Removing 8HP70 TBV for 8 Speed Swap

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1SLwLS1

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So I am in the middle of replacing my 65RFE with the 8HP70 and need some help with the TBV.

One of the threads I read about an 8 speed swap showed that they removed the entire thermostatic housing and tapped the two connections on the side of the transmission for the cooler lines. I don't really want to do that and I found some -8AN ORB to -6AN fittings that replace the quick disconnect fittings on the thermostatic housing, which is what I will use to connect to my factory 65RFE cooler lines. As for the coolant/heat-source connections, I never had any plans to hook that up so I will simply cap those coolant hose connections on the thermostatic housing.

As for the TBV, I have been reading about people bypassing the thermostat and using the RevMax kit. I don't think I would need the block off plate since I don't have coolant lines hooked up, but for the TBV, can I simply remove the brass-fitting/springs/guide-pin and simply reinstall the factory plastic cap, o-ring, and snap-ring? Or do I need something like the RevMax brass fitting to put in there? I am not sure if they simply recommend replacing the factory plastic cap with the brass cap or if it is different in any way (other than material)? With only the cap, o-ring, and snap-ring installed, I am not sure that the fluid would flow much to the cooler as it would take the path of least resistance, which I would think is the heating circuit (even though there is no heat input, the circuit is still maintained), and minimal flow from the cooling circuit. I have no desire to have the ~180F operating temperature and simply want full time transmission cooler flow.
 

Wild one

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So I am in the middle of replacing my 65RFE with the 8HP70 and need some help with the TBV.

One of the threads I read about an 8 speed swap showed that they removed the entire thermostatic housing and tapped the two connections on the side of the transmission for the cooler lines. I don't really want to do that and I found some -8AN ORB to -6AN fittings that replace the quick disconnect fittings on the thermostatic housing, which is what I will use to connect to my factory 65RFE cooler lines. As for the coolant/heat-source connections, I never had any plans to hook that up so I will simply cap those coolant hose connections on the thermostatic housing.

As for the TBV, I have been reading about people bypassing the thermostat and using the RevMax kit. I don't think I would need the block off plate since I don't have coolant lines hooked up, but for the TBV, can I simply remove the brass-fitting/springs/guide-pin and simply reinstall the factory plastic cap, o-ring, and snap-ring? Or do I need something like the RevMax brass fitting to put in there? I am not sure if they simply recommend replacing the factory plastic cap with the brass cap or if it is different in any way (other than material)? With only the cap, o-ring, and snap-ring installed, I am not sure that the fluid would flow much to the cooler as it would take the path of least resistance, which I would think is the heating circuit (even though there is no heat input, the circuit is still maintained), and minimal flow from the cooling circuit. I have no desire to have the ~180F operating temperature and simply want full time transmission cooler flow.
Get ahold of Jesse Caulk for one of his bypass plugs.It's a better option then the Revmax kit.Do a search on here,i already have a thread going on the Rev Max kit.
 
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1SLwLS1

1SLwLS1

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I have read a couple 40+ page threads and didn't see those exact answers (or missed them). I read the one where Jesse engineered a replacement plug but what is the difference between his plug and removing the internals of the factory TBV?
 

Wild one

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I have read a couple 40+ page threads and didn't see those exact answers (or missed them). I read the one where Jesse engineered a replacement plug but what is the difference between his plug and removing the internals of the factory TBV?
If you're not going to run coolant to the heater assembly,you can remove the whole assembly,tap the 2 holes for plugs,and just remove the thermostat.If you found the thread i started on the Revmax kit,you'll see how Crazykid and i deleted the bulky aluminium heat exchanger.Start reading about here.

 
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1SLwLS1

1SLwLS1

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Thank you, but I do not have any interest in tapping the transmission.
 

Wild one

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Thank you, but I do not have any interest in tapping the transmission.
Better read the thread then.We didn't tap the transmission case,i wouldn't tap the case either,but you can easily tap the bypass assembly.It comes off the side of the transmission ,and is easily tapped.
 
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1SLwLS1

1SLwLS1

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Thank you, that answers the questions about the needing a block-off plate so the fluid is forced to go to the cooler.

I will have to sleep on tapping the thermostatic housing and plugging the heating circuit holes. What are the benefits of that over the RevMax kit, aside from $90 in savings?
 

Wild one

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Thank you, that answers the questions about the needing a block-off plate so the fluid is forced to go to the cooler.

I will have to sleep on tapping the thermostatic housing and plugging the heating circuit holes. What are the benefits of that over the RevMax kit, aside from $90 in savings?
You just nailed it,lol.Plus if you're not running coolant lines to the heat exchanger,getting it off the side of the transmission,cleans up the transmission,and gets rid of probably about 10lbs of aluminium that you don't need.
 

caulk04

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Like I said in my pm, I think a good option for your case is removing the heater and plugging the two holes. Just like Wild One mentioned.

My biggest drive for making my valve the way I did was to leave everything unmolested and almost totally undetectable. The revmax kit is easy to see if you're at all familiar with the system (warranty work...). Also I didn't want to fuss with the coolant lines that are present which obviously aren't on your truck.

To me, my part is the best way to approach trans temps on a truck that came with the 8spd. If you're swapping in a 1500 8spd, my part is still a really good option but equally good is the option of eliminating the heater altogether.
 
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1SLwLS1

1SLwLS1

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It's done, gutted the TBV, tapped the bypass holes, jb-welded over the top of the set screws. Thank you both for your help!

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