What bolts for JBA headers?

MurderHemi said:

that’s how my headers look after one winter so far and no wrap. Still look great.

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By looks of my little buddy Dilligafs pics,i think he had a set of mild steel JBA's ,as even JBA's cheap stainless versions don't rust like his did.

Wild one said:

You can throw them in the garbage in my opinion.You can't get the locking clips on all the bolts,and when you go to take the header off or re-torque the bolts,you'll ***** the clips and tabs anyways. Waste of money in my opinion,but to each their own i guess,lol

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That's your experience and I respect that. In my experience I had no issues at all on numerous installations. And there's no "i guess,lol" about it.

Considering you are referring to one specific installation I'd say your experience with them is limited.

Wild one said:

By looks of my little buddy Dilligafs pics,i think he had a set of mild steel JBA's ,as even JBA's cheap stainless versions don't rust like his did.

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Mine were the ceramic coated ones...lol...

MADDOG said:

That's your experience and I respect that. In my experience I had no issues at all on numerous installations. And there's no "i guess,lol" about it.

Considering you are referring to one specific installation I'd say your experience with them is limited.

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Nope i've used them before on cast iron heads they're semi okay,but on aluminium not needed,whens the last time you seen a steel bolt back out of aluminium.The bolts don't back out of aluminium heads,the gaskets crush and take a seat,that's the only reason you need to retorque header bolts on aluminium heads,and you're gonna hate those Stage 8 bolts when you have to retorque the headers.I'll bet you 20 bucks you can't get all the clips and locking tabs back off for retorquing with-out mangling the majority of the clips or tabs.You must think i'm new lad,been racing everything with wheels since i was a kid and i'm turning 60 in a week,lol
Plus i'm guessing you've missed the issues with them rattling over time and causing the knock sensors to pull timing,most tuners don't reconmend Stage 8's just for that factor alone

DILLIGAF said:

Mine were the ceramic coated ones...lol...

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DUH you can can ceramic coat mild steel too,lol. Lots of guys have no issue with JBA's stainless versions even in the salt belt.You're one guy running around like a rabbit,making lots of tracks,but have you actually found anybody else to back up your claims,maybe if there were several guys to back you up,then you'd have more footing to stand on,but you're the only guy running around saying they rust out in a year,find somebody to back you up,then you'll have better footing to stand on,lol

Tim Garceau said:

DTH not producing anymore at the moment due to small business decline, we may be one of the few with the tri-y sweet music Hemis. Sound amazing through an open cutout.

JBAs are solid ARH clones, get 1-3/4” if staying naturally aspirated along with ramflex gaskets torqued to 25 ft-lbs after the first heat cycle with 8.8 hardware(flanged JIS). Enjoy, custom tune is a must have.

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Well that's unfortunate. But then again they are located in Communist California so that should be no surprise.

Wild one said:

The bolts that they come with are lots more bolt then you need.You only torque the header bolts to 20 lb-ft.Look up Remflexes 6022 gaskets they're gaining a lot of favour these days,and don't require re-torquing ,plus they'll absorb a fair bit of header flange mis-alignment if you happen to have any.Do not buy Stage 8 bolts,you'll hate them ,lol.

https://catalog.remflex.com/MOPAR_Header_Exhaust_Manifold_Gasket_p/6022.htm

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I put the JBA Shorty's on about two years ago and used the remflex gaskets and the JBA Bolts.
Still tight as the day they were installed

I've had my jba on for about a year with the bolts that came with the headers, I used the oem gasket for the 6.1 gaskets, I've heard remflex is the way to go but I have not had any issues with my gasket at all. I also think you should wrap them, at first I didn't wrap mine but after 6 months I took them off and wrapped them. Its a lot better as far as temperatures under the hood. If you are installing them yourself I would recommend getting the ratcheting wrench and get the lokar dipstick, it will make your life a lot easier.

I have installed a few sets of headers on 5.7 an 6.1s and have always used new OEM header bolts. Never an issue. Each to their own but clips and other locking items are overkill IMO

Jose Zambrano said:

I've had my jba on for about a year with the bolts that came with the headers, I used the oem gasket for the 6.1 gaskets, I've heard remflex is the way to go but I have not had any issues with my gasket at all. I also think you should wrap them, at first I didn't wrap mine but after 6 months I took them off and wrapped them. Its a lot better as far as temperatures under the hood. If you are installing them yourself I would recommend getting the ratcheting wrench and get the lokar dipstick, it will make your life a lot easier.

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Were those ceramic coated?

Kgibson1315 said:

Were those ceramic coated?

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No, I used a rust proof high heat paint on headers first, then I wrapped them after that I used a high heat silicone paint on the wrap to keep moisture away from the wrap.

Wild one said:

The bolts that they come with are lots more bolt then you need.You only torque the header bolts to 20 lb-ft.Look up Remflexes 6022 gaskets they're gaining a lot of favour these days,and don't require re-torquing ,plus they'll absorb a fair bit of header flange mis-alignment if you happen to have any.Do not buy Stage 8 bolts,you'll hate them ,lol.

https://catalog.remflex.com/MOPAR_Header_Exhaust_Manifold_Gasket_p/6022.htm

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the remflex don't seem to have heat shields

oldnslo said:

the remflex don't seem to have heat shields

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you dont need the heat shields with headers. The heat shields are there because the factory manifold are restrictive garbage that heat up and warp.