Brakes, Rust, Cables and Starter Motor questions (Long)

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Legal Bill

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Hello everyone. My 1500 is an '05 regular cab with the 5.7 and 192,000 miles. My goal is to make it as reliable as I can by identifying common wear items that might be worn out or borderline. I've replaced a few things already and I have a list of to-do items based on my observations. I'm not sure how far I should go on some of these projects and I'm also not sure who the best parts manufacturers are for the value/quality proposition. I don't want cheap junk, but the Mopar parts seem to cost two or three times what I find on Rock Auto. I hope some folks can make recommendations.

1. Brakes

The fronts look and feel fine. The rears needed to have the parking brake adjusted and I ended up taking the system apart to inspect everything. The rotor faces had rust on the outer and inner 1/2 inch while the middle of the surface area appeared smooth and shiny, suggesting that the pads are not coming into contact evenly. The calipers and carriers are very rusty. I am wondering if I should replace the calipers as well as the rotors, pads. If so, who offers a good reliable product at a good price? Power Stop?

Second rear brake question, my truck has rear anti lock brakes. If i replace the rear calipers, will I need to do something special, or have an OBD II tool to operate the ABS in order to bleed the rear brakes properly?

Third related brake question. Some of my brake lines are rusty, especially in the front. I'm considering replacing the very rusty metal lines. I notice the brake lines have a coating on them. Many of them look great, but may have a spot where I see some rust, especially at the fittings. How much rust should I tolerate before replacing them? Should I also replace the hoses? Is there a supplier that offers a kit that provides accurately pre-bent lines and quality materials?

Fourth, the pedal feels ok, but gets firmer after one pump. I wonder if it needs a power bleeding or a vacuum bleeding, or, again, and OBDII assisted bleeding to get all the air out? Any preference here?

2. Rust.

I see a lot of heavy surface rust under the truck, especially the front end where things are very crowded and cramped. There is some under the bed and at the bumper/trailer hitch area. The bed and trailer hitch area would be reasonably easy to scrape, sand, clean and paint with an anti rust coating. The front looks like it would be a real pain. Have any of you spent the time sanding, cleaning and painting rusted areas under the truck? What coating do you recommend? I see Por 15, Eastwood Rust Encapsulator and a spray on rust converter as the best three options. Any experience or preference? Is it worth trying to scrape sand and paint the underside of the front end?

3. Starter and Cables

The truck seems to have the wrong battery installed. there is no longer any blanket in place, the hold down is missing, and I can't even find the battery temperature sensor. The positive cable has some corrosion. The starter motor and solenoid housings are very rusty and the cable running from the solenoid to the motor is green. So I plan to replace the battery and the starter. Is there a starter motor that you would recommend? I see units ranging form $59 all the way up to over $200. The $110 AC Delco unit at Rock Auto looks like it might be a good value/quality compromise.

Second electrical question, I see on line what appear to be battery cable repair sections that allow you to cut off the first six inches or so of the old cable and splice on a replacement head. Are these repair cables reliable? Is there any benefit to using them over a whole new cable?

If I'm replacing the starter, is there anything else beside the cable i should repalace at the same time? For example,in my parts searches I see a starter relay come up. Should I replace that at the same time?

Thanks very much to those who took the time to read this. I'd appreciate your thoughts and comments.

Best,

Bill
 

McBroom

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Does the truck start everytime you hit the key? If so then I would only replace the cables.
Brakes I would replace the pads on the rear and look at replacing the park brake shoes. It's a drum/rotor combo on the rear. I wouldn't replace the brake lines unless your seeing a leak.
"Keep an eye on them"
Look at the hoses on all 4 corners if the hoses are dry rotted and cracked then replace them.
I also recommend posting pictures of the parts in question so that you can get the best info and answers. Pics are a plus as we can't see what you do and vice versa.

Blue Mule
 
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Legal Bill

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2005
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5.7 Hemi
Thanks McBroom. I'll try to post some pictures. I'm not sure how this ended up in exteriors. I'm sure I posted it in the General Discussion section.
 

McBroom

U.S.Marine Veteran Retired 88-2000
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It's not a big deal. I look at all the different sections for new postings that may otherwise get overlooked.
Let me know how I can help. Can't have the wallet though. Grandkids done took it. Lol

Blue Mule
 
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Legal Bill

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Ha ha. I know that feeling. I'll be doing a deep dive on the truck this weekend and making a list of parts that I will replace. I'll try to take some pictures. This vehicle's mission will be to transport, launch and haul out my boats around Cape Cod. It will be in the salt water for sure. The biggest boat weighs over 5000 pounds loaded on the trailer. I don't want a boat ramp brake failure. I want to address any visible rust now. And I want to make sure the thing will start.
 

panoz3

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I use a power bleeder from Motive Products to flush the brake lines with new fluid. I don't believe the ABS module has to be cycled to bleed it because the power bleeder pushes new fluid through the reservoir and the ABS system on it's way to the brakes. Maybe if the ABS is replaced would you have to cycle it. But I could be wrong.

After I purchased my truck several years back I also wanted to remove and treat the rust. I spent a considerable amount of time under the truck grinding, scraping and brushing the frame to prepare it for paint. I used several wire brushes and cold chisels to remove as much rust as I could. A needle scaler could work great too. After that I applied 2 coats of Rust Bullet Automotive rust inhibitor over everything which is a gray color. Then I applied one coat of Rust Bullet Blackshell in more visible areas to cover the gray. I got under the truck a few weeks ago and the coating is still as solid as the day I applied it 6 years ago. My truck saw many Iowa winters and the Rust Bullet is still fully intact. This stuff works great.

I hope this information from my experience helps you out.
 
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