Underspraying

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PoMansRam

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I didn't care for the Krown application I had done on my 2017 Ram 1500. The product looked non-existent in a matter of a week or two. Could it have been just a shoddy application, I don't know. I never went back.

I bought my own fluid film kit and later expanded it to include woolwax. Woolwax sticks around much longer on exposed surfaces.

There's many choices in this realm. If you don't mind rattle can applications, I'm told a product called Noxudol is the best of the best. It's pricey of course.
 

Doug Ram

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I have my vehicles Ziebart undercoated. I've had good luck with it. Initial treatment is now $400-700 depending on size and level of warranty you buy (# of years vs lifetime). The annual check up appointments are free. Since I keep my vehicles as along as possible I buy a lifetime warranty (transferable for a fee). At the annual appointment they respray anyplace that's been damaged or scrapped off, including the removal of any showing rust. Ziebart is a franchise operation, most offer other services and quality varies by location. I think the one I go to is a better one, they take pictures. All I know is that I've never had a car rust out with their treatment. The annual check up is an opportunity for them to get you to buy something else -- interior detailing and exterior clear coat protectant spray. Since my appointment with them is in the spring I have them detail the interior but I pass on the exorbitant priced protectant. I do my own exterior waxing.
 

LouM

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eco diesel old / now Hemi missing the eco's mileage
You do the WaxOYL application yourself or paid to have it done. I looked up my nearest applicator business for it, and they want $1200 to $1800 depending on the size of the vehicle for the service. They can get bent for that amount of money they want.

Amen to that. I don’t mind paying a fair price for services and goods, but that is steep!
No I have it done. It is steep but it wasn't that high.
I believe it was $600 for my wifes Jeep Compass and $800 for a pickup two years ago.
I did call a new place this year that quoted $1100 and I did tell him no thanks.
Then natuarlly I got ******* and didn't get my 19 done yet and salt and slop on the roads already,
damn.
So for this year I'll get it Woolwaxed, FluidFilmed or Krown coated in tha order for preference.
 

PoMansRam

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@Doug Ram, sorry if I've asked you this, but is your Ziebart job that black rubberized stuff that they respray every year? In my experience that stuff is an absolute nightmare. It encapsulates moisture and rust and makes the vehicle about impossible to work on underneath. Against my advice, my FIL bought that Ziebart package for his 2017 Nissan Frontier crew cab when he bought it a year old with 8K miles on it. It's basically turning out just about like this video from south main auto from some years ago: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nXvl9nt57Kg&ab_channel=SouthMainAutoRepairLLC
 

Hemi395

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The last time I had my truck in for an alignment a couple years ago I warned my mechanic about the FF all over the the place underneath. When I picked it up, he came out of the shop specifically to tell me how easy my truck was to align because everything came right apart and was well lubricated. He said it was like working on a brand new vehicle.

JMO but if I was a mechanic, I would rather get covered in FF/dirt than have to fight things rusted together.
 

PoMansRam

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that black stuff that hardens, also cracks & peels off like a bad paint job on a building

The stuff is a total nightmare. My FIL makes myself or my wife follow him every year to the ziebart shop so he can drop his Frontier off for it's "free" yearly re-spray. He's in his 70's and they try to up sell him on everything under the sun while the truck is there. Since they are basically loosing money on him, they just kind of haphazardly glop another layer of the shiny black goo all under his truck.
 

DanKnoch

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I used a wd40/30 weight mix on my old '02. Switched to fluid film with my new Ram in '15. Buddy with the local city service department recommended it. Spray it on myself with a kit from Amazon. Small wand and cans for doors and rockers and front fenders, big sprayer fed by air compressor for underneath and inside rear fenders. Smells about a week or two. Horrible on the hot exhaust but cooks off quick. Seems to stick despite rain and other elements. Spray it in the fall and still gooey in the summer. Not much dripping. Really impressed with the results, after 6 northeast Ohio winters, although mild, still looks like new.

Dan
 

quickster2

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I've posted this before. Well worth the investment to wash your undercarriage after the salt is off of the roads or before touching up your spray coatings. The 4 nozzle head can be purchased off of Amazon. I went to Lowes for the extensions to match my pressure washer. The pipe insulation was added so I don't scratch my sills.
 

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Robeffy

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I don't understand this either. You pay $70k for a truck, and then they rust out like crazy.

People don't believe me when I say this, but I have bought so many cars and trucks that have cost me $1000 a year for the cost of buying them. That does not include the cost of maintenance.

I used to buy only used, and tried to buy something that I could own for 10 years ( or more ) and pay less than $10,000 for.

My 95 Dodge cost me $8000 to buy, and $2000 for a safety, so, bingo, $10,000 for a truck that I have driven for 6 years. So far, no major costs involved, usual stuff like tires, mufflers, brake pads, tune up stuff. My Idle Air Control motor went... around $80 I think to replace it.

My 95 Ram is now at $10,000 / 6 years = $1600 a year ownership cost. This New Years, it will be $1428 a year for ownership cost.

No way will my 2018 CTD ever reach $1000 a year.. I bought it too new.

I picked up a Saturn Ion just after GM discontinued them... ha ha... great car. 2010, paid $4500, my son is still driving it today in Seattle WA... I gave it to him. I think I bought it in 2010, so, $4500 / 11 years... $409 a years in cost of ownership..
 

mtwofeathers

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Diesel 5.9
In my opinion, unless you live in a warm dry area away from salt air, road salt, etc., "under coating" your vehicle is worth it's weight in gold. Not only does it keep panels from rusting, but it keeps the electrical wires, connections, bolts and nuts - everything from corroding. Even if you don't live in an area where they use salt or a de-icing agent on roads, and you do any off roading at all, it will be a benefit. When you "play" in mud, it gets inside the panels between the inner and outer shiny painted side and continues to hold moisture unless everytime you go in mud, or on a wet dirt road, you spray everything out with a good stream of water. This means up inside the wheelwell and between the two panels on each boxside, opening the hood and spraying inside the fenders between the inner and outer panels, a little spray inside the doors through the door latch or the factory rubber plugs that cover the access holes for mirrors, etc., and in the tailgate latch on both sides.
Just for laughs, if you have never washed the mud out of your truck like this before, do it sometime and watch the crap that comes out of the fenders, boxsides, doors, etc.. Here in Atlantic Canada, they use tons of salt on the roads, and all this and/or the mud that accumulates just rots away at the metal. Even with the boxed frames now it lays inside frames and eats away, and we all know that the metal used today isn't what was used years ago. It is thinner now than ever, and in my opinion, not near the quality, and doesn't last long without proper care and maintenance. In this part of the continent, and anywhere with the same conditions we have, it is not uncommon at all to see a three or four year old vehicle - any make or model with rust holes starting over the front or rear wheels, bottom of doors, etc..
Any rust prevention application, such as Rust Check or Krown, will help your vehicle last a lot longer than without. Unless you are lucky enough to live a dry warm climate, or have a garage with a hoist that you can put your vehicle in the air and hose it out underneath quite frequently. On reply mentioned that some brands make a mess and drips for a long time. That is because usually they use two different products for their system: a heavier one for the underbody, frame, any exposed area prone to wash off from water on the roads, and u thin runny product for inside panels so it can "creep" into places that the thicker products can't get to.
So IMO, anything is absolutely better than nothing, and my only warning to anybody that is going to get it done - YOUR MECHANIC IS PROBABLY NOT GOING TO LIKE YOU ANYMORE-----THEY DON'T LIKE IT BECAUSE IT IS VERY MESSY.
Lol I have quite a few trucks, none have any type of film or undercoating. 2 get used off road quite a bit. Plenty of mud around, buy not even surface rust shows up. If your expecting rust, I would have to somehow go to a lower temp in the summer, mud takes maybe an hour at most to dry up underneath at 123degrees, not enough time for metal to rust.
 

Lordac

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My truck is 12 years old and in Ontario Canada. I had it Krownd every year since brand new for 10 years. It developed a hole in the front right quarter panel and the front bumper started rusting through. I called Krown for the warranty. They said the warranty is only valid if the application was done prior to I believe 6 months or a year of manufacturer date. Since the vehicles sit on the lot before you buy them and then how ever long it takes before you get the undercoating makes the warranty rather useless in most cases. Regardless Krown did not hold up at all. There is a youtube video by project farm I believe that tests all the popular undercoatings. They found Krown was one of the worst. Fluid film being I believe the best. I dont have a fluid film applicator where I live. But you can buy the film and applicator on Amazon. But I do not recommend Krown, it was a waste of money.
Greetings. I have a 2014 1500. I bought it with 3000 miles on it. The former owner had it garaged. The first thing I did was get a dozen cans of rubberized undercoating. I sprayed the insides of the rear bumper, cab mounts, removed the wheel well liners and sprayed all the underside of the bed (I have spray in Bedliner) and finished off with most of the frame. I live in MA where in the winters the roads are heavily salted. So far I have no issues. I've stopped using the truck because I'm trading it in as soon as the new 3500 Laramie diesel comes in. I will do the same with the new truck. Although I may use flex seal spray instead.
 

TomB 1269

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I just had WoolWax applied to my truck...... Concept - Great, Function - Great, application process - simple spray on
initial result - messy
I am still cleaning truck from over a week ago. Any oil spray will ahve an "over-spray" that has to be cleaned off. Some areas are easier then others to clean it off of.

I can say after about 2 weeks and 2 runs thru car wash with undercarriage spray it looks as if the "excess" is leveling off.

It will require removing tires and cleaning the back of the rims after the job is done.

Meguires Hot Shot and a brush will get it off.
 

Deluxhandyman

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Here in NJ I had had ziebart rust proofing done when the truck was new. It comes with a rust warranty. As long as you are inspected and touched up on an annual basis.
 

Bee1971

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How many companies pull the wheels off and all four plastic wheel well liners before spraying ?

I would bet none

That’s why my 2011 still looks brand new today - Spotless - Done three times myself with Fluid Film and LPS 3

And I live in WI and snowmobile mostly in the U.P. - Nothing but salt / salt brine / sand
 

spacex

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Had my truck undercoated with Waxoyl over the weekend. First impression is that I’m very impressed. Looks fantastic!

Wasn’t cheap (right at $1,000) but its lifetime touchups regardless of size for $50. Pics below… pretty noticeable difference.
 

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Jdemp

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I can’t say enough about fluid film.

I have been using it on my 06 cummins since new. It looks absolutely like new underneath (if you wipe of the grime that sticks to it). I spray it once a year.

Funny thing is that my wife drove a 14 F150 we bought new…. It was “undercoated” by the dealer (poor choice). That undercoating was coming off all underneath in only 4 years and 75,000 miles. It looked terrible and some spots on the frame had surface rust on it where the coating flaked. A tree fell on it in 18…long story.

So we got an 18 F250 that I have sprayed with FF also and it looks new underneath at 60,000 as of this weekend. I do only spray the undercarriage because the body is aluminum.

Fluid film just works…
 
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El_Lobo_Gris1500C

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I’m in Ontario Canada where they use road salt and brine, and I got my 21’ Classic in early March 2021 the day after it arrived on the lot at the dealer from the plant, took delivery of it on a Thursday evening and the next day I had the tires switched to Toyo Open Country AT3’s and then it went straight to the Krown shop up the street from my work to be undercoated. A guy I work with has a Tacoma that is probably 7-10 years old now and he gets it done at Krown annually, and the underneath etc. is still like new, easy to work on, nothing is rusted solid or seized. So I decided I’d try it also, it’s not crazy expensive, and I even got a free can of Krown spray that I used to go over spots that I wanted to make sure got coated, like inside the hitch receiver, suspension parts, bolts, running boards and anything that looked like it wasn’t coated as much as I’d like, and I plan on bringing it back each year to be recoated.

I only have one truck, got it brand new and I intend to keep it running well and looking great for as long as possible. Rams tend to rust out around the fenders especially, so I’ll also spray extra in there even after it’s done by Krown.

So far so good, coming up on 10 months now and no major rust spots, under the frame and suspension still looks great. I have new 14” wide kick back mud flaps coming to help with the crud being slung up the sides of the truck as I recently had a 4” lift put on the truck with 20x9 +1 wheels and 35” 12.50 Toyo tires so there’s a noticeable amount of snow/dirt/salt being flung up the sides and running boards as a result of the slightly more aggressive wheel poke out of the fenders, so the mats should help with that along with the Krown spraying.
 

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