Just changed engine oil - at 510 miles.

Jesse Lackman · Jan 25, 2021

Overlander said:
Recommended by? Ford Motor Company?

That's what he made it sound like. Either Ford or the dealer.

Gamedog · Jan 25, 2021

Jesse Lackman said:
I had this Power Wagon to 100 mph in four wheel drive...

Really? And no issues to report? Pretty impressive if not. Hell, I get cautious when I get close to 50!

Jesse Lackman · Jan 25, 2021

I want to break in the differentials good and proper before I change the oil in them.

Overlander · Jan 25, 2021

The other item that's missing from this discussion is the trans fluid. Same thing is going on there as with the engine oil, but because we don't change it often and the pan filter isn't easily accessible it tends to be 'out of sight, out of mind'.

Regcabguy · Jan 25, 2021

Zoe Saldana said:
Magnets would be a better benefit on the oil pan close to the drain hole.

As the oil sits the magnets would attract the metal.

Remove the magnets before you drain so that the oil take out what is captured.

That's a good idea. I have the magnet on my Cummins 5.9 filter and never thought about it.

Jesse Lackman · Jan 25, 2021

I'm going to change the trans fluid early too. Just haven't decided when. The pan has at least four magnets in it, and the filter is part of the pan. So the pan has to be replaced. I think that's intentional, so the magnets get replaced.

https://www.ramforum.com/posts/2401909/

Jesse Lackman · Jul 17, 2021

Changed oil again at 5617 miles. The oil has way less sparkles and the shop towel looks much cleaner.

Jesse Lackman · Jul 17, 2021

Very little metal on the magnets. The remote full flow filter is huge compared to the stock one, it would take a lot for it to bypass. Plus there's a bypass.

Filled with the Pennzoil again, one more time before switching to Amsoil.

Bob Macknight · Jul 17, 2021

Jesse Lackman said:
I dyno test engines and we often change oil and cut open filter to check for metal after break in. I wanted to see what things looked like at 500 miles on a brand new vehicle. The new oil was Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0W-40. I also installed an Amsoil dual remote filter. I didn't use Amsoil's filter adapter, I used the one from Improved Racing. I had magnets on the full flow filter but there was very little magnetic particles caught by the magnets.

if you dont mind please post (all) parts used so i can install

Tinman454 · Jul 17, 2021

Jesse Lackman said:
Very little metal on the magnets. The remote full flow filter is huge compared to the stock one, it would take a lot for it to bypass. Plus there's a bypass.

Filled with the Pennzoil again, one more time before switching to Amsoil.

can I ask why you do a few pennzoil changes and then switch to Amsoil ? I too would like to use Amsoil as i really like it. And was going to change my first oil change as I only have 1500 miles on my truck.

tidefan1967 · Jul 18, 2021

Tinman454 said:
can I ask why you do a few pennzoil changes and then switch to Amsoil ? I too would like to use Amsoil as i really like it. And was going to change my first oil change as I only have 1500 miles on my truck.

Since Pennzoil Ultra Platinum isn't really a "synthetic" oil to begin with (its a just a more highly refined group 3 dino oil) he's probably trying to get it completely broken in to whatever discerning standard he has before switching to Amsoil Signature Series which is a group 4 with some PAO added and considered a "real" honest to GOD synthetic oil. I usually do something similar myself before switching over to the real thing. I'm at 1900 miles on mine and plan to do the same exact thing at the 8-9K mile mark. My first oil change was at 1K miles, next will be in the 4-5K range with Valvoline Extended Protection 5W30 which has over 300PPM om Moly. I've already ordered the Amsoil SS and its on the way. Going to give it a try before choosing between it and Redline.

HEMIMANN · Jul 18, 2021

I still think it's risky pushing any oil in this marginally-lubricated HEMI engine architecture. It's sensitive to deposits and seemingly idling time. Deposits don't come just from base oil and additive breakdown - they come from cylinder blowby and air intake dirt.

If one accepts this limitation for the sensitive MDS & VVT hydraulic circuitry, then one would accept a shorter OCI to minimize clogging that could lead to less lubrication to the valve lifter rollers. That means 5k OCI's, and then, why use a 20k OCI base oil like Amsoil?

The only reason I'm using 20k RedLine and dumping at 5k OCI is for the metal affinity of the unique base oil - the polyol ester, which is used for all jet engine oils for thermal breakdown resistance. We don't use it for that in these engines, just for the metal clinginess. And it's chocked full of soluble moly in MoDTC form, that plates out on frictional parts over time.

SeppW · Jul 18, 2021

tidefan1967 said:
Since Pennzoil Ultra Platinum isn't really a "synthetic" oil to begin with (its a just a more highly refined group 3 dino oil) . . . .

What? PUP is marketed as full synthetic, the difference being it is refined from Natural Gas and not crude, according to Pennzoil Web site. Have a cite/source to support that assertion? I'd be interested in seeing that. I think the OE trans fluid, oil, and gear oil is some form of synthetic on the 2500 6.4L with AT. The only exception maybe is the MOPAR spec grease for the Cardan joint on front driveshaft

HEMIMANN · Jul 18, 2021

SeppW said:
What? PUP is marketed as full synthetic, the difference being it is refined from Natural Gas and not crude, according to Pennzoil Web site. Have a cite/source to support that assertion? I'd be interested in seeing that. I think the OE trans fluid, oil, and gear oil is some form of synthetic on the 2500 6.4L with AT. The only exception maybe is the MOPAR spec grease for the Cardan joint on front driveshaft

PUP used the German Gas-To-Oil (GTL) chemical process. It's nothing new, it was invented by the ****'s in WWII.

Fischer-Tropsch Process - an overview | ScienceDirect Topics

www.sciencedirect.com

Because the condensate appears to have a higher level of hydrogenation (saturation) than hydrocracked crude API Group III synthetic, it is sometimes referred to as Group III+.

Whether the slightly higher base oil saturation or more detergents lead to cleaner piston rings per Shell's test documentation is not known. The fact it is a positive difference led me to switch to PUP from Mobil 1 some years ago. It also had significantly more moly additive at that time, and it definitely quieted my 2012 Hemi tick that had started up at app. 40,000 miles. Furthermore, oil consumption dropped to near nothing, as measured on the dipstick, compared to Mobil 1.

All these things caused me to change across the board. I no longer use Mobil 1 in anything. I won't get into the saga of Mobil's re-acquisition and decimation by Exxon, or what it meant to product quality.

Edit: ha ha ha ha the auto censor program removed the word N*A*Z*I, when the reference is literally truth. ha ha ha ha

tidefan1967 · Jul 18, 2021

SeppW said:
What? PUP is marketed as full synthetic, the difference being it is refined from Natural Gas and not crude, according to Pennzoil Web site. Have a cite/source to support that assertion? I'd be interested in seeing that. I think the OE trans fluid, oil, and gear oil is some form of synthetic on the 2500 6.4L with AT. The only exception maybe is the MOPAR spec grease for the Cardan joint on front driveshaft

Exactly what Hemimann said! 99% of the oils out there that are marketed as synthetics are not they are merely just more refined Dino oils. Maybe Burla will chime in on this since he knows way more about it than I do. Thanks Hemimann for your explanation.

HEMIMANN · Jul 18, 2021

tidefan1967 said:
Exactly what Hemimann said! 99% of the oils out there that are marketed as synthetics are not they are merely just more refined Dino oils. Maybe Burla will chime in on this since he knows way more about it than I do. Thanks Hemimann for your e

Because a court ruled that Castrol's hydrocracked base oil was different enough from a vacuum refined crude oil to be allowed to be labeled "synthetic". That's when the market changed and API developed the 5 base oil categories.

"Full Synthetic" is defined by the courts and API to be API Group III and higher base stocks.

How deep does OP wanna go down this rabbit hole of legalese?

SeppW · Jul 18, 2021

HEMIMANN said:
PUP used the German Gas-To-Oil (GTL) chemical process. It's nothing new, it was invented by the ****'s in WWII.

Fischer-Tropsch Process - an overview | ScienceDirect Topics

www.sciencedirect.com

Because the condensate appears to have a higher level of hydrogenation (saturation) than hydrocracked crude API Group III synthetic, it is sometimes referred to as Group III+.

Whether the slightly higher base oil saturation or more detergents lead to cleaner piston rings per Shell's test documentation is not known. The fact it is a positive difference led me to switch to PUP from Mobil 1 some years ago. It also had significantly more moly additive at that time, and it definitely quieted my 2012 Hemi tick that had started up at app. 40,000 miles. Furthermore, oil consumption dropped to near nothing, as measured on the dipstick, compared to Mobil 1.

All these things caused me to change across the board. I no longer use Mobil 1 in anything. I won't get into the saga of Mobil's re-acquisition and decimation by Exxon, or what it meant to product quality.

Edit: ha ha ha ha the auto censor program removed the word N*A*Z*I, when the reference is literally truth. ha ha ha ha

Learning is a lifelong experience. I hadn't given the production of synthetic products a second thought. I have been reading up on GTL and it has quite a complex history and technologies. Good stuff. I've used PUP in my 2500 since that is what MOPAR recommends despite the stated ulterior motives.

Jesse Lackman · Jul 18, 2021

Bob Macknight said:
if you dont mind please post (all) parts used so i can install

Amsoil BMK23 UNIV Dual Remote Bypass Sys
Improved Racing adapter but I don't remember which one. https://www.improvedracing.com/universal-billet-remote-oil-filter-take-off-plate-configurator.html

The filter mounting was totally fabricated.

Jesse Lackman · Jul 18, 2021

Tinman454 said:
can I ask why you do a few pennzoil changes and then switch to Amsoil ? I too would like to use Amsoil as i really like it. And was going to change my first oil change as I only have 1500 miles on my truck.

Basically what tidefan1967 said. I want to run Amsoil but I wanted to run the factory fill oil for a few changes first. It's probably not necessary because modern engines break in nearly right away.

Jesse Lackman · Jul 18, 2021

HEMIMANN said:
I still think it's risky pushing any oil in this marginally-lubricated HEMI engine architecture. It's sensitive to deposits and seemingly idling time. Deposits don't come just from base oil and additive breakdown - they come from cylinder blowby and air intake dirt.

If one accepts this limitation for the sensitive MDS & VVT hydraulic circuitry, then one would accept a shorter OCI to minimize clogging

I'm running the Amsoil dual remote setup which is a full flow (with probably 4x the element size of factory, 6.75 long and 3.66 diameter) plus a bypass filter that filters much finer than any full flow does.

https://www.amsoil.com/bypass/

Just changed engine oil - at 510 miles.

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