assumption is that the issue is computer related since the issue seems to reset when I disconnect the battery.

I also assume that it is not a short circuit / grounding issue, because draining would persist regardless of resetting the battery. Just wanted to see what you guys think?

I also hooked up a voltage data logger to see what the battery was doing overnight. Here's two graphs, the first when I "reset" the battery and there are no drainage issues. The second was after driving the truck a few times and then letting it sit.

^^^^^I meant to quote when i posted, but didn't so check post out above.^^^^^^
 

CVX20

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Sometimes(not always) you loose your draw when you disconnect the battery.Then it doesn't show up again until you activate whatever was causing it in the first place.Just for example say it was your rear defrost.You disconnect the battery and charge it.You drive it a few times and nothing happens because you didn't use the rear defrost the few times you drove it.First time you use the defrost your draw is back.Doubtful a computer reset would get rid of your draw.
 
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I Have A Truck

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@CVX20 makes sense, thanks.

I used the method that @OCDTech recommended (thanks again). The weird thing is that I didn't encounter any voltage drop among any of my fuses (maybe all of my multimeters are not sensitive enough). Almost all of my fuses registered as 0 amps. However, I came across two fuses (M10 & M12) that were reading over 30 Microamps. I figured Microamps shouldn't be anything to worry about, but I pulled both of those fuses and haven't had a problem since.

Now I'm stuck figuring out how to stop the parasitic draw. M10 is for the UES/SDARS/DVD/HFM/UGDO/VANITY and M12 for the AMP/RADIO. I'll probably post this issue on a separate thread.
 

OCDTech

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@CVX20 makes sense, thanks.

I used the method that @OCDTech recommended (thanks again). The weird thing is that I didn't encounter any voltage drop among any of my fuses (maybe all of my multimeters are not sensitive enough). Almost all of my fuses registered as 0 amps.

This is because none of those fuses had amp draw through them. You will only see voltage (millivolts) when whatever is on that fuse is on,(current flow). Truck off most everything is off. 0 makes sense. You measured milliamps when something was drawing current ,aka something was on/not sleeping.
 
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@averageguy that was a good suggestion. I bought a load tester and the battery passed.

@CVX20 I think there's a good chance that it's a relay. But at this point, I'm dropping the truck off to a Dodge service center to fix some recalls, so I'm going to have them take a look.
 

averageguy

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@averageguy that was a good suggestion. I bought a load tester and the battery passed.

@CVX20 I think there's a good chance that it's a relay. But at this point, I'm dropping the truck off to a Dodge service center to fix some recalls, so I'm going to have them take a look.
Hopefully they figure it out. Let us know if they fix it.
 

BigRedH2

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Did they figure out what was thé issue..I'm having t he e same problem with my 09 ram...if the I don't crank it and drive it for 2 days the battery is dead and need a charge. I have had my battery, starter snd alternator a checkedtchecked all I good. I have recently had my timp module changed due to my passenger headlight not working
 
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@BigRedH2 Sorry man, I don't have any useful fixes. I checked all of the same things, I had the dealership try to figure it out, and a reputable electrical company. I also had the TIPM replaced. Nothing fixed the issue so I finally just had a master kill switch installed, which I wish I had done sooner. I would have saved a lot of time and headache
 

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