How to Determine if You Have 'Lifter Chatter' or 'Exhaust Leak'

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Curt Gobbell

Senior Member
Joined
Sep 14, 2020
Posts
216
Reaction score
213
Location
Memphis TN Area
Ram Year
2014
Engine
HEMI 5.7L
Problem Statement

· You have engine chatter at startup and you need to determine if the chatter is either ‘Lifter Noise’ or an “Exhaust Manifold Leak’;
· Both noises sound very similar and both will quieten down after the engine warms up, which makes it difficult to diagnose which issue you have

  1. Lifter Noise
    1. Cause - lack of oil on the top side of your engine where the cam, lifters and pushrods meet
    2. Goes Away – when oil is pumped up to this area (generally 30-60 seconds after ignition)
  2. Exhaust manifold leak noise
    1. Cause - exhaust gases escaping where the head and exhaust manifold mate (generally a warped exhaust manifold surface)
    2. Goes Away – when the engine warms up enough to expand the exhaust manifold, thus shrinking the gap between the head and manifold

How do Determine Which Problem You Have?

Given the lifter noise is caused by a lack of oil and the exhaust leak noise is caused by a lack of heat, you will need to isolate the heat factor

Procedure
  1. Ensure your truck has been sitting at least 12 hours without running
    1. This ensures a) the engine is cold and b) oil has drain away from the lifters
  2. Open your hood and remove the fuel pump fuse (F70) from your fuse box
  3. Get inside your cab and try to start your truck for 30 seconds
    1. You will have to press the START button several times as the starter will disengage repeatedly (pre-ignition)
    2. This will crank the engine over, but without the fuel pump fuse it will not run (it will sputter once or twice) thus allowing oil to pump up to the lifters, but not creating heat to close the exhaust manifold gap. Hence isolating the heat factor
  4. After 30 seconds of cold-cranking, return under the hood and replace the fuel pump fuse F70 (see pic)
  5. Return to the cab of the truck and start the truck normally
    1. If you hear the same chatter as before, then you have an exhaust leak
      1. Because your exhaust manifold didn't got hot and close the gap
    2. If you do not hear the same chatter as before, then you have dry lifters
      1. Because the cold-cranking you did above oiled the lifters

Ram 1500 F70 fuse.jpg

Ram 1500 F70 fuse.jpg
 

Wild one

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 17, 2016
Posts
13,973
Reaction score
24,060
Ram Year
14 Sport
Engine
5.7
Problem Statement

· You have engine chatter at startup and you need to determine if the chatter is either ‘Lifter Noise’ or an “Exhaust Manifold Leak’;
· Both noises sound very similar and both will quieten down after the engine warms up, which makes it difficult to diagnose which issue you have

  1. Lifter Noise
    1. Cause - lack of oil on the top side of your engine where the cam, lifters and pushrods meet
    2. Goes Away – when oil is pumped up to this area (generally 30-60 seconds after ignition)
  2. Exhaust manifold leak noise
    1. Cause - exhaust gases escaping where the head and exhaust manifold mate (generally a warped exhaust manifold surface)
    2. Goes Away – when the engine warms up enough to expand the exhaust manifold, thus shrinking the gap between the head and manifold

How do Determine Which Problem You Have?

Given the lifter noise is caused by a lack of oil and the exhaust leak noise is caused by a lack of heat, you will need to isolate the heat factor

Procedure
  1. Ensure your truck has been sitting at least 12 hours without running
    1. This ensures a) the engine is cold and b) oil has drain away from the lifters
  2. Open your hood and remove the fuel pump fuse (F70) from your fuse box
  3. Get inside your cab and try to start your truck for 30 seconds
    1. You will have to press the START button several times as the starter will disengage repeatedly (pre-ignition)
    2. This will crank the engine over, but without the fuel pump fuse it will not run (it will sputter once or twice) thus allowing oil to pump up to the lifters, but not creating heat to close the exhaust manifold gap. Hence isolating the heat factor
  4. After 30 seconds of cold-cranking, return under the hood and replace the fuel pump fuse F70 (see pic)
  5. Return to the cab of the truck and start the truck normally
    1. If you hear the same chatter as before, then you have an exhaust leak
      1. Because your exhaust manifold didn't got hot and close the gap
    2. If you do not hear the same chatter as before, then you have dry lifters
      1. Because the cold-cranking you did above oiled the lifters

View attachment 240483

View attachment 240482

Couple more things to check before that,is to lean in and grab the heat shields on the manifolds,if they rattle or move around,towards the back you have broken manifold bolts.
Also you shouldn't need to pull the fuel pump fuse,just floor the gas pedal,that puts the truck into flood mode and it won't start
 

Tach_tech

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 1, 2014
Posts
3,307
Reaction score
3,556
Ram Year
2017
Engine
5.7L HEMI
Couple more things to check before that,is to lean in and grab the heat shields on the manifolds,if they rattle or move around,towards the back you have broken manifold bolts.
Also you shouldn't need to pull the fuel pump fuse,just floor the gas pedal,that puts the truck into flood mode and it won't start

That’s by far the easiest way, if the heat shields are loose it’s a broken manifold bolt.

Also depending on the year, removing the fuel pump fuse may set a CEL as well. So if you’re wanting to just crank it, just do as wild one said, use the clear flood mode.
 

Batt4Christ

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 28, 2013
Posts
227
Reaction score
100
Location
Clinton, Arkansas
Ram Year
2014
Engine
5.7 HEMI
Cold extended cranking 30 seconds of cranking?!) is bad for the starter and your battery.

also- the exhaust manifold leak is almost always from broken manifold studs, not warped manifold.
 
Top