2017 Ram 1500 Whipple 2.9

BadHemi2014 said:

I know some use the mighty mouse with the whipple.

I mostly stopped by to say that is one sweet sexy truck. I am partial to regular cabs.

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love only regular cabs. JMO.

Update: whipple is going on this weekend. What is everyone running in their diff and transfer cases? I’m going to change the engine oil, transmission, diff and transfer case fluid once the blower is on. Got my Morimoto head lights and fog lights on last week.

Im running just the OE stuff in diffs and t-case, on my whipple truck. There’s not much to be gained by going with something else unless they’re due to be changed anyway.

The truck has 46k on it so I figured I would go ahead and start fresh.

I'm going to try the tribodyn gear oil when the truetrac lsd and moser axles go in this week.
If you change the trans fluid you might as well put a PPE pan on. I also did the revmax thermostat bypass when I did the pan.

Update:Got the blower on and base tune from Hemifever. Seems to run very well for a base tune so far. Need to do some logs and get the tune dialed all the way in.

Looks awesome! Would be interested to see what it dynos at if you ever do that. I love my torqstorm, but it doesn't look as cool as a whipple!

ScLeCo said:

I'm going to try the tribodyn gear oil when the truetrac lsd and moser axles go in this week.
If you change the trans fluid you might as well put a PPE pan on. I also did the revmax thermostat bypass when I did the pan.

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Eaton reconmends good old cheap Mineral gear oil for their True Trac units.If you get a manual with it,read through it,i forget the exact page they tell you to use mineral gear lube,but it's towards the upper half of the manual.

Wild one said:

Eaton reconmends good old cheap Mineral gear oil for their True Trac units.If you get a manual with it,read through it,i forget the exact page they tell you to use mineral gear lube,but it's towards the upper half of the manual.

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"High quality mineral gear lubes are required for use in Detroit Truetrac differentials. Regardless of the lube type, alwys use a GL5 rated lube with the least amount of friction modifier. Mineral lubes lacking friction modifiers (limited-slip additives) were historically recommended for all Truetrac applications because friction modifiers can slightly reduce the bias ratio (limited-slip aggressiveness) of Truetrac differentials. However, to address the continually increasing power outputs of modern powertrains, many vehicle manufacturers have switched to synthetic lubricants as a counter measure for increased axle temperatures and prolonged service intervals. In general, consult the vehicle owner's manual for the manufacturer's recommendations for lubrication type, weight and fill volume. This will ensure lube compatibility with the seal materials and bearings used in the axle."


We recommend you use MOPAR Synthetic Gear Lubricant SAE 75W-140 (MS-8985)

You just have to be sure not to get oil with the friction modifiers.

The oil I got specifically says not to use with LSD's

"NOT RECOMMENDED FOR: AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSIONS, WET CLUTCH APPLICATIONS, LIMITED SLIP DIFFERENTIALS, OR ANY FRICTION OR BALL DRIVE CENTRIFUGAL STYLE SUPERCHARGERS.

So I don't know honestly. I guess it'll be ok?

James OBrien said:

Looks awesome! Would be interested to see what it dynos at if you ever do that. I love my torqstorm, but it doesn't look as cool as a whipple!

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I will put it on the dyno for sure later this year.

Does anyone know if there are some special rules with being able to post a for sale thread? I can’t create one in the classified section. Trying to list my Vararam Intake. Never had any issues on the other 4 car forum I’m on.
Thank You!

MurderHemi said:

Does anyone know if there are some special rules with being able to post a for sale thread? I can’t create one in the classified section. Trying to list my Vararam Intake. Never had any issues on the other 4 car forum I’m on.
Thank You!

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Minimum amount of posts I think 50 then follow posting rules.

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That mi

Ohio5pt7 said:

Minimum amount of posts I think 50 then follow posting rules.

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I figured I had more posts than that. Must not have. I will just hold on to it until I get to 50 I guess.
Thanks

MurderHemi said:

That mi


I figured I had more posts than that. Must not have. I will just hold on to it until I get to 50 I guess.
Thanks

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No problem. Reply to this!!! Then you only need 2 more after [emoji1787]

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Nice.

What kind of power are you putting down now?

Also - reply to this post to help you get to 50 lol

How are u going to tune it without air/fuel gauge and couple wot runs on a dyno.. Email tunes sound dangerous ..

Gone said:

How are u going to tune it without air/fuel gauge and couple wot runs on a dyno.. Email tunes sound dangerous ..

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The whipple kits come with a tune. It’s good enough to run it and drive it at WOT. It won’t be a 100% optimized but it will be a good starting point.

A road tune with data logging is going to be more useful to get a proper tune than a dyno. A dyno is good for printing numbers and not having to actually be driving. You can tune without a A/F input using o2 sensor data but it’s tricky and takes longer.

Tach_tech said:

The whipple kits come with a tune. It’s good enough to run it and drive it at WOT. It won’t be a 100% optimized but it will be a good starting point.

A road tune with data logging is going to be more useful to get a proper tune than a dyno. A dyno is good for printing numbers and not having to actually be driving. You can tune without a A/F input using o2 sensor data but it’s tricky and takes longer.

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I don't disagree, the data logging/road tune is a good process to accommodate a balanced tune, especially when it comes to tranny tuning. I do like the WOT/Dyno tuning also to nail the characteristics you need for balls to the wall power. For what it's worth, most remote tuners won't touch a power-adder setup (Supercharger/Turbo) without a wideband meter, at least Jay and Hemifever wouldn't.

Tach_tech said:

The whipple kits come with a tune. It’s good enough to run it and drive it at WOT. It won’t be a 100% optimized but it will be a good starting point.

A road tune with data logging is going to be more useful to get a proper tune than a dyno. A dyno is good for printing numbers and not having to actually be driving. You can tune without a A/F input using o2 sensor data but it’s tricky and takes longer.

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A dyno tune is the only way to dial in the correct air/fuel ration across the rpms .. o2 sensors might give you a ballpark figure most tuners will just fatten up the mix to be safe and call it a day.. ..

Look im new to these maf less hemis and how they calculate fuel trims but sure as hell a dyno tune is waaaay safer and makes more HP..

Gone said:

A dyno tune is the only way to dial in the correct air/fuel ration across the rpms .. o2 sensors might give you a ballpark figure most tuners will just fatten up the mix to be safe and call it a day.. ..

Look im new to these maf less hemis and how they calculate fuel trims but sure as hell a dyno tune is waaaay safer and makes more HP..

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Absolutely agree with the o2 sensors. Like I said it can be done without a wide band but it’s tricky and not the best way to do it.

A dyno and road tune both have their place. Dyno is good for full throttle tuning, even then a dyno can’t 100% replicate driving on the road. It is easier on a dyno obviously to see cause/effect of certain changes like timing.

Ya the dyno is a safer environment for sure compared to the road, but when it comes to tuning driveability. It’s much easier to drive around in real world conditions with your tuner in the passenger seat. Let’s be realistic, most people that are going to supercharge these trucks, it’s their daily driver. During daily driving you maybe spend 5% of the time actually in boost, so tuning driveability is just as important as big numbers on a dyno.

My truck went on the dyno just to see how much power it made and adjust the tune a bit. After that engine blew and had it tuned the second time it never went on the dyno, everything was done doing pulls on deserted roads with the tuner in the passenger seat and a wide band installed.

Tuner I used does a ton of late model boosted truck tuning. For those kind of vehicles he prefers to tune it on the road.

In an ideal world you’d tune on the dyno, get all the WOT work done then go drive it for the road tune to iron out any driveability issues. Im by no means a professional tuner, I dabble a bit in it but I know when to leave it someone else. These are just the opinions I’ve developed myself and from talking/dealing with my local tuners.