What bolts for JBA headers?

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Kgibson1315

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I'm going to be purchasing some JBA longtubes with the catless ypipe here soon. I know I will need to purchase oem 6.1 gaskets, but what about header bolts? Are the JBA's good enough to use or should I purchase oem bolts? Thanks
 

Mordechai

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I'm going to be purchasing some JBA longtubes with the catless ypipe here soon. I know I will need to purchase oem 6.1 gaskets, but what about header bolts? Are the JBA's good enough to use or should I purchase oem bolts? Thanks
You can use em, but generally ARP bolts are recommended.

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Wild one

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I'm going to be purchasing some JBA longtubes with the catless ypipe here soon. I know I will need to purchase oem 6.1 gaskets, but what about header bolts? Are the JBA's good enough to use or should I purchase oem bolts? Thanks

The bolts that they come with are lots more bolt then you need.You only torque the header bolts to 20 lb-ft.Look up Remflexes 6022 gaskets they're gaining a lot of favour these days,and don't require re-torquing ,plus they'll absorb a fair bit of header flange mis-alignment if you happen to have any.Do not buy Stage 8 bolts,you'll hate them ,lol.

https://catalog.remflex.com/MOPAR_Header_Exhaust_Manifold_Gasket_p/6022.htm
 

MADDOG

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You're nuts to use Stage 8's,for one you can't get the clips on all the bolts,and the other thing is if you ever have to pull the headers you'll want to shoot the sumbitch that talked you into them,lol.

Not my experience at all. Used them all the time on everything from small block Chevys to motorcycles to Phord, GM & Ram trucks with no problems. You just gotta know what to order for the best results.
 

Wild one

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Not my experience at all. Used them all the time on everything from small block Chevys to motorcycles to Phord, GM & Ram trucks with no problems. You just gotta know what to order for the best results.

You can throw them in the garbage in my opinion.You can't get the locking clips on all the bolts,and when you go to take the header off or re-torque the bolts,you'll ***** the clips and tabs anyways. Waste of money in my opinion,but to each their own i guess,lol
 

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You can throw them in the garbage in my opinion. You can't get the locking clips on all the bolts, and when you go to take the header off or re-torque the bolts, you'll ***** the clips and tabs anyways. Waste of money in my opinion, but to each their own i guess,lol

I agree with Wild one. I used them to install JBA shorty's and only got 1/2 of the clips installed due to not enough space to get to the other half. Another potential issue is the clips are loose and rattle...could cause Knock sensor to "detect" false knocking. Potential being the key word. I have over 5,000 miles since the install with no issues yet. I did use a small amount of copper antisieze on the bolts which are stainless. Hopefully I will never have to remove them.
 

DILLIGAF

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You're nuts to use Stage 8's,for one you can't get the clips on all the bolts,and the other thing is if you ever have to pull the headers you'll want to shoot the sumbitch that talked you into them,lol.

Dont listen to that guy !, Had zero issues putting the Clips on with my sausage fingers. Also Get RemFlex gasket .

Only Downside to JBA is they look like **** after 1 winter.... lol...


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Wild one

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Dont listen to that guy !, Had zero issues putting the Clips on with my sausage fingers. Also Get RemFlex gasket .

Only Downside to JBA is they look like **** after 1 winter.... lol...


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Yea we've had this conversation before,and i still call ******** on your claim you got all the locking tabs and clips on.You only ever show a partial shot of the headers,lol. Funny i live in Canada to,and my JBA's look pristine after 6 years,lol.Here's a pic of my JBA midpipe that was header wrapped for 5 years no less,looks pretty damn fine if you ask me,and i soak it weekly,lol

DSCN4016.JPG
 
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Kgibson1315

Kgibson1315

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I'm going with the ceramic coated ones, so hopefully they last. Winters arent too bad in Kentucky, plus I barely put 5000 miles on the truck a year. Looks like Remflex gaskets over Mopar ones and still not sure on bolts. I'm leaning toward just using the jba provided bolts. Thanks guys for the input.
 

DILLIGAF

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All my Clips are on, Not sure why the **** anyone would lie about completing a simple ass job.
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Wild one

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All my Clips are on, Not sure why the **** anyone would lie about completing a simple ass job.
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You're the only guy who ever got all the clips on a set of 1 7/8's JBA's,so i guess you're the Jesus of Stage 8 installs,but you know something i still don't believe you,lol.
 

Wild one

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I'm going with the ceramic coated ones, so hopefully they last. Winters arent too bad in Kentucky, plus I barely put 5000 miles on the truck a year. Looks like Remflex gaskets over Mopar ones and still not sure on bolts. I'm leaning toward just using the jba provided bolts. Thanks guys for the input.

You'll be good for several years with them,and there's nothing wrong with the JBA bolts,why spend money when you don't have to.Have you gave any thought to wrapping them.It keeps your underhood temps down noticably,and more importantly keeps the heat in the primaries and the exhaust gas velocity up,which promotes better cylinder scavenging.Wrapping them also helps keep your knock sensors happier,they sit right under the primaries,and have been known to detect the pinging that occurs inside a header and pull timing on you. Pay attention to the brake and fuel lines on the drivers side frame rail,alot of guys relocate the lines farther up and then wrap them in reflective heat shielding to help keep the heat on the lines down.
Before you bolt the drivers side header up tight,re-install the dipstick then tweak it to allow you enough clearance for it to pass through the primaries with-out touching them,that's where wrapping them also helps,the dipstick can contact a wrapped header with-out affecting the knock sensors.Buy lots of beer to,lol
 

clint440

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I'm going to be purchasing some JBA longtubes with the catless ypipe here soon. I know I will need to purchase oem 6.1 gaskets, but what about header bolts? Are the JBA's good enough to use or should I purchase oem bolts? Thanks

Lots of opinions so not trying to muddy the waters any more but since you are going Catless, I would recommend Doug Thorley's. Comes with Remfex, compact fit (easy install for headers), Ceramic coated, and comes with the catless Y pipe. If I recall it was less dollars to.

If you do JBA's I think you would be fine with the already supplied bolts but recommend the Remflex upgrade.
 

Tim Garceau

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Lots of opinions so not trying to muddy the waters any more but since you are going Catless, I would recommend Doug Thorley's. Comes with Remfex, compact fit (easy install for headers), Ceramic coated, and comes with the catless Y pipe. If I recall it was less dollars to.

If you do JBA's I think you would be fine with the already supplied bolts but recommend the Remflex upgrade.

DTH not producing anymore at the moment due to small business decline, we may be one of the few with the tri-y sweet music Hemis. Sound amazing through an open cutout.:D

JBAs are solid ARH clones, get 1-3/4” if staying naturally aspirated along with ramflex gaskets torqued to 25 ft-lbs after the first heat cycle with 8.8 hardware(flanged JIS). Enjoy, custom tune is a must have.
 
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Kgibson1315

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You'll be good for several years with them,and there's nothing wrong with the JBA bolts,why spend money when you don't have to.Have you gave any thought to wrapping them.It keeps your underhood temps down noticably,and more importantly keeps the heat in the primaries and the exhaust gas velocity up,which promotes better cylinder scavenging.Wrapping them also helps keep your knock sensors happier,they sit right under the primaries,and have been known to detect the pinging that occurs inside a header and pull timing on you. Pay attention to the brake and fuel lines on the drivers side frame rail,alot of guys relocate the lines farther up and then wrap them in reflective heat shielding to help keep the heat on the lines down.
Before you bolt the drivers side header up tight,re-install the dipstick then tweak it to allow you enough clearance for it to pass through the primaries with-out touching them,that's where wrapping them also helps,the dipstick can contact a wrapped header with-out affecting the knock sensors.Buy lots of beer to,lol

I havent considered wrapping them. I will look into that. Thanks for the suggestion
 
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Kgibson1315

Kgibson1315

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DTH not producing anymore at the moment due to small business decline, we may be one of the few with the tri-y sweet music Hemis. Sound amazing through an open cutout.:D

JBAs are solid ARH clones, get 1-3/4” if staying naturally aspirated along with ramflex gaskets torqued to 25 ft-lbs after the first heat cycle with 8.8 hardware(flanged JIS). Enjoy, custom tune is a must have.

I am getting the 1 3/4 and already have the a hemifever tune, so they is covered. Thanks
 

MurderHemi

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Yea we've had this conversation before,and i still call ******** on your claim you got all the locking tabs and clips on.You only ever show a partial shot of the headers,lol. Funny i live in Canada to,and my JBA's look pristine after 6 years,lol.Here's a pic of my JBA midpipe that was header wrapped for 5 years no less,looks pretty damn fine if you ask me,and i soak it weekly,lol

View attachment 225330

that’s how my headers look after one winter so far and no wrap. Still look great.
 
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