Regear help

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MEAT SHIELD

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I got a 2011 ram 1500 4.7 V8. 6 inch lift and just threw some 37’s on . I am wanting to regear eventually , any suggestions on gearing , what I should change it to. Anyone re geared before , brand Recommends? Do it your self difficulty ? I would appreciate all feed back thankyou! Right now when I wanna pick up speed it feels sluggish so I gotta slam the pedal down a bit more than usual to get going .
 

62Blazer

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I believe 4.56 is as low as you can go in that truck, and if so that I the ratio I would recommend with 37's.

It is a fairly involved job and requires pressing on bearings, shimming the gear set to get the correct backlash and tooth contact pattern, and torquing everything correctly. There is a decent amount of work just to replace the gears, especially in the front, and then the part about making sure they are setup correctly. If they are not setup correctly you risk excessive wear, noise, and possibly early failure of the gears. Not trying to scare anybody away as with doing some research, having access to the correct tools, and taking your time it can be done. Just don't expect to do it in an apartment parking lot with a Harbor Freight wrench set on a Thursday night after work (....that comes from a YouTube video of somebody doing gears on their truck.....I cringed the whole time as they used a hammer and chisel to remove bearings and never checked the setup of the gears!).
 
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MEAT SHIELD

MEAT SHIELD

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I believe 4.56 is as low as you can go in that truck, and if so that I the ratio I would recommend with 37's.

It is a fairly involved job and requires pressing on bearings, shimming the gear set to get the correct backlash and tooth contact pattern, and torquing everything correctly. There is a decent amount of work just to replace the gears, especially in the front, and then the part about making sure they are setup correctly. If they are not setup correctly you risk excessive wear, noise, and possibly early failure of the gears. Not trying to scare anybody away as with doing some research, having access to the correct tools, and taking your time it can be done. Just don't expect to do it in an apartment parking lot with a Harbor Freight wrench set on a Thursday night after work (....that comes from a YouTube video of somebody doing gears on their truck.....I cringed the whole time as they used a hammer and chisel to remove bearings and never checked the setup of the gears!).

Awesome response I really appreciate the detail your awesome! So tools I’m not worried about, I’m gonna take it to the hobby shop on base and throw it on a lift, they got all the tools I need . If it makes any difference it’s 2WD so I only gotta worry about one differential. I looked at the differential and couldn’t find my current gearing . So should I just shoot for a 4.56 anyways? And I love working in detail , I’m currently an aviation engine mechanic , so I can get down and dirty lol! Problem is, is there any detailed instruction I can follow on this process?
 

crackerjack1957

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RamminMopar is correct 4:88 on 2wd, you will benefit more with it on 37's & that high 1st gear in your trans.
 

michael harpe

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not to thread jack, but @MEAT SHIELD post up in the military roll call to get your banner. also @RamminMopar how about a 18 power wagon with the 6 speed trans running 37's on 20" wheels. i want to stop that hunt from 5th to 6th. any suggestions over the stock 4.10?
 
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MEAT SHIELD

MEAT SHIELD

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not to thread jack, but @MEAT SHIELD post up in the military roll call to get your banner. also @RamminMopar how about a 18 power wagon with the 6 speed trans running 37's on 20" wheels. i want to stop that hunt from 5th to 6th. any suggestions over the stock 4.10?

didnt even know there was military stuff on here he’ll yeah! I’ll look for it. I’m pretty new lol
 

RedSRT4Me

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not to thread jack, but @MEAT SHIELD post up in the military roll call to get your banner. also @RamminMopar how about a 18 power wagon with the 6 speed trans running 37's on 20" wheels. i want to stop that hunt from 5th to 6th. any suggestions over the stock 4.10?

You can get 5.13's on the power wagon to get you back on track.
 

WY-Dave

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With tire changes, to get to the same level as with stock tires
(new tire/old tire) x old ratio = new ratio

assuming 3.73s
(37/33)*3.73=4.18 this will get your rpms and mph back close to stock

if the above numbers are good, then 4.10s would be close.
 

RamminMopar

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not to thread jack, but @MEAT SHIELD post up in the military roll call to get your banner. also @RamminMopar how about a 18 power wagon with the 6 speed trans running 37's on 20" wheels. i want to stop that hunt from 5th to 6th. any suggestions over the stock 4.10?

i have the 545rfe with the 10.5 rear end so the lowest i could go was 4.56 in 4x4. I did find 4.88 for the 10.5 rear but no 4.88 for the 9.25 front axle. W.Y Ram (butchered his name) has a nice write up on his 5.13 gears with the 66rfe/11.5 rear axle
 
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HEMI 5.7 Revolution 4.88s
With 37s definitely go with the 4.88s .... I regeared mine with 4.88s from Revolution and I have 37s.. you can definitely feel the difference now ...

I only payed $850 which included the flushing of the dif-fluid after the break in period .... and mine is also a 2wd ...
 

62Blazer

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With tire changes, to get to the same level as with stock tires
(new tire/old tire) x old ratio = new ratio

assuming 3.73s
(37/33)*3.73=4.18 this will get your rpms and mph back close to stock

if the above numbers are good, then 4.10s would be close.
That may work out on paper but in real life you need to go lower to get back to the "stock" feel. That is because of the increased rotational mass and rolling resistance of the larger tires. Most people would have a hard time telling the difference between 3.73 and 4.10 gears on otherwise identical trucks. Years ago I had 3.73 gears in a truck and paid a bunch of money to have 4.10's installed....remember being all excited when I picked the truck up from the shop and was quickly disappointed after about 5 minutes of driving because I couldn't tell any difference. In my previous job I also spent a bunch of time driving fleets of trucks that had different factory ratios, with 3.73 vs. 4.10 being common, and you just really couldn't tell the difference in the seat of the pants performance.
 
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2018 2wd
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HEMI 5.7 Revolution 4.88s
If you can get 4.88's for the 2wd I would recommend those!
Yeep ... I love my truck with the 4.88s .... now I will say this .... the shop and a lot of people said it would help my mpgs so I said "even better" ... the first couple of months my mpgs were the same as when I had the 3.21s but now not so much ... but having a truck that can pull away from most trucks in my town is fun lol ... never fails at a red light when another 1500, Silverado or f150 lifted and they pull up and when the light turns green they want to floor the pedal only to have me just hit the gas and im already 2 car lengths away from them and add on the fact that I have the competitor series carven exhaust only makes keep the pedal down just to see their faces when they catch up at the next red light lol .....

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HEMI 5.7 Revolution 4.88s
That may work out on paper but in real life you need to go lower to get back to the "stock" feel. That is because of the increased rotational mass and rolling resistance of the larger tires. Most people would have a hard time telling the difference between 3.73 and 4.10 gears on otherwise identical trucks. Years ago I had 3.73 gears in a truck and paid a bunch of money to have 4.10's installed....remember being all excited when I picked the truck up from the shop and was quickly disappointed after about 5 minutes of driving because I couldn't tell any difference. In my previous job I also spent a bunch of time driving fleets of trucks that had different factory ratios, with 3.73 vs. 4.10 being common, and you just really couldn't tell the difference in the seat of the pants performance.
Oh yeah ... I swore up and down that I didn't need to regear because I thought my truck felt just fine ... when I picked up my truck I was a little worried because I couldn't drive it more than 45 for the break in period right?

But after the break in period after getting it flushed with the new gear oil I right away felt the difference ....

From 4.56s to 4.88s with 37s is a huge difference and the average person won't be able to tell

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RedSRT4Me

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Oh yeah ... I swore up and down that I didn't need to regear because I thought my truck felt just fine ... when I picked up my truck I was a little worried because I couldn't drive it more than 45 for the break in period right?

But after the break in period after getting it flushed with the new gear oil I right away felt the difference ....

From 4.56s to 4.88s with 37s is a huge difference and the average person won't be able to tell

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And even more ooopmh is when your regear is paired with the 8 speed transmission! Talk about tire fire to 60mph if you really wanted too. :angels25::angels25:
 
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HEMI 5.7 Revolution 4.88s
And even more ooopmh is when your regear is paired with the 8 speed transmission! Talk about tire fire to 60mph if you really wanted too. :angels25::angels25:

Dude that's no lie lol ... which is why I am only getting 11mpg right now lol .. it's just so much fun flooring it every now and then lol ...
 

Lyle Longboat

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I have a 2011 1500 4x4 and just swapped out both diffs. I went with Moe’s 456 gears (Rear Revolution/front Motive) from a 355/5 speed with 35/37 intermittently. Brand new truck brother! braking in period right now and hard to do as I want to step on it. Bolt ons and custom tuned.
All the numbers done, 456s with 37s prit near puts me to the 8 speed gearing when all said and done. With these 35s right now, there will be nothing left to them once I’m out of the break in period lol. Thanks to @Brandon-w for the number crunch.
 

Wild one

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I have a 2011 1500 4x4 and just swapped out both diffs. I went with Moe’s 456 gears (Rear Revolution/front Motive) from a 355/5 speed with 35/37 intermittently. Brand new truck brother! braking in period right now and hard to do as I want to step on it. Bolt ons and custom tuned.
All the numbers done, 456s with 37s prit near puts me to the 8 speed gearing when all said and done. With these 35s right now, there will be nothing left to them once I’m out of the break in period lol. Thanks to @Brandon-w for the number crunch.

Not quite

5/6 speed 3.06 X 4.56 = 13.95:1

8 speed 4.71 X 3.55 = 16.72:1

16.72/ 3.06 =5.46:1

Usually Brandons good,but somebody screwed up on the math on this one Lyle,you'd need closer to 5.46's to match what the 8 speed would give you with 3.55's in first,that's with-out factoring in your 12% taller tires which brings your effective 13.95 first gear down to roughly 12.28:1 in first gear.Cruise rpm isn't going to apply here as both trannies are virtually identical in high gear overdrive
 

Brandon-w

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Not quite

5/6 speed 3.06 X 4.56 = 13.95:1

8 speed 4.71 X 3.55 = 16.72:1

16.72/ 3.06 =5.46:1

Usually Brandons good,but somebody screwed up on the math on this one Lyle,you'd need closer to 5.46's to match what the 8 speed would give you with 3.55's in first,that's with-out factoring in your 12% taller tires which brings your effective 13.95 first gear down to roughly 12.28:1 in first gear.Cruise rpm isn't going to apply here as both trannies are virtually identical in high gear overdrive
I calculated factory gearing VS factory tires then aftermarket gearing to aftermarket for the closest final drive ratio to be closest to stock. Transmission was not a factor as we can't change the gears in it. As it sits with the tire/axle ratio it's almost as close to factory as you can get. I didn't bother figuring out the tranny ratios. Lol

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