AlfaOBD

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Dbow20

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I’m having some trouble with my DRLs. I had low beams set and they worked as they should. I switched bulbs to HID and did t want them as my DRL so I switched the location to dedicated. No luck, no DRL lights came on. So I then switched them to high beams and still no drl. Did I mess something up?

Edit: I just switched back to low beams and the drls work. It’s weird that dedicated and high beam did not work. I may try again in the morning because I don’t really like that HIDs will be turning on and off so much with the DRL dropout.
 
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DonnyP

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I’m having some trouble with my DRLs. I had low beams set and they worked as they should. I switched bulbs to HID and did t want them as my DRL so I switched the location to dedicated. No luck, no DRL lights came on. So I then switched them to high beams and still no drl. Did I mess something up?

Edit: I just switched back to low beams and the drls work. It’s weird that dedicated and high beam did not work. I may try again in the morning because I don’t really like that HIDs will be turning on and off so much with the DRL dropout.

Dedicated means that the dedicated wire inside your headlights is wired up to DRL's. What style of headlights do you have? I think for the quads it's usually the high beams that are used. Basically the high beams run at a reduced voltage and act as DRL's.

I wouldn't use your HID "low beams" as the DRL it will probably cause issues. Try the high beam option.

If you have the projector style headlights and you choose the dedicated option its the red wire inside the housings that is activated @ I believe like 6.3v or something. Not sure how they are hooked up from factory though.
 

DonnyP

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I just installed OEM Projector headights that I retrofitted with Diode Dynamic switchback boards, along with Recon OLED tail lights.

I have the switchbacks wired to my DRL's so they are @ 100% brightness during the day and then when I turn my parking lights on, they reduce to 50% for night driving.
The switchbacks work exactly how they should and my fault sense wire is connected.

I kept getting front turn signal bulb out messages and was told I needed to add resistors or get some hyperblink modules from DD to fix this. I came across the door ajar switches in ALFAOBD and I disabled every door ajar switch and it fix my problem with signal out messages. I hope it didn't cause any underlying issues I'm unware of.

The only message I can't get rid of is I now get a parking light out message. When I did my headlights I cut the light board for the side marker lights, so they are no longer used at all.

I get a message/fault like this in AlfaOBD, stating front left and right parking lights short circuit to + battery/Open Circuit. Last test completed unsuccessfully. error present. Failure warning lamp "on":not requested.

I have set all LED's to present, did all the DRL activation steps I pulled from this thread and its working great. I did the fog light dropout and disabled the ajar door switch to fix signal out issue.

I have no clue where to begin or what to try anymore.
 

crash68

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I’m having some trouble with my DRLs. I had low beams set and they worked as they should. I switched bulbs to HID and did t want them as my DRL so I switched the location to dedicated. No luck, no DRL lights came on. So I then switched them to high beams and still no drl. Did I mess something up?

Edit: I just switched back to low beams and the drls work. It’s weird that dedicated and high beam did not work. I may try again in the morning because I don’t really like that HIDs will be turning on and off so much with the DRL dropout.

Aside from what @DonnyP stated, problems have been reported when setting the DRL dropout for the low or high beams.
If your truck originally came with Quad headlights, it's possible to add the dedicated DRL circuits to your truck. I bought the pigtails to plug into the harness connector under the fuse box from M² Mods
The DRLs on my Modifystreet headlights function like stock with drop out.
 

DonnyP

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I’m having some trouble with my DRLs. I had low beams set and they worked as they should. I switched bulbs to HID and did t want them as my DRL so I switched the location to dedicated. No luck, no DRL lights came on. So I then switched them to high beams and still no drl. Did I mess something up?

Edit: I just switched back to low beams and the drls work. It’s weird that dedicated and high beam did not work. I may try again in the morning because I don’t really like that HIDs will be turning on and off so much with the DRL dropout.

Did you follow all of these steps below?



DRLs: (Daytime Running Lights) For “Dedicated” DRLs (Rams with factory projectors) see post #7079

https://www.ramforum.com/posts/2032174/

CBC Features: DRL Configuration

Select “Optional DRL”

CBC Features: DRL Lamp location (several to choose from, high beam, low beam, fog lamp, dedicated and SRT Light Bar) Known working high beam, low beam, turn signal and fog lamp.

CBC Features: DRL Dropout Enabled

Select “yes”

ECU 3: DRL Customer Setting Enable/Disable

Select “yes”

Customer Service Menus: Daytime Running Lights CSM

Select “yes”
 

canadiankodiak700

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Did you follow all of these steps below?



DRLs: (Daytime Running Lights) For “Dedicated” DRLs (Rams with factory projectors) see post #7079

https://www.ramforum.com/posts/2032174/

CBC Features: DRL Configuration

Select “Optional DRL”

CBC Features: DRL Lamp location (several to choose from, high beam, low beam, fog lamp, dedicated and SRT Light Bar) Known working high beam, low beam, turn signal and fog lamp.

CBC Features: DRL Dropout Enabled

Select “yes”

ECU 3: DRL Customer Setting Enable/Disable

Select “yes”

Customer Service Menus: Daytime Running Lights CSM

Select “yes”
Did I just read this right? I have quads, it looks like what you just posted means I could get rid of the drl shutting off when I signal? It could rem in on the way it should? I hate the drop out when signaling.

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Dbow20

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My lights were originally projector headlights. I have changed them to an aftermarket set of OEM style black projectors. It’s possible the aftermarket set doesn’t have the correct dedicated wire for drls. That’s why I switched it to high beams but they still didn’t work.
I’ve had no issue with the dropout on my low beams.
 

SitKneelBend

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Did I just read this right? I have quads, it looks like what you just posted means I could get rid of the drl shutting off when I signal? It could rem in on the way it should? I hate the drop out when signaling.

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Yes, you should be able to switch the drop out to "no" and it won't drop out for whichever option you set.

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Hemi395

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Can't remember if this was covered and if it was I'm sorry for asking again. Is there a way besides going to the dealer to change the fuel capacity in the Cluster itself? I have a Thinkdiag with the Chrysler software and it shows the PCM knows my truck has a 32 gallon tank, Alfa shows the BCM knows I have a 32 gallon tank, but the cluster shows 26. Is there any way of changing that???
3fa8a79c928f5aba624af8e95933c878.jpg9c48eba5a63b35724f6ce07728f93ece.jpg
 

chrisbh17

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Can't remember if this was covered and if it was I'm sorry for asking again. Is there a way besides going to the dealer to change the fuel capacity in the Cluster itself? I have a Thinkdiag with the Chrysler software and it shows the PCM knows my truck has a 32 gallon tank, Alfa shows the BCM knows I have a 32 gallon tank, but the cluster shows 26. Is there any way of changing that???
3fa8a79c928f5aba624af8e95933c878.jpg9c48eba5a63b35724f6ce07728f93ece.jpg

There are a bunch of choices in Alfa for "Cluster - Fuel Tank 1 Calibration". I think somewhere in this thread people posted values for stock (26 gallon). I am not sure if anyone tried to change them to reflect 32 gallon to see if it makes the gauge more accurate.

They are basically voltages for full, 3/4, 1/2, 1/4, "Low fuel" and Empty. Assuming its the same fuel level sensor, I would try filling your tank and then seeing if you can figure out what the voltage is. Then compare that voltage to a known 26 gallon tank to see if the 32 gallon at Full puts out a different voltage (my guess is it will). Then you just adjust your full voltage datum in Alfa, and if you want to get really accurate, figure out the %-age difference in the Full voltage and apply that same %-age difference in the 3/4, 1/2, etc numbers.

And if it all works, be sure to report back!
 

chrisbh17

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Can't remember if this was covered and if it was I'm sorry for asking again. Is there a way besides going to the dealer to change the fuel capacity in the Cluster itself? I have a Thinkdiag with the Chrysler software and it shows the PCM knows my truck has a 32 gallon tank, Alfa shows the BCM knows I have a 32 gallon tank, but the cluster shows 26. Is there any way of changing that???
3fa8a79c928f5aba624af8e95933c878.jpg9c48eba5a63b35724f6ce07728f93ece.jpg

There are a bunch of choices in Alfa for "Cluster - Fuel Tank 1 Calibration". I think somewhere in this thread people posted values for stock (26 gallon). I am not sure if anyone tried to change them to reflect 32 gallon to see if it makes the gauge more accurate.

They are basically voltages for full, 3/4, 1/2, 1/4, "Low fuel" and Empty. Assuming its the same fuel level sensor, I would try filling your tank and then seeing if you can figure out what the voltage is. Then compare that voltage to a known 26 gallon tank to see if the 32 gallon at Full puts out a different voltage (my guess is it will). Then you just adjust your full voltage datum in Alfa, and if you want to get really accurate, figure out the %-age difference in the Full voltage and apply that same %-age difference in the 3/4, 1/2, etc numbers.

And if it all works, be sure to report back!
 

Hemi395

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There are a bunch of choices in Alfa for "Cluster - Fuel Tank 1 Calibration". I think somewhere in this thread people posted values for stock (26 gallon). I am not sure if anyone tried to change them to reflect 32 gallon to see if it makes the gauge more accurate.

They are basically voltages for full, 3/4, 1/2, 1/4, "Low fuel" and Empty. Assuming its the same fuel level sensor, I would try filling your tank and then seeing if you can figure out what the voltage is. Then compare that voltage to a known 26 gallon tank to see if the 32 gallon at Full puts out a different voltage (my guess is it will). Then you just adjust your full voltage datum in Alfa, and if you want to get really accurate, figure out the %-age difference in the Full voltage and apply that same %-age difference in the 3/4, 1/2, etc numbers.

And if it all works, be sure to report back!
Great info thanks!!

Im assuming the "cluster - fuel tank 1 calibration" in the BCM?
 

Ricks Ram

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Finally installed the Mopar bed lighting in my 2015 since it had the brackets in the bed for them (must have been late model 15) but when I go to alpha to active them I can't find the option listed. Any idea how to to get it to appear so I can active them? Update: I found the option under the 2014-2017 year but Alpha only seem to want to connect to My 2015 but the option is not listed under that year. Can I force it to connect under the 2014-2017 model years to activate them?
The option wasn't available in 2015. I'm pretty sure it won't be in your options list. I know some guys have been able to force certain options with the windows version of the Alfa tool but it would be a longshot.

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tjram1500

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Great info thanks!!

Im assuming the "cluster - fuel tank 1 calibration" in the BCM?

I was having a difficult time changing mine but I believe I finally found it. Vehiconfig 4 fuel capacity is the one that when changing 98 liters to 121.000 liters sticks. There is another fuel capacity setting but that one doesn't change. Before changing I would show below empty and still have 6 gallons remaining
 

NapaRam

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The option wasn't available in 2015. I'm pretty sure it won't be in your options list. I know some guys have been able to force certain options with the windows version of the Alfa tool but it would be a longshot.

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Do you think a dealer would do it for me? My guess is no.
 

Ricks Ram

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Do you think a dealer would do it for me? My guess is no.
The dealer cannot add any codes to your BCM they can only enable the codes that are already there and available in your trim level. The Alfa tool can actually do much more than the dealer can do.

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