Synthetic Oil

Oil of Choice

  • Castrol Syntec/Edge

    Votes: 235 8.5%
  • Royal Purple

    Votes: 327 11.8%
  • AMSOil

    Votes: 399 14.4%
  • Valvoline Synpower

    Votes: 160 5.8%
  • Mobil 1

    Votes: 994 35.8%
  • Other

    Votes: 661 23.8%

  • Total voters
    2,776

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Rod Knock

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AMSOIL does have an engine testing lab. If anyone can find RedLine's, please post a link.

 

tidefan1967

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Weird thing is on the blackstone thread pup has consistently posted some of the absolute best uoas. Especially the ones with 0w40 and 5w20 pup blend. For whatever reason that is it does a great job. Also have read people come here with ticking hemis that ran pup. I doubt pup caused it but it didnt prevent it
My 2015 Ram ate the cam/lifters on PUP 5W20. I might move up to a 5W30/0W40/5W40 with PUP but I wouldn’t ever trust it in a Hemi again. Why not give the Valvoline Extended Protection Synthetic a try. It has like 300 ppm of Moly in it. That’s what I’m currently running in my old 4.8 LS engine and it’s quiet not to mention that was the last thing I ran in my 2021 Ram before I sold it.
 

Rod Knock

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My 2015 Ram ate the cam/lifters on PUP 5W20. I might move up to a 5W30/0W40/5W40 with PUP but I wouldn’t ever trust it in a Hemi again. Why not give the Valvoline Extended Protection Synthetic a try. It has like 300 ppm of Moly in it. That’s what I’m currently running in my old 4.8 LS engine and it’s quiet not to mention that was the last thing I ran in my 2021 Ram before I sold it.

The high temperature that Hemis are set to run at is one of the things that starts a cascading failure. With a 180F thermostat installed and grille shutter delete I went back to Mobil 1 EP 5W-20, and installed a FRAM FS2 filter. She purrs like a kitten. What you see in the picture are typical temperatures for me. I can run cheap gas now as the computer backed down the ignition timing due to lower temperatures. The only reason I ran M1 0W-40 was to compensate for the stupid high temperatures. 210F oil temp was considered low, and at that I had 35psi oil pressure at idle with 0W-40. If you still run the stock thermostat and high temps then run a good ACEA A3/B4 EURO oil. I tried Red Line, but it wasn't for me. At mildly colder temperatures it gets thicker than Mobil 1 FS 5W-40 in my wife's Hyundai. Is PUP bad oil? It's a fuel economy oil full of friction reducers, so I doubt it was the cause. Do you know why Red Lime has so much Moly? So it can cope with the poor friction of some of its base oils. Especially when it gets cold, RedLine oil isn't very slick, but more like molasses. PUP 0W-40 is also a fuel economy oil like the rest of the lineup, but it has more moly to compensate for the higher viscosity and HTHS. A more viscous oil is less slick. They came up with PUP 0W-40 because they needed an oil that can stand up to the stupid high heat that a working truck motor would put out or an SRT vehicles, while maintaining the fuel savings and low SAPS characteristics of an ILSAC oil.

The bottom line is that any oil from a major brand will serve you well. Just try and keep those coolant and oil temperatures in check.

20211223_193122.jpg
 
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Travis8352

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My 2015 Ram ate the cam/lifters on PUP 5W20. I might move up to a 5W30/0W40/5W40 with PUP but I wouldn’t ever trust it in a Hemi again. Why not give the Valvoline Extended Protection Synthetic a try. It has like 300 ppm of Moly in it. That’s what I’m currently running in my old 4.8 LS engine and it’s quiet not to mention that was the last thing I ran in my 2021 Ram before I sold it.
Valvoline exrended protection is likely a very good oil in the hemi
 

Travis8352

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The high temperature that Hemis are set to run at is one of the things that starts a cascading failure. With a 180F thermostat installed and grille shutter delete I went back to Mobil 1 EP 5W-20, and installed a FRAM FS2 filter. She purrs like a kitten. What you see in the picture are typical temperatures for me. I can run cheap gas now as the computer backed down the ignition timing due to lower temperatures. The only reason I ran M1 0W-40 was to compensate for the stupid high temperatures. 210F oil temp was considered low, and at that I had 35psi oil pressure at idle with 0W-40. If you still run the stock thermostat and high temps then run a good ACEA A3/B4 EURO oil. I tried Red Line, but it wasn't for me. At mildly colder temperatures it gets thicker than Mobil 1 FS 5W-40 in my wife's Hyundai. Is PUP bad oil? It's a fuel economy oil full of friction reducers, so I doubt it was the cause. Do you know why Red Lime has so much Moly? So it can cope with the poor friction of some of its base oils. Especially when it gets cold, RedLine oil isn't very slick, but more like molasses. PUP 0W-40 is also a fuel economy oil like the rest of the lineup, but it has more moly to compensate for the higher viscosity and HTHS. A more viscous oil is less slick. They came up with PUP 0W-40 because they needed an oil that can stand up to the stupid high heat that a working truck motor would put out or an SRT vehicles, while maintaining the fuel savings and low SAPS characteristics of an ILSAC oil.

The bottom line is that any oil from a major brand will serve you well. Just try and keep those coolant and oil temperatures in check.

View attachment 480641
Thats what my idle pressure is at 210 with the schaeffers 5w20
 

Rod Knock

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Thats what my idle pressure is at 210 with the schaeffers 5w20

It's a volumetric oil pump that's electronically controlled. With RedLine 5W-30 it was ~46psi at that temperature. The computer is programmed to work with 5W-20 ~ 5w-30 (ILSAC), and so is the VVT. But it works just fine with other viscosities. 0W-40 seems to be the sweet spot.
 

ramffml

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The bottom line is that any oil from a major brand will serve you well. Just try and keep those coolant and oil temperatures in check.

Shazam ... you sure give me whiplash with your ever changing opinion, like wipers on a windshield.
 

Rod Knock

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Shazam ... you sure give me whiplash with your ever changing opinion, like wipers on a windshield.

I blame it on old age, senility, bad memory ....

[Edit the next day...]

Sorry, I had a bit of fun with my reply. I like to try new things, and my HEMI has some thermal management issues (no oil heater exchanger from the factory). I plan on installing one and a filter relocation kit and then we'll see what other lubes I try in my HEMI.

Merry Christmas @ramffml!!!
 
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crackerjack1957

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Shazam ... you sure give me whiplash with your ever changing opinion, like wipers on a windshield.
As painful as a tittie twister with a yo-yo
Up no down....down no up.......left no right .....right no left.......LoL
 

Rod Knock

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merry xmas to my buds on RF.
Merry Christmas to you and your loved ones as well, @Burla. Even though we disagree on specific technical aspects, I respect you and fondly remember many of our exchanges and learned a good deal from you. As for @Travis8352, @Hemi395, @Wild one, @HEMIMANN, and everyone else, I wish you and your loved ones a Merry Christmas. Since we're so close to 2022, I hope for a better "next year!"
 

Rod Knock

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@Travis8352 here is forum member @MOPAR78 who put 300K miles on his 2014 Ram 1500 using Mobil 1 EP 5W-20 and the big Mopar oil filter: https://www.ramforum.com/threads/2014-ram-rc-swb-1500-4x4-rebuild.170447/post-2458591

I'd say that's not too shabby. ;)

Also, for anyone wondering, PUP and PP 0W-20 and 5W-20 are missing the valvetrain wear test, covered under ACEA A5/B5. The only ones that have them are PUP and PP 5W-30, which are ACEA A5/B5 compliant. ACEA A1/B1 is now considered to be obsolete and does not include said test. Mobil 1 0W-20 and 5W-20 don't have it either. Castrol EDGE and EDGE EP 0W-20 and 5W-20 are ACEA C5 compliant, which does include a valvetrain wear test. Just in case anyone was curious.
 
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Travis8352

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@Travis8352 here is forum member @MOPAR78 who put 300K miles on his 2014 Ram 1500 using Mobil 1 EP 5W-20 and the big Mopar oil filter: https://www.ramforum.com/threads/2014-ram-rc-swb-1500-4x4-rebuild.170447/post-2458591

I'd say that's not too shabby. ;)

Also, for anyone wondering, PUP and PP 0W-20 and 5W-20 are missing the valvetrain wear test, covered under ACEA A5/B5. The only ones that have them are PUP and PP 5W-30, which are ACEA A5/B5 compliant. ACEA A1/B1 is now considered to be obsolete and does not include said test. Mobil 1 0W-20 and 5W-20 don't have it either. Castrol EDGE and EDGE EP 0W-20 and 5W-20 are ACEA C5 compliant, which does include a valvetrain wear test. Just in case anyone was curious.
Damn impressive!
 
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