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Nah man. i'm not into that type of lifts, have zero interest in bracket lifts. I have what i need to accomodate 35's and have fun with the truck everywhere.
Sounds good.
Correct. I was able to fit 37x12.5x17 KO2s as well under there. Keep your caster in the 5-5.2* range. Icon ucas or Zone ucas can get you there.
Thank you. That's just about 2.05 meters, so I guess if my truck had a 6" lift it should fit in the parking lot of the mall closest to me. The mall parking lot sign says max height is 2.2 meters.
Pictures ? Your rig sounds like a beautCheck Carli if you don’t want to thinker much. You get a full set of King 2.5 CO and 2.5 rear shocks which are one of the best shocks money can buy, tuned for the package. they say 2" front 3/4" rear. they give you rear springs, sway bar links, uca's etc.
If you like to build your own you can get the shocks valved and tuned from Accutune or Filthy Motorsports. For example
Acctune King 2.5's valved and tuned with Reservoirs and adjusters: $3198
Accutune King 2.5's with Res $2548
For UCA's i'll vouch for Icon Delta Joints, but any UCA's with uniballs and poly bushings will work.
If you're going for exploration and you'll have a bed full of gear , better to start with Icon 1.5 springs, if you're adding RTT's, steel bumpers, rock sliders, full spare, etc, Clayton 2.5 springs are your ticket to keep the rear up. Kings will work like a dream with either of those coils. Clayton are more specific to the JT world. 2.5" coils, triple rate, COR-1510251. I'm running 29" extended custom made King 2.5 rear shocks, literally same specs from the long travel rear kit from Dirt King. The Clayon springs are long enough to support such shocks, and still heavy duty enough to carry/ handle extra weight from whatever gear youll throw back there.
You'll need +1 rear sway bar links, which you can get from Core4x4 if you go with the Icon 1.5 coils
You'll need +2 rear sway bar links if you go with the Clayton springs.
in either case, you'll also want to replace your rear control arms and trackbar, Clayton have a set in opinion with one of the best control arms as they don't require any maintenance, they make them with Giro DDB bushings which are super flexy on both ends and the bushings are long lasting, arms are just damn pure beef, and those bushings will take factory torque 190-200ft/lbs both uppers and lowers, they are Clayton Overland + control arms, COR-1710120
Clayton Trackbar is COR-4510110, that one has an Enduro Currie joint in one side with giro ddb bushing on ther other. Before you ask everything you see Clayton is aftermarket parts for the 2020+ Jeep Gladiator JT. No they're not stock jeep Parts, they're made for overlanding so everything is HD stuff designed for aggressive offroad and to wishtand overslanding tasks, weight etc etc.
Finally you can also replace your factory rear sway bar with a Hellwig 7709. set it in the 3rd hole for max flex.
I'm telling you from experience what works, and works well for an overlanding/offroad rig that can go fast in the dirt with a mid travel setupmy truck has 100k miles, and i'm still on factory unmolested front LCA's, tie rods and cv axels, i beat the crap out of my truck and she keeps begging for more. Fits in most parking structures just fine. front is set at 2.75", rear is about 1.75", zero spacers, 500lbs extra in the bed from spare, steel bumper, gear etc, 160lbs extra right in the middle from rock sliders, 160lbs front bumper + winch, full spare in the back etc etc.
Have fun.
Check my built thread. It’s got every step I’ve taken with pictures, reviews etc.
