What did you do with your 4th Gen this week?

ram1500rsm · Sep 6, 2020

Pmexpert said:
Absolutely amazing! I like your build so much. I’m not with a kit now ) the only parts remaining from the bds kit are steering knuckles, several brackets and rear coils I’m willing to change. Probably I will go with Teraflex coils as those are triple rate coils and matching Gladiator 3.5” lift kits. Is it more comfortable to Ride on gladiators coils?

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Ty. Yep any progressive spring should ride very good cause you're always pretty much riding in their 1st rate and typically that one is softer than stock.

Pmexpert · Sep 6, 2020

ram1500rsm said:
Ty. Yep any progressive spring should ride very good cause you're always pretty much riding in their 1st rate and typically that one is softer than stock.

Perfect! Hope it will ride smoother

also need to change from coils. Need to put a bit longer and 100lbs less rated. Hope it will help for the front

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Pull Ya · Sep 6, 2020

NJMOPAR said:
Spent a couple of hours yesterday with the clay bar and did the whole truck.
Today it's Mequiar's hybrid ceramic liquid wax.

Make sure you check closely for any small scratches the clay bar might have left. They will need to be corrected before any wax or sealant is put on. If not you will be able to see the scratch under the wax or sealant.
Jay

revitupmoto33 · Sep 6, 2020

ram1500rsm said:
You're not messing around with that Raptor liner stuff

Had 2 liters left of the 4 liter kit so thought why not. Only got about 1.5 coats on each of em. I should order some more and get another coat on each but I’m tired of putting money in to this set of sliders. Next time they are due for paint I’ll sell em and build some new ones.

regal81455 · Sep 6, 2020

Big progress today for my audio upgrade. Got the basically everything done today except wiring up the speakers to the amps and hooking up the main at the fuse near the battery.

De-pinned and then created a new 12 pin harness for the speed wire so I can keep the center and rear ceilings on the factory alpine and everything else on the new AC D6.1200.

Should be able to get the rest wrapped up early tomorrow and then test before wrapping all the wires and final touches.

With this new amp things should be hardcore!

WY-Dave · Sep 7, 2020

Winterized

tones2SS · Sep 7, 2020

WY-Dave said:
Winterized
View attachment 220890
View attachment 220891

WOW!!!
Too early for that crap!! lol

Adamcr68 · Sep 7, 2020

VolsRam said:
So I searched the forum for a thread like this and didn't find anything. I figured it would be fun to have a thread that everyone can watch what everyone is doing each week.

This week I put on Steelcraft nerf bars, and right now I'm getting the permaplating put on the truck. This way it gets a real good bath.

I removed the valance?/plastic trim on the front bumper for the appearance of more height like how it looks but was hoping for straighter edge. Happy I was able to remove without breaking any connectors in case I change my mind

Adamcr68 · Sep 7, 2020

Adamcr68 said:
View attachment 220935 View attachment 220934
I removed the valance?/plastic trim on the front bumper for the appearance of more height like how it looks but was hoping for straighter edge. Happy I was able to remove without breaking any connectors in case I change my mind

Put in wrong picture

WY-Dave · Sep 7, 2020

tones2SS said:
WOW!!!
Too early for that crap!! lol

We live right on the 90/80% line

freezing rain mostly, lost power about 5 times (1hr to 5 min)
View attachment 220983

RangerWeaver · Sep 7, 2020

My TIPM plug-in relay system from Vertical Visions arrived on Saturday and I got it installed yesterday. I noticed a huge difference right off the bat on startup after it sat all night. With the TIPM bypass cable, it would crank for a while before it would start like it was out of gas. With the plug-in relay system, it started right when I turned the key. And the plug-in relay looks stock in the fuse box.

4eyedconekiller · Sep 8, 2020

So, quick plug for this past weekend’s fun... swapped out the old 5100 fronts and 140k stock rear shocks and springs for the entire Eibach Pro Truck Kit in [mention]shadowhawk [/mention]’s garage this Saturday. Those progressive rate springs ride like a CHAMP, and no more squatty phat girl! Big thanks for the help, patience and hospitality, Geoff!

Stocker on R, Eibach on L. MUCH beefier spring!

shadowhawk · Sep 8, 2020

4eyedconekiller said:
So, quick plug for this past weekend’s fun... swapped out the old 5100 fronts and 140k stock rear shocks and springs for the entire Eibach Pro Truck Kit in [mention]shadowhawk [/mention]’s garage this Saturday. Those progressive rate springs ride like a CHAMP, and no more squatty phat girl! Big thanks for the help, patience and hospitality, Geoff!

Glad to help out. We ARE a community of people and friends, and it's nice to help a brother out. I've had people help me along the way, and I'm just paying it forward.

Wes Veness · Sep 8, 2020

Adamcr68 said:
View attachment 220935 View attachment 220934
I removed the valance?/plastic trim on the front bumper for the appearance of more height like how it looks but was hoping for straighter edge. Happy I was able to remove without breaking any connectors in case I change my mind

I plan on doing that as well When i get time. Did you just snap the clips off?

VegasDragger45 · Sep 8, 2020

Finished my rear light instal and ran my power wire for the upcoming stereo build. Also cleaned the engine bay after a long summer of dirt roads.

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W4RL0CK · Sep 8, 2020

Latest version of my Warlock dash badge. I really like this one, so it should be the last version.

W4RL0CK · Sep 8, 2020

Also did the Mopar Kicker Speaker Upgrade... what a difference.

Only recommendation I would make is to not replace the stock tweeters in the dash because the Kicker ones overpower the rest of the system.

OnSale · Sep 8, 2020

Pull Ya said:
Make sure you check closely for any small scratches the clay bar might have left. They will need to be corrected before any wax or sealant is put on. If not you will be able to see the scratch under the wax or sealant.
Jay

If you are properly clay bar’ing a car, you should’nt leave any scratches from the clay bar. If the area you are claying is SO bad, that there is huge chunks of stuff that can scratch your paint, you should NOT be using a clay bar on that. A Clay Bar is meant for small bugs that have broken through the clear coat and are fused with the paint, as well as rail dust on brand new vehicles, or very small amounts of road grime that have sat untreated for multiple seasons. Anything bigger then a pin head or slightly larger, should be removed some other way and not with clay. Try a good Bug & Tar Remover, or try some good ol’ Acetone (Paint Thinner) or use a wool buffer pad with some quality Heavy Cut like Xtreme Solutions LVR400 or Chemical Guys V32 Compound.

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4eyedconekiller · Sep 8, 2020

shadowhawk said:
Glad to help out. We ARE a community of people and friends, and it's nice to help a brother out. I've had people help me along the way, and I'm just paying it forward.

Amen brother!

blackbeautyhemi · Sep 8, 2020

Haven’t done anything new with it other than keepin it clean and admiring it lol

What did you do with your 4th Gen this week?

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