What DON'T you like about your RAM?

BWL · Dec 29, 2020

corneileous said:
Did warranty do all that the first time? I would think that you’d have a leg to stand on if they fixed it under warranty and now so soon after all that, that they’d still have to fix again. I dunno, might require legal action.

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All warranty and still will be. Just a lot of down time without a truck I need for work now that my old truck is gone. Only get a basic vehicle with the warranty so if I need a truck I have to pay the difference and if they repair it while I'm away on a work trip I'm on the hook for the full rental until I get back.

corneileous · Dec 29, 2020

WY.Ram said:
Here's my whiny ass problem, this is probably self inflicted and I just need to be smarter but I had about 15 try s to get one right and I think I broke every damn one: the plastic connectors for the wiring harness, connections for all the sensors and a few other things, pcv, fuel rail, coils, etc.

If someone wrote a book and described how each connector was unlatched, well they'd be looking at riches but to damn crazy to know it.

Why is each one different? Why are they all such pieces of crap? The connectors are actually very high quality but the little safety latches are mythical pieces of ****. Why are the latched systems there to begin with? The connectors all click together with a positive force, felt, heard and tug tested. Those things f suck.

Whew, I feel better now, thank you!

'16 Wagon Greene tune feed'n & fire'n 6.4L with 6spd • 5.13 AAM, 37" KM3, -12mm Fuels • Thuren Overland, DOR, Purple Cranium • CAI, ARH, Solo Mach44 • z36, EBC • Custom vinyl AVS, 4% tint • Morimoto, Rigid, Diode Dynamics • AlfaOBD, Diablo, Nanny Kill, Locker bypass •.................

You can thank those clueless, non-mechanical engineers that never turned a wrench in their life that design that ****, for that.

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El_Dude · Dec 30, 2020

I don't like the shift knob. I prefer the regular steering shifter handle. I also don't like that the dome light for rear seat passenger doesn't have it's own switch.

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corneileous · Dec 30, 2020

El_Dude said:
I don't like the shift knob. I prefer the regular steering shifter handle. I also don't like that the dome light for rear seat passenger doesn't have it's own switch.

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In that case, for about the same price, you can get the other dome light assembly that does have a switch. They make three different kinds; a switched and non-switched incandescent one and a switched LED one like the one that came in my Limited. Might wanna look into it.

As I said, the switched LED and incandescent ones fit in the spot with the same plug. I’d recommend the regular switched incandescent one because it’s cheaper and if you were ever interested in upgrading to a LED bulb for it, that one’s gonna be a whole lot easier to do; been there done that.

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El_Dude · Dec 30, 2020

corneileous said:
You don’t want anybody who’s sitting in the back to be able to turn on a light in the dark if they need to find ..

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Just edited my post. My rear dome light does NOT have a switch. The only switch is on the left side of the dash.

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corneileous · Dec 30, 2020

El_Dude said:
Just edited my post. My rear dome light does NOT have a switch. The only switch is on the left side of the dash.

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I was gonna say....lol.

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El_Dude · Dec 30, 2020

corneileous said:
I was gonna say....lol.

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So I can buy the dome light with a switch on it?

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corneileous · Dec 30, 2020

El_Dude said:
So can buy the dome light with a switch on it?

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Yep. Might want to call up a dealer first so you can give them your vin and they can help you determine the right part and color and then go on one of those many online Mopar parts sites because it’ll be a lot cheaper than buying it at a dealer. The only thing though, you might have a hard time figuring out the correct part number for whatever your interiors’s color is, though but hey, it’s not hard to paint those to match if push comes to shove.

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Dodgeboy383 · Jan 1, 2021

Doug Ram said:
What were you doing to rip the rubber boots on the front axles on a 2008 truck. Do you still have it.

Just normal driving, I don't do off roading , I mentioned in a post about the upper ball joint popping out on the passengers side, so that obviously damaged that axle so that's my bad for when I said I went through 3 axles in 4 years of having the truck I shouldn't of included that time. After having that mess fixed by a dealership, almost 1 year later it failed, boot had dry rotted cracks and must of split causing grease to come out with failure of the bearings following. The driver's side did the exact same thing some months later while going to work, I can't explain why this all happened, I shouldn't have to keep checking something like that to make sure there's no split or cracking so with that issue and MANY other issues I had with that truck I traded it in November 2019 on a 3/4 ton hemi powered ram.

tones2SS · Jan 1, 2021

El_Dude said:
I don't like the shift knob. I prefer the regular steering shifter handle.

I didn't like it at first, but I do like it now.

Fishstickz · Jan 1, 2021

corneileous said:
Did you perhaps buy the truck used? If so, have you any idea how the previous owner treated it? Sorry but, if you say you did NONE of that stuff you mentioned above, I don’t see how just driving the thing to and from work would cause you that many problems unless a previous owner DID.

Your wheel coming off; was there not any signs- at all, of a bad ball joint? Play in the steering, vibration, nothing?

The reason why they aren’t able to be greased is because they’re sealed. You run em till they wear out, then you replace them- or you do like what most people do is replace the A arms.

But look- I understand your frustration but still, 1500’s aren’t built like the HD’s, plain and simple. Sorry you had such trouble with yours and I don’t blame you for never wanting another half-ton but if a 3/4-ton better suits your needs then what’s the problem? It’s like you’re still wanting to cut down the whole damn apple tree just because of one bad apple- yours.

But hey, for whatever it’s worth, I had a 98 Ram 1500 that had the solid front axle and it was plagued with rear diff problems because of the factory limited slip. But, I did take that thing up on the Jeep trails of SW Colorado so, I can’t really blame the truck for that.

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I’ll have to +1 the guy with all his ‘08 issues. My ‘06 eats front end joints and bushings for breakfast. In the past 70k ive replaced sway bar end links twice, lower ball joints twice, tie rod ends, sway bar bushings, and upper control arms. Despite replacing the entire front end I still have a front end squeak coming from..somewhere. HOWEVER I will say my truck was definitely beaten on by the PO most of those components were probably trashed before I got the keys. But even after replacing every worn out bushing known to man, and I still got a squeak? It sucks lol

I’m not too sure any other truck would’ve fared much better, but still it looks like I’ll be replacing lower ball joints for the 3rd time in the near future (MOOG lowers arent what they used to be). This time around I’ll probably just stick to the oreilly’s brand with a lifetime warranty since the MOOGs looked terrible within the first 5 thousand miles

I’m not sure if all this stems from faulty suspension geometry design or from the PO’s horrible driving habits and carelessness, but our 2011 silverado in its 215k miles has only had 1 sway bar end link replaced. I hope the new rams have less suspension issues than the late 3rd gens

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TheEnder · Jan 1, 2021

rwhjr said:
No not the seatbelt alone but a cumulative effect of small details etc.

I’ve had both and they have their flaws etc. but fords been doing things like panoramic moonroofs, bigger flatter back seats/floors, factory power steps, better headlamps on premium models, just a bunch of those little things.

And it’s not that Ram doesn’t follow suit and eventually make things better (but come on, I mean how long did it take Ram to put some Fn headlights on a truck that are worth a damn?). It took until the 5th gen to get rid of our dangerously dim incandescent lamps...even on the highest of trim levels.

I think Ford just stays a little on the forefront of the nicer options which is why there’s a little more of a premium for them. Oh and they comparatively have much more capable payload and tow ratings which is nice for the majority of truck owners in the half ton segment.

And Phord as you call them looks to have one upped everybody again with the soon to be released 2021 F-150 so it’ll be back to chasing them. But I’m okay with that because I keep my trucks for a while and my 17 Ram isnt going anywhere. But I can still have the ability to look at other trucks and acknowledge they can be nicer unlike you lol.

You mean the rebadged 2021 GMC Sierra?

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BWL · Jan 1, 2021

Fishstickz said:
I’ll have to +1 the guy with all his ‘08 issues. My ‘06 eats front end joints and bushings for breakfast. In the past 70k ive replaced sway bar end links twice, lower ball joints twice, tie rod ends, sway bar bushings, and upper control arms. Despite replacing the entire front end I still have a front end squeak coming from..somewhere. HOWEVER I will say my truck was definitely beaten on by the PO most of those components were probably trashed before I got the keys. But even after replacing every worn out bushing known to man, and I still got a squeak? It sucks lol

I’m not too sure any other truck would’ve fared much better, but still it looks like I’ll be replacing lower ball joints for the 3rd time in the near future (MOOG lowers arent what they used to be). This time around I’ll probably just stick to the oreilly’s brand with a lifetime warranty since the MOOGs looked terrible within the first 5 thousand miles

I’m not sure if all this stems from faulty suspension geometry design or from the PO’s horrible driving habits and carelessness, but our 2011 silverado in its 215k miles has only had 1 sway bar end link replaced. I hope the new rams have less suspension issues than the late 3rd gens

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I know guys get all ***** for the 5.9cummins trucks, but my 06' with the 5.9 was the biggest pos I've ever had the misfortune to own. Paid for it twice with all the repairs it needed over the 5 and a bit years I had it. I actually bought an old F150 to drive when it broke down because it was that unreliable and it was getting too expensive renting. Over a year in the shop total. Bought it brand new late 05 and sold it late 2011 with 240,000 on it. Should have dumped it as soon as the warranty was up. My 2011 needed virtually nothing for the nearly 280,000 kms I put on it and it's life was no easier being a half ton and doing the same work.

ryan hart · Jan 2, 2021

The inverter, for a truck imo, is weak. Should be able to run more on it. Just my opinion.

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jws123 · Jan 2, 2021

I went to look at a 2015 ram everything I wanted nice truck needed a few things price was ok BUT I FORGOT.. DIAL SHIFTER!! cant do it. It broke the whole deal cant see myself getting use to it i tried it a few times. Also appears they have to many issues getting stuck in P or N or switch goes bad/connection issues from what I see on here guess il just keep driving my 2011 into the ground.

corneileous · Jan 2, 2021

jws123 said:
I went to look at a 2015 ram everything I wanted nice truck needed a few things price was ok BUT I FORGOT.. DIAL SHIFTER!! cant do it. It broke the whole deal cant see myself getting use to it i tried it a few times. Also appears they have to many issues getting stuck in P or N or switch goes bad/connection issues from what I see on here guess il just keep driving my 2011 into the ground.

Hmm, maybe on the old ones but I haven’t heard nothin’ about them getting stuck in park or neutral.

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Bob Johnson · Jan 12, 2021

The fuel tank is too small. When towing a travel trailer I have to stop for fuel every 2.5 hours. There are plenty of aftermarket tanks for diesel, but none for gas. A 50 gallon option like what Ford offers on their gas truck would be nice!

corneileous · Jan 12, 2021

Bob Johnson said:
The fuel tank is too small. When towing a travel trailer I have to stop for fuel every 2.5 hours. There are plenty of aftermarket tanks for diesel, but none for gas. A 50 gallon option like what Ford offers on their gas truck would be nice!

Well, being that you must be talking about a three-quarter ton with the 392, maybe the only reason why the Ford super duty is able to give you another 16 gallons of gas is because their truck bodies are made out of aluminum which cuts down probably about 3 to 400 pounds in weight but, maybe you’re screwed either way because that’s probably a selling point to get you to spend more money on the Cummins if you really do that much trailer towing to where stopping every 2, 3 hours to refuel is really that much of a problem. If you tow that much then maybe you need to ditch that gasser and get you a diesel that even with a stock-sized tank will yield you a lot longer drive times between fueling and much better fuel mileage.

But it kind of seems to me that it goes hand-in-hand that if you’re towing that much that probably you should have opted for the diesel instead of the gasser because I’m sorry, the gas 2500 is probably really only for those who want a three-quarter ton to suit their lesser needs that a 1500 will do, but hardly tow enough to justify the much higher price of the CTD.

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Ribtipram · Jan 12, 2021

corneileous said:
Well, being that you must be talking about a three-quarter ton with the 392, maybe the only reason why the Ford super duty is able to give you another 16 gallons of gas is because their truck bodies are made out of aluminum which cuts down probably about 3 to 400 pounds in weight but, maybe you’re screwed either way because that’s probably a selling point to get you to spend more money on the Cummins if you really do that much trailer towing to where stopping every 2, 3 hours to refuel is really that much of a problem. If you tow that much then maybe you need to ditch that gasser and get you a diesel that even with a stock-sized tank will yield you a lot longer drive times between fueling and much better fuel mileage.

But it kind of seems to me that it goes hand-in-hand that if you’re towing that much that probably you should have opted for the diesel instead of the gasser because I’m sorry, the gas 2500 is probably really only for those who want a three-quarter ton to suit their lesser needs that a 1500 will do, but hardly tow enough to justify the much higher price of the CTD.

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What if the 3/4 ton diesel does not have enough payload. You have to go gas in a 3/4 ton if your pulling a larger 5th wheel. If you want to stay legal anyway.

corneileous · Jan 12, 2021

Ribtipram said:
What if the 3/4 ton diesel does not have enough payload. You have to go gas in a 3/4 ton if your pulling a larger 5th wheel. If you want to stay legal anyway.

I thought payload was only what you can haul in the bed?? If that’s the case, then for only pulling a big ole 5th wheel, the 800 pounds you lose in payload gets made up for the over 1500 pounds you get in your trailer towing capacity.

And then again, how many people buy the Cummins for how much they can put in the bed??

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What DON'T you like about your RAM?

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