Preparing for cam swap, have an idea.

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Bandit517

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O-ya the car is about a second quicker then the truck now,even stone cold stock it was faster,lol.If you haven't ran into a 1320 Challenger heres a short little video on them,they're kind of known as the baby demon.They come through with a factory high stall convertor with differant shift mapping in the 8 speed,compared to normal Scatpacks.They'll eat a normal 6.4 Scatpack Challenger/Charger for breakfast ,lol.


Little article on the 1320's that's worth reading if you're in the market for a new Scatpack Challenger.

I've heard about those and always wondered what was special about them. My first thought was it was just an appearance package or something. Good to know they've got a little more pep in their step than a scat pack.
 

Wild one

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I've heard about those and always wondered what was special about them. My first thought was it was just an appearance package or something. Good to know they've got a little more pep in their step than a scat pack.
They're also the lightest V-8 Challenger you can buy.Ordered right you can get them down to between 4000-4100lbs.When the wifes fully optioned 1320 with every available option you can get on a Challenger,was stock it ran 11.80's at 3000ft DA,but the guys with the light weight 1320's and good DA are running in the 11.30/11.40 range.The record for a stock one stands at 11.27.Alot of dealers don't even know about the 1320's,go figure,lol.They use the same drag oriented adaptive suspension as the Demons ,so they sit a good inch higher then a normal Challenger to help with weight transfer.That extra inch is nice if you have a steep driveway,or are crossing over parking lot speed bumps,lol.My wifes old 2016 Challenger used to always hit the front spoiler leaving our driveway,while her 1320 has lots of clearance
 

savage_46

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can you do headers on a stand then drop it back in?
I doubt it with LTs. Only way I see it possible is if you take the entire front end off (radiator, rad support, condenser, grille) & put the engine in straight from the front. Not sure how tight it would be with shortys from the top.
 

Crooks1130

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I’ve done this both ways, sort of. When I did my initial cam swap, I pulled the radiator and A/C system then as others said, used my bumper for a step 976 times, getting in and out of the engine bay. But with those removed there is room for days in that engine bay unless you are just bigger built.

Honestly discharging the A/C and removing it is no biggie. You can rent all of the recharge equipment from just about any auto parts store for “free”.

When I did an engine swap I pulled radiator out, all accessories off, took intake off and then the heads off in the engine bay, with my headers still attached to the heads. Then pulled the block out, swapped everything over from one block to the other in the engine stand, dropped the block back in, and did everything else in reverse.

Now if I had a few extra set of hands around to guide and watch out while I lifted, I would have pulled the hood off and tried to pull the entire engine out in one go. Even working alone, you can literally have everything unbolted and unplugged to pull the entire engine out in a few hours.
 
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Bandit517

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I’ve don’t this both ways, sort of. When I did my initial cam swap, I pulled the radiator and A/C system then as others said, used my number for a step 976 times getting in and out of the engine bay. But with those removed there is room for days in that engine bay unless you are just bigger built.

Honestly discharging the A/C and removing it is no biggie. You can rent all of the recharge equipment from just about any auto parts store for “free”.

When I did an engine swap I pulled radiator out, all
The accessories off, took intake off and then the heads off in the engine bay, with my headers still attached. Then pulled the block out, swapped everything over from one block to the other in the engine stand, dropped the block back in, and did everything else in reverse.

Now if I had a few extra set of hands around to guide and watch out while I lifted, I would have pulled the hood off and tried to pull the entire engine out in one go. Even working alone, you can literally have everything unbolted and unplugged to pull the entire engine out in a few hours.
I've got a vacuum pump and manifold set for A/C systems. Just figuring if I can get away without the extra steps I wouldn't complain. Are you able to just unplug the harness from the PCM and leave it on the motor when you pull it or does the harness need stripped off the motor before pulling? I'm curious about header clearance on installation but if I've got to put the motor in, then drop the headers in that's not the end of the world. I considered pulling the fenders off to give more working space without climbing over them but I don't feel like realigning them afterwards. I will be pulling the hood for sure though. I've got a decent amount of lights in my garage, but removing the hood helps with shadows.
 

Crooks1130

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I've got a vacuum pump and manifold set for A/C systems. Just figuring if I can get away without the extra steps I wouldn't complain. Are you able to just unplug the harness from the PCM and leave it on the motor when you pull it or does the harness need stripped off the motor before pulling? I'm curious about header clearance on installation but if I've got to put the motor in, then drop the headers in that's not the end of the world. I considered pulling the fenders off to give more working space without climbing over them but I don't feel like realigning them afterwards. I will be pulling the hood for sure though. I've got a decent amount of lights in my garage, but removing the hood helps with shadows.
I’m honestly not sure about just unplugging from the PCM and pulling it. It runs all the way back to the transmission, and splices off into a few different directions in places. I’m sure it can be done but not sure if it’s actually worth it.

Unless there is another way to hook up to the engine safely, you will need to pull the intake to be able to bolt anything to it and pick it up. When doing that almost every plug to disconnect will be within arms reach. After the intake is off, all that’s left on top is injectors, coil packs, MDS/VVT solenoid harness, and alternator. In the front of the engine is water temp sensor, oil temp sensor, AC, and if you follow the wires down you will see the knock sensors and starter. (I’m inside just going off memory but I’m pretty sure that’s all of them). Unbolting the engine is just the headers/manifold, crossmember under the oil pan, starter, transmission dust cover thing (no clue what it’s called), bell housing, torque converter, and the 2 engine mount bolts. Support the transmission, loosen it from the cross member, and slide it back a little to make your life easier too.

On my fist cam swap I labeled EVERYTHING. When I unplugged something it had a piece of tape on both sides with a number system lol. But after the fact, I realized the harness is set up pretty well. When the engine is placed back in, all the wiring is just about it it’s place already, you just find the plug.

And yea, I’m 99% sure you will not pull
or install the engine with Long tubes installed. Even when attached to the head and installing the head onto the block in the engine bay, it has to be angled almost straight down to fish the long tubes in.
 

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The only thing I have heard is that the 1234-yf refrigerant is pretty pricey.

But, in terms of what you're already spending for your build, the cost is probably insignificant.

Even having an AC shop evacuate the refrigerant for you shouldn't be that much of a hit, either.

Vacuuming the system, replacing the dryer, and recharging shouldn't be a big deal, aside from the refrigerant cost.
 

Wild one

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The only thing I have heard is that the 1234-yf refrigerant is pretty pricey.

But, in terms of what you're already spending for your build, the cost is probably insignificant.

Even having an AC shop evacuate the refrigerant for you shouldn't be that much of a hit, either.

Vacuuming the system, replacing the dryer, and recharging shouldn't be a big deal, aside from the refrigerant cost.
Buying gold is cheaper then 1234-yf,lol:Big Laugh:
 

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I did the big NO-NO and replaced it with R134-a since my system was already evacuated and I vacuumed it out. Was a fraction of the cost at the time but still waiting for the compressor to lock up or explode, but so far it’s been a nice and cold A/C.
 
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Guess once it's in the garage and I dig into it I'll be flipping a coin. Originally I was leaning towards pulling the motor and doing it on the stand but might be more efficient to just do the work in the bay. Whats the deal with oil dipstick fitment? I've read that it fits with small tweaking, and also read that I'll need to order the Lokar flexible dipstick. But also saw a post about the Lokar one being too short and maybe getting a custom ordered one that was longer? One says it's 24 inches, the other doesn't say. So is the 24 the longer or shorter of the options?


 

Wild one

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Guess once it's in the garage and I dig into it I'll be flipping a coin. Originally I was leaning towards pulling the motor and doing it on the stand but might be more efficient to just do the work in the bay. Whats the deal with oil dipstick fitment? I've read that it fits with small tweaking, and also read that I'll need to order the Lokar flexible dipstick. But also saw a post about the Lokar one being too short and maybe getting a custom ordered one that was longer? One says it's 24 inches, the other doesn't say. So is the 24 the longer or shorter of the options?


The 24 is the longer off the shelf version,it'll reach over to the brake booster,which is where alot of guys bolt it to.As far as i know,i' the only one running a custom 31" Lokar dipstick,but it appears it's hard to get one these days.Mine reaches up to just about where the original dipstick is located.If i was doing it over again,i'd have it made 33" or 34" long instead of 31".S hitty pic,but you can see roughly where it sits.If you feed the dipstick back into the hole,before bolting the drivers side header on tight,you can usually get it back in place,then bolt the header up tight,and bend the dipstick tube to where it's not touching anything.
 

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savage_46

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If you ever think you'll pull the dipstick tube again, cut the lower mounting bolt down now ~1/4“. There is almost no room to get that bolt out & in with the mount in the way. I ended up tweaking my tube a bit to get it in with the headers. Took about an hour of trial & error. In the end, fits good & dipstick doesn't have any extra resistance. I cut down a factory manifold bolt to reuse the upper mounting tab.
 

SouthernBornRebel

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I pull them... not that bad, beats trying to work in confined space, also gives you the chance to go thru and inspect everything that you might miss in-frame.... to do work 2nd time stinks..........js
 
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hlcptr

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I just installed the Pacbrake oil filter relocation kit on my 2017 Ram 1500 5.7. Very well engineered and manufactured and not difficult to install. I'll appreciate the effort on my next oil change.
 

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I just installed the Pacbrake oil filter relocation kit on my 2017 Ram 1500 5.7. Very well engineered and manufactured and not difficult to install. I'll appreciate the effort on my next oil change.
Where did you secure the filter to? Did you end up putting more oil in to account for the lines?

Edit: just read the instructions and see that their replacement bracket attaches to the passenger side frame rail with the sway bar. Pretty nifty kit. I don't have the patience to not make a mess with the oem location in the winter lol. Just changed my oil and preemptively pulled into the grass and made my worst mess ever lol
 
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